Ongoing "Radiant" Discussion

[Farmhand]

Nvisser, That inductor does look very similar to what I have the two on the left of the picture. http://wv0ima.bay.livefilestore.com/...003.JPG?psid=1 .

From what I can tell by the numbers they are only 42 microhenries which is a shame, they are pretty !

I have looked at that thread before, your setup looks pretty good to me I want one !

The board also has some large toroid transformers I think they are.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...006.JPG?psid=1

I'm not quite sure what fun things I should use them for.

I may need to build the whole circuit after all it could take my a while but it will be worth it I think. I have no knowledge of PIC controllers as yet.

Cheers

[nvisser]

No need to use a pic. Seamonkey's circuit will do the job and the frequency and pulse width are easy adjustable. You will need a scope to adjust the pulses and frequency though.
I will measure the core and wire size for you and also the number of turns tonight just to give you an idea. It is much easier if you have a inductance meter, but they don't come cheap.
One of Seamonkey's circuits is so that you can hook it permanently to the battery. It is powered by the battery and will keep it desulfated. It does use some of the battery power. I think it is a good idea to use with a normal solar charger that keeps the batteries charged.

[Farmhand]

One of Seamonkey's circuits is so that you can hook it permanently to the battery. It is powered by the battery and will keep it desulfated. It does use some of the battery power. I think it is a good idea to use with a normal solar charger that keeps the batteries charged.

Yes I did notice that but I did not think of using it with a solar setup, sounds good. Now i'll have to make both.

The inductor I have has 2 layers of 14 turns each, so 28 turns or so, the wire is about 1.1, 1.2 mm diameter, the best my old eye's can tell anyway, I have trouble seeing shiny stuff up close it looks thicker, the core is only 32mm long.

I hope I have read and learned enough about MOSFETS and thier driving circuits from what Seamonkey and others have written for us, to be able to able to successfully use them now. It will be a breakthrough for me.

I learned today from a CT scan that I have damaged another two discs in my neck, so now I definately have time to spare for fun stuff like this.

nvisser thank you very much for the info and your help, it's people like you that give people like me the confidence to try these things.

I have a scope but it is only a cheapie, it gives a trace though, I will have a dig around in the shed for a meter with inductance there are a few there that might work.

Cheers

Oh and does the 470 uf cap need to be 400 volt or can it be a lesser voltage rated one ?

[nvisser]

The 470uF cap sits over the battery or input supply so a 25V will do.

[7imix]

No need to use a pic. Seamonkey's circuit will do the job and the frequency and pulse width are easy adjustable. You will need a scope to adjust the pulses and frequency though.
I will measure the core and wire size for you and also the number of turns tonight just to give you an idea. It is much easier if you have a inductance meter, but they don't come cheap.
One of Seamonkey's circuits is so that you can hook it permanently to the battery. It is powered by the battery and will keep it desulfated. It does use some of the battery power. I think it is a good idea to use with a normal solar charger that keeps the batteries charged.

Can you point me to which circuit you are talking about? I would like to build it.

[nvisser]

Check post 21 of this thread

[nvisser]

Farmhand
To give you an idea of my 250uH coil.
Ferrite core 38 x 10 mm
Wire size: 1.2mm diameter
3 layers of 25 turns (75 turns)

[7imix]

Check post 21 of this thread

Thank you!

[Farmhand]

Farmhand
To give you an idea of my 250uH coil.
Ferrite core 38 x 10 mm
Wire size: 1.2mm diameter
3 layers of 25 turns (75 turns)

Yes well that does indicate that my little inductors are in fact only 42 mh which I now am sure thats what the 420 means 42 with 0 - zero's if it said 421 that would be 420 mh I think, so ok I will buy some core's and go from there, are the shiny black core's silcone steel ?

So 250 mh seems like a good value, so I will replicate your coil.

The circuit that uses power from the battery it desufates seems a fair bit more involved than the other so i'll start with the easier one, with the external power source.

