Captret - Perpetual Light with Dead Batteries

[plengo]

I think I have some sort of success. Very impressive how this thing works. Not ALL caps works. You have to play with some until you find the correct one.

Some videos of my experiments: YouTube - Captret replication V1 - Part 1 and YouTube - Captret replication V1 - Part 2 and YouTube - Captret replication V1 - Part 3

Fausto.

[Jbignes5]

Thank you Doc...

Look LED's are forward conducting diodes which emit light. The have a forward voltage drop just like a diode, although it is much higher. LED's can have a Vf of from 1.2 to 4.0 volts and vary with type (i.e. color). A Red may have a Vf range from 1.2 to 1.7 volts and would depend on who and how made. Now when you connect LED's in parallel without a leveling resistor in series (equal value resistors) with each, the lowest Vf is the dominate Vf and no other LED Vf can be greater than the lowest Vf. Also the one with the lowest Vf will draw the greatest current and in most case be the brightest. When you do this all LED's that have a Vf higher than the lowest suffer. Even though most of the time a particular run will be very close, the manufacture specifies a range over which each can very, this is the reason for the series resistors.

Now if for some reason it makes a difference what the resistance for a LED when conducting is; measure the forward voltage Vf, measure the current in series with any one of its legs, If, now derive the resistance, Rf = Vf/If

Thank you very much. I have not done too much work with leds so...

[DrStiffler]

Dumping one cap in to another will probably be 50% efficient at best.

Correct and another point is that the cap that is to dump into the battery requires it be at a voltage higher than the battery or the charge will move from the battery to the cap and discharge the battery.

[Jbignes5]

Hmmm....

Correct and another point is that the cap that is to dump into the battery requires it be at a voltage higher than the battery or the charge will move from the battery to the cap and discharge the battery.

There has to be a way to stack the potentials like batteries or maybe raise the voltage via a coil enough to above the batteries voltage...

[Joit]

Couple Things.

I tried to see, if there is a galvanic effect between the Copper and the Alloy.
Therefor i connected a Iron Wire to the top and then Copper, but no changes.

Another Try was to using again the 12000µF Cap bank as Source instead of the Batterie,
but for the Captret the 47µF.
Now reading Dr Stiffler i remeber, the Voltage at the Cap bank did draw down from 16V to 3,2 standing Voltage at last, where it did stay.
So, i assume, it has something to do with the valve Effect of the Diode,
where the forward Voltage is at about 3,2V.

The other Thing i did, was to make a thumb thick bowl from Alloy foil,
and bound and glued it with tape to the Top from the Cap.
First, Light was bright, but it did draw Voltage.
I made the Ball smaller and now let it run over night,
Voltage still stays, and Led is bright since it is at the Beginning.

So when you wanna have a bright light, put some more Alloy on top.
That brings me to the Relation of Capitor.
When i add more Capacitiy to the outer Hull, it affects the Effect.

So mainly, i think, we got here a Induction into the outer Hull,
what cause a interaction with the inner Alloy or otherwise.
Not sure, if it is from the source, or the spiraled form inside,
because inside the Capacitor there are 2 Flags wounded into a Spiral.
One of them is a bit longer, but pretty at the same lenght are the 2 Connectiions made in.
The excess lenght from one Flag is only turned a few turns more inside.
____________I
____________I___
Between is the Electret.

So either, it inducts from outside to inside, or from inside to outside.
And well, at last, i tried to catch a Signal anywhere around the Circuit,
but could not found one. IT seems for me, it is only pulsed DC
but no AC involved.

My 9 V Batterie now stays since 12h at the same Voltage of 8,79
and not moving, but still giving me some Light with the LED.

--Edit--
Seems may there is a different, what LED you do use, Red Green and Yellow one works
on differnet Voltages Red from 1,6V till up to the White one at ~3,6V
Light-emitting diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Scroll down to Colors and Materials.

[DrStiffler]

Couple Things.

I tried to see, if there is a galvanic effect between the Copper and the Alloy.
Therefor i connected a Iron Wire to the top and then Copper, but no changes.

Another Try was to using again the 12000µF Cap bank as Source instead of the Batterie,
but for the Captret the 47µF.
Now reading Dr Stiffler i remeber, the Voltage at the Cap bank did draw down from 16V to 3,2 standing Voltage at last, where it did stay.
So, i assume, it has something to do with the valve Effect of the Diode,
where the forward Voltage is at about 3,2V.

