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About a year ago before coming to these forums I was studying the geometry of the
Peredev mag motor using my best guess based upon the few videos available on you tube as a starting point to attempt to draw a template. My best guess of the number of magnets around the circumference of his main rotor was between 28-33 as there was no way to know for sure by observation and still shots of the videos. So I then started drawing each of the five guesses between 28 magnets to 33 magnets and discovered only the 30 magnet position formed 30 perfect triangles, it was the only choice I believed worked and also gave the angle of the holes to be drilled into the large disk so that the torque pushed not towards the center but between the center and the outside of the rotor
I thought I would share this and a pic of the template that I came up with. This template would be laid out on a disk large enough so one could cut the clam shells out of same large disk, So first the large disk would be cut, then drilled through the thickness of the clam shell into the inner rotor from the edge of the disk, then the clam shells could be cut away from the inner rotor so all holes would line up perfectly and their respective angles. The gray lines depict the angle of the drill holes to make the unit rotate either counter clockwise or clockwise depending on which set of angles you decided to use. I don't know if the rotation direction should be changed as to where in the world you were using it. I have heard that in Australia that water drains in the opposite direction in its funnel than that action in the USA. I did not include in this drawing or template the cuts to the clam shell into their two separate components as seen in the video. These are simple cuts at 6 O'clock position straight up to the rotor and at the 12 O'clock position straight down to the rotor respectively. The two clam shell pieces then look like they were rounded at the top and bottom of each cut to allow them to pivot. Pivot point holes would be determined after this step was done so one could physically move them in a like manner as was seen in the video. How much one would round these edges would also become obvious after doing this as you would observe anywhere it might bind up. Also the claim shells would have less magnets in them in number than the main rotor because of the bottom and top cuts to separate the two pieces, Which I believe is also beneficial so the rotor does not create a place to lock up. Searl claimed in his videos he had to have at least one less magnet on the outside magnets to get his machine to work, or it would not spin. Now I know Searl has nothing to do with Perdev but I only mention it because his device was also all magnets, Howbeit different in construction yet I believe its one of the clues this Peredev design also uses. Let me make it clear that this is all based at this point on speculation and or presumption, neither of which means didly until one actually tries to duplicate the design. I always try to study a mater and its geometry for some time before deciding on the most likely design to approach, taking in consideration many drawings and using a process of elimination one from another. This method has always served me well in passed builds on various projects and rarely came up with something that did not work. This seems to save time and materials wasted by failed designs.
I would challenge anyone to look at the Peredev videos and you will see that the angles the magnets are drilled into the clam shell and rotor are very close to the geometry here if not the same, and as stated the number of magnets if you do a pause in the video you can count what you see that 30 magnet positions could very well be possible to what he used. Maybe someone on this forum has actually seen it in person and could confirm or dispute this for me, otherwise my guess is as good as anyone else. Again I base my best guess on the way the geometry came together using 30 magnets positions on the rotor.
Peredev mentioned magnet shielding this would be an area for experimentation to find out what works best "BEFORE" the holes are drilled. First you will need to pick out the size diameter of the magnets you will use and their lengths or the use of button type magnets stacked, and the thickness of rotor/clam shell non magnetic material. I am thinking even wood might work for a prototype here before one would invest in the more expensive (what looks like) a teflon based material used in the Peredev design. I know there is another name for this material as i have several pieces of it, it just slips my mind at the moment. Once one knows the diameter of the magnets plus shielding cylinder thickness together to determine final (tight fitting) hole diameter drill size you will be using. Also there needs to be determined a rotor side pin hole perpendicular to and through the magnet shield/holders to fasten them in a way so centrifugal forces do not force the magnets out of their place. This hole will be perpendicular to and through each magnet hole on clam shells and rotor alike...this position
of the drill holes for this procedure can best be determined during the build
Notice in the pick a right triangle above to the left of the largest circle. This was just an after thought I added so as to make a drill jig to hold and guild the drill in at the perfect angle to the outside of the circle. Many ways can be used to do this but a jig will be a must build for these holes. I imagined a special table top drilled and 30 holes drilled into the side of the disk so you could drill a hole and move it one position to the right or left peg it or bolt it through so it can not move then the next hole can be drilled. Sort of like a lathe indexing jig, only laying flat on a table top. Then drill jig also mounted to not move so each progressive position could be drilled perfectly in through the edge of the disk before the clam shells were cut from the larger disk as mentioned above.
To offset the middle rotor (of three like in the video) from the center claim shell all one would need to do is place all three center rotors together and set the offset you desired then drill the four center holes around the shaft opening through all three pieces. Or another plan might be to drill seven holes and only use 3 for the hub mounting plates...this way you could alter it by experimentation. I think an odd number should be used here as it offsets the angles to something out of phase between the rotor and claim shell so as to prevent lock up points. I choose seven for this as the angle of the great pyramid is 1/7th of a circle. On a 360 degree circle that angle is 51 degrees 51 minutes and 51 seconds. Good luck finding that without my modified 350 degree circle compass template which I will also make available here, or a simple seven segment circle template or both.
What I am proposing here is a starting point for a build, not a final draft for a prototype. Anyone desiring to take the leap would have to do your own engineering for size of rotor, material thicknesses, drill and magnet size, shaft size, etc etc etc.
If you do decide to try it please post any ideas you might have and results if any. I can not start this project until two other projects on the drawing board are completed which will get me off the grid this year. Then will have money to play with with the savings to explore the Perdev possibility here.
Good Day troops, and a better day yet to come....24
PS Sorry for the wordy post here, My communication skills need polishing.
as soon as I figure out how to post pics here will do so.