I have a 240 to 12v - 5 amp power supply (open board so needs enclosure) that came from an air conditioning control unit it also has 220v filtered outputs, was destined for the scrap heap but I replaced an 85k 1 watt resistor and now it works fine so that is what I will use to power it the output is 12v neat.

Thank you.

[nvisser]

Then you're learning well as a result of your own
curiosity and experimentation!

The lead acid battery is an amazing device which
is capable of a very long life if treated with care.

Sulfation of the plates is a normal consequence of
battery discharge. When the battery is re-charged
most of the sulfation is restored to active plate
material however a small remnant of the sulfate
may remain in "pockets" of the plates.

To overcome this residual sulfation it was customary
to perform an "equalizing charge" periodically. This is
an Overvoltage Charge Cycle which will revert the
sulfation which is still fresh (amorphous) back into active
plate material and the "gassing" which occurs will "stir"
the electrolyte well in order to prevent "stratification."

In time this initially amorphous sulfate will change to
its stable crystalline form which cannot be "desulfated"
by normal charging voltages or even an equalizing
charge. As a result the battery will gradually lose its
capacity due to the increasing of the pockets of sulfation
which assume crystalline form.

The Desulfator Circuit applies to the battery being treated
very short (nanoSecond) pulses of very intense current at
a voltage which can rise to over 50 Volts on a 12 Volt battery.
This "radiant spike" of energy is capable of "desulfating" even
the crystallized stable form of sulfate and rejuvenating the
plates of the battery.

The individual spikes have a very high instantaneous power but
the average power is very low. Consequently, the battery
being treated will (should) not get hot to the touch.

Most desulfators operate at a relatively low frequency of from
1 to 5 KHz. At that range of frequencies the pulses are very
effective at desulfating and rejuvenating but will not have
sufficient power to "recharge" the battery.

Therefore, you will want to charge your battery in the "normal"
way and use the desulfator, either continuously or intermittently,
to keep the battery free of sulfation. The amount of power
needed for desulfation is low; generally less than 5 watts at the
very most. About 1 Watt is typical for even a large lead acid
battery.

The Inductor is the "workhorse" of the desulfator. It must have
a very low DC resistance (less than 0.2 Ohms - smaller is better)
and an inductance of from 100 to 500 microHenries. The inductor
can be hand made by winding heavy wire onto virtually any
magnetic core material (ferrite/powdered iron toroids, ferrite
rod, silicon steel "I" laminate bundle from an old transformer,
etc.) or it can be purchased. Any inductor with a current rating
of at least 2 Amperes will suffice.

I've attached diagrams for circuits which can be used to
"tune" the pulse width for maximum radiant spike output
from any inductor that you may desire to try.

Once the variable resistors have been "tweaked" for the
operation you desire then the values may be read with an
Ohmmeter and fixed resistors used in the final version of the
circuit. Different Inductors will require different resistance
values to get the "just right" pulse width for the best radiant
spike output with the least amount of input current.

When testing one of these circuits always have some sort of
"load" attached to the Inductor output to prevent damaging
the MosFet. A light bulb makes a good load and also will provide
a visual indication of Radiant Pulse strength. I often use a
12 Volt/ 300 mA automobile incandescent lamp.

Hi Seamonkey
What size battery can I desulfate with one such small unit with a 250Uh coil.
Will I have to install one such a unit on every say 100Ah battery or will one unit be enough on a bank of parallel batteries.
Could I leave it on permanently on a set of batteries charged by a solar regulator?
Thanks
Vissie

[Farmhand]

Check this out (video below) today I finally got my solar cap dump charge pump working properly, I had to add a small oscillator to force the scr to commutate now it works a treat, in just a few hours dead battery indicator glass is now green.
Very promising. I've had it on a SS oscillator for three days at 5khz before doing this I wouldn't do it before if the battery is real bad like the one I have it started at .9 of a volt and the oscillator desufated it a bit first.

Best I can do for a vid is from my picture camera on my webpage. Better one later. Please watch or download. just hover mose to see options.

solar pump - Windows Live

I would rather explain in a better video I have already taken but my computer with dv connection is inoperable. i'm working on it and new youtube account. It appeared to work very well and the indicator lenz has gone from low charge (white) to battery good (green) even though the battery is only holding 4.5 volts. I'm very positive about this method of getting some charge in a dead battery.

