The Vibreedo Coil

[Ecoman11]

This thread is for anyone interested in building a charging device that I created several months back called a Vibreedo Coil. Since then I’ve moved on to more advanced developments so I’m pleased to publicly release this design. I hope those who are interested will test and post their results to confirm it’s output power and efficiency.

I must state before hand that this device will not run flawlessly unless the quality of assembly and components are used, therefore what is recommended below is for bench testing only. I will not take any responsibility for practical applications.

The Vibreedo Coil

At first glance, it appears there’s nothing to it, in which there isn’t. You wonder, “What does it do?” It does what it’s supposed to do without all the fancy components; generates, switches and collects (or waste). It basically works by placing a reed switch in what I call a “diffusion zone” which is the disturbance area of a permanent magnet opposing a pulsating coil. The switching, current and magnetic field are synchronized naturally in this repeated sequence:

1. a reed switch is turned on (contacts closed) by an opposing pole on the outer coil.
2. a current is triggered into the coil
3. the opposing top pole collapses turning the reed switch off (contacts open).

This sequence is repeated in milliseconds causing the reed contacts to flutter, this will determine the frequency rate. I have not concluded the actual clock source however from my observations it can either be the proximity of the permanent magnet (effecting the reed switch sensitivity) or the speed at which the magnetic field in the coil expands and contracts.

Building Instructions:

Create a typical coil by winding copper magnet wire (22-26g high thermal class) around a plastic spool with a 1/2 to 1” air core (or steel core). The size of your coil will be relevant to the sensitivity of your reed switch and load. For first time builders I recommend small spools ranging from 2” D X 2 1/2 L. The number of turns can vary (150-300 turns) however what is more important is the thickness from the outer wire to the inner core. I recommend spooling at least 1/4” to 1/2” of wire wound in uniform. In Fig 1.2 it shows an anti-clockwise winding so if you have pre-made coils make sure the south pole is facing upwards. You coil should measure about 6-8 ohms and 16-18 mH.

The sensitivity of your reed switch is expressed in AT (Ampere*turn) which I recommend ranges from 40-80 AT. Some reeds are rated 40-60 AT or 55-80 AT, which is fine. Solder or wrap two diodes at the end of each lead as shown in Fig 1.1

You’ll need a few various size neodymium magnets (square or round) about 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8. You may need to stack a few to get the right magnetic field through the outer wire into the core.

Wire and connect the components as per Fig 1.1. (Be sure to leave a few inches of slack to move the reed around the top of the coil) then follow the instructions below:

Use a current meter on the negative of your primary power to monitor current. Also make sure to connect a charging battery before you proceed to the next steps.

1. First position the center of you reed at the top edge of your coil as per Fig 1.3. and hold it firmly. Be sure to keep the magnet away and don’t touch the leads on the reed!
2. For steel core position your magnet at the bottom facing north towards coil. For air core start in the center facing south towards coil. Refer to Fig 1.3 and Fig 1.4.
3. Slowly start to lift the magnet upwards towards the reed until you hear the reed fluttering.. What you will hear is a white noise or aerosol spray sound that will increase or decrease intensity as you lift the magnet higher and lower.

You may see sparks from your reed’s contact when the current gets too high (which will weld the contact leads together) so lower the magnet to avoid this. If you’re using a current meter I suggest to fix the magnet anywhere from 50mah-100mah. Repeat this process and be ready with a glue gun or tape to mount your reed and magnet in place. If you don’t have a current meter find the lowest point when your magnet activated the reed fluttering and mount it about 1/8-1/4” higher.

Troubleshooting:

1. Make sure you have the right pole facing towards the coil.
2. If your magnet doesn’t activate the reed switch then try a stronger magnet or stack a few more on. Also try to move your reed switch forward and back to get the right proximity. If that doesn’t work then your wire spool may be too thick.
3. If you see sparks on the reed contacts and your magnet is set to the lowest current, then your wire spool may be too thin.
4. If the circuit is shorting then check your connections and also the reed’s contacts with a magnifying glass to make sure it’s not welded together.

Low quality reed switches may burn out easily or create weld splatter in the glass. Rhodium tip contact leads work best. I recommend Hamlin DRR-129 Standard.

Additional Notes:

To protect your reed switch use a 90-110v neon bulb across connections 1&2. The neon bulb can take a small amount of charge so you may want to remove it for accurate measurement testing.

Reed contacts may weld together that will short the circuit and heat your coil.. Do not leave this device running overnight or unattended until you understand how it works and are confident it will run properly.

Feel free to ask further questions and please post your COP results.

Energetically,

Ecoman

[sucahyo]

1. a reed switch is turned on (contacts closed) by an opposing north pole on the outer coil.
2. a current is triggered into the coil
3. the south pole on top of the coil turns the reed switch off (contacts open).

This sequence is repeated in milliseconds causing the reed contacts to flutter, this will determine the frequency rate.

Interesting .

I don't have resource to replicate but I think I prefer to use the reed switch to drive a NPN transistor. If the current still to high we can use resistor in series with the reedswitch. Less load for the reed switch, reduce weld chances, allow bigger current and hopefully still retain some of reed switch suddenness.