The other Thing i did, was to make a thumb thick bowl from Alloy foil,
and bound and glued it with tape to the Top from the Cap.
First, Light was bright, but it did draw Voltage.
I made the Ball smaller and now let it run over night,
Voltage still stays, and Led is bright since it is at the Beginning.

So when you wanna have a bright light, put some more Alloy on top.
That brings me to the Relation of Capitor.
When i add more Capacitiy to the outer Hull, it affects the Effect.

So mainly, i think, we got here a Induction into the outer Hull,
what cause a interaction with the inner Alloy or otherwise.
Not sure, if it is from the source, or the spiraled form inside,
because inside the Capacitor there are 2 Flags wounded into a Spiral.
One of them is a bit longer, but pretty at the same lenght are the 2 Connectiions made in.
The excess lenght from one Flag is only turned a few turns more inside.
____________I
____________I___
Between is the Electret.

So either, it inducts from outside to inside, or from inside to outside.
And well, at last, i tried to catch a Signal anywhere around the Circuit,
but could not found one. IT seems for me, it is only pulsed DC
but no AC involved.

My 9 V Batterie now stays since 12h at the same Voltage of 8,79
and not moving, but still giving me some Light with the LED.

--Edit--
Seems may there is a different, what LED you do use, Red Green and Yellow one works
on differnet Voltages Red from 1,6V till up to the White one at ~3,6V
Light-emitting diode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Scroll down to Colors and Materials.

@All
Looking at Plego's vids I see he has some meters with 4 or more decimal places and would like to say something about measurements. Only go to two decimal places, all the rest is fluff. Also look at your meter specs and see what the resolution is; in other words the meters will have an accuracy and a resolution in digits of accuracy. Lets assume your meter is at STP and it is a + or - 1 digit for 2% accuracy, so you can range from +/- 2% and then vary +/- 1 digit. So ignore the fluff find if your meter is telling you the truth or you are seeing only normal fluctuation. As I stated and stated in the finished web page, the temperature of the LED changes and the Vf changes which has a resulting drop in If, nothing unknown here, just watch both Vf and If over time and you can plot a graph that shows the relation.

A capacitor if it is pre-charged will dump the excess to where? It will only pass thru the LED based on the LED's forward If which is a function of its Rf.

If the capacitor is not charged at first it will pull an initial charge from the battery limited only by the phantom diodes forward resistance and this value varies up and down.

Measure you LED light output and you will see that it goes down alone with the circuit current.

[Jbignes5]

An important discovery.

As I play with this setup I am discovering that the more caps you put in parallel the stronger the leds light. I doubt it matters what size the caps are because I have a good mix of rather large caps and as the caps charge up the battery recovers back to the level they were before the addition of the new caps. I have 5 leds now lit so brightly that I can not look at them for too long directly. I think the caps are little current pools. which we are using to create a stronger potential difference between the two polarities of the caps.

I think we are creating the first inductive charge pump that works from potential only. I am about to test for current again and I'll let you know in an edit of this all the particulars.

The setup I now have is 5 caps all in parallel.

2- 820 uf 200v
2- 470 uf 200v
1- 220 uf 200v

the battery started at 10.2 this morning it is now at 10.06 because of all the additions but it is going up. the leds are running at 2.81v between the leads of the cap bank and the whole circuit reports 17.2ma with 5 leds. 15.5ma with just one.

Even though my current has increased the battery is still gaining in voltage like the circuit isn't even connected at all. There has to be a feed back that we are not seeing maybe this virtual diode is feeding back some potential to the battery somehow. it doesn't seem to add up...

[DrStiffler]

As I play with this setup I am discovering that the more caps you put in parallel the stronger the leds light. I doubt it matters what size the caps are because I have a good mix of rather large caps and as the caps charge up the battery recovers back to the level they were before the addition of the new caps. I have 5 leds now lit so brightly that I can not look at them for too long directly. I think the caps are little current pools. which we are using to create a stronger potential difference between the two polarities of the caps.

I think we are creating the first inductive charge pump that works from potential only. I am about to test for current again and I'll let you know in an edit of this all the particulars.

This is because the Phantom Diode resistance Rp is in parallel with the other Rp's and follows ohms law Rt = 1/ (1/Rp1 +1/Rp2 + 1/Rp3 ...)

