Rodin Coil Tests and Replications

[rave154]

digitz,

that crop circle is a dead ringer for how the newer coil is wound !

btw its not the first crop circle that relates directly or almost directly to the rodin coil.

[rave154]

hi all,

here is a short video on what the number pattern & therefore winding pattern looks like on a 3D toroid.

Does anybody have any ideas on how to get the wires to stay in place as they 'slip' off the toroid and do not want to stay in the places following the coloured strips in the video.

double sided tape doesnt work too well, niether does hot glue.



YouTube - Rodin number map in Powell configuration detailing Nested Vortices

[Golden Mean]

hi all,

here is a short video on what the number pattern & therefore winding pattern looks like on a 3D toroid.

Does anybody have any ideas on how to get the wires to stay in place as they 'slip' off the toroid and do not want to stay in the places following the coloured strips in the video.

double sided tape doesnt work too well, niether does hot glue.



YouTube - Rodin number map in Powell configuration detailing Nested Vortices

Here's a how to on Youtube:
YouTube - How to build a rodin coil part 1

I used large push pins for my toroid/rodin coils and color coded them for ease of winding.

Hope this helps.
Ahimsa.

[rave154]

golden mean,

thanks for the help, but unfortunately that particular coil ISNT the brand of rodin coil that im attemping to build, i already have made two of those shown in the video.

the coils shown in the video are what i s'pose would be referred to as "standard" rodin coils. if you look closely you will see that the wire starts off at point-A on the equator..and quickly leaves the surface of the toroid to go through the middle before arriving on the equator at point-B.

in this new coil im attempting, the wire will never leave the surface of the toroid.....and also..the winding pattern is different, ie:- points A & B are in different places than shown in the video, but its the problem of how to get the wire to "stick" to the surface of the toroid.

thanks,

David. D

[Golden Mean]

golden mean,

thanks for the help, but unfortunately that particular coil ISNT the brand of rodin coil that im attemping to build, i already have made two of those shown in the video.

the coils shown in the video are what i s'pose would be referred to as "standard" rodin coils. if you look closely you will see that the wire starts off at point-A on the equator..and quickly leaves the surface of the toroid to go through the middle before arriving on the equator at point-B.

in this new coil im attempting, the wire will never leave the surface of the toroid.....and also..the winding pattern is different, ie:- points A & B are in different places than shown in the video, but its the problem of how to get the wire to "stick" to the surface of the toroid.

thanks,

David. D

Sorry David. I mis-understood what you were doing with the new coil.
Super-glue? Krazy-glue? Those would likely work but would be SLOOOWWW.

Good luck!
Ahimsa.

[IndianaBoys]

golden mean,

but its the problem of how to get the wire to "stick" to the surface of the toroid.

thanks,

David. D

Rave154,

Maybe one of these 3M Industrial Spray On Adhesives would help:

http://www.mpsupplies.com/3mIndustri...tsBrochure.pdf

Do like the track you are on!

Keep up the good work,

IndianaBoys

[rave154]

Hi all,

firstly, methinks michael2010 is gonna get banned pretty quickly lol

secondly, does anybody know a supplier of those larger solid foam Arts/Crafts donut forms.......preferably a UK supplier?

Ive searched but it seemed pretty hard to find one.

Thanks

David. D

[Golden Mean]

Hi all,

firstly, methinks michael2010 is gonna get banned pretty quickly lol

secondly, does anybody know a supplier of those larger solid foam Arts/Crafts donut forms.......preferably a UK supplier?

Ive searched but it seemed pretty hard to find one.

Thanks

David. D

I've found them at Michael's Crafts stores here in the U.S. Not sure what they have over in the U.K.
Good luck!

And I hope they do Ban michael2010. That's just obnoxious spam.

[rave154]

thanks for the ideas fella's..they gave me ideas which turned into other ideas & on & on.and eventually it coelesced into a plan.

im marking out the toroid in the 36-18 fashion...then....along the path that the wire has to go, i will place pins on whichever side of the line they need to be to suppport the wire.....i will then run the wire along the pins..gluing with small dabs of super glue...once i have completed one turn, i will remove the pins and i will be able to use that first wire both as a guide for the next wire..and also be able to glue the 2nd wire to the 3rd.....3rd to the 4th..and so on.

