Rodin Coil Tests and Replications

[stubbs]

Installed Eagle... I used spice and eagle back in 97-2000.
Its been a while, but its starting to come back to me.

Btw... I have a 10W 220V Bulb. (filiment) and a 18W Halogen running
together (That is 2 different coils 1 circuit). Input is <15VDC @ 1Amp.
If I am not mistaken 15W for 28W; is a fare exchange :-)

[rave154]

wow stubbs, cant WAIT to see this circuit ......im not looking forwards to winidng another rodin...but i will get uit done

btw, where did you get your large ferrite toroids from? { found the info in your post #18 }
:-)
David. D

[stubbs]

There is one issue I have with this circuit; mabey you can help.
First off it is a bear to tune. After it is tuned, I move away from
the coils, the power comes down. When I am near the circuit it
comes back. I believe I must push the phase of the second
coil, in relation of the first.

To do this I believe there need to be a RC circuit between the two FETT Gates???
I do not believe that I need to run a second opto. though it may be the easyest way. (NAND?????)
With the exception of tuning. Though it would give a wider spectum to play with???
Its been so long.... help

[stubbs]

wow stubbs, cant WAIT to see this circuit ......im not looking forwards to winidng another rodin...but i will get uit done

btw, where did you get your large ferrite toroids from? { found the info in your post #18 }
:-)
David. D

Hi Rave,

The large ferrite toroid, maybe the answer? or not?
Just a cheaper suggestion.... Use a 300W or better toroid transformer.
Strip the secondary coil off, leave the ESD wrap on the primary.

[rave154]

stubbs, its funny that you recomend using toroids from 300W + PS' cos just last week they cleared out a load of old PC stuff...and i was straight in there with a screw driver stripping out the PC's..got 4 in total... already have 1 troid from a 300W+ ..is about 1.5 inches maybe in diameter..

as for your circuit tunign etc, ill have to wait til i see your diagram/schematic..as im no genius with circuits for sure

anyways, weekend is here, going to have a sort out and a tidy...then strip down those PS's...and see whhat ive got, will let you know.

keep up the awesome work !!!

[stubbs]

im no genius either. But I believe the answer is in the phase timing of this circuit.
I need the basic circuit (dummy symbols) of how to push a phase,
and it will come back to memory.
Note: shoulder HD is full...

[stubbs]

Rave,

I believe???? 1.5" is a bit small.... But would be good for a joule theif....
which is #1 on my "next projects" list. What I was reffering to was a 300W
or better toroid "transformer". It is roughly 8" in dia. and cost is around $20 new.

[rave154]

OHHHHH....... i see what you mean stubbs...

i was looking in my local shop today for something like that./.unfortunately they do not stock them...so i will have to go else where...or...cast my own cores.

[rave154]

hope this doesnt end up as a double post...


stubbs.......could you try....as a replacement for your cfl & halogen...a simple 100 Ohm resistor ( high wattage )....and measure the voltage across it...with & without your body close to the circuit?

[geminitric]

@stubbs - I don't know enough about RC circuits to attempt to answer your question about phasing the current through the coils, though I understand what you're saying and believe you may be correct. I have done my best to replicate your setup with what I have on hand - a second, larger-gauge Rodin along with the initial one. Have 8 strands of LED christmas lights AND the 13w CFL lighting up, and still extra power I'm trying to grab. I, too, notice that when I have it operating at 'best' for current configuration that proximity to an earth ground (myself, the metal edge of my table, etc.) will show an increase in voltage on my meter - however there is no noticable impact on the brightness of the lights. Hoping to get some new video this weekend before I blow up my last transistor.

@rave - in response to the use of a 100ohm resistor to measure voltage, I tried that with a 10 watt wire-wound 100ohm, and it started smoking almost instantly. Gotta find a higher wattage, or something different.

@all - I'm looking for a way to get the power output looped back into the input. I'm sure this topic has been discussed many times over on this forum, so if anyone can provide a link to a decent thread or specific post I would be most appreciative. I have had small success with reversing 120v-24v transformer, with 100ohm 10w resistor in series to line going to transformer. Without the resistor, circuit looses resonance and things tend to fry. I've noticed, if I don't have something "using" the power produced (like CFL, caps, LED strands, etc.) then the transistor gets overloaded and dies. I have also noticed that short-circuiting the output (as in connecting a normal transformer) will sometimes kill resonance, sometimes not, but does not usually seem like a good idea. I also do not like the idea of having to build a whole little sub-circuit to switch charged batteries with drained ones, etc. but if someone has something simple...

OH and one more thing - I stuck the rotor back on to try it out. I haven't had the rotor in place since I first stumbled on this solid state circuit, but today in a couple tests it seemed that my light output was unaffected by the presence of a spinning rotor ... so, that brings the possibility of multiple pick-ups and whatnot now. Don't quote me on this yet though, I'm still fiddling and don't have good measuring equipment anyways so consider everything suspect until you try it yourself. I'm also aware of the fact that the output is a pulse and my $20 DMM is not exactly up to par with a $600 oscilloscope. And yeah, $600 is cheap...

[stubbs]

Hi Rave,

I found my 100W 100Ohm Resistor. I did as you asked on both sides
of the coil setup; 31.86VDC other side was 26.39VDC.

[rave154]

Thanks for digging that out for me/us stubbs...

by those numbers...based on DC... 30V approx over 100 Ohms =

0.3 Amps

power out = 0.3 x 30 = 9 watts...which is less than what you would measure based on your "lights load". are the lights playing tricks on us here?

stubbs, ethe end portion of the output of your circuit...ends in a capacitor right?.....and the resistor is across this ?

if thats the case, then im puzzled how the lights light so bright at the "apparent" high wattage..and yet the resistor shows only 9 watts out.

awaiting your circuit/schematic so i can have a go at replication.

Great work stubbs & all

Ahimsa

David. D

[stubbs]

Did not come to mind what you were geting at with the Resistors.
As I said before; it has been a long time since I have played around like this.
I am now in the process of re-tuning. I will then do a re-take on that mesurement.

[stubbs]

I cannot even begin to explain the outcome of this test.
The power to light the 20W CFL or the 15W bulb is comming from
somewhere????

YouTube - rodin secondary load test

I could have tuned the input for 15W, but
it was getting late. 26W for 35W (or 7.3W??? )

[rave154]

Stubbs,

Thanks a lot for doing that video, right now im puzzled by it.

You could hear how the circuit changed in tone as you connected the resistor.. perhaps indicating that there is a sweet-spot( in terms of freqency & cuty cycle) for the cfl/bulbs and a different sweetspot for the resistor....in fact...a different sweet spot for all loads perhaps?

If you had access to an opto-coupler, you could rig up up what ive got and use a PC sound-card signal generator and use its "sweep" function to scan through the freqencys...alas only up to 20KHz.

Early morning here, so im going to ponder over breakfast.

Thanks for alll your efforts