[seth]

Thanks Ibpointless for this little thingamijig - seems to have created a lot of excitement

I've been doing a few experiments with this - I was able to light plenty of superbright leds, and i was even able to power a CFL in combination 6 leds on an av plug (all wireless) when i had it wired to my simple slayer exciter (12V battery). Voltage tests on batteries will come later tonight.

Thanks Jbignes5 for some interesting ideas with caps in parallel - i think ill try that too. You have a clear and interesting explanation for the mechanism behind this.

[boguslaw]

IF you have a precise ammeter then I propose to charge capacitor via LED diode and ammeter, measure leaking current if any after fully charged capacitor, then connect another led diode from top of capacitor to minus and check is there is any change in ammeter. The check what is going on when shorting capacitor top with minus (which is supposed to charge capacitor if I correctly remembered)

[DrStiffler]

Thanks Ibpointless for this little thingamijig - seems to have created a lot of excitement

I've been doing a few experiments with this - I was able to light plenty of superbright leds, and i was even able to power a CFL in combination 6 leds on an av plug (all wireless) when i had it wired to my simple slayer exciter (12V battery). Voltage tests on batteries will come later tonight.

Thanks Jbignes5 for some interesting ideas with caps in parallel - i think ill try that too. You have a clear and interesting explanation for the mechanism behind this.

So what kind of scientific data can you provide here? As I see most "Slayer" exciters draw in excess of 100mA and many in the near 1kmA range. So you are trying to say you are able to draw from a 200-500k ohm resistance that amount of current from what kind of power source, 300V or more???

What kind of game are you playing with everyone here??

[Freezer]

I tried the captret, using a 1mF 63v cap, and a green blinking led (lights very dim). After an hour plugged in, the voltage is still slowly climbing. I will leave it be, and see what happens.

[thedude]

still running after 4 hours lighting flourecent light.

Heres is an updated video. Youtube seems to be processing very slow but will edit video link(youtube) there later. My youtube clone Energetictube.com is faster! Yay!

Most of the current readings in my oscilloscope are registering negative current flow to the ignition coil. Now after 4 hours of running my setup as shown in my video there is still no change in the pulse or charge in the primary battery. I've removed the secondary battery to simplify and eliminate the possibility that it was some how feeding the circuit.

My Captret is a 1000uf 25volt cap (pretty big) and I'm getting the impression that the 15watt florescent is not going to stop running, albeit not all that bright.

[broli]

Someone should try the captret on a dead cell phone battery. And leave it be at least 24 hours or more. When you put it back and use the phone you'll have a good indication of how well it "charged" it.

[Jbignes5]

It's the best I can do...

Thanks Ibpointless for this little thingamijig - seems to have created a lot of excitement

I've been doing a few experiments with this - I was able to light plenty of superbright leds, and i was even able to power a CFL in combination 6 leds on an av plug (all wireless) when i had it wired to my simple slayer exciter (12V battery). Voltage tests on batteries will come later tonight.

Thanks Jbignes5 for some interesting ideas with caps in parallel - i think ill try that too. You have a clear and interesting explanation for the mechanism behind this.

My cousin is coming over to help me with the o scope shots. The one problem I am having is that I am seeing the standard ac signal where it should not be. When I set the oscope to .5 us with a .2 volts/cm I am seeing very weird results. Kinda like 5000 little lines all vibrating along the waveform. It seems to me this is not right so I asked my cousin to come over and help me with the o scope he gave me.

If the scope is showing what I think it is showing then there are a lot of things happening in this setup that we are not understanding. When I change the volts per cm to .5 I get a modulated ac waveform that has thick traces that are vibrating. When i zoomed in I could see that there are clear sub lines that are vibrating as well. The further I zoomed in they became faint but I can just barely make out a million little lines acting like strings on a guitar.

I am a noob to the scope but I think I am seeing this and it is not a mistake. I will know more tomorrow when he comes on that part.

As for the additional caps well I wanted to see what the cap had an effect on. It seems that it makes the potential stronger between the plates and can sustain more leds and brighter as well. So I just kept piling them on and low and behold every time i added some it got brighter so I would suspect that the size of the caps has a big effect on the ability to sustain loads.

As we speak even with the higher drain on current that my meter is telling me the battery is coming back to 10.2 volts.

*Tip* When using multiple caps you can always put a small sheet of aluminum foil under the caps. The weight is enough to keep a moderate pressure to hold them on the foil. Then all you need is one clip to the foil and one to the neg of the battery... walla....