Stingo Solid State Battery Charger

[sucahyo]

Thanks 7imix.

So this circuit grabs some radiant power thru oscillation without a sudden open or discharge of the coil? Or do the transistors act as switches?

You guys hurt my brain when you threw in the Bedini circuit. Is this the SSG type that imhotep shows with the CPU fan, but now combined somehow with the stingo circuit?

I think stingo switch coil better than joule thief. with much lower duty cyle too.


While stingo can even be used to run stepper motor, it do not require motor. Yes, it is an SSG type with one major difference, stingo consumption will reduce with more load.


To charge battery, you must use the FWBR version.

If not, you should be able to observe a large current draw when the stingo is NOT oscillating, and the current draw should drop when it is. You should also hear a whine from the transformer when stingo is oscillating. Don't leave the stingo drawing current without oscillating for too long.

No, stingo supposed to not draw any current if not oscillating.

If you experience that, then it is possible that you connect the PNP not in inverted way.

[7imix]

No, stingo supposed to not draw any current if not oscillating.

If you experience that, then it is possible that you connect the PNP not in inverted way.

Thanks for clarifying that. I have seen high current draw without oscillation sometimes, but it may only happen with certain coils and resistances.

[sampojo]

Thanks to you and sucahyo for your helpful replies

for 7imix:#585

Another thing to try is finding the biggest ferrite toroid you can find and winding as many windings as you can of 22, 24, or 26 gauge wire around the toroid,

I suppose you are using the thinly insulated motor wire, which I have not had a chance to look for yet. I assume it is not hard to get or very expensive. You always use that wire for windings, not the general purpose wire, don't you? (except for something like the Kapanadze coil, maybe?)

Also for a source, I would want to just use a DC wall wart. Does it need to be a battery with no AC riding on the dc that may be associated with them? Just add some extra filtering if its a problem?

[7imix]

Thanks to you and sucahyo for your helpful replies

for 7imix:#585



I suppose you are using the thinly insulated motor wire, which I have not had a chance to look for yet. I assume it is not hard to get or very expensive. You always use that wire for windings, not the general purpose wire, don't you? (except for something like the Kapanadze coil, maybe?)

Also for a source, I would want to just use a DC wall wart. Does it need to be a battery with no AC riding on the dc that may be associated with them? Just add some extra filtering if its a problem?

Sometimes I use the wire with thicker insulation if I am winding a high voltage coil.

I have not been able to get the stingo to oscillate using an ac mains source. Use a battery. If you try an ac mains source, let us know if it works.

[sucahyo]

Thanks for clarifying that. I have seen high current draw without oscillation sometimes, but it may only happen with certain coils and resistances.

Ok. Mine always do not draw current when not oscillating.

Also for a source, I would want to just use a DC wall wart. Does it need to be a battery with no AC riding on the dc that may be associated with them? Just add some extra filtering if its a problem?

I use many power source and I found that it seems the power supply need to be at least 2 Amp for 1 ohm coil.

Using lower amperage power supply will result in reduced power but good efficiency. My stingo consumption for charging big battery is about 1.5A.

[skaght]

Battery revitalized...

So I used a stingo to try and resurrect an old nicad for my cordless powerdrill. The battery is working considerably better with each charging! Originally the battery would hold the charge for 30s to 1 min. Now I've actually used it to drill through some copper plating that took a couple minutes and there's still charge left over.

So I turned to a pair of AA alkaline batteries and recharged them next. They were slow in charging the first time. They appear to put out a solid current, but my digital camera doesn't seem to think they're charged and shuts off with a low battery warning. I tested current output and they are still charged. It seems like the camera can't see the power in them.

[sucahyo]

Congratulation skaght .

You may need to check the voltage of each the AA alkaline. Digicam use voltage for charge level. If the voltage is too low, the digicam consider it empty. Don't overcook the alkaline or you may make it leak. Once it leak, don't use it or it may corrode the digicam battery contact.

[sampojo]

Following up on the coil spec

From 7imix post 585

To get started with stingo, try breaking apart a "wall wart" transformer and using this as the coil. Drive the secondary (finer wire, more windings)

and

Another thing to try is finding the biggest ferrite toroid you can find and winding as many windings as you can of 22, 24, or 26 gauge wire around the toroid

Quite a difference in architecture between a transformer type coil to a toroid but happy to hear either can work. I would suspect a toroid is better...