[Ecoman11]

Feel free to expand the circuit but my suggestion is to understand how it works first. It's built simple for a reason.

Ecoman

[Iotayodi]

Reminds me somewhat of a stubblefield coil. Your magnetic fields are marked wrong though. The north is always the exit or output,and the south is the start or input. Your diffusion zone is where the field is the strongest. The reed switch is just like a vibrator used on old style coils. Low voltage sparking on the reed switch,visible or not,can produce an intense magnetic pulse. A low voltage spark gap has a more intense magnetic field than a high voltage one.The meter and monitor may be picking up on it. That type of field can extend out a great distance. Another thing is the radiant field. With a pulsed dc current a radiant energy field extends out in all directions. This is only when the current is first turned on. If current continues to flow the radiant energy stops. There is no radiant field when turned off.
It seems your collecting the higher voltage spikes from the copper wire as the current collapses.

[Ecoman11]

The best analogy I can give to describe this device is this.

If you play the sound of a HF resonating coil in a classroom, some students may get headaches, some may find it pleasant, while others are not bothered by it at all. If you scratch your nails on the chalkboard producing random frequencies, there's a good chance that most of the students will get a shiver down their spine. Less power, more impact.

In my view, resonating frequencies are powerful, but may be limited to reaching deep inside the vacuum while random or multi-frequencies may tap into different levels. Nature tells us everything.

Ecoman

[gyula]

Hi Ecoman,

Have you come across Ossie's similar work and if yes, have you found similar results like he? (he wrote about a COP of 2 to 8).

Here is a link to his circuit and description in a pdf file:
http://avalonra.altervista.org/secti...y%20system.pdf (click on qui in the opening page)

Thanks for showing this.

EDIT: here is link where Ossie gave additional explanations and scope shots:
A Working Radiant Free Energy System

rgds, Gyula

[Ecoman11]

Hi Ecoman,

Have you come across Ossie's similar work and if yes, have you found similar results like he? (he wrote about a COP of 2 to 8).

Here is a link to his circuit and description in a pdf file:
http://avalonra.altervista.org/secti...y%20system.pdf (click on qui in the opening page)

Thanks for showing this.

EDIT: here is link where Ossie gave additional explanations and scope shots:
A Working Radiant Free Energy System

rgds, Gyula

I've read through his papers and we do have similar concepts only he drives his with a motor and the vibreedo coil is somewhat a solid state device. I can relate to his work because I've come across the same problems where as the reed switch can only handle so much back emf and to capture more you need to increase your load only when the switch is off. That explains his method of using dead batteries in series and in the back end of his charging battery.

When the switch is on, the DC current may only recognize the good charging battery as 12V while when the switch is off the radiant sees all batteries as a load. It could be attracted to the cell plates. I'll have to try that method sometime.

His method works as "pulse-on-pulse" by the magnetic motor switching the initial switch on, then it gets pulsed (sliced) again by the reed creating many more spikes. You can see that by his scope shots. It's a very interesting concept and I wonder if anyone made a replication.

If you have a Bedini motor you can put a vibreedo coil in series (after) your power coil and get the same "pulse-on-pulse" effect.

Ecoman

[Ecoman11]

Today I setup a 2 coil test with the charging battery negative to the primary negative. If I want to measure the system current draw do I include or exclude the charging battery? It might be a silly question but sometimes you need assurance when you see numbers that shouldn't be there.

Which one is proper to measure system current draw?




Ecoman

[sucahyo]

Today I setup a 2 coil test with the charging battery negative to the primary negative. If I want to measure the system current draw do I include or exclude the charging battery? It might be a silly question but sometimes you need assurance when you see numbers that shouldn't be there.

Which one is proper to measure system current draw?

Ecoman

The first one, include the charging battery too. Because even if it connected to source positive, adding load usually draw more current too.

Do the reed switch still oscillating if connected like that?

[gyula]

My understanding is that in your first setup shown the charging bat negative is connected to the primary bat positive via the vibreedo coil hence the charging energy can come only from the collapsing magnetic field energy when the reed switch is OFF.
In your second setup shown the charging bat negative is connected to the primary bat negative, hence a direct charging can also occur, whenever the charge battery has less voltage than the primary bat has (consider here diode forward voltage drop too), regardless of the reed switch. So in this second case the system current draw can be higher than in the first case.

[gmeast]

simple things

Interesting .

I don't have resource to replicate but I think I prefer to use the reed switch to drive a NPN transistor. If the current still to high we can use resistor in series with the reedswitch. Less load for the reed switch, reduce weld chances, allow bigger current and hopefully still retain some of reed switch suddenness.

I love simple things. Fusion energy/power is easy to make. All you need is 'scale or magnitude'. All you need is huge gravitational forces (from size ... scale-magnitude), some time (a long time ... scale-magnitude), raw materials (you wait for that too ... again scale-size-magnitude) and the process starts itself. That's pretty simple.