Peredev mag motor using my best guess based upon the few videos available on you tube as a starting point to attempt to draw a template. My best guess of the number of magnets around the circumference of his main rotor was between 28-33 as there was no way to know for sure by observation and still shots of the videos. So I then started drawing each of the five guesses between 28 magnets to 33 magnets and discovered only the 30 magnet position formed 30 perfect triangles, it was the only choice I believed worked and also gave the angle of the holes to be drilled into the large disk so that the torque pushed not towards the center but between the center and the outside of the rotor
I thought I would share this and a pic of the template that I came up with. This template would be laid out on a disk large enough so one could cut the clam shells out of same large disk, So first the large disk would be cut, then drilled through the thickness of the clam shell into the inner rotor from the edge of the disk, then the clam shells could be cut away from the inner rotor so all holes would line up perfectly and their respective angles. The gray lines depict the angle of the drill holes to make the unit rotate either counter clockwise or clockwise depending on which set of angles you decided to use. I don't know if the rotation direction should be changed as to where in the world you were using it. I have heard that in Australia that water drains in the opposite direction in its funnel than that action in the USA. I did not include in this drawing or template the cuts to the clam shell into their two separate components as seen in the video. These are simple cuts at 6 O'clock position straight up to the rotor and at the 12 O'clock position straight down to the rotor respectively. The two clam shell pieces then look like they were rounded at the top and bottom of each cut to allow them to pivot. Pivot point holes would be determined after this step was done so one could physically move them in a like manner as was seen in the video. How much one would round these edges would also become obvious after doing this as you would observe anywhere it might bind up. Also the claim shells would have less magnets in them in number than the main rotor because of the bottom and top cuts to separate the two pieces, Which I believe is also beneficial so the rotor does not create a place to lock up. Searl claimed in his videos he had to have at least one less magnet on the outside magnets to get his machine to work, or it would not spin. Now I know Searl has nothing to do with Perdev but I only mention it because his device was also all magnets, Howbeit different in construction yet I believe its one of the clues this Peredev design also uses. Let me make it clear that this is all based at this point on speculation and or presumption, neither of which means didly until one actually tries to duplicate the design. I always try to study a mater and its geometry for some time before deciding on the most likely design to approach, taking in consideration many drawings and using a process of elimination one from another. This method has always served me well in passed builds on various projects and rarely came up with something that did not work. This seems to save time and materials wasted by failed designs.
I would challenge anyone to look at the Peredev videos and you will see that the angles the magnets are drilled into the clam shell and rotor are very close to the geometry here if not the same, and as stated the number of magnets if you do a pause in the video you can count what you see that 30 magnet positions could very well be possible to what he used. Maybe someone on this forum has actually seen it in person and could confirm or dispute this for me, otherwise my guess is as good as anyone else. Again I base my best guess on the way the geometry came together using 30 magnets positions on the rotor.
Peredev mentioned magnet shielding this would be an area for experimentation to find out what works best "BEFORE" the holes are drilled. First you will need to pick out the size diameter of the magnets you will use and their lengths or the use of button type magnets stacked, and the thickness of rotor/clam shell non magnetic material. I am thinking even wood might work for a prototype here before one would invest in the more expensive (what looks like) a teflon based material used in the Peredev design. I know there is another name for this material as i have several pieces of it, it just slips my mind at the moment. Once one knows the diameter of the magnets plus shielding cylinder thickness together to determine final (tight fitting) hole diameter drill size you will be using. Also there needs to be determined a rotor side pin hole perpendicular to and through the magnet shield/holders to fasten them in a way so centrifugal forces do not force the magnets out of their place. This hole will be perpendicular to and through each magnet hole on clam shells and rotor alike...this position
of the drill holes for this procedure can best be determined during the build
Notice in the pick a right triangle above to the left of the largest circle. This was just an after thought I added so as to make a drill jig to hold and guild the drill in at the perfect angle to the outside of the circle. Many ways can be used to do this but a jig will be a must build for these holes. I imagined a special table top drilled and 30 holes drilled into the side of the disk so you could drill a hole and move it one position to the right or left peg it or bolt it through so it can not move then the next hole can be drilled. Sort of like a lathe indexing jig, only laying flat on a table top. Then drill jig also mounted to not move so each progressive position could be drilled perfectly in through the edge of the disk before the clam shells were cut from the larger disk as mentioned above.
To offset the middle rotor (of three like in the video) from the center claim shell all one would need to do is place all three center rotors together and set the offset you desired then drill the four center holes around the shaft opening through all three pieces. Or another plan might be to drill seven holes and only use 3 for the hub mounting plates...this way you could alter it by experimentation. I think an odd number should be used here as it offsets the angles to something out of phase between the rotor and claim shell so as to prevent lock up points. I choose seven for this as the angle of the great pyramid is 1/7th of a circle. On a 360 degree circle that angle is 51 degrees 51 minutes and 51 seconds. Good luck finding that without my modified 350 degree circle compass template which I will also make available here, or a simple seven segment circle template or both.
What I am proposing here is a starting point for a build, not a final draft for a prototype. Anyone desiring to take the leap would have to do your own engineering for size of rotor, material thicknesses, drill and magnet size, shaft size, etc etc etc.
If you do decide to try it please post any ideas you might have and results if any. I can not start this project until two other projects on the drawing board are completed which will get me off the grid this year. Then will have money to play with with the savings to explore the Perdev possibility here.
Good Day troops, and a better day yet to come....24
PS Sorry for the wordy post here, My communication skills need polishing.
as soon as I figure out how to post pics here will do so.
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