Mostly PM motor - Joe Flynn motor. My attempt to replicate

[Jetijs]

Thanks Ted.
Great to hear that from you since you are a great motor builder yourself. It means a lot to me.
Thanks.

[gotoluc]

Hi everyone,

I believe this maybe of interest. I have an update video of the Flynn Parallel path device since my first test was not well done as pointed out in this topic.

You will see the results are even better in this test 2 video then the previous one.

Link to video: YouTube - Flynn Parallel Path Device test 2

Luc

[theremart]

One nice thing about your design.

It appears the the coils are much easier to put on.

I like how you can change on and off time. I found with the simple Peter Linderman design I tried that was very key getting the timming just right. Optos sure do put reed switches to shame.

[zhorv324]

Nice job Jetijs, motor looks great. You notice the motor is generator ,and I say dam good one, because off thet characteristic I fired many mosfet. When motor work ,part time off the impulse motor works like generator.Sorry for my bad English bat I tray to describe motor behavior. Anyway great work

[Mark]

The coils look like there a son of a #%@#* to wind to me. You have to take the whole motor apart and wind them dirrectly onto the cage. Very time consuming. Looking forward to some testing, hope you will post a video. Wish I could build stuf that nice!

Mark

[Jetijs]

Thanks
I just made a double throw switch that flips the polarity on the output to see how the motor would turn if switched by hand manually. The stator design is made so that the rotor should rotate only in one direction. On every pulse the rotor turns itself a bit in the right direction till it aligns to the stator poles on that phase, but it does so only 3 times, then it just goes back and forth on every pulse. I guess that the rotor geometry is not exactly symmetrical. But this should not be a problem because even at lower speeds the rotor's inertia will take care of that. Will try to solder a driving circuit this evening
Thanks,
Jetijs

[Jetijs]

Hi all.
I finally got the motor running. I used my Lindemann rotary attraction motor circuit for it, but I will solder a new one for this motor. Here is a video:

YouTube - Joe Flynn motor.wmv

It is very loud, because I forget to balance the shaft and there is also a small air gap in between the magnets and stator core, this makes the magnets vibrate and make noise. But those are small issues. Anyway, the motor works fine. As the voltage is increased, so does also the RPM's, but the current consumption stays almost the same at any RPM's. You can see that when the rotor is loaded, there is almost no change in current consumption. I guess, the current consumption could be way less if the core square area would be bigger so that there is almost no resistance for the flux. Now there could be the core saturation issue. Also the circuit itself consumes about 100mA of current, 50mA for each optoswitch LED. The duty cycle now is about 90%, I think it could work better at smaller duty cycle. I have not tried to recover any energy yet, will try this soon. Anyway, the toque seems great, much bigger than in the attraction motor.
Enjoy the video.
Thanks,
Jetijs

[theremart]

Watching the video.

I have to agree the torque looks much greater.

Great build Jetijs!

Hi all.
I finally got the motor running. I used my Lindemann rotary attraction motor circuit for it, but I will solder a new one for this motor. Here is a video:

YouTube - Joe Flynn motor.wmv

It is very loud, because I forget to balance the shaft and there is also a small air gap in between the magnets and stator core, this makes the magnets vibrate and make noise. But those are small issues. Anyway, the motor works fine. As the voltage is increased, so does also the RPM's, but the current consumption stays almost the same at any RPM's. You can see that when the rotor is loaded, there is almost no change in current consumption. I guess, the current consumption could be way less if the core square area would be bigger so that there is almost no resistance for the flux. Now there could be the core saturation issue. Also the circuit itself consumes about 100mA of current, 50mA for each optoswitch LED. The duty cycle now is about 90%, I think it could work better at smaller duty cycle. I have not tried to recover any energy yet, will try this soon. Anyway, the toque seems great, much bigger than in the attraction motor.
Enjoy the video.
Thanks,
Jetijs

[mklimesh]

Nice Job

Nice job Jetijs

Mike Klimesh

[Jetijs]

Thanks
Yes, the torque is much bigger than on the attraction motors. I will play around with the current setup a bit and then disassemble the motor and balance the shaft, also I will put some strips around the magnets so that I can get them out easily without disassembling the motor. Will try to use smaller magnets and see how this affects the current consumption. This will be fun
Thanks,
Jetijs

[Guest]

5 Stars

What can I say, after following your work in the Electric Motor Secrets thread, I expected this. Excellent!!

Two questions:
1.Is this the circuit you have used but without recovery?

2.Did you measure the mechanical output?

Regards,
Nenad

[Jetijs]

Hi Nenad
Yes, that is the exact circuit I am using but without the recovery (all the blue lines). And no, I have not measured the mechanical output, I have no way of doing that at this time, but this will change soon
Thanks,
Jetijs

[rave154]

Great looking motor Jet !!

[zhorv324]

Nice video Jetijs.As i say before your motor work like mine, same behavior. Only thing you can do is use smaller magnets because off saturation. Yes another thing is use off full bridge controller. In that case you may use only one winding off coil

[Jetijs]

I have some news and some bad news.
The bad news are that I had a fire in my shop today. A refrigerator caught on fire. We modified it as a heat chamber to cure the resin in orgonites that we are making. There was thermostat that controlled a relay that in turn switched on and off a 1000w light bulb inside the refrigerator. This way the heat could be controlled at needed level. This worked just fine for months, but apparently the relay contacts burned down bit by bit and finally the contacts stuck together leaving the light on all the time. The temperatures climbed so high that plastic interior of the refrigerator started to melt and eventually caught on fire. No one was near at that time. Lucky that someone saw smoke coming from that room. When I opened the door, everything was pitch black because of the smoke, I could not see anything at all, I could just hear that something was burning very loud. I managed to open the bigger back door from outside and let the smoke out. Then with a help of a shovel I threw lots of snow on the fire and the fire was extinguished. I was all black from the dust from all the burned plastic. Also inhaled a fair share of that smoke. Here is what it looks like now:



Over all there is not much damage, the refrigerator is dead, the lights on the ceiling are dead and everything is covered with black dust now. It will be a long cleaning and repainting process and this will set me back for a few weeks. But hey, Tesla's lab was also burned down And it could be much worse if no one would be near.

On a brighter note, I played around with the motor some more and found out that if the timing is way off, the motor starts to behave as a usual motor consuming more power the more it is loaded. If I decrease the duty cycle, the power consumption goes down but so does also the RPM's. I also found the main cause for the noise. Turns out one of the bearings is loose in the bearing holder and can move around for a fraction of millimeter. This needs to be fixed.

Thanks,
Jetijs