Kapagen Theories, Replications, Winding Diagrams, Circuits & Schematics. KAPAGEN ONLY

[seth]

Thanks for the diagram Zinc! Loooks very interesting - please keep us informed of any results.

I'm MrFlathunter on Youtube and you commented on my 12V Kapagen vid. I have already tried lighting the CFLs without the reversed tesla coil and yep - it still works. Ive never tried without the spark gap and grounding - ill give it a try today. I thought the output would be much less without spark gap and grounding, but perhaps im completely wrong - only one way to find out!

Like many others, my kapagen is certainly NOT self feeding, nor OU.......
.....yet.

Good luck!

[Sal]

Hello friends! This is my atempt to test kapagen... I start with not self running first.. details and results will be posted here when i finish testing.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

[Sal]

First test positive.. I have no readings yet. All my 75W bulbs are dead!! except the one you see at video, which is a 100W halogen. Twomorow I am gona get some bulbs.

YouTube - KAPAGEN free energy!!

[thedude]

thought i'd throw in

Hi everyone!

Very interesting line of experimentation. Thanks to everyone who is participating and sharing. Here is a link to my video demonstration of what i'm seeing.

I'm not trying to discredit the kapanadze or kapagen device in anyway. It could very well be that i'm missing the benefit of having the generator in the circuit. However, I did make a kapanadze generator coil and tested with it both with my HV oscillators using ignition coils and modified CFLs to measure back EMF production, as well as with my 3 microwave transformer HV ouput for my Tesla coil (1 MOT for inductive ballast and other two in series for 4k volt).

In my case there is good and not so good news to report. Good news is. Wow! You most certainly can light a series of incandescent bulbs in this fashion. Depending on the wattage and type of bulb, you can have some really efficient lighting and even more brilliance than normal from your bulbs. In some cases with certain types of bulbs, two bulbs would light better than one at the same current and voltage levels at the input! Very interesting. Seems to indicate that there is a resonant frequency that needs to be either matched or induced in the back field of current which can provide greater efficiency.

Not so good news in my case is that the Kapanadze generator coil seemed to inhibit the flow of back field current from ground to my bulbs, given my 4k MOT HV power supply specifically. I noticed no real benefits to using with my self oscillating chargers and their ability to light CFLs either.

I'm not at all discouraged with this line of experimentation and rather would really like to see others working toward understanding how this source of radiant energy can be better captured and utilized.

Thanks for letting me share. Sure look forward to seeing what other ideas can be incorporated. I think Tesla would be smiling.

Edit - as i'm not specifically concerned with the kapanadze generator coil I will likely start another thread to discuss the use of lighting using back emf.

[peterbra]

Hi everybody ! I'm just curious if anybody got closer to getting this up and running like Kapanadze did ?

[kcarring]

Edit - as i'm not specifically concerned with the kapanadze generator coil I will likely start another thread to discuss the use of lighting using back emf.

I couldn't agree more. There have been many overunity replication attempts, and all I have seen are failures. I do not believe jnaudins is overunity either, I'm not convinced. Kapanadze - possibly an investment scam. However, it remains very interesting how resonance and spikes seem to really make your "power money" go a long way. Even bifilar circuits display this, and it makes me scratch my head.

[aussie]

hi,

great thread, am thinking of giving it a go as well.

i have read a lot about it, watched all the videos i could find about replications and so on.
Just about everyone in videos is saying a similar thing, as in having
connected > 2000W worth of light bulbs and driven them with 200W or
whatever.
the thing that puzzles me is the amount of light shown in videos.
does the camera totally distort the amount of light being emitted by the bulbs?

looking at the following picture http://jnaudin.free.fr/kapagen/image...rt1800W-01.jpg
Robert is lighting up 1800W worth of light bulbs, but the top of the table is
in the shade.
When i connect my 1000W flood light or even a 500W one and place it on the floor, then the
whole room is as bright as daylight and there is no shade on tables or
cubboards because of light reflecting of walls and ceiling.
i do know that a flood light focusses the light, but also has nearly halve the rating.

