Stingo Solid State Battery Charger

[Godfrey]

555 Signal Generator/Power Stepper

I see. What you want to use 555 for?

Ok, you asked I'm working on a CMOS 555 based frequency/pulse-width dynamically controlled power stepper. The kind of stepped power one might drive a motor with or control the heater on a soldering iron.

Application-wise, Producing maximum sensory feedback about radiant production/recovery - wadititisanwaditshudbe It's exclusively for testing and measuring different coil designs. Spark-gaps, as previously mentioned, too, as well as EVGray tube type devices. So got to say it's more than a signal generator because I intend to pulse various levels of power into the target device. I'll also be aiming to scale down and minimize any HV heavy going on, being primarily concerned with constructing a safe, portable, and informative testing environment.

I'll always be driving a power switch with the 555 signal. The Stingo setup may just be the sharpest way to do the switching...capiche?

- Godfrey

[sucahyo]

Ok, you asked I'm working on a CMOS 555 based frequency/pulse-width dynamically controlled power stepper. The kind of stepped power one might drive a motor with or control the heater on a soldering iron.

I see. Good luck .

Be carefull when playing with spark, I kill two 555 and 5 computer fan when I get spark at primary. Watch out the heat too, it can melt transistor core.

[7imix]

In the recent thread about don smith, there was a link to a long document that had a 555 timer circuit near the end of it. The circuit is for driving a spark gap to resonate a tesla coil. I replicated a low voltage version of it and took some scope shots.

YouTube - Don smith trigger circuit

Sorry for the video being sideways.

The stingo impulses have nicer slopes, but this is meant as input to a spark gap which produces the nice steep slope.

[Godfrey]

Thanks for the video and scope shots, 7imix. Very interesting!

I replicated a low voltage version of it and took some scope shots

What's different about your circuit. 3V? What coil?

Capacitor and battery will partially change the radiant to normal electricity. If you charge it directly with radiant output the battery will stays cool. If you use capacitor dumping mechanism the battery will get hot.

Thanks, that's really useful data.

toroid wound coil like the one I post before. That just my actual circuit. The coil can be anything and you still get better efficiency with two.

Why have the single toroid coil paired with a car ignition coil? Is the single coil stingo feeding the one with the car coil in a staged configuration?

From what I recall Peter Lindemann once mention that bifilar coil will make the coil collapse current to flow to each other coil. He said that for radiant recovery, bifilar may not be optimal.

Although I haven't experimented with them enough to measure their characteristics, I think that a bifilar coil's type of capacitance may help preserve/pass on radiant energy.

- Godfrey

[sucahyo]

Why have the single toroid coil paired with a car ignition coil? Is the single coil stingo feeding the one with the car coil in a staged configuration?

That just an actuall implementation, something that I already have. It is not that important. But what you mention also happen, the circuit have effect on each other, that the other coil may still works even if you pull some of its component ....

Just like what in front of me now, I add relay based oscillator to the FWBR merger, the relay sing too .

Although I haven't experimented with them enough to measure their characteristics, I think that a bifilar coil's type of capacitance may help preserve/pass on radiant energy.

Well, just try it. I found that sometimes implementation defies theory. Stingo teach me that . So I am not that surprise if I am wrong now . But please compare bifilar and single filar having same impedance, core and wound.

[Godfrey]

Got some Stingo wave forms and measurements to share.

I’m using the 3V test circuit like before, but with an additional 100k resistor like so:



The transformer is the same. I wish I knew more about it, but can’t seem to decode its markings or find its model # online. It measures around 40 Ohms for each side, and the windings on each look even as far as the amount of copper involved, but the thickness of the wire on one side seems to show a larger diameter through the tape, so I don’t think it’s a 1:1 isolator, but probably a stepper. I don’t think it matters anyway, because I’m not using the secondary for anything, nor am I shorting it. And this does maximize the reverse spikes, which is what we want to do.

I started out testing it with the LED in place, just to get a fix on brightness as I tuned the potentiometer. But once I got an idea of where the sweet spots are, I took it off and left the secondary open, because there’s no oscillation otherwise.

The all the way to the left, lowest setting is screwy, because there’s no resistance (I ought to put a smaller fixed resistor in series with it, like 1k). I already posted shots of the noisy wave forms that are produced, measuring with the scope positive probe on the base of the PNP transistor. The current draw is maximized here, at about 120ma and minimized at the right end of the dial to about 18ma.