The circuit is basically the basic SCR cap dumper with 55 watts of solar panels 75 000 uf of caps dumping 9 volts over battery voltage with an externally powered SS Bedini trifiler and small cap pulser 470uf, output to circuit between caps and battery to force Commutation.

I will make a drawing and post a better video soon time is tight.

Cheers

[Farmhand]

In the video above the solar panel output hardly goes above 400-600Ma and the final output is pulses of 2 amps and more. When the solar panel output gets to 3 amps and above the pulsing output is quite radical, with pulses over 5 amps and very rapid. I thought there would be more interest. I suppose with no OU what is the point, In my opinion we should not seek Overunity. We should seek Unity. Ego is a dirty word to me. There seems to be some massive ego's around here that are blocking the real progress and complicating things more than necessary. If we persue practical goals the rewards will be many if we seek to get overunity from free energy we will just waste enormous amounts of time and energy. I fear time is short for learning and practical usefull things are needed by many .

Regards

[nvisser]

I like your video! Waiting for your diagram.
There has been a few of this setups on the "Use for the Tesla switch" thread.
I am still working on different configurations to try and get the same results than John Bedini had on his Solar amplifiers.
I will test my last idea tomorrow and will post a video IF it proves to be good, otherwise I will just give up for now till after the conference.
At least if I learn something new at the conference about this solar amplifier I will know that I tried every last idea i could think of.
I have tried it with just a huge cap bank, With parallel to series caps, With series to parallel caps using a boost converter and now finally a mosfet voltage doubler.
You really need to try to attend this conference.

[Farmhand]

You really need to try to attend this conference.

Hi vissie, I would love to do that but with my bad neck it would be torture. I am terrified of flying on commecial planes as well, military planes I have no problem with, it's all about the maintenance. I do envy you that you can go, it would be real neat to attend.

As you probably can see what I do generally is try to replicate an effect using whatever means possible. In my opinion the effect is what is important and the results.

I like your video! Waiting for your diagram.

Thats all the encouragement I needed, I will make a drawing today and this time I will try my best to make it neat. I will also photograph the boards which are rough looking because I am choping and changing to make the effect I want by trial and error. When I have a system that is fully adustable to my needs I will rebuild it piece by piece in a permanant style and package it all together in a large perspex box. I still have minor issues but I think this is a very potent arrangement and cost very little to build.

I think John Bedini's work with battery conditioning and charging is very important, for now if the grid goes down it is the best option to keep our food fresh and so on. This is important to me anyway, the grid power goes off here all the time, there are predicted a lot of CME's "coronal mass ejections" from the sun in the near future, I think the grids will be fried, sometime in the next few years. God help us all when it go's down.

Cheers Nvisser

[Farmhand]

Diagram

Here it is, the oscillator can be powered from the caps but I prefer to power it from the battery bank that is there anyway that way I can use the oscillator output on it's own at night.

The oscillator needs to be trifiler with a bridge output I think, I also prefer to use it with it's own cap pulser with the SCR on the positive line but thats not necessary the spikes are probably better but i'm sook about spikes and panels.

The reason for the oscillator is to force the SCR to commutate which keeps the voltage of the caps up. The zener value depends on what you want the cap voltage to be, what the panels are capable of and the charging battery's voltage. example if the battery I want to charge is 12 v and the panels can only supply 19 v I could only use a 5 v zener or so if the charging battery is only 7 v i could use up to 11 v zener or so, my thoughts are a multipole rotary switch with several different zener values to choose from.

I'ts still working but the battery is quite resistant, when I first put it on the desufator the voltage went way up and down a few times then leveled out at 4.5 v and hasn't climbed much yet, no matter the method it will still take time I guess and there will be some that can't be restored.

Cheers

Here's a shot of the waveform from my new three transistor device same as the small schematic in the attachment.http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...004.JPG?psid=1

When I stretch out the horazontal gain there is a little bit of ringing there.