Is there a reason you couldn't wire together both primary and secondary windings in a transformer type coil setup to make it one bigger more powerful coil? Can the fields generated cancel each other?

[sucahyo]

Is there a reason you couldn't wire together both primary and secondary windings in a transformer type coil setup to make it one bigger more powerful coil? Can the fields generated cancel each other?

Shorting the HV part is safer.

Paralleling both may reduce output power and I never notice increase. Using them in series will surely reduce output because output is in inverse with the coil impedance. More coil impedance = less output.

Powerfull coil = low impedance and high inductance, maybe low capacitance.

[Hajame]

Not h-pulse

Hi sucahyo,

I have built two Stingo circuits using same components but different layout. Both can get 50-60% conventional efficiency, but one of them does not produce correct h-pulse. Its pulse shape is just plane shark fin like (Sorry, my scope has its backlight failed). It can still work with 12V battery source and outputs 350mA with 600mA input.

According to Bedini, h-pulse is the key to battery conditioning. What if a battery is charged by incorrect pulses but still have its capacity filled? Is there anything we should pay attention with the layout?

[Harvester]

latest circuit?

hi,

have seen tonnes of circuits in the last couple of days, reading this thread and am wandering what the latest would be to charge 12V lead acid batteries?

Have tried one version
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post116258
and was pretty impressed, as it squealed nicely right away.
i think i was overdoing it a bit though, as i had a little accident.
the toroid melted right through my plastic parts box
will report on it later when i get the pictures off the camera.

@Sucahyo
nice and simple little circuit, thank you !!

cheers
Harvester

[Guruji]

Stingo to a 6v solar

Yes this is a good and efficient circuit to charge batteries. I've build a small 6v solar panel to charge my Bike battery cause I had problems in starting and it's charging the battery very well thanks to Sucahyo.
Thanks

[Harvester]

Hi,

here are the pics.
The toroid has a diameter of 50mm (2") and it was wound with ~30m of AWG30.

Power supply used was a notebook power supply 19V, 4.4A.
Charging a dead 12V battery (~0.3V) started at ~40V and input current was
chosen at 1A.
After dinner, there was no more squealing and the pictures show the rest.

I have taken a larger toroid (100mm - 4") and retested - staying in vicinity.
After about 3/4 hour the squealing changed frequency and the charge
voltage went down to 0.7V by itself.
For some reason the charge voltage will not increase above battery voltage(12V) any more. It is around 5-7V.
Nothing ever got hot, only warm to the touch.
What is happening here?

When trying to use the 1 ohm resistor instead of battery and trying to adjust
to 1V output, I cannot get past 0.34V. As soon as I try and increase more,
the voltage reading drops to 0V.
Any idea what this could be?
Using TIP2944, TIP 3055, cap = 1mf 250V

PS. what is the latest circuit diagram used?

[Harvester]

ok, build another one of these circuits and it works again.
i guess one of the components got fried in the last test.

this time i stuck to a 12V power supply, choosing 0.85A input for circuit.

i was really, really amazed with this circuit on a totally dead, as in dead since 1997, 6V SLA battery, showing 0.01V.
after three days of charging for about 4-5h a day, the battery now has a voltage of 6.77V!!!!! - leaving over night before measuring.

i do not have a 6V consumer any more, so i hooked up a small 12V light bulb.
the light is dim and the voltage drops to 6.54V, reducing by 0.01V every 5 sec or so.
when disconnecting bulb again, voltage goes back up above 6.70V.
I will discharge at C20 and cycle it again a couple of time, but it is looking good so far.

the effect on the old 12V SLA is still the same though.
it starts charging with 13.89V and after 1h the charge is at 7.34V.
This battery has only been removed from a UPS about 5 months ago.
very odd.

[topperos]

Stingo -air or ferrite core

Hi Sucahyo,

I know that no one wrote here for half of year, i built ure circuit and it works good i have with toroid 0,5mm thick wire and 1.9 ohm resistance about 47 percent of COP. I wonder if the air core wouldnt be better at stingo?

Topper