Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

[seth]

@ Jiffycoil



Wow. Then it should run from a cell phone charger. They will put out 5.6 volts at up to 160 mA. If you can get those plasma sparks from a single AA battery using the cell phone charger that would be amazing.

My one seems to put out up to 300mA - unless my multimetre is lying to me. You should definitely be able to do the same thing from 1AA battery in a phone charger.

I wonder if having a room full of tesla coils is what helps Jiffy get that massive field

Whatever it is, well done! Find out and tell the rest of us the secret

[xee2]

@ Jiffycoil

exciter was running at 5 volts 29 ma

Wow. Then it should run from a cell phone charger. They will put out 5.6 volts at up to 160 mA. If you can get those plasma sparks from a single AA battery using the cell phone charger that would be amazing.

[seth]

Thanks Jonny, It would be great to have a battery swapper for this.

My last test with the continuous run and charge.I let it run for 48 hours before switching the batteries.

Run battery start= 1.35 end 1.21

Charge battery start 1.02 end 1.36

Swapped batteries around and after 15 hours run time.

Run battery=1.27 from 1.36

Charge battery= 1.31 from 1.21

All this was being done while lighting 39 led's
The led's were not at full brightness but they are still bright.

My next test will be with four 6v SLA batteries.

Wow!!!! 48 hours without swapping

Im testing your run and charge at the moment with 2 big CFLs (18 and 14W) as load. They only lasted about an hour and a half before i had to swap.

Run = 0.95 from 1.44

Charge = 1.2 from 0.97

Im using my IRF 630, and 270 ohm resistor.

Good luck with further run and charge experiments. Amazing videos jiffy - good luck with the fets when they come.

Have fun everyone!

[Jiffycoil]

@Jonnydavro
Thanks for the kind words. I have been blessed with my own work space and you cant imagine how thankful I am for it. The distance the AV plugged LED will light without me touching the lead is a little over three feet. The effects didn't seem any greater at higher voltage except for the amount of light load it could bare. I'll try some other experiments in the next room over today to see what the screw on the socket in there does. That room is my wifes studio and she gets a bit concerned when I bring my work near her cameras and other equipment. I would also like to say that in all my years of coiling these experiment have brought me the most joy. I know crazy huh?

@Xee2
Thank you for the explanation I knew it had something to do with capacitance yet I didn't know how to put it into words. I'll give your ideas a go and see what they yield. The exciter was running at 5 volts 29 ma . I have a few multi meters on order and will make sure they are in view in the videos as soon as they arrive. I blew the last meters A function out by forgetting to properly fuse a measurement I was taking. I'm also bitting the bit to try the FET's out. They should also be here soon.

[slayer007]

Thanks Jonny, It would be great to have a battery swapper for this.

My last test with the continuous run and charge.I let it run for 48 hours before switching the batteries.

Run battery start= 1.35 end 1.21

Charge battery start 1.02 end 1.36

Swapped batteries around and after 15 hours run time.

Run battery=1.27 from 1.36

Charge battery= 1.31 from 1.21

All this was being done while lighting 39 led's
The led's were not at full brightness but they are still bright.

My next test will be with four 6v SLA batteries.

[xee2]

@ Jiffycoil

Fantastic videos, thanks. What current was being used at 5 volts?

I think what you are seeing is an RF field around the transmitting coil. When you are holding the LED your body acts like a conductor connected to one lead of the LED and then when you touch the other lead to anything metal that becomes a capacitive plate connected to the other LED lead. Your body and the conductor capacitively couple to the RF field. If you just put a big piece of aluminium foil on each lead of the LED I suspect that the LED will light all around the transmitting coil without touching anything. But the LED will not light by itself because the leads are not large enough in area to make a big enough capacitive plate to collect enough energy to light the LED. Just a theory, but you might want to try it.

[jonnydavro]

Hi.I would just like to say thankyou and well done to all the new contributors here .
There have been so many recent developments here it is hard to keep up but rest assured there will be still many more things to be discovered.
@Slayer.Nice vids Very interesting that you found that you can charge a battery without the need for a diode.I think that the setup you show in your latest vids,coupled with a battery swapper would be a future consideration.I know the daftman has one and gadgetmall posted one over at "OU"which was a low power job but i could not figure out the diagram.If i can find it again,i will post it here.Jonny
@Seth.Really great find with the mosfet .I tried one,a BF245 which is an N-fet and it worked for lighting leds and neon and the current draw was 3 mA AT 4.5V but i will try and find some others to try and up the output but i think your really nice coil and top hat are also a big factor in the performance you are showing.Jonny
@Jiffycoil.WOW .Your video's have been amazing but your last two take the prize.The wireless effects you show are the best i have seen and all at 5v.Do you get the same effects or greater if you up the voltage or is your setup in harmony at 5v?
At what distance does your AV plug detector light.I would also try it on a wall outlet screw in your furthest room away from the exciter.
It would also be interesting to do some kind of load test by loading the slayer exciter from a distance and see if you get the crystal radio inigma of as many recievers as you want.
From what i can see from your walk around your great lab,you have lived and breathed coils for some time so we are fortunate to have you here and if Slayers exciter excites you after all the tesla coils you have experimented with, there must be something different here.Nice work.Jonny