But as I turn the knob right, at a certain point, the brightness of the LED jumps quite suddenly. This is within the first third of my 10k VR. There’s a sweet spot there which maximizes the frequency to 2.8kHz and duty cycle to around 10.5% for output reaching 18V and a current draw of 60ma :



Now the 3V test bed gets interesting because the output does not overwhelm the scope or 1x probes :



As I turn the knob more to the right, duty cycle %, decreases. The frequency declines in the middle. Then the frequency starts to rise again, and I hit a new sweet spot around the last third of the knob where the frequency peaks again at around 2.6kHz :



The duty cycle drops to 4.2% :



This is where the best performance appears to be. I couldn’t see a brightness difference in the LED at 3V, but when I ran the circuit on a 9V battery, this is the point on the dial where my green LED turned orange. Repeated tests at 9V blew the LED and seriously heated up the transistors, but did prove these sharp chops optimize output and current draw, which is reduced to about 40ma. What’s really exciting is that the output spikes reach a potential difference of about 65 volts! Check out the compact spikes in the output:



Before I could actually measure the resistance of those sweet spots, my circuit failed. I’m guessing I romped on the transistors too much, which were not heat-sinked, when I was running my 9V tests. I started twisting the knob, etc.

Where did you say you get your cheap transistors, Sucahyo?

BTW, the DSO201 seems to have some compatibility differences with Seeed Studio’s hardware because I couldn’t get a number of the firmware versions they have been posting working on mine. The the default startup firmware, dubbed Paul’s 1.51 has a nice interface, but the source code is not available, nor will the firmware get upgraded further. The real problem with it is it clobbers SanDisk 1GB and 2GB SD card formats, if it handles SD cards at all! I found a version of the library and application firmware (2.50) on the Chinese manufacturer, e-Design’s BBS (which is completely in Chinese!).

I decided to post it along with all the source code on a new forum I created specifically for DSO201 users:

DSO201 Nano Oscilloscope Forum

- Godfrey

post note: One important measurement I left out was output current...only way to really tell what the total power output of the radiant spikes were.

[7imix]

Cool, dude, thanks for the test and scope shots.

I have been working on something else for a bit, but hopefully I'll get back to testing stingo soon.

[sucahyo]

Very interesting result Godfrey .

But add at least 100 ohm between the PNP and potentiometer to prevent you from burning up the PNP.

It is interesting that you get two sweet spot. It also show different wave form. one with bouncing, other don't.

You don't get oscillation with secondary being shorted? try reconnect the power. Don't short it while running.

I use TIP2955, TIP32C and 2SB507. I prefer the cheapest TIP32C though. I don't think I can notice the difference.

[7imix]

You don't get oscillation with secondary being shorted? try reconnect the power. Don't short it while running.

I have noticed that sometimes I need to give the circuit a kick by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it. The transient spike generated by closing the circuit seems to start the oscillation.

[sucahyo]

I have noticed that sometimes I need to give the circuit a kick by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it. The transient spike generated by closing the circuit seems to start the oscillation.

Yes.

BTW, I get blackout again last night and try both parallel and series. It seems both have similar brightness. So I goes power out is the same on any configuration. High voltage low current while in series has brightness equal to low voltage high current in parallel. I don't measure input power though.

[Godfrey]

I've been putting together a new higher voltage Stingo using a TIP2955/TIP3055 pair. I got it working with a toroid coil at 6V and 12V and one of my ignition coils at 12V. They both light a neon bulb across the output and I got the ignition coil secondary dimly lighting a florescent bulb. I'll be posting pics of my setup, scope shots and current measurements. I'm very hesitant to subject my little scope with the 1x probe to the output. I'm ordering a 10x probe that will be good for up to 300V, and gathering ideas on how to make my own HV probe.

You don't get oscillation with secondary being shorted? try reconnect the power. Don't short it while running.

I have noticed that sometimes I need to give the circuit a kick by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it. The transient spike generated by closing the circuit seems to start the oscillation.

Gee guys, I'm really scratching my head over this one. Not only my little 3V transformer, but the toroid coil is acting this way. I've got a switch which I've flicked off and on several times to try and get it working, with a shorted secondary. I can even start and stop the oscillator by disconnecting and connecting the secondary short, while the circuit is on!

Running a load on the secondary of the small transformer and the car coil worked. I haven't tried shorting the secondary on the car ignition coil or running a load on the secondary of the toroid coil yet. Will investigate further.

- Godfrey

[sucahyo]

I've been putting together a new higher voltage Stingo using a TIP2955/TIP3055 pair. I got it working with a toroid coil at 6V and 12V and one of my ignition coils at 12V. They both light a neon bulb across the output and I got the ignition coil secondary dimly lighting a florescent bulb. I'll be posting pics of my setup, scope shots and current measurements.

great . I get brighter neon with my transformer than my car coil.

I'm very hesitant to subject my little scope with the 1x probe to the output. I'm ordering a 10x probe that will be good for up to 300V, and gathering ideas on how to make my own HV probe.

Mine reach 1000V on analog, about 800 on digital multimeter. Maybe you need higher.

