Radiant Energy Experiment Replicated

[EgmQC]

Another interesting point. It appears that a diode has no effect. Regardless of the position (in series) the light will work.

Clamped my fluke amp probe around the bar and was reading about 5 to 3 amps A/C reading (not a reliable reading) at times the spark gap fires just right and the meter reads 1400 amps and shuts down.

Respectfully,

Core

DMM have hard time with RF , your spark gap act as a transmitter everytime it switch on/off off/on , use a analog one or better, a RF thermo-ammeter like a Weston model 507 but with a higher rating, that will give you the exact reading and it will not be disturbed by the RF since the current must heat it for it work.

Best Regards,
EgmQC

[JasonD]

Raui,
That's a great idea. I actually have 4 diodes so that shouldn't be a problem to test. By the way here is a few pic's of my apparatus.

[JasonD]

So, I hooked up the diodes. I took 2 high voltage diodes and hooked them up in series with a 60 watt 120V light. Of course I hooked up the diodes in opposite directions, and what I would expect to see if this was conventional a/c electricity would be that the light should not come on. Well the light did come on, so at least in this test, the diode does not seem to have any stopping effect, in either direction.

And I did some other tests.....

I hooked up four 60 watt 120 volt incandescent light bulbs in series to my stout rods. I did not have my shunt in place(the rod across the top). Unfortunately it did not light up at all. Very disappointing. So I decided to play around with my spark gap. I made it bigger and smaller. When I made it bigger, nothing really happened, when I made it smaller, the bulbs came on a little bit. The smaller gap seemed to work better. I am thinking when I make a smaller gap, the sparking frequency climbs. Next I opened the gap up really wide and stuck my screwdriver in between the spark gap(don't ask me why I did this). Basically what I was doing was having the spark gap discharge through my screwdriver. Out of one spark gas terminal, into my screw driver, and into the other spark gap terminal. When I turned it on it looks like I have 2 spark gaps in series. One between gap terminal 1 and screwdriver, and screwdriver and gap terminal 2. This made an large difference in the light energy output from the bulbs. Well if one screwdriver made than much of a difference, why not try 2 screwdrivers(I bet you saw that one coming). So I ran the experiment again with 2 screwdrivers, essentially making 3 gaps in series. Well this made a huge increase in light output.
Very carefully I adjusted the gap sizes, and this is what was important in getting the most light:
1) all gaps must be equally spaced, any gap bigger than the others seems to hinder the light production.
2) making the gaps as small as possible, this seems to increase the frequency of the sparking. Interestingly the loud spark noise seems to go away with a smaller gap. Also I noticed when my 60 watt incandescent bulbs are hooked up to the Radiant Energy and I have a very loud disruptive spark, I can see the filaments in the bulbs moving, aggressively. When the spark is adjusted smaller the filaments seem to by a lot more stable. I believe this may be a reason why some of my bulbs had filaments that failed. FYI If you have a blue light in your bulb, you are arcing inside the bulb, this also seems to damage the filament. Typical yellow light out of your incandescent is good, blue light not so good, if you trying not to blow the filament.
3) the more gaps you have in series the better. The more gaps I made(with my screwdriver) the more light I got from the bulbs.

I hooked up 2 bulbs in parallel, they seemed to work just the same as in series. No brighter or dimmer.

I took a lead from one stout bar and another lead from the other stout bar and shorted them underwater. This was very interesting. When I brought the two wires together they sparked underwater and made a funny "clink" noise, and I had a very difficult time trying to figure out exact where the noise was coming from. It wasn't't't super loud, but you don't have to strain yourself to hear it. I had to bring the two leads together very close to get them to spark underwater. When I could maintain this distance properly I noticed the production of gas bubbles at spark, and a lot of them. I believe I was smelling ozone coming from my water bucket. I could only get these gas bubbles to appear when my underwater connection was actually discharging, if the leads came together, the gas bubbles would stop. No gas bubbles were produced with the leads in the water being placed far apart. The water was ordinary tap water, nothing was added to it. BTW I did not stick my hands into the water during this experiment. I took two plastic rods and taped the ends of the leads to them and used this to do my manipulations. Basically I am a chicken SH** when it comes to getting electrically shocked!!

Another thing I found interesting about the radiant energy is that is seems that you can use wires to move it around like you would with normal electricity. The only weird thing is that you don't need large wire to carry large amounts of work. It seems like thin wire works just fine on heavy loads.

Having fun with my experiments!! I keep you posted on new discovery's.

Sorry about not having to many vid's or pic's. It is hard to do that when you are actually performing the experiment. And I haven't convinced the wife about how exciting these experiments are and that she should help me document them. I'll work on that!

[rickoff]

Hi

Does anyone have a close up picture of the polished plexiglass item that Karl spins in his video 1 at about 4 min 30 sec? I've seen this demo on another video but again couldn't really make out the shape of the item.

Regards

John

Karl told me this item is a "Rattle Back." These can be made of just about any material, but are usually stone or wood, and many sold these days are of plexiglass. You can read more about them and see some photos here:
Rattleback - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Rick