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i have one suggestion for you, and this might seem like a little bit of a stupid one....but...
if you have a length of speaker wire handy( or any spare wire ), maybe 10-15 feet or so, could you wrap it through & around the rodin coil, so as to make like......two ear-links linked - the rodin being 1 link...and the speaker wire being the other link, if you know what i mean? with all of the rest of your circuit as-is. including your current trigger coil ( wether ferrite or not )...
on the speaker wire coil, just rig up a simple diode to rectify, to a cap, with a resistor as a load, and volt meter across the resistor.
again, this probbaly wont amount to anything......but. (ya never know)
1. Beginning is a demonstration of electrical induction from high-powered (42N) 1/2 inch diameter x 1 inch long magnets stacked in a configuration of 4 moved perpendicular to the opening of the coils. Meter is showing current flow induced at 0.5 milliamp setting. Coils are tested individually and in series.
2. Second demonstration shows spinning effect created by alternating current (60 watt bulb) @ 120 volts (~ 0.5 amps) on a diamagnetically magnetized 1/2 inch diameter x 1 inch long magnet.
First part is on a typical laminate countertop, second is on a piece of 1/8 inch plexiglass.
3. Third demonstration shows polarity creation when Rodin coil is subjected to direct current... 3.7 volts @ .35 amps on an axially magnetized 1/2 inch diameter x 1 inch long magnet.
4. I did test Rodin coil to Rodin coil transmission by stacking the green on the red and the red on the green with both DC and AC power to see if they would function as a transformer in any way. I got zilch zero results so I did not film and post. (FYI)
More tests to try...
1. spinning a magnet on a bearing instead of bouncing around
2. pulsed DC current to spin a magnet (potentiometer)
Many thanks and much gratitude goes out to all of you for your efforts.
Peace,
~ Golden Mean
If you're interested in healthy living, please check out my site on aquaponics... www.opensourceaquaponics.com
I also have various videos on the new paradigm unfolding on My YouTube Channel
"Giving with ANY expectation isn't giving... it's bartering."
At the moment, im in the middle of designing & wiring & writing the circiut & software for my PIC32MX micro controller to pulse my rodin coil, theres an idea i want to try. Im excited cos i just got the PIC to light an LED via software ! ( yeah yeah...simple i know, still nice when it works and nothing blows up )
Golden Mean's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wDlh_04bfU
Originally posted by wjbombo on youtube
....I did as you suggested and switched the leads without changing the transformer (wall wart) and polarity flipped as indicated. What is going on in the transformer that is allowing it to act in this manner?
After observing the effects on my own setup as you did on yours, I came to realize that forces/interactions between such coils and magnets can be explained by the right hand rule. Right-hand rule - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The fingers that are bent around the wire not only indicate the presence of the magnetic field but also indicate the polarity of this field: FROM magnetic North TO magnetic South,
This means that the fingertips will push away another north.
It is a bit of a brain teaser to apply the right hand rule to such a coil but it works, afaik.
using tyhe attached circuit, i am aiming to get 1.5V across the coil via the 150K Ohm reisitor to the bas eof the 3055 transistor...thats the voltage i get when i turn the PIC port to ON.....however....the voltage seems to climb slowly up to 1.5V, taking a couple of seconds and is not " instantaeous"....is this because of the high 150K Ohm resistor ....or something else?
How do i get an instantaneous voltage of 1.5V across the coil while using the 12V supply?
I should point out that my intention is to have 6 of these circuits, each controlled by a PIC port, all of them putting out diffeerent voltages across the coil, 1.5V, 3V, 6V etc ..
i know i could use a simple resistor based voltage-divider circuit to divide up the supply of 12V and supply this divded voltage to each transistor & coil, but this seems wasteful...is there another way?
using tyhe attached circuit, i am aiming to get 1.5V across the coil via the 150K Ohm reisitor to the bas eof the 3055 transistor...thats the voltage i get when i turn the PIC port to ON.....however....the voltage seems to climb slowly up to 1.5V, taking a couple of seconds and is not " instantaeous"....is this because of the high 150K Ohm resistor ....or something else?
