Garry Stanley Pulse Motor

[Matthew Jones]

That transistor looks a little better. I don't like there data sheets though, they don't show the performance curves , but whatever just me.

I would add between 2k and 5k of resistance between the collector and the neon bulb.
You can have the same problem in a monopole and that is the solution. The neon will still light when the pulse gets high enough.

See what happens is the neon is in the power trail. So technically some current can go through it as long as the battery is hooked up, but if the transistor is not opening the current is not enough to step up the voltage. But when it opens it will step up the voltage and add alot of current so at that point it is looking for the shortest path. Then the transistor closes but current still wants to move and it has the potential after leaving the coil so the neon lights up.
More resistance will fix it.

Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Matt, thanks for all your help and ideas. I picked up another NTE392 today, do you think it will survive with the modifications of only using one 12volt battery for base triggering and the 36 volt charge bank and the neon with added resistance. Reason i ask is, because it really drives the motor well compared to the nte2300 and ultimately I would like to get enough power through this motor to put on a scooter, 3 wheeler or something to play around with and improve upon.
peace love light
Tyson

[Matthew Jones]

Give it a shot. Your burning up a couple of dollars at worst. the 12 volt at the base will make difference for sure.
I would think that 2300 would be the best choice but I don't know with out charts.

Let us know
Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi Matt, thanks for your thoughts. After many tests today with the nte392 and nte2300, the nte392 works fine either charging a capacitor or a battery bank. However, I am getting heat in both transistors and I think it's because the transistors are not turning on fully or fully saturating. So i may need to stick the 2300 or a smaller npn in a darlington configuration and see how that works. I didn't have this heat issue with my other motor, though i used a hall effect device with darlington pair, so that will probably solve it.
peace love light
Tyson
edit: oh i forgot to mention, i moved the transistor and components off the proto-board and am using those plastic connector strips. It is a dramatic difference as far as motor torque. I guess the proto-board copper interconnection pieces were to high a resistance.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, that was the problem. The NTE392 was not saturating enough, I used the NTE2300 to make a darlington pair and it can tear my hand apart now it has so much torque. Of course the amps went up as well, but that's what it needed. No problems with heat anymore, barely any heat noticeable, will do longer tests tomorrow, but this is a major improvement coupled with getting rid of that proto-board. Let me hear your thoughts. Now this can definitely be used to power a bicycle, 3 wheeler, scooter, etc., etc.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, here is a pic of the new setup for the transistor switching circuit, which works great.

peace love light
Tyson

[Turion]

Hi SkyWatcher,
Could you post a wiring diagram complete with part numbers or specs so we can see how it all goes together?

My magnets got here today, so I will begin my build on Tuesday. Have lots of hiking and biking planned for the next two days, so will be ready to seclude myself in my cave next week and get my build up and running. Thanks for the pictures and for keeping us posted on your progress.

Matt are you replicating this also? I am kind of excited to see if I can use your circuit to power this thing Matt, and how well it will work with the mechanical switching and spark gaps. I hope it will crank my Watson device and I will have the solution to the world's energy problems. Or at least have some fun trying.

I intend to construct two different sets of "pancake coils", one using a bifliar construction with the end of one wire hooked to the beginning of the other, as Tesla did, and the other set the way you did yours SkyWatcher, just to see what kind of difference that will make.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Turion, It's my joy to share pictures and build stuff. I look forward to seeing your project come along, post pics if you have them. Here is a cad pic i whipped up of the circuitry.
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/642...leycircuit.png
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I tried 48volt input to the pulse motor today and all i can say is, wow. This thing needs to find a home on a vehicle of some kind. Much more shaft power than my other motor and I will guess its because the magnets are closer together and a thinner coil.
peace love light
Tyson

[Turion]

SkyWatcher,
Thanks for the schematic. That was the only piece I was missing. All the other info to build this thing is located somewhere in this thread if you take the time to read through it.

Hope to see your 48 volt model roar past my house some day as the power plant of the latest energy mobile. That would be awsome!

[Matthew Jones]

Hi folks, I tried 48volt input to the pulse motor today and all i can say is, wow. This thing needs to find a home on a vehicle of some kind. Much more shaft power than my other motor and I will guess its because the magnets are closer together and a thinner coil.
peace love light
Tyson

Have recollected into any batteries yet? I am just curious if you have rough numbers.

Great work
Matt

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Matt, I only have 7-12volt,7AH gel's on hand, so I'm limited to 36volt input to try charging a bank of 36volts. And of course, you can't use any lower voltage charge bank or it bogs down the motor. I still have to make a new timing wheel that fits and then mount the reed switch, then I will look at how well batteries charge off the flyback of the motor. It should be fairly good, since i can charge that 2400uf-450volt capacitor to over 100 volts pretty quickly and use the cap to light a 60watt incand. bulb to full brightness briefly.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi Matt, I put the new timing wheel on and mounted the reed switch. I tried charging using flyback to start with using 12 volt input charging a 12v battery, results are not that impressive, though it does charge the battery but rather slowly. Then again it's only drawing around 1watt at no load speed and when shaft is loaded, charging actually reduces. Not too surprising, considering it's not designed as an energizer, it's more of a motor. It may have better charging with coils in series, since the paralleling of coils may be interfering with flyback collection. Otherwise, it is superior as a motor and I've been running the motor longer to check for heat under heavy shaft loads and no heat is discernible anywhere, even at 36volt input at 1.5amps holding shaft with hand and it burns. Will come up with a better load to test with, like a vehicle of some kind.
peace love light
Tyson

[Matthew Jones]

What no picture? You killing us here. LOL

You might get a better charge if you just common ground the 2 battery banks and place one diode on top of the collector straight to the positive of the charge battery. If it doesn't decrease you rpms and torque then you should do pretty good. But it might slow the thing down.

Cheers
Matt

[Turion]

SkyWatcher and Matt
I built two versions of Matt's simple motor. In the first one I used a rotor with four magnets. I used a reed switch on the magnet on the opposite side of the rotor from the coil to trigger the coil. (It wasn't directly opposite or the coil wouldnt have been triggered at the right time, but you get the idea) The motor ran like a champ, BUT the "flyback" wasn't what I was hoping for. Then I built an exact duplicate of Matt's design with automobile points and a cam to trigger the coil. THAT design put out plenty of "flyback". Same rotor, same number of winds on the coil. Everything was the same EXCEPT the 'sparkgap" I had in the system. I am wondering if you would get much more "flyback" if you used a "sparkgap" that is more "open air" than a reed switch. Just a thought, and I hope this made sense.

Yesterday I started construction of my Watson device powered by this motor concept. Everything is going well. Didn't want to post pics here yet, as they would be of the Watson device setup which is what I was building first, but TODAY I begin work on the motor, and will keep you posted on THAT part of the build. I am going to have two rotors, each with four magnets on them. If I need more than that to power my machine, I will just add more rotors with more magnets. I have a nice long 1/2 inch keyed shaft to work with. With the kind of weight my rotors have, if the motor is powerful enough to get it moving in the first place, it should be awsome.