Take a 12v battery and an inverter hooked up as normal. Then I took a lamp cord cut from lamp ,trimmed ends, and split apart the wires. On each wire I placed a diode with arrow pointing away from inverter. Next I took 2 air conditioner capacitors and hooked one to each wire,not in paralell, but in series. The textbook calls them blocking capacitors. The terminals now coming off each cap that is not connected can be hooked to 110v lights, motor. They are extremly bright, and motors and fans run well but faster than normal. But best of all I can touch both wires and make connections wile the loads are running and not get shocked. This is much safer to. This sort of reminds me of tesla hairpin circuit but without the high voltage. There is no amps,but there is voltage. Can this be looped back to batt somehow? need replications And new advice. Bob
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Can someone explain this"SHOCKLESS ELECTRICITY"
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MAGENTO,
i was just about to reply with "that sounds an aweful lot like the tesla hairpin"... but you beat me to it.
keep playing with it, but BE CAREFUL touching those wires !!!!
btw, you dont have a spark gap in there, do you?
p.s could you sketch out the circuit, to make it a little simpler to understand,
Many thanks,
David. D
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Shockless electricity
Guys ,Thanks for your replies, Yes I do have a schematic , but dont know how to get it online , it is so simple to replicate. You could power your house, yet if a child stuck somthing in the light socket it would not get shocked.Or if someone made an accidental touch, no harm will come.I am new to this posting on forums, But dont know how to get my pictures posted. Bob
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Man what are you talking about.
If you touch isolated ac electricity preferably high frequency you wont get shocked.
If you touch the both wires you will but however i'm assuming you are not using high wattage inverter. Or probably a limited current one.
Never touch wires. Never touch wires. Never touch wires carring current.
In your house you usualy get shocked because of the ground. The ground makes part of the circuit for the energy transmission.
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Hi Bob!
Could you post your schematics by using the characters on the keyboard such as:
12v+ -> l Inverter l---l>l(diode)--{CAPACITOR}----To Positive of load
12v- -> l________l---l>l(diode)--{CAPACITOR}----To Negative of load
Have I understood you and is this your setup? Also, what value are you capacitors?
Thanks,
Dave
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Shockless electricity
webooox, Yes you got your schematic correct. once hooked up, before conecting load I short free ends of caps and get small spark then I proceed to connect up loads unharmed. But hook loads first and then turn on if you feel uncomfortable, I have done this many times myself and results are always the same,No shock. Caps are 30 mfd and other is 40 mfd 350v Torn from regular window air conditioners. Make sure they are good Before using. Sebosfato, I understand your warning and concern,The first time I done this was years ago with regular house wall socket, now I use 400 and 1800watt inverters . Results are the same.No shock . I found this in a verry old electronics book. But if you will rember all your books say capacitors will not pass current and this is what kills. But also the diodes changes the AC to pulsating DC . What I need help with is why is the lights so bright and motors run so fast. Also how to send some back to the battery. Thanks bob
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I agree with you all on this being very similar to a 'hairpin' circuit. The most obvious difference is there is no spark gap! A very quick glance at the circuit you see exactly why. The spark gap is meant to send the uni-directional impulse acting like a diode. These days we just have diodes to do this job and that's why this circuit works. Excellent work MH, if I had an inverter I'd try this setup because I have everything else needed.
-RauiScribd account; http://www.scribd.com/raui
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Oh one quick q in regard to the colour of the bulbs. What colour is the light emitting from the bulb, is it coming from the wire or is the gas within the bulb being ionized. I have a feeling it might be blue but at the same time this might not because the voltage given from the inverter would be significantly less than the ionization point of the gas.
-RauiScribd account; http://www.scribd.com/raui
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Originally posted by Raui View PostI agree with you all on this being very similar to a 'hairpin' circuit. The most obvious difference is there is no spark gap! A very quick glance at the circuit you see exactly why. The spark gap is meant to send the uni-directional impulse acting like a diode. These days we just have diodes to do this job and that's why this circuit works. Excellent work MH, if I had an inverter I'd try this setup because I have everything else needed.
-Raui
I'm just wondering what the difference is...Are the ravings of a lunatic signs of a genius?
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Originally posted by amigo View PostAlthough, isn't the spark gap in the hairpin circuit across the secondary side before the capacitors, instead of being on each of the poles leading up to the capacitors, as the diodes are in this experiment?
I'm just wondering what the difference is...
-RauiScribd account; http://www.scribd.com/raui
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Raui, It has been months since I done this ,but in a few minits I will set it up and will reply. All I remember is a 75 watt bulb was so bright it was hard to look at. I had a small ac induction motor / fan and it ran at very high speeds. I think the 60 cycle phase combined with the caps, is out of sync. OR, this series circuit is building the voltage up a lot higher, As the books says. But there is no amps on the load side you can handel the bare wires just fine. They are like dead wires,touch them to a bulb , radio ,tv, motor, and they work just fine. I am getting ready to try Very fine wire . If this works Then this is what Iv been searching for. Could be why the text books dont elaborate on this subject more than they do. Look at all the lives that could have been saved from electrocution. Any way im going back to lab to keep digging on this ,will keep you all informed. Bob
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