How do i get an instantaneous voltage of 1.5V across the coil while using the 12V supply?
I should point out that my intention is to have 6 of these circuits, each controlled by a PIC port, all of them putting out diffeerent voltages across the coil, 1.5V, 3V, 6V etc ..
i know i could use a simple resistor based voltage-divider circuit to divide up the supply of 12V and supply this divded voltage to each transistor & coil, but this seems wasteful...is there another way?
Thanks for any help
David. D
Wasteful might be the way to go, least until the effect is shown. Can at least measures current after the voltage divider for efficiency measurements for now.
Looking forward to seeing the results to these experiments of yours David, you really intrigued me with what you'd found when we talked on skype the other day.
keep up the good work, and Thankyou again for the package, can't wait
Atoms move for free. It's all about resonance and phase. Make the circuit open and build a generator.
I think i might just go with the resistor voltage divider for now, till something better comes up, and a simple 330 ohm ressitor to the base of each of my 3055's..
im thinking maybe a set of eight 200 Ohm resistors, giving me 8 divisions of the 12V supply with a current flowing through the lot of 12 / (8*200) = .7.5mA.
using the circuit posted last time ( the PIC circuit using an opto and 3055), i programmed the PIC to turn on the port for 20 millseconds, then turn off the port for 20 millseconds.....and repeat..so i could observe the waveform across the 3055 with my scope...
sure enough, when i set the resistor that is on the base of the 3055 to a low value to allow the full 12V of the 12V supply.....on the scope i can see the 12V in the waveform instantly...
when i set the resistor on the base to a high enough value to bring the voltage across the 3055 down to 2V....on the scope i can see the amplitude of the waveform growing as time progresses....reaching a peak in about 2-3 seconds....
this isnt what i wanted, i wanted an instantaneous voltage(of my choice) appied across the load at any given time.
is there a way around this delay using a modification of the circuit im using, or a different way altogether,
p.s i have considered using a simple resistor-voltage divider, however it has a major downside in that the load current has to be a small fraction of the inout current, and since my load is a coil of only 1.8 ohms giving a current of around 6 amps...and thefore my inout current would be massive.
ive been playing, and..i found that instead of a 220 Ohm resistor connected to the emitter of the opto i had by mistake a 220 K Ohm... so...i changed it for the correct one.
secondly, i think the "delay" i was experiencing was due to the fact that i was using a 12v light bulb as my load, so the changing resistance of it was giving me the dealy i described, i just changed it for a 33ohm resistor and..instant waveform !
( at the risk of sounding cocky im going to quoet Robert Deniro in "Analyse This" when he starts analysing billy crystal when crystal is getting all flumoxed and anxious..and deniro says " hey....im gettin good at this ! " )
ive also found that by varying the resistor that is connected to the emitter of the opto ( the 220 ohm just described ) i can alter the output of the 3055.
so, which is the best or prper way to go..altering the resistor on the base of the 3055...or.....altering the resistor which in effect creates a little voltage divider that the base is connected to?
hows it looking so far? any obvious mistakes im making?
im using R3 (pot) to vary the voltage i require across the coil, however, ive noticed..
i was using a 10 Ohm resisotr in its place to set the pot to get the voltage required......but when i changed to the coil instead of getting the 12V ( which is what i was aiming for ) i was only getting like 1.7 volts across the coil.
is this due to the self inductance & CEMF in an inductor as opposed to a resistor?
or is it due to the fact that the winding of the rodin coil only has a resistance of 1.8 ohms?
@ Rave154 - I thought you'd be doing something like this?
Drew a partial schematic to get the idea across, you could have one opto and transistor pair for each required voltage. If you used potentiometers you could vary the voltages and tune to get the desired voltage steps.
however i think ihave cracked it, got the first one of 6 up and running putting out 1.5V exactly, just got to build identical 5 more and "tune" them to my required voltages and presto if it doesnt work out how id like, ill give your schematic a try.
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