[Jiffycoil]

I'm still working with my basic setup. I'm now working with lower voltage and finding some interesting things. The exciter at 5 volts is transmitting all around my shop. I had at first thought it was only being received by toroids and coils.

YouTube - Slayer Exciter @ 5 volts Wireless Wonders


It turns out it's being received by any bare metal object in my shop.

YouTube - Slayer Exciter What's going on?

[lamare]

Lamar... I don't believe I'm to far off with the last circuit I posted some days back

I've altered it a bit since, running 2 motors as well as LED's in combination and it doesn't seem to alter the motors torque or speed with anything I add to it, so far. The parasitic plate seems to keep everything in check. It also seems to have the ability to charge batteries sitting on the plate.

I've built 3 different versions of this so far and all of them work very well. The aluminum can be replaced by a capacitor of around 175pf but they also can be used as another output source.

If I may say so, the problem with your circuit is that is out of balance. That creates disturbances and it is these that give you enough power to drive a motor, but I'm sure you can get far and far more power doing it the way showed by the 3 inventors I analysed. The difference between your circuit and the way Gray did it is that he got real horsepower out of his circuit, enough to power a car, and the same thing goes for Meyer and Puharich, even though they didn't get it completely right, too. So, if you want to kick some ***, I'm afraid you will have to buy a few more transistors to build yourself a modulator according to Puharichs.

Update: I have added a new section to my article about how to control the resonance mode of the driving coils:
Article:Free Electric Energy in Theory and Practice - PESWiki

[dragon]

Hi all,

I dug up the schematics of Puharichs modulator:



As you can see, his oscillator is virtually the same as Slayers. He used this in his WFC, see his block diagram:



So, what he did is keep his load (WFC + coils) in resonance by feeding the signal over the "resonance sensing resistor" back into his modulator. This way, the load always maintains resonance. This principle can be used to drive two identical TF in series across an AV plug:

Article:Free Electric Energy in Theory and Practice - PESWiki

I hope to have some time the coming weeks to actually try this, but of course you are all free to try and beat me to it!

Lamar... I don't believe I'm to far off with the last circuit I posted some days back




I've altered it a bit since, running 2 motors as well as LED's in combination and it doesn't seem to alter the motors torque or speed with anything I add to it, so far. The parasitic plate seems to keep everything in check. It also seems to have the ability to charge batteries sitting on the plate.

I've built 3 different versions of this so far and all of them work very well. The aluminum can be replaced by a capacitor of around 175pf but they also can be used as another output source.
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[Jiffycoil]

@Xee2 and Seth
Great work. I'm waiting on FETs to replicate.

[xee2]

test using IRF530 FET and 220 ohm resistor

This is just to show that the Slayer exciter circuit will work using a FET. I am not able to get the circuit to run from just the AA battery. I hope I will be able to tune the circuit to get better performance as Seth did.








EDIT:

other FETs tested in this circuit:

IRF740 - does not work
IRF830 - works
IRF840 - does not work

[xee2]

@ Seth

Using a 220 ohm resistor with the FET instead of the 51K resistor does increase the brightness a bit and every bit helps. Thanks.

[seth]

Yes, that would be 220 ohms. Much different than what I have been using. Do you have a digital meter you can use to check it with? I will start trying lower resistance values. Thanks.

Thanks Xee2 - you always give great advice. I've had 2 multimetres for 3 years and i've only used the ohmetre function once on a flyback....it didnt occur to me to check the simple way

I now have 3 working resistors rated at 120, 270, and 330 ohms. Which means my wife also mixed up the colours....they're just too small!!!

At the moment im charging 1AA whilst running 1AA in an emergency charger....a little endurance test and slayer replication.

I recommend trying a big toroid on top - or sphere covered in aluminium foil. I just cant get the same performance without it, especially with the FETs.

Have you tried a toroid on top of L1? Or something similar.

[xee2]

Red red brown gold = 220 ohm resistor, right?

Yes, that would be 220 ohms. Much different than what I have been using. Do you have a digital meter you can use to check it with? I will start trying lower resistance values. Thanks.