Has anyone measured the actual light being emitted by the bulbs?
connecting 1800W worth of bulbs (rating) and light being emitting only being 200W would not be that great.
In one of Naudin's videos ‪New test of the Kapagen v3.3 by Jean-Louis Naudin‬‏ - YouTube,
the bulbs seem to only just glow and in the video they are rated at 14x150W.

i am not trying to discredit the invention.
i have replicated a couple of ideas from this forum and they work great.

Would be great if you could comment on light output.
How does one of the bulbs from a replication stand against one (same rating) that is plugged straight into the powerpoint?

[altrez]

hi,

great thread, am thinking of giving it a go as well.

i have read a lot about it, watched all the videos i could find about replications and so on.
Just about everyone in videos is saying a similar thing, as in having
connected > 2000W worth of light bulbs and driven them with 200W or
whatever.
the thing that puzzles me is the amount of light shown in videos.
does the camera totally distort the amount of light being emitted by the bulbs?

looking at the following picture http://jnaudin.free.fr/kapagen/image...rt1800W-01.jpg
Robert is lighting up 1800W worth of light bulbs, but the top of the table is
in the shade.
When i connect my 1000W flood light or even a 500W one and place it on the floor, then the
whole room is as bright as daylight and there is no shade on tables or
cubboards because of light reflecting of walls and ceiling.
i do know that a flood light focusses the light, but also has nearly halve the rating.

Has anyone measured the actual light being emitted by the bulbs?
connecting 1800W worth of bulbs (rating) and light being emitting only being 200W would not be that great.
In one of Naudin's videos ‪New test of the Kapagen v3.3 by Jean-Louis Naudin‬‏ - YouTube,
the bulbs seem to only just glow and in the video they are rated at 14x150W.

i am not trying to discredit the invention.
i have replicated a couple of ideas from this forum and they work great.

Would be great if you could comment on light output.
How does one of the bulbs from a replication stand against one (same rating) that is plugged straight into the powerpoint?

I have noticed the same issues in my tests. The light output is far less when hooked up to the device.

For example: You can make a light box and take 2000W of lights and plug them into the wall. Read light output with a lux meter. Then plug in the light box to the device and light output is %70 less.

I most likely did something wrong but it did not seem to work for me. And everyone that I know who has performed the same tests came up with around the same results.

-Altrez

[Farmhand]

G'day Aussie, You bring up a good point, I don't have a kapagen, but I notice the same thing with some of my other devices. Maybe it is because the light bulbs are designed to work from low frequency high current, but the device outputs high frequency medium current or low current.

The output of the device cannot be determined by the number of lightbulbs of a certain wattage it makes to "glow", the first picture you linked of the lights inside looks strange, like the camera settings are messed with to make it look like the bulbs are lighted better than they are, the light from them is yellow and there are a lot of shadows as you say. Good call.

To make the lights light properly and determine the true ouput power the output should be converted to 50/60 Hz at 110v or 220v or if just for measurement DC is OK. Which should not be too difficult for someone who can build the device. I may be mistaken and the output may in fact be converted in such systems. But if so why not a voltage and current reading on the output. Or better still a wattmeter.

To get a accurate reading from regular meters 50/60 hz AC or DC output would be best. That is one of the reasaons I either don't bother with output measurements or don't take much notice. The brightness of the light is what is important.

I also don't understand people doing all the calirometer testing and soforth looking for O.U. from Ma devices, If it isn't obvious it isn't worth worrying about in my opinion. Also devices that do not scale up well are not much use either.

Cheers

[aussie]

I have noticed the same issues in my tests. The light output is far less when hooked up to the device.

