Plasma propulsion / Lifter / EM Antigravity Mini AirCraft

[TanTric]

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thank you so much harvey!

just one last question, to discharge the tripler, i just need to put a resistor between HV output and to stud (chassis ground)?

hugs, i dont know what i would do if it were not you, you are the wisdom in person...

[TanTric]

i have connected a transformer of 220V (in) to 12V AC (out).. to the brown cable (T) and STUD (ground), i have tryed to measure dc between the HV output and to the ground (earth ground)... but nothing...

am i doing something wrong?

If Brown is labeled 'T' then Brown could be Transformer AC in (Hot).

The STUD could be AC reference (Neutral) = Chassis Ground.

And of course Red should be the G2 bias which is an adjusted by the pot.

[Harvey]

i have connected a transformer of 220V (in) to 12V AC (out).. to the brown cable (T) and STUD (ground), i have tryed to measure dc between the HV output and to the ground (earth ground)... but nothing...

am i doing something wrong?

Sorry I missed your previous post - in answer there - Yes.
But some multipliers will also have an isolated cap on the AC input that may need discharged to that terminal also depending on the charge voltage.

In answer to this post quoted here, is the STUD tied to earth ground?

That is the reference. It may seem counter intuitive to have an AC pin tied to a DC reference but this is a standard practice. The AC neutral in this case is zero volts as is the DC ground reference so they are bonded.

IMPORTANT: Your 220V to 12V transformer must truly be isolated - no conductivity between the 220V winding and the 12V winding. Then you can Earth Ground the stud and take your measurements relative to that.


Please keep in mind that I am only making an educated GUESS as to how your device is arranged. I could be wrong as to what it is and how it is internally organized and that is why I recommended the test.

Also, consider that this device could be why the original TV failed to work, it may have an open diode inside.

Can you post the numbers that are on it?

[TanTric]

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harvey the numbers are: LF0058 8/416 , also have UG0508 marked in the plastic!

no, the stud is not connected to the earth ground, i would test that!

thank you

PS: i dont think the TV failed because of that, i detected some burns on the TV big circuit board, but far away from the high Voltage circuit.. the flyback is also good, so i guess this tripler must be OK!!

hugs

[Harvey]

Wow, that one is really hidden from existence - must be rare:

TV / Monitor Spare: LF 0058 - 619007201 / 37222647...

N.L.A. (No Longer Available)

No idea who mfr is or what the pin nomenclature is .

But if you can trace back how it was originally wired in the set, then it should be straightforward. You will just need to ID the primary voltage on the HV XFMR and match that up.

How did your measurements go after bonding the STUD?

[TanTric]

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what is to ID the primary voltage on the HV XFMR ?

harvey im not an engeneer!!

eheh, sory still not tested, im going to sleep... i will give news tomorrow, because im almost shore it will work the way you sayd!

@all, video of my lifter tonight!!



BOOM

[Harvey]

what is to ID the primary voltage on the HV XFMR ?

harvey im not an engeneer!!

. . .

Hi Juju,

Sorry for that.

ID = Identify
HV = High Voltage
XFMR = Transformer

So in order to use it in the same way it was used in the TV set you need to identify the primary voltage that was originally used for the high voltage transformer. Here is an example of a monitor schematic I found on the Web: http://www.brentradio.com/images/Oth..._schematic.gif

You can see the HV transformer down in the lower right corner - you will notice that this particular unit has a primary voltage of +73V and is driven by the Horizontal Output stage which means it is being pulsed at about 15kHz. You can also see that there is a tap there that feeds the +150V B+ for the rest of the monitor.

Every monitor or TV is different even among manufacturers and the primary voltage can be anything. Also note that there is no voltage multiplier in that schematic. So the transformer in that case must supply the whole magnitude on it's own and this is one reason for the higher primary voltage.

So, knowing the primary winding voltage on your XFMR will help to ensure you are using it in the same way it was originally used.

[TanTric]

help

harvey, i cannot read any tripled voltage at the output, even with the stud connected to earth ground...

here is the back and front pic of the circuit from where i removed the components, there are missing 2 caps (i thinked it was resistances) that were in series with HV out of tripler... those caps say 022K630 ... are that 22KV caps?

i have salvaged that TV long time ago, so im not really shore of the connections missing, but the last time i removed the tripler, it dont had any cable connected to "Stud"... so i dont think there was any connection there on the first time i opened the TV!

the cables of the tripler where connected in the front circuit, i think there was in the spot you can see 2 holes in the back circuit (besides the 4 holes of caps spot)!

what else can i test? i dont want to damage this one (if it really is good), its the only one i have, and i cannot find nothing similar in my electronic stores...

[xee2]

@ TanTric

A voltage multiplier is a 3 terminal device. See diagram at Voltage multiplier - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The output and the input ground are connected by diodes - so you should be able to find these two connections. The other connection is the other input. The multiplier will work down to the forward drop voltage of the diodes. This is ususally about 10 volts for high voltage diodes. So you should be able to test it with a low voltage output from a transformer.

[TanTric]

@xee2, so the input and output ground are common (the same)?

ok, im going to open the tripler very carefully without damage it!


@all im still cannot get flight with lifter connected to copper bars of flyback hairpin, i guess the spark gap is wasting to much energy, have to put a more efficient one without noise!

My new video, Cold Proof!

First tunning the frequencys, then Test of 10min underwater with 15W fridge bulb without increase in temperature, also the copper bars in short circuit and then testing a paper card on the spark gap, dont make holes, only stains!

what a perfect heart!! this one goes to harvey! BOOM

YouTube - ‪jujusalva's Channel‬‎

[xee2]

@ TanTric
You should not need to open tripler. High voltage diodes are made of a string of low voltage diodes in series. So a 30 KV diode might be 30 diodes rated at 1000 volts in series. If each diode has a 0.5 volt forward voltage the total for the 30 KV diode will be 15 volts. Three 30 KV diodes in series would then be 45 volts. So it may take 45 volts or more to forward bias the diodes between the input ground and the output. I an assuming you have something that will put out that much DC voltage. The AC driving the tripler only needs to have a voltage high enough to forward bias one of the three diodes in the tripler, thus a 20 VAC source should work.

[TanTric]

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@xee the only transformer i have besides my 12V that put out AC... is one that puts out 110V, more dangerous, so i must discharge the tripler between HV OUT and stud before use it right?

so maybe harvey is right about the pins, but the 12V are not being enough to pass to the output?

cool!!

EDIT: so i can put dc in the tripler input?

[xee2]

EDIT: so i can put dc in the tripler input?

You can put DC in but it will not get tripled. Multipliers need AC to work.

EDIT: Also use a current limiting resistor. High voltage diodes usually can not handle much current. At least mine do not. My 30KV diodes are rated at 30 ma. max.

[xee2]

but the 12V are not being enough ?

12 volts may be enough. The diodes in your multiplier are probably only 15 KV since the input is 8 to 12 KV from flyback output. Each diode only needs to be able to handle the input voltage, not the multiplied voltage.

[TanTric]

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i cannot get any output with 12VAC input, so maybe my tripler is damaged? or im missing the pins?

the flyback will not put out more that 1 or 2 miliamps, so maybe the resistor is not needed...

UPS: i missed your point, yeap using the transformer i should use a resistor, where do i put it, and what value do you advice?

12 volts may be enough. The diodes in your multiplier are probably only 15 KV since the input is 8 to 12 KV from flyback output. Each diode only needs to be able to handle the input voltage, not the multiplied voltage.