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my take on the SSG motor

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  • #16
    Originally posted by citfta View Post
    You can not use a steel bicycle wheel for the SSG. I have built a couple of them in the last 2 years. The bicycle wheel must be something that will not be attracted to a magnet. Most successful SSG's use a stainless steel wheel, but you need to check first with a magnet to make sure it is a good quality stainless and not attracted to a magnet. A heavy plastic wheel or aluminum wheel will also work fine. Hope this helps, citfta.
    Thanks for the info.


    Originally posted by raff View Post
    so I just used the old coil and tried the plastic rotor.. guess what, same input current (60mA)... BUT output is around maybe 50-55mA(the heavy rotor was only around 40mA)... wow! so rotor being lighter DOES help...faster RPM too... I did not modify anything, just used a lighter rotor..
    I see. heavier part add drag. Does your motor have bearing / roler ball?

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    • #17
      EDIT3/UPDATE!
      ===========

      regarding the rewound coil I made, I reDID the feedback coil and wound it "the other way around" as reference to the winding direction of the main coil... well, it works NOW...finally!

      BUT I had to do a faster spin-up prior to starting it (main coil DCR=7ohms awg#30)... its MUCH faster(higher rpm)... consumes about 170mA INPUT and short circuit output of 100mA.... I think Its time to add a 1K pot(to the transistor base) now... so I could decrease current draw.. will do an update later on..



      the motor has no bearing at all... its just a simple plastic rotor with a metal axle... I use silicon grease for lubrication....

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      • #18
        ok while I was trying to balance my plastic rotor, I managed to make it UNbalanced... it just gotten worse... ! out of disgust, I played with my sony tapehead motor and added a 3rd coil(for feedback), the first coil will be used as main coil, and the other for slave... ok back to feedback.. im using awg #30; 100turns ; 13 ohms....

        well it works too... much FASTER than my first setup with the stock coils.... since I already have the 1K pot, I played with it a bit... at NO LOAD, I could adjust the input current from 300mA down to 160mA.. that is with NO LOAD and using 1 coil only, SLAVE coil has no circuit yet... when I LOAD the output with the 10A ammeter setting on DMM, I could get varying current while varying the pot...

        sometimes its like 220mA in -> 100mA out ... If I play with the pot, it could be 50mA in and 100mA out.. WOW!!!! note that is SHORT CIRCUIT current.... RPM is very slow(maybe 100RPM) but even if outputs shorted, its still turning...

        I have a question, what is over unity?

        I will post pics once I finish mounting the motor and add another circuit for the slave coil...

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        • #19
          whole motor disassembled


          4 poles, 2 set of coils (master/slave) and added another coil for feedback








          still in the works...

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          • #20
            Great work . that kind of output is the one I am after.

            Overunity is a false term to say that output power is greater than input power. It should be COP >1. Coefficient of Performance or something like that.

            I think grease would act more like glue at high rpm. Try cleaning the grease and use WD5.

            After another look at the construction, just realize that the coil is much larger the those small magnet. If all magnet are facing north, I wonder how the coil turn?

            Is there core in the coil?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by sucahyo View Post
              Great work . that kind of output is the one I am after.
              thanks! yeah me too

              Overunity is a false term to say that output power is greater than input power. It should be COP >1. Coefficient of Performance or something like that.

              I think grease would act more like glue at high rpm. Try cleaning the grease and use WD5.
              If THAT motor had been an engine, its mileage WOULD have reset the odometer many times already.. its from an old model(sony betamax SL-5000) I think tapehead motors dont need GREASE?not sure though.. but that motor has NO GREASE visible.. I never did put one either... the motor speeds UP only if there is no load(or no battery charging)... only does RPM go REALLY low if I short the outputs...

              After another look at the construction, just realize that the coil is much larger the those small magnet. If all magnet are facing north, I wonder how the coil turn?
              I think? all magnets are facing in one polarity only.. never checked for N/S.. just want it to SPIN

              Is there core in the coil?
              you won a cookie, sir! yeah it has a core...ferrite ring/tube to be exact... scan back my previous post, I have uploaded an image showing part of the core...

              will be using 2N3055 (x2) for these... master and slave...

