Garry Stanley Pulse Motor

[Matthew Jones]

@Sky

You have to turn the diode around to catch it on the attraction (Most of time).

My simple motor is in my signature.

Turions right a spark will change alot of things for you.

Matt

[Turion]

Sky,
I am planning on a build very similar to yours. Once I get it running, I plan on making some changes and additions. I will have two sets of coils and three rotors so that my middle rotor activates both sets of coils. The two sets of coils will not be aligned with each other, to try and avoid the severe cogging effect, although with a weighted shaft I actually WANT some cogging for my Watson machine. I also don't want the magnets on my center rotor to have coils on both sides of it at the same time. I am also thinking about making my magnets on the rotors alternate between N and S, so that there is a major change in the magnetic field as they pass the coils. I want to try it both ways and see if there is a difference.

I cut my disks out of the 1/2 inch plastic that cutting boards are made out of. Then I drill the center hole (1/2 inch) and put the circles on my bench grinder where the grinding wheel is supposed to go. The slip right on the shaft and I can lock them down tight. I spin them up and use a wood rasp and a few other things with a nice cutting edge to make my perfect circles. I don't have any other way to cut nice big circles like you have, and this plastic is forgiving when you don't cut it perfectly round. You can really clean it up when you spin it on the grinder.

I DO have a question about your coils. I know that they are flat, but is there more than one layer to them? If so, how many layers and what size wire did you use? Do you know the length of the wire you used? How much bigger than the circular magnets are your coils? Have you thought of using Tesla's design for your coils? When he made flat coils in several of his devices, he made them bifilar, then connected the end of one coil wire to the beginning of the other wire, which left him with two wires coming off the coil. He indicated that this gave him a higher output from the coil. Just ANOTHER thing I thought I might try once I get this thing up and running. I don't like to make modifications until I get an exact replica made.

I spent most of yesterday winding 16 coils for my Watson device and will begin putting it all together today. As soon as it is done, I will begin this motor. I have already cut the rotors and drilled all the holes, but haven't done anything toward the coils yet. I had questions, and I hate having to do something over again. Winding coils is the most boring thing I can think of!

As Matt said, the link to his Simple Motor is in his signature. You should take a look at it. I see no reason why that circuit could not be used to run this motor, and then you have the advantage of it also producing energy for you. It would require a spark gap and mechanical timing, but I think it would be worth it. I certainly intend to try it. Once I get it up and running that is.

I found a handy little unit the other day at a supply store for washing machines. It had 8 "spark gaps" on it each activated by a rotary cam. So you can open and close them all at the same time, or you can set your cam up to open different ones at different times. It has the 8 contacts already made, and the cam opens them, and actually pushes them against a second contact, so it could open one circuit and close another at the same time. Pictures attached.[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Matt, thanks for the info, but what is the signature, your avatar pic. I don't see any circuit. Hi Turion, thanks for the details, my coils use 24 gauge and they are 3/8" thick. which is the stator plate thickness and they are 1-3/4" diameter with a 1" diameter center hole, same as neo magnet. Yes there are multiple layers, though i just wound it without care for neatness and they still work great. Actually I used the same steel 1-3/4" diameter washers you can see on my motor shaft, to use as coil bobbins when winding and put 3 neo magnets between to hold them since that makes 3/8" and just wound around neo magnets and slid off washers then pulled them out when done. Can someone post a link to Matt's circuit, thanks and if it is his avatar pic, i cannot make sense of it.
peace love light
Tyson

[Matthew Jones]

At the bottom of this post, just below this writing it says "Simple Motor" in the color blue. Thats a link to it. IT been there a long time in every post I have ever made. LOL

Cheers
Matt (This is my signature, now look down)

[ren]

you guys seem to pretty much have it ...let me see if i can get this right ...if you wind a coil clockwise and then turn it over it appears counter clockwise .. if you power it you get a N at one end and a S at the other and you can drive a motor with this.