[rave154]

hi all,

finally marked out the toroid with 36 x 18 dots.......man that was tedioussssssssssssssssssss !

now the fun part........winding the wire

p.s.. trying to get in touch with a CNC machiner to make me a toroid with all the marks / lines already on it.......we shall see how it goes.

[geminitric]

back in the game...

Finally! Got some new equipment. Got a space set up for experiments. What I don't have much of is time... grrr!!

But, I've dug everything out and put it back and got up to where I last was, with better equipment this time. I've attached some shots of the current setup... uploading a youtube vid, but these shots cover whats in it. nothing much new in the circuit - trying out a FWBR on charge... tests will show difference. For now, it seems to 'work'.

I've attached a pic of the oscilloscope shot with the probe connected on collector and grounded on emitter.

right now it is running off 12 V, 0.54 A. The capacitor bank is standing at around 72V, while lighting up many strands of LED christmas lights. It works off a 9-volt battery, just a bit dimmer, but fun to see it off the grid.

So, the oscilloscope is set at 0.1 mS/div, 5.0 V/div. The signal repeats 3 times across the 10 divisions of the screen. I'm going to sit and figure out the calculations for what is going on here... it's nice to be back in the game.

[IndianaBoys]

p.s.. trying to get in touch with a CNC machiner to make me a toroid with all the marks / lines already on it.......we shall see how it goes.

rave154,

Great work you have going on there!

Can relate to how time consuming the set up can be not to mention the winding operation.

Your persistence and focus on the details will pay off.

Thought came to mind of using a 3D printer.

Print them out in ABS plastic.

Maybe you already have files that can be modified to be printed with a 3D
printer?

In my mind having files that can be customized will greatly advance the
ease of this new field.

Did a little research and am open to correcting any of the following or adding to it as this is a new area for me:

3D printers use files called STL:

STL (Standard Tessellation Language) is a file format used for 3D printing
and rapid prototyping. STL files describe the surface geometry of a
3-dimensional object without representation of color, surface texture,
etc.

STL - Standard Tessellation Language. STL is a special internationally
recognized file format that stores XYZ coordinate measurements and their
normals. Gives the added functionality beyond XYZ coordinates enabling
visualization of a part's "front" and "back." STL is the standard file
format for rapid prototyping,

Google Sketchup is free and outputs in STL
Google Sketchup - MakerBot Industries

Plugin for sketchup STL - CADspan :: 3D Printing Solutions

Blender also outputs in STL and is free:
blender.org - Home

3D printer company:
Stratasys, Inc.
3D Printers - Dimension Printing - 3D Printing, 3D Printer, uPrint, Rapid Prototyping

Not necessary to own a 3D printer as.
Here is a link to a 3D Printing Service Bureau Directory:
Rapid Prototyping and 3D Printing Service Bureau Directory

The files would make it easier to scale a doughnut type shape ( or a more
exact shape) as well as adding guides, grid lines, marks, etc to the
surface being printed (raised or indented).

Having searched for objects to wrap a Rodin coil in the past, this above
opens up multiple possibilities of dialing into exact ratios that I
believe will be in harmony.

Well that is my thought for advancing the work you are expressing at this
moment,

IndianaBoys

[rave154]

Gem, welcome back , have you checked jack schulzes channel for his latest 3 videos or so?

indiana boys,

thanks for that info, i didnt even realise there was such a thing as a 3D printer...checking it out now with my morning cuppa..

btw...i have 5 of the 12 windings completed now...gonna have another thrash at it this weekend to get some more done

[rave154]

wow indiana..this 3D printing technology is INCREDIBLE !!!! and JUST what i need....a sort of plastic version of CNC...but backwards...instead of chopping material off from a block....you lay down material a bit at a time....this looks perfect !!!! ( cost permitting )

im getting google sketchup.and throwing together a quick toroid...and sending it to one of the 3D places in england for a quote

[IndianaBoys]

rave154,

Thought you would like that.

The second part was after printing out a model and finding a toroid that produces well was to then use it as a master to cast from.

Polytek has some great products for this:

Rapid Prototyping

Rapid Prototyping
As the name implies, rapid prototyping is a method to create models or functional parts quickly from design to completion. Once a CAD drawing is made, and a model created by sterolithograghy or other 3-D mastering process, the master can be replicated by making a silicone rubber mold (with TinSil of PlatSil rubbers) and cast parts made with a variety of Polytek liquid plastics including Poly 15 Series, EasyFlo plastics as well as Poly-Optic systems for water clear parts.

IndianaBoys