is this a voltage tripler? help with pins!

[TanTric]

Jnaudin mention in his lifter experiments, that the "voltage triplers" can be commonly found in crt color monitors, so i looked at my 5 damaged ones, but only one, have something similar (was near flyback transformer) to what Jnaudin use...





mine is this one, but i dont know how to identify the AC~IN, A (ground), D (diode - not used), HV Out PINS!

in one side the pins are more inside, and the other, more outside!







can someone help?

the reference of tripler (if it really is one) is HLIN - 016 CHI 9748, but its impossible to find info about this component in google, also cannot find any good info about this "voltage triplers" than naudin talk about!

[TanTric]

This High Voltage power supply used is able to generate up to 25-30kV DC Output from a 12-24v DC input. With a fully adjustable DC input power supply (0-24V/4A), it is possible to adjust the HV output between 5 to 30kV. This HV power supply use a common flyback driver circuit with two 2N3055 power transistors as a push-pull oscillator. A common flyback transformer from an old TV/monitor can be used, the transformer HV output is connected to a 30kv Voltage tripler which commonly used in all color TV monitors.

In the Basic Lifter experiment the DC Input of the HV Power supply is 15 V @ 2.3 A.

Reference: The Basic Transdimensional's Lifter Experiment by JL Naudin

im putting arround 20 volts and 1 to 2 amps on my lifter, i only can get 0.5cm levitation from ground, so the only thing that is missing so i can get better results is this tripler...

[sucahyo]

Try this:
Jochen's High Voltage Page : TV cascades

[patmac]

@tantric


You could connect it @ 120 VAC and test if output is 360VAC is high but don't kill you by using carefully your volt meter. With very low voltage maybe doesn't works because HV diodes need more voltage differential to across them.

[TanTric]

@sucahyo thank you very much, but the component i have only have pins at the bottom, and not cables going out of like the ones of the url you show!

@patmac, thank you so much, good idea!

i will follow your suggestion and try to put 110AC with a transformator i have (220 to 110), and see if i get the 330V on the other side but...

there's no problem if i connect the input to output? and about the input, when i will be using my flybackwill put out DC (there's no problem with that?), so i need to know whats the ACIN pin and ground... and also D (diode)!

hugs

@tantric


You could connect it @ 120 VAC and test if output is 360VAC is high but don't kill you by using carefully your volt meter. With very low voltage maybe doesn't works because HV diodes need more voltage differential to across them.

[TanTric]

...

on the electronic board the pins were marked with "1", "2", "3" and "4"...

maybe this can be a reference?

[TanTric]

...

i taked a picture of the spot in the board from where i take the component, and it haves a symbol of 2 coils.. just like a transformer.. now i know that the inside pins are the input (primary)...

this symbol also represents voltage triplers? because they were not supposed to have any coils inside i guess? or maybe this is just a transformer?

left side:

[TanTric]

...

maybe that was not a voltage tripler? i can measure 0.03ohm resistance between to legs but nothing on the other ones!

yupiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii

only now i finnaly found a real voltage tripler just as naudin, in my big old color damaged tv, it was there all the time, and i had a click in my mind to search it again...

is the thing on the left side, a relay switch?

[TanTric]

how do i know what is the e1, e2 and ~ pin on my tripler? mine the red cable says "G2" and brown cable is "T"... the blue cable i think it the HV output, but there is another pin on the bottom, as you can see in my previews pic!



Color TVs usually contain a 3-stage cascade in a plastic housing to produce the accelerating voltage for the picture tube. They give 27-30kV dc when fed with an input voltage of about 8kV (peak-to-peak). If you've got the type as shown, connect your input to (~), ground to (e1) and expect the output on (hv out) (the thickly insulated lead). Don't connect (e2), it will short-circuit your ac source. There's a similar type around, but with these two cables swapped, so check this out if it doesn't work. On some cascades, (e1) is labeled "A" and (e2) "D". The additional solder-tag (not labeled in the above image) gives the output of the first stage (i.e. about 8kV). For a circuit diagram see 80kV super cascade. As ac input source you could use an oil burner ignition transformer or, better, the 8kV 20kHz flyback supply.
These things are easy to get, relatively harmless and widely usable for a lot of experiments. Also, they are the components of the super-cascade described below, so go and get a bunch of these :-)

HINTS: That end of the hv cable that's plugged into the CRT contains a current-limiting resistor, so it's advisable to leave the whole cable untouched. Discharging the cascade without this or a similar resisitor (some kOhm) will sooner or later destroy it.

Source: 30kV TV-cascade

[sucahyo]

How about pulsing it with battery and see which end produce voltage?