Gee guys, I'm really scratching my head over this one. Not only my little 3V transformer, but the toroid coil is acting this way. I've got a switch which I've flicked off and on several times to try and get it working, with a shorted secondary. I can even start and stop the oscillator by disconnecting and connecting the secondary short, while the circuit is on!

Do you test it with full circuit or the simple one? Now that you mention it, I seem to test it with the simple version. The one with neon load at primary use my hand as resistor.

[Godfrey]

Sparks!

I just got through testing my Stingo circuit with the ignition coil’s secondary shorted to the case. It works, in fact, sparks big-time! What’s interesting is that I had two leads connected to the output which I expected to spark, but got nothing. What appears to be happening is that the primary terminals are arcing to the secondary. On the positive terminal a huge white arc extends to the case and makes a loud crackle. It burned a hole right through the insulation on the jumper clip! The wire I used to short the secondary is near the negative terminal, but insulated well. A dark blue-purple coronal arc extends from the negative terminal to it. It gave off lots of ozone. Having made ozone generators before, I noticed a difference, it having somehow a more uplifting effect than usual. That and the inductive energy given off by the coil gave me a positive feeling, almost light-headed.

@Sucahyo – Where did you post the info on how to set up a Stingo Sparker like 7imix’s?

I get brighter neon with my transformer than my car coil.

I did notice that my little transformer coil oscillates at a much higher frequency, around 5kHz as opposed to my ignition coil which oscillates at around 500Hz. Higher frequency seems to be more efficient for our purposes.

I’ve yet to try a neon on the output of my 3V circuit, but the other day, I was measuring 80 volts coming out of it. I think you only need around 60V to start lighting a neon.

Mine reach 1000V on analog, about 800 on digital multimeter. Maybe you need higher.

Thanks for the info. I haven’t been able to get any kind of reliable reading of the voltage output with my digital multimeter. It’s obviously got too slow a sampling rate. In A/C voltage mode, I measure 20 volts output coming out of the ignition coil. That’s got to be wrong. Maybe an analog one would work better.

I’m still getting the 10X probe – it’s a switchable 1X/10X actually. I’ve got one big microwave capacitor with a big resistor in it, but I think I need several of these to put together an HV probe. I haven’t tried sourcing them online yet.

Do you test it with full circuit or the simple one?

I’ve just been using the simple circuit so far - even though I do have the extra potentiometer already soldered onto my PCB, ready to be jumpered in.

Now that you mention it, I seem to test it with the simple version.

Do you mean the simple circuit failed when you shorted the secondary too?

The one with neon load at primary use my hand as resistor.

How shocking! I’d rather use a resistor

I’ve got a few days off from work coming up, where I’ll have some time to compile pics and measurements to post.

- Godfrey

[7imix]

@Sucahyo – Where did you post the info on how to set up a Stingo Sparker like 7imix’s?

Here's the post I built my first sparker from.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post99691

I've built a few of these, sometimes I use a 1000 ohm resistor and sometimes I use a 100 ohm.

Thanks for the cool info, godfrey. I've got some fun stuff to share, I'll post in the stepper motor thread.

[sucahyo]

Thanks 7imix .

On the positive terminal a huge white arc extends to the case and makes a loud crackle. It burned a hole right through the insulation on the jumper clip! The wire I used to short the secondary is near the negative terminal, but insulated well.

If your coil is not oil filled, maybe you can fill it with oil.

A dark blue-purple coronal arc extends from the negative terminal to it. It gave off lots of ozone. Having made ozone generators before, I noticed a difference, it having somehow a more uplifting effect than usual. That and the inductive energy given off by the coil gave me a positive feeling, almost light-headed.

Thanks for the info. I never know such different exist . All I know that other people complain headache when doing experiment with car coil. I guess different way of switching can make a difference.

Did you connect the common terminal to battery positive?

I did notice that my little transformer coil oscillates at a much higher frequency, around 5kHz as opposed to my ignition coil which oscillates at around 500Hz. Higher frequency seems to be more efficient for our purposes.

I think it depend on the coil resonant frequency. If the coil have iron core, it would prefer low frequency.

I’ve yet to try a neon on the output of my 3V circuit, but the other day, I was measuring 80 volts coming out of it. I think you only need around 60V to start lighting a neon.

Yes.

Do you mean the simple circuit failed when you shorted the secondary too?

No. To be sure I retry it again with complete circuit today. With car coil the neon bulb is brighter when the secondary is shorted. and I recall that with analog volt meter my air core transformer give the opposite result, less output voltage with shorted secondary. I think the core type can change result..

YouTube - Stingo shorted secondary experiment

How shocking! I’d rather use a resistor

That is the origin of the name stingo . I sting my hand and found this weird circuit....


I will look forward for your result .