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Captret - Perpetual Light with Dead Batteries

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  • Originally posted by rave154 View Post
    Hi,

    i got a variety of caps ranging from 470uF to 1,000uF, all rated to 200V from old PC power supplys from the recycling yard

    i also have twelve 15,000uF caps @ 35V...wondering what i can do with those

    @ electricity, can you tell us what your starting voltage on your battery was...and what its at now?

    Thanks
    Have already started draining the captret battery. I will drain it down to 5v and let rest for 24 hr before recharging.

    I started at 5.8 last charge, took less than 4 hours with 4 x 250v 2200 uf.

    I speculate it's the capacity, so hook up a bank and try. We're all still learning.

    Comment


    • electricity, can you do a more rigorous test on your 9V battery. Charge it conventionally, discharge it through a known load. Charge it with the captret and discharge it to a known load. It might take a while but if possible you can write down voltage every hour or so. I like to do this test myself but currently lack 9 volt rechargeable batteries.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by broli View Post
        electricity, can you do a more rigorous test on your 9V battery. Charge it conventionally, discharge it through a known load. Charge it with the captret and discharge it to a known load. It might take a while but if possible you can write down voltage every hour or so. I like to do this test myself but currently lack 9 volt rechargeable batteries.
        Using Alkaline throw aways.

        may be rave or someone else can do control test.

        I got tons of work waiting, I better get off.

        I'll try and video /document the next charge.

        Thanks all. Had tons of fun, even with PTB, too bad aren't around. Guess I'll try my luck next time.

        Comment


        • Need Circuit help.

          Originally posted by electricity View Post
          This is a Fast Self Charger, Tried, Proven!. Free Energy.

          Materials Needed.

          4 electrolytic capacitors 250v 2200 uf
          1 dead 9 volt battery. Deplete to 5v or less as ibpointless2 had said.

          Strip off film covers on capacitors, bundle together and secure tightly. Wire in series.

          Attach Positive of battery to positive terminal of capacitor bank.

          Attach Negative of battery to right in the center of the four caps, ensure good connection.

          Connect negative terminal of capacitors to anywhere on the casing, bare aluminum exterior, clamp tight.

          Thats it.

          This circuit shows single captret.
          Hi electricity, thanks for the schematic of your charging circuit, but how do I connect everything if I'm using more than one capacitor? Like you recommended four caps to charge the battery quicker, how do I connect them? A diagram would be much appreciated. Thanks.

          Comment


          • Regarding Post #232 and #237

            I think i will do a break from this Topic too,
            I dont have a Problem with it, to stay as Observer
            until the Replys are in a matured Way and not like from
            'some Peoples on a bad Trip'.
            Maybe thats why Energetic Forum is hated from some,
            because some childish Guys could feel the Boots,
            after they could not appreciate a good Treatment,
            what they usual do get from other Members here.

            I only can left a Note here for them.
            http://www.energeticforum.com/forum-...uncements.html
            Theorizer are like High Voltage. A lot hot Air with no Power behind but they are the dead of applied Work and Ideas.

            Comment


            • Yeah...

              For me it is only words. I try to take it with a grain of salt sometimes.

              My whole point is that until we sit down and do the experiments. We need to do the work and observe the results or we will never have an understanding of this. Weather it is statics or Aether it is something we have never even paid attention to. We shoved it off as anomalies or even unwanted junk. We need to start sitting down and focusing on the real in front of our eyes.

              Although this circuit is very very interesting and brings a lot of real observations it is still highly subjective because what we are trying to get a handle on is mostly invisible. Call it what you will it behaves much like static electricity. Seeing that I can run an led on it for quite a long time with no appreciable lowering of the voltage of this very weak battery I am convinced this has only to do with half of what we think electricity is. The potential is what we need to concentrate on if we are to find the key here. Since the original circuit rebounds after being started, back to the starting battery voltage, it shows proof positive this is only using a difference of potential and no current is being passed that would amount to lowering the voltage of that weak battery.

              If we look back at Tesla about mass and how surface area changes the way that mass presents it's potential to the surrounding environment we can certainly figure out that even in this situation the energized plate is presenting it's potential to the second plate (-). If you put a led across the +,- we see that division of potential as it applies to the led. The led also serves the purpose of creating a one way flow between that division. With most of the energy to drive the led is from a weak induction between the plates. If you attach a meter on the negative of the battery and test each post of the cap as the led is running you will see how it works. The led runs off of the induced negative plate lowering the potential of that plate without disturbing the positive plate because they are now both positive but unequal because of the led's consumption of the potential from the negative plate. This is where the flow is coming from for the led.

              Lets look at it like this:

              battery before connection 10.2 v
              battery after connection after balancing (rebound) 10.2 v

              Negative(battery) to cap +, 10.2 v
              negative(battery) to cap -, 8.38 v Solid
              led voltage 1.78v

              actually this is what the voltages are from the cap after the led was removed: from bat- to cap +, 10.20 v
              bat- to cap -, 6.20 v then dives very easy

              So this means after the led conducts across the cap it maintains the flow. Kinda like a whirlpool. weather or not there is an ac signal there is pointless. It's the flow that makes better sense. Follow the flow and you can see what is happening here. By the way adding more caps just increases the flow and that allows for better lighting from the led without using anything but the separation of the potential.
              Last edited by Jbignes5; 11-14-2010, 02:07 AM.