Cut this coil in half and power both center ends with Pos and both outters with Neg now you get like poles at both ends and repelling like poles in the center ...disconnct one end of the coil and turn it round and you come back to your original N and S poles to the outside and a S and N on the inside so it is all happy again.

the turned half forces the current which is still flowing from the outside inwards to spiral in the opposite direction in order to create the pole just as the magnet passing by this end casues the electrons to move in the opposite direction which is what casues the canceling effect.

Grasping this is a bit like trying to understand a rubiks cube

Avoid cores in these you will quickly learn that these motors dont need to be big to make usable power but mine did not even have the power to pull itself free of the pull of the cores when i tried cores in it and would not spin even if i gave it a helping hand, several other replicators have tried this with similar results, but that doesnt mean you shouldnt try it once you have a running motor i have learnt the hard way to trust no one and make sure i have tested it for myself.

Tyson im going to plead the 5th on the capacitive effect ..i suspect im using someone elses words there that dont accurately convey what i was trying to impart.
It may well be that someone else has summed something to be a capacitive effect in a previous post and that was the appropriate thing to call it there.

Hi Garry,

Im not sure if I understand you here. Are your coils in effect bifilar wound, and connected in series? Teslas patent describes how this effect can cancel the self induction which normally gives rise to "false currents." He also states that this effect can be used in a variety of different configurations, perhaps yours is another method, similar to the solenoidal arrangement. If I understand you correctly, the two wires arent wound side by side, but one is still in series with the other?

Regards

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi Matt, that link does not show up for me for some reason, can you post a separate one. Well i blew my good transistor today, the flyback may have over time got the best of it, or its because 36 volts is going into the base through a resistor. I don't think the base likes that kind of voltage and could explain why i had no problems with the hall effect device for triggering. Also, i remembered by testing again, that one can take the flyback using the one diode method in either attraction or repulsion, although you have to have a capacitor or battery load voltage equal or exceeding that which is being induced by magnet passing coil causing diode to conduct. So right now I'm thinking about the best switching method to use. Maybe a separate coil to fire transistor like the schoolgirl motor, because the reed switch will not last long I don't think. Of course The hall device works good, but complicated and more components needed. Matt, is this circuit you mention, is it reliable and efficient and simple. Also, I am using a big capacitor to capture the flyback and that darn neon is still staying lit, even though the cap is accepting the charge well. I think the parallel/series coil wiring may be causing this, any thoughts why this neon is still staying lit, because i'm concerned that even if I capture the flyback to reduce losses and protect transistor, it seems it will not matter since this neon is still lighting.
peace love light
Tyson

[Matthew Jones]

Simple Motor

Sorry about that. You may want to change your settings in your USERCP

Got USER CP (top of page) / Edit Options (on the left toolbar)/ (Roll Down to)Thread Display Options/ under Visible Post Elements Check Show Signatures

You have signature turned off in your settings. Alot of people add small works they have done in there signature, like me.

Cheers
Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi Matt, ah ha, i figured it out, you cannot see the signatures without being logged in, sorry bout that. I watched your video and looked at the circuit. I don't think the diode between the two negative polarities of drive and charge battery is needed and are you using a simple segmented copper commutator in that video. I built a Newman type motor in the past using copper pipe, with heavy electrical type tape to cover part of it for pulse width adjustment and I used multiple copper pieces, separated and then used brass stripping as the brushes and it worked well, of course this motor had to alternate the field in coils, where as our motors do not. This sure is a much simpler switching method, though I wonder do the losses from friction bother the motor much. Could you describe how you built the commutator and brushes and what parts you used, thanks. Of course with my motor i would need six commutator segments and one brush set.
peace love light
Tyson
edit: Yes, I am sick of frying transistors and I think this commutator method probably gives much better spikes for charge recovery like you are showing and Joseph Newman has shown.

[Turion]

SkyWatcher
In Matt's video he isn't using a commutator and brushes. He has a four sided cam on the end of his motor shaft that opens and closes a set of automobile points that give him the "spark gap". It's a great design and very simple.

[Matthew Jones]

Your hard one to keep up with Sky. I don't know where you got all that from.