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              • #22
                .

                Originally posted by raff View Post
                I think tapehead motors dont need GREASE?not sure though.. but that motor has NO GREASE visible.. I never did put one either... the motor speeds UP only if there is no load(or no battery charging)... only does RPM go REALLY low if I short the outputs...
                On 30000rpm small toy dc motor, liquid lubricant improve the speed. I think old sony tape must have grease on the motor.

                Originally posted by raff View Post
                will be using 2N3055 (x2) for these... master and slave...
                Try MJ2955 & 2N3055 too if you have one.

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                • #23
                  should I continue on this

                  ok.. im done making 1 main coil & trigger coil with it... using 2N3055 at the moment.. SSG circuit...(havent connected the slave yet,, still no circuit)

                  I have read from some PDF about JB saying "put a 1ohm LOAD and measure current/voltage on it, if its less than 1V then it cant charge"

                  I have done some measurements with it.. 12V input .. then I series an ammeter with the 1ohm load, I measure 160mA and 167mV accross resistor...

                  so... is this motor useless? since I cant get 1V out of it? I tried charging an alkaline with it... 2.76V (2 batteries in series) then clocked for 30 minutes, rose to about 3.6V... so it does charge...

                  hmmmmm

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                  • #24
                    1 ohm test

                    Hi raff,


                    You have the one ohm test backwards. John Bedini has said that if you get more than one volt across the one ohm resistor then you are not charging with radiant energy. Your measurements sound right on. I think you will be happy with the charging. As you have already seen it does work. citfta
                    Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.

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                    • #25
                      Hi Citfta,

                      the above measurements with 1ohm LOAD :
                      100mA 12V input from PS = 160mA 167mV output (base resistor set to 100ohms)

                      I tried wiring the 2 sets of coils IN SERIES.. 4 poles 4 windings, 2 sets... so I used my spare "slave coil"..just testing... lucky I had it wired(color coded) in-phase... the motor, WAS VERY EASY to start-up spin ...anyways, its just a test... still the same ABOVE conditions with 1 ohm LOAD..

                      I try get me some MJ2955(and the other parts too)... will try free runner... the single transistor ssg wont work with the fullbridge rect (plus large value cap) SENT BACK as its own power supply... hoping

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                      • #26
                        Self Runner

                        Hi Raff,

                        Here is a site that has information on how to build a self running SSG.

                        Directory:Bedini SG:Self-runneretails - PESWiki


                        I hope I did that right. I haven't tried putting a link in a post before. LOL

                        I was also wondering if you have tried adjusting your base pot to find the sweet spot. 100 ohms sounds a little low, but it may be fine for the system you have put together. And I want to add that your build is very nice looking. Great job!! citfta
                        Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          citfta,

                          thanks for the link...

                          meanwhile here are some pics of my motor NOW... those 2 unconnected wires is for the OTHER set of coil(for slave) regarding the aluminum baseplate, I dont mind the "Eddy current" , rotor magnet/case is about 10mm farther from base so I dont worry too much... those wires with alligator clips are for the charging...and YES I have a trimmer (1k) in series with 100ohms... still need another DMM if I have to monitor both input and output charging current

                          EDIT:
                          ====

                          Image:Increased Volts.JPG - PESWiki

                          so THAT is HOW it should have been.. now its all clear to me..

                          EDIT2:
                          =====

                          I was wondering, w/c circuit is better for a self-runner? the SSG or the 3 transistor version? (pnp-npn on main coil)
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by raff; 12-08-2009, 02:04 AM.

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                          • #28
                            If your circuit can output more than input you should already get self runner. Use the output to charge a capacitor and use the capacitor to charge the source battery. Mechanism maybe a bit complicated though.

                            Or try to use additional secondary that charge source battery directly.

                            Or try to charge the battery with the unused coil.

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