corona maker from insulated & bare wire

[sucahyo]

Here is my version of corona maker. Made from thin bare wire wound to insulated wire. The induction will force corona to come out the thin wire. Since the one that insulated do not exposed to air, only corona made by thin wire produce ozone. And if your driver circuit produce DC dominant HV you can make it produce mostly negative ino by connecting the coil the correct way.

Use neon bulb to check current direction. only leg with negative current in the neon will lit.



one way to wound it:


the corona, not very clear unfortunately, my webcam can not capture it well. Run at about 600mA at 10V.



Edit:
Now I use insulated wire as positive wound over a bare copper pipe as negative.



Slight modification to the circuit:

[vrand]

Here is my version of corona maker. Made from thin bare wire wound to insulated wire. The induction will force corona to come out the thin wire. Since the one that insulated do not exposed to air, only corona made by thin wire produce ozone. And if your driver circuit produce DC dominant HV you can make it produce mostly negative ino by connecting the coil the correct way.

Use neon bulb to check current direction. only leg with negative current in the neon will lit.



one way to wound it:


the corona, not very clear unfortunately, my webcam can not capture it well. Run at about 600mA at 10V.



Edit:
Now I use insulated wire as positive wound over a bare copper pipe as negative. If you use other circuit, you can use what ever polarity.

Interesting design sucahyo, thank you for post it

I would enjoy seeing how it works with an engine.

What do you estimate is your output voltage and frequency? Is the output AC or rectified to DC?

Thanks, Mike

[sucahyo]

Interesting design sucahyo, thank you for post it

I would enjoy seeing how it works with an engine.

What do you estimate is your output voltage and frequency? Is the output AC or rectified to DC?

Thanks, Mike

Unfortunately I do not have plan for mileage testing, too many obstacle.

The output is mostly DC. During one wire neon in series lit both, with spark neon in series glow almost one side, with arc neon in series glow only one side, with dead bulb as spark gap neon in paralel glow only one side, with corona neon in parallel glow only one side.

BTW, I post the current implementation on the first post.

[sucahyo]

I forgot to mention, I only test a couple of time on cars in idle condition. Adding ionized air noticeably smooth out the car idle. My car is old, it make many cluncking noise on idle. But after I apply ionized air via rubber hose, the engine idle smoothly and no cluncking noise anymore.

No road test because I still don't solve the leaking insulation problem. When the insulation leaks, the leak is sparking and terminate corona.

[HairBear]

Use mirror finish stainless steel plates just like an electrolysis cell. Make sure you have the plates just far enough to stop arcing. A little buzzing is normal operation. The real trick is to make the gases positively charged by taking electrons away from the atoms. Whenever the mass of a combustible gas atom is decreased, thermal energy is increased during combustion. Thank you for your test data!

[sucahyo]

Use mirror finish stainless steel plates just like an electrolysis cell. Make sure you have the plates just far enough to stop arcing. A little buzzing is normal operation.

There is problem with that implementation. I tried that implementation before I use uninsulated over insulated wire.

1. Air do not have constant insulation property. Smoky / dirty air have different insulation property from clean air. Moving air have different insulation property from static air.

When I use air gap. I have to change potentiometer value because the air condition change or the battery voltage reduce. When the room is filled with cigarrete smokes I set the output high, when the smoke clear out the electrode spark so I have to adjust the potentiometer (or is it the opposite?, sorry, I already forgot). When the battery depleted, I have to adjust potentiometer again. A tiring job.

With insulation method I don't have to change potentiometer. I change potentiometer to change the amount of corona vs battery life.

I don't think you can use air gap method on a car without some sophisticated / complicated system. In a car, changing rpm would produce different air flow, it may be possible that an air gap that produce corona at high rpm will spark at low rpm that disable the corona. Or good corona at low rpm but nothing at high rpm because air impedance become too high. The air condition change too, humidity, air vapour, dirt varies a lot from places to places.

I think using air gap is impractical for car implementation.


2. Active surface is small. It is very hard to create more than one corona point with air gap. When you use many corona point it is very hard to set all to produce the same amount of corona. It is harder than very hard to make all flat / cylinder area surface to produce corona. It will be likely that you will end up one edge creating spark and terminate all corona. I think the precision need to be very very high adn the surface have to be very even without any sharp edge.

With insulation method, the electrode produce corona on a much larger area easily.

The real trick is to make the gases positively charged by taking electrons away from the atoms. Whenever the mass of a combustible gas atom is decreased, thermal energy is increased during combustion. Thank you for your test data!

This corona method is different from high voltage without current resonant method. Corona require high voltage and some current. The amount of converted atoms is in proportion with the amount of corona.

While resonant method do not need current because it work in resonant frequency of atoms. The amount of converted atoms is in proportion with the accuracy of device frequency to resonant frequency.

However, I got the feeling that replicator end up consume more current using resonant method because it is harder to get resonant on varying environment. I never read power consumption anywhere but from the design posted with many component, it should be high.

I use around 12 watt at most for my corona method when I test it on my car, should be lower if properly tuned. Car should have no problem powering just this level of power. Should be interesting to compare this with hydroxy booster.

[HairBear]

Good points! If you are ever to progress with this part of the project, how will you address the issues with the degradation of insulation? What's interesting most of all is your test results are reminiscent of the characteristics presented by the use of water booster cells. I wonder if anything like this has already been invented and sold on the market?

Cheers!

[sucahyo]

Good points! If you are ever to progress with this part of the project, how will you address the issues with the degradation of insulation? What's interesting most of all is your test results are reminiscent of the characteristics presented by the use of water booster cells. I wonder if anything like this has already been invented and sold on the market?

I would use ceramic or glass insulation. At least they hold longer than plastic.

I think ionize air and water booster is compatible, both can enhance each other effect.

There are many many patents on ionizer use for verhicle, either at air filter or at muffler to reduce pollution. However, I never know it ever being sold. Weird.

I never know anyone from FE testing this too. There are someone from GEET replication but he seems to get negative result. But he use only spark gap to create ion. I never have chance to suggest this way.



BTW, if you replicate with stingo, make sure to connect the car coil or any transformer the correct way. Stingo produce more polarize output, one electrode is more negative than others, make sure you connect the uninsulated one to the more negative electrode.

While positive ion can be used for healing, it is only recommended under 30 minutes of use a day. The rest of the day is need to be with negative ion.