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Francisco PACHECO Hydrogen Generator

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    Hello All

    In constructing the stainless steel tank, the plates will distort during the welding process. The amount of distortion will vary from tank to tank. Do you see any problem with intentionally making the stainless steel tank outside dimensions 1/8 of an inch on all sides smaller than the inside dimensions of the Plexiglas box and cover. Silicone would be used to seal the space between the two.

    Reaper, I am confused about which rods have to be nonconductive. What rods are you referring to?

    In the overall design, what are the thoughts concerning a single container consisting of four stainless steel tanks or have four separate units with connecting pipes for the filtration system? I personally believe that the individual tank concept would be easier for scalability purposes.

    Does anyone have an alternate website for the non-conductive permeable separator? The one posted by Harvey did not mention a vendor.

    Reaper, does the ¼ to 3/8 inch spacing apply to the sides and bottom of the Mg and AL plates to the stainless steel tank as well?

    Regards,
    Bill

    Comment


    • Any garden supply place will sell polypropylene fabric for weed controller or drainage cloth.

      Or just type it in somebody will come up.

      Its the very same thing except the one Harvey links to is used for fabric in clothing so its probably alot softer.

      Matt

      Comment


      • hi bill,remember this is also a saltwater battery,each cell is meant to develop 1.5 volts 4cells = 6volts i don't know how it would work as one cell but would be fun to find out. when you hang the plates inside the cell the rod that runs from end to end fiberglass rod mitt shrink tubing over it does ok. plate spacing of 1/4-3/8 from each plate and end of tank sides need at least 3/8 so you can put a 1/2 nylon strip with grooves cut in it to keep the plates from knocking together and off the side of the tank. 1" up off the bottom works for surculation as wel as giving room for the sep. to go around.you want a least 3" above the plates for water slopping around.

        get and old triple sink from a restraunt for cheap stainless to weld with min. warpingtake the base plate and some 1/4"x3"steel strap and clamp it down then tack it on end, middle, end that way as it warps you can keep it on line. keep going remember my motto" ya don't know till ya try". all the best, reaper. oh the best price on sheet mg is source one metal out of sterling hgts,mi
        Last edited by reaper; 07-04-2010, 12:50 AM.

        Comment


        • bill by the way remember that the patent was in 92? what kind of permeable separator was around back then?

          Comment


          • Hi Reaper,

            Where do you get sheet Mg from? Do you think they send international?

            Cheers,

            Steve
            You can view my vids here

            http://www.youtube.com/SJohnM81

            Comment


            • Originally posted by dambit View Post
              Hi Reaper,

              Where do you get sheet Mg from? Do you think they send international?

              Cheers,

              Steve
              sorry i gave the wrong name.it's "source one metal.com" out of sterling hgts mich. you would have to ask them about shipping. they are very prompt at shipping orders. go for it. hope they can help you.

              Comment


              • Hello Everyone,

                I thought I would post a few CAD images that I have created using Alibre CAD. All of the plates (Al, Mg, and SS) are .125 inch thick. The spacing between the plates is 3/8 of an inch. The space from the bottom of the stainless tank to the plates is 1.00 inch. The spacing on all sides is 2.00 inches. The inlet and outlet ports are 1.00 tubing with a wall thickness of .062 inches. I plan on using a filter/pump system for each tank. My thoughts are that this can be a modular design and the number of tanks will be dictated by the horse power required and the specific application.

                As always, please send me your comments. On reflection, my initial “design” was terrible. Actually it was YUK or worse

                Regards,
                Bill
                tank_sub_assembly_3d.jpg

                tank_sub_assembly_front.jpg

                tank_sub_assembly_section.jpg

                tank_sub_assembly_side.jpg

                tank_sub_assembly_top.jpg

                tank_sub_assembly_view1.jpg

                Comment


                • looks good bill. much success.reaper

                  Comment


                  • Hello Everyone,
                    I am going to revise my CAD model. I found some stainless steel pans I can purchase from a restaurant supply store. They ranged in price from $14.95 to $24.95 for each pan.

                    Regards,
                    Bill

                    Comment


                    • hi bill, how is it going? if all else fails look at the rosetta stone in pacheco's last patent. reaper

                      Comment


                      • I have just purchased a stainless steel pan from a commercial restaurant supply store. It is only 6 inches deep, so I will have to adjust my plate width and height dimensions accordingly. I will construct one cell and add the other three when the process has been proven.

                        Regards,
                        Bill

                        Comment


                        • hi bill, if you look at the patent you will see the plastic tank at the top which has two al plates in it. that is the stone. your plate ratio is 3to1. if you have a cad program try 6" and 8" or 6x18,8x24 for plate size and scale the rest of the tank off that. at least scale your tank to the same scale. size and surface area make a big diff. don't forget the two al plates or it will go base ph on you.reaper

                          Comment


                          • Info

                            Hey all,
                            I've been following this thread and if anyone is interested in some more info I've found, take a look.
                            • The salt water is there to reduce the resistance in the water, increasing efficiency. A better substance to use for this would be Lye(NaOH), sodium-hydroxide, or KOH, potassium-hydroxide. Both of these chemicals are VERY dangerous and should be treated very carefuly. The best proportions for the electrolyte-water ratio is about 20% electrolyte to 80% water by weight.
                            • If you are powering the cells by a car battery, then 6 or 7 COMPLETELY SEPARATE(or water-tight) cells would be most efficient.
                            • The magnesium crap that comes off should only be temporary, the magnesium needs to form a catalyst layer over itself. using the cell over a period of time will eventually create this layer. If not, then I suggest switching to stainless steel
                            • If the cells are working right, then they should produce Hydroxide(HHO), or Brown's gas for short. This is HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE- about a cupful lit up can permanently damage your hearing.

                            I really hope this helps, so good luck.

                            Comment


                            • giggle

                              jake you really need to read up on what a pacheco generator is,before you offer advice. then we can talk. you tube for boyd868b and check his pacheco hydrogen generator vids. reaper
                              Last edited by reaper; 02-03-2011, 02:40 AM.

                              Comment


                              • Ordered a 4x8 sheet of magnesium ($1100) and aluminum (quite a bit cheaper) and stainless. Constructed unit similar to the fellow on you tube.

                                Made plates 10 inch by 10 inch. Max voltage was was 1.2 and very little hydrogen production.

                                Put large balloon on output and took almost an hour to make what I would guess to be a liter of hydrogen.

                                Put filter and circulation pump on unit, but not enough current to run pump as claimed in patent. Output remained at about 1 liter per hour for around a day and generated heat.

                                Plates totally destroyed themselves in about 24 hours. Swollen to twice their original size, but flaked off when touched.

                                Conclusion.... doesn't work. Patent issued on device really means nothing.

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