              Comment


              • Here my new findings: Captret - Capacitor and Electret

                I am showing a link simply because the pictures are very big.

                Fausto.

                ************************************************** **************
                I have a new version of Captret that I think will make some not very confortable. Since the theories around has to do with voltage not current and some people seems to be able to replicate this phenomena and others only see the usual, I decided to share my new findings.

                So please no need to flame me. I am only sharing my DATA with no conclusions about why and how it works.

                I connected the circuit as shown on the picture attached. The two caps are identical eletrolitic caps 560uf and 250vdc. Bought on ebay from one nice batch of 15 (cheap too).

                They are connected to two 12 volts lead acid battery of 100amp/h and 70amp/h car batteries. The idea here is not to see if the battery will charge but if they will discharge and at what rate.

                I am using a 25 watt LED (also from ebay) that is lit to subjectively speaking 1/10 of its power and still very bright to the eye. Difficult to look at it.

                Resting voltages totaled 24.8192v steady (since they have been not used for days now). As soon circuit was connected voltage drop to 24.6550v and have being going up steadily. I later started measuring the current in both negative and positive poles of the batteries and surprisingly enough the current consumption is not equal in both sides. Current has stabilized at 3.5ma (one can see the picture notes).

                I measure the temperature of the LED and it is room temperature, feeling cold to the touch. I used an electronic laser meter for the measurement.

                I decided to test another LED of exactly same type (25 watts) and see how much current it would take to light it up to "eye compatible luminosity" and I was not surprised to see it takes at least 200 ma at 20v. It also gets very hot at that power consumption, going to as high as 60 degrees Celsius.

                To me it is very difficult to understand how I can light an LED to that brightness (as seen on the photo) with so little current (under 5ma at 24+volts).


                Fausto.
                ************************************************** ********

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Jbignes5 View Post
                  For me it is only words. I try to take it with a grain of salt sometimes.

                  My whole point is that until we sit down and do the experiments. We need to do the work and observe the results or we will never have an understanding of this. Weather it is statics or Aether it is something we have never even paid attention to. We shoved it off as anomalies or even unwanted junk. We need to start sitting down and focusing on the real in front of our eyes.

                  Although this circuit is very very interesting and brings a lot of real observations it is still highly subjective because what we are trying to get a handle on is mostly invisible. Call it what you will it behaves much like static electricity. Seeing that I can run an led on it for quite a long time with no appreciable lowering of the voltage of this very weak battery I am convinced this has only to do with half of what we think electricity is. The potential is what we need to concentrate on if we are to find the key here. Since the original circuit rebounds after being started, back to the starting battery voltage, it shows proof positive this is only using a difference of potential and no current is being passed that would amount to lowering the voltage of that weak battery.

                  If we look back at Tesla about mass and how surface area changes the way that mass presents it's potential to the surrounding environment we can certainly figure out that even in this situation the energized plate is presenting it's potential to the second plate (-). If you put a led across the +,- we see that division of potential as it applies to the led. The led also serves the purpose of creating a one way flow between that division. With most of the energy to drive the led is from a weak induction between the plates. If you attach a meter on the negative of the battery and test each post of the cap as the led is running you will see how it works. The led runs off of the induced negative plate lowering the potential of that plate without disturbing the positive plate because they are now both positive but unequal because of the led's consumption of the potential from the negative plate. This is where the flow is coming from for the led.

                  Lets look at it like this:

                  battery before connection 10.2 v
                  battery after connection after balancing (rebound) 10.2 v

                  Negative(battery) to cap +, 10.2 v
                  negative(battery) to cap -, 8.38 v Solid
                  led voltage 1.78v

                  actually this is what the voltages are from the cap after the led was removed: from bat- to cap +, 10.20 v
                  bat- to cap -, 6.20 v then dives very easy

                  So this means after the led conducts across the cap it maintains the flow. Kinda like a whirlpool. weather or not there is an ac signal there is pointless. It's the flow that makes better sense. Follow the flow and you can see what is happening here. By the way adding more caps just increases the flow and that allows for better lighting from the led without using anything but the separation of the potential.
                  I really like your explanation. It is as if we just created a diapole that we simply don't kill (aka Bearden) simply because Capacitors don't allow current flow therefore no current gets to the other side of the diapole to kill it.

                  my 2cents.

                  Fausto.
                  Last edited by plengo; 11-14-2010, 03:40 AM.

                  Comment


                  • This is really strange. I am very surprised by what I have found in experimenting with this Captret stuff. Check out my video: YouTube - Testing the Captret: is this free energy?

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by plengo View Post
                      Here my new findings: Captret - Capacitor and Electret

                      I am showing a link simply because the pictures are very big.

                      Fausto.

                      ************************************************** **************
                      I have a new version of Captret that I think will make some not very confortable. Since the theories around has to do with voltage not current and some people seems to be able to replicate this phenomena and others only see the usual, I decided to share my new findings.

                      So please no need to flame me. I am only sharing my DATA with no conclusions about why and how it works.

                      I connected the circuit as shown on the picture attached. The two caps are identical eletrolitic caps 560uf and 250vdc. Bought on ebay from one nice batch of 15 (cheap too).

                      They are connected to two 12 volts lead acid battery of 100amp/h and 