Now this is simple too ... but I'm not so sure you would want to take away the power flow through the spark gap at the reed switch. I think the spark gap is very important. I think Tesla would agree with the 'special' effects of a spark gap. Wouldn't it be interesting to see if Tesla's innovations would have taken a different path if solid state devices existed in his time ?

I vote to keep the spark gap.

greg

[Ecoman11]

I love simple things. Fusion energy/power is easy to make. All you need is 'scale or magnitude'. All you need is huge gravitational forces (from size ... scale-magnitude), some time (a long time ... scale-magnitude), raw materials (you wait for that too ... again scale-size-magnitude) and the process starts itself. That's pretty simple.

Now this is simple too ... but I'm not so sure you would want to take away the power flow through the spark gap at the reed switch. I think the spark gap is very important. I think Tesla would agree with the 'special' effects of a spark gap. Wouldn't it be interesting to see if Tesla's innovations would have taken a different path if solid state devices existed in his time ?

I vote to keep the spark gap.

greg

Of course the spark gap is the prize in this coil but probably the least understood function of devices that utilize them. There's something magical happening between those leads and I'm determined to find out what it is.

So.. It turns out that connecting the negative of the charging battery to the positive of the power source produces a 24v output (at 12v input) and only charges with pure back spike. It's not ideal for charging but it does produce more radiant effects as in lighting bulbs on a single wire (I had a 240V vintage neon going), flashing screens and disconnected batteries charging/discharging to name a few. I had an AV plug on the output for these effects.

For charging batteries the negative of the charging battery must go to the negative of the power source which mixes the conventional energy with the radiant spikes. The input and output is equal at 12V. I also noticed a more robust sound out of the coil get a sense that there is less load on the reed switch which will make it even more efficient.

Here are some amperage rates you can easily achieve.

Draw current vs output to charging battery.

20mAh - 14-18mAh
60mAh - 35-45 mAh
100mAh - 40-60mAh

The more current you run the less efficient it becomes. If you want efficiency just run multiple coils running at 20mah each (remember this circuit is expandable and cheap to make!) or if you want power and fast charging run them at 100mah. I know this circuit produces more system power because your system COP will be higher then your input vs output numbers. The lowest system COP I recorded was .74 (from earlier tests) and the best I'll leave for others to post on here.

I'll update the circuit image.

Ecoman

[Farmhand]

Ecoman11,

Good work. Very interesting arrangement. Those are excelent drawings too.

Draw current vs output to charging battery.

20mAh - 14-18mAh
60mAh - 35-45 mAh
100mAh - 40-60mAh

Measuring C.O.P. on a system using batteries is almost impossible in my opinion. You would need to complete a charge cycle and average stuff and what not, hardly worth it unless the C.O.P. is obviously over 1 to 1.

What was the state of charge of the two batteries at begining and end of experiment?

Have you managed a complete charge cycle, as in charge one battery from 11.8 volts to 14.4 volts (12.6v resting afterwards) with the other battery?

What happens if you connect the charging battery negative to the source battery negative with the vibreedo coil in between as you described, when the charging battery is very low volts like 11.2v and the source battery is 13.3v ?

A sytem that can't charge it's batteries fully to at least 13.8v under charge will not be much use, if it can do that I will build one for charging batteries.

I really like the principal, is there other ways it can be used such as for lights like you say, i'm interested in the lighting aspects of such a curious thing, thats for sure. I can think of other uses as well in combination with other devices. I would hope you want us to experiment in many different ways with this little Gem. I would love to see the waveforms from it.

Thanks for sharing.

Regards
Farmhand

[Ecoman11]

@Farmhand

System and battery COP are measured separately and I've been using the SSG datasheet for calculations. It's not entirely accurate but here is one reason why I believe this coil is preforming better then I can measure.

The coils amperage will always fluctuate a little which can range from 10-20mAh (5-10mAh if you get the balance right). So if the current draw fluctuates from 60-80mAh, I always enter around 85 as the draw current which is really more then what's being put in. Yet I still get some amazing results. I'm hoping someone on this forum with a good data logger will build one and post their test results.

As for charging voltage you can charge to 15v (or more) running at the low currents I mentioned. No problems there.

I haven't spent much time playing with output effects but it is limited because frequency control. The scope shots from the video shows the output only (after diode to the positive). The shots were taken from a different design coil but you can see how the spikes flow in waves and some go off the scale at 10v/Div. If I measure the waveform across connection 1 & 2 it's mixed with the conventional energy and doesn't look spectacular. I'm not too concerned about the waveform at the moment rather looking for those tall impulses on the output.


Ecoman

[Farmhand]

Yes now I see, I missed the video sorry, silly me. That is very interesting and I wanna make one, it may take a while though my resources are limited. It does appear to ba a very usefull and simple device, and so I can't help but be curious to it's possibilities. I also hope someone will replicate it. I get the feeling it could be important. Using it in series with SSG sounds interesting aswell.

The picture of your coil in the other thread was a coil of spiraled wire. Is this coil a normal coil? If so I can do that as soon as I get reeds and magnets.

Cheers.