For example: You can make a light box and take 2000W of lights and plug them into the wall. Read light output with a lux meter. Then plug in the light box to the device and light output is %70 less.

thanks, that is what i was afraid of.
does the unit at least use 70% less energy to do the job?
if the unit was closed looped, then hell, bring it on, even at 70% less light

G'day Aussie, You bring up a good point, I don't have a kapagen, but I notice the same thing with some of my other devices. Maybe it is because the light bulbs are designed to work from low frequency high current, but the device outputs high frequency medium current or low current.

if that is the case, then it would probably work better with flurescent lights,
which would be an advantage for me, as i have not seen any normal bulbs
in shops for a while. weren't they supposed to be phased out?

The output of the device cannot be determined by the number of lightbulbs of a certain wattage it makes to "glow", the first picture you linked of the lights inside looks strange, like the camera settings are messed with to make it look like the bulbs are lighted better than they are, the light from them is yellow and there are a lot of shadows as you say. Good call.

looking at the top most bulb, it even looks like the light emitted is so low
that we can see the filament.

To get a accurate reading from regular meters 50/60 hz AC or DC output would be best.

it would be interesing to see if it would be the same to connect the lights
to the unit, measure the input voltage, ampere and lux and then connect
the same lights directly to a power source with same amount of volts and current and again measure the lux.

[Ron Hammar]

HI All,

I am Ron Hammar and I live in Mt Shasta CA

I just got out of the bath tub and while I was there the thought came to me about the windings of the coils. CCW and CW and CCW. Most coils when you wind them you go CW or CCW and when you get to the end you keep going the same way but come back over the coils that you just did CW or CCW.

We have a lot of drawing saying that you X# of turns CCW and X# of turns CW and X# turns CCW. This would make sense if you start each coil at the bottom of the core and wrap them going up the core.

Has any one tried this? This could give some very new effects on the coils possibly.

[boguslaw]

Ron ,
Keep going, very good thoughts...

[Miloman]

Hey Xen???, whatever. to win your battle of authenication,, just build it as JL Naudine and BUY your luminie whatever thingy and post your results,
Appears to me you don't believe in this technology, yet you are taking up the whole page with your time and space and knowledge witt.
I am not being mean spirited here, I just came to here to look at plans to BUILD my own and come to MY OWN conclusions.. But I have a slow connection so pages load slowly anyway, but might be faster if there wasn't so much negativity and more positive assertions posted,,"HOW?" because I would be busy reading worth while postings and not even notice the speed.

For the life of me, I can't understand why all these NAY say'ers come to these OU sites with there negative attitudes! They must have some sort of VESTED intrest in keeping the rest of the world tied to the endless payment for energy while destroying our planet,, that explains it! they have a continual pay check from our dependence on there service or product, they have the time and REASON to search these sites and dog them!

[Farmhand]

One thing I've noticed when taking video and photo's of lights is that the
cameras usually self adjust to compensate for the bright light and in doing so it
makes the light look duller than it actually is.

So it is very difficult to tell actually how bright a light is going by a picture or
even a video, unless you know the camera settings used and if the camera is
on "Auto" or "manual" adjust.

I think if a camera was manually adjusted it could portray better the brightness.

But that might also allow for the camera CCD to be damaged or something.

This is why accurate Lux or Lumen or Watt meter reading are important.

The photo's mean very little mostly. At least to me.

Cheers

[darthmarls]

Just do the test-all will benefit from it! Why not?

DENIED. I resent the inference. You're attempting to put your words into my mouth. Those are your words. I never made the above statement that you are editorializing on.

I said in response to your statement of "A simple luxmeter measurement comparison test series as suggested on overunity would wipe away all doubt or someone closing the loop." that, and I quote myself here,



Now a word about evidence:



Then you proceed to quote the following members: Barotoulogos, Aether22, and E2Matrix. I have nothing against these members or what they say, but you quoting their opinions is not presenting evidence.

It seems the argument has turned boring and repetative. If It takes as long as me finishing my working(I hope!!) replication to run the lumens test, I will. It would be helpfull to me if someone would beat me to the punch in the name of advancing the cause and moving this story along to the finish line, so to speak! Thanks for all the useful advice provided so far!