Turions right its set of mechanical points turned by a camshaft. In the video I clearly say you don't the negative diode.

Here's the details http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/SimplePulse.jpg

BUT... I don't think you'll wanna bother building it as the inductive load from all those coils an 36 volt will most likely melt the tungsten off the points if you run it with out any recollection.You have to collect in a 36 volt battery and not a capacitor as the capacitor will fill up unless discharged regularly.

Also, I am using a big capacitor to capture the flyback and that darn neon is still staying lit, even though the cap is accepting the charge well

Thats why your neon stay on.

How much charge does your cap receive and whats the specs on it. You can calculate your output voltage by knowing those things.
Like I said before if those coils are in series you will be stepping up your voltage to really high numbers. I didn't catch the specs on them but I would guess just from looking at them at 36 volt input your probably stepping up to 300 volt or better. Thats too much voltage.

Another way you can drive your transistor to stop cooking the base is this way
http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/LowVSwitching.jpg
But there is still a chance that the step up voltage is much higher than you would expect. In that case the rating on the transistor's collector may be what will cook next.

Good luck
Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Turion, thanks for the info. Hi Matt, thanks for the info and ideas, overlooked just using one of the 12v batteries for the reed switch, that should solve it. The nte392 fried while i was checking position, so it wasnt even moving really, but this transistor can easily handle stalled current with my coils, stall current should only be about 9.6 amps at 36 volts and the transistor handles 25 continuous and 40 amp peak so it must have been either the base voltage or a flyback spike. The 6 coils are 3 pairs in parallel and these 3 parallel sets are in series. Also the neon doesnt come on till a fairly high rpm so I'm guessing the paralleling of the coils is suppressing the flyback spike to some degree and it must be the natural induction from the passing magnets causing it to light, becuase that neon should light at very low rpm's if it was from flyback at 36 volts. Now the cap i was using is a 2400uf-450volt, and it got up to about 130 volts. I'm getting another transistor tomorrow and I think using just one of the 12 volt batteries as you said should solve any issues. We will see, otherwise the motor has plenty of torque as long as the transistor stays alive.
peace love light
Tyson

[yx630514]

Is high as generator's efficiency?

Wants to know:

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I am seeking for the high efficiency the generator organization plan.

[Matthew Jones]

Now the cap i was using is a 2400uf-450volt, and it got up to about 130 volts

You can expect your output voltage is about 30% higher (to be safe) then caps peak at 130v .. If you cap is reading in that range and growing you should already know you cannot stuff lower potential into a higher potential so your output is higher than 130volt.
You may want to choose a bigger transistor.

From the Data sheet of a NTE392
Collector−Emitter Voltage, VCEO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100V
Collector−Base Voltage, VCB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100V
Emitter−Base Voltage, VEB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5V

The NTE392 is definitely to small for what you are trying to do. I wouldn't use that transistor in a small monopole. You need transistor that will take 1-9 volt or so at the base at say 5 amp continuous, Something like 300 - 400 volt on the collector - emitter.
Then you can scale the base voltage low if you using 12 volt like I showed, just hit with 500 ma or so should saturate it.

This a good transistor for your application. I have used them several times.
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/15149.pdf
Even though its a good inductive switch and it had low drop I still think if your pulling more than 10 amp I would try to set it up in a Darlington Pair. You should get a really good response from it.

Cheers
Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Matt, thanks for the information. I have been using an nte2300 in the mean time for some tests and i put the coils in series to keep the amps within that transistors range. I put a full wave bridge across the series coils going to another 36 volt charge battery bank in an attempt to absorb all the voltage that may be lighting that neon and it still lights up at a certain rpm. One would think this would have kept that neon off. Obviously with this high voltage transistor it's fairly safe, any ideas why i can't keep this neon off, thanks. I hope it's not a 12v neon put in the wrong packaging.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Oh yes, forgot to point out again that the neon is across the collector and emitter and when the 36volt drive battery is disconnected then it does not light if manually rotated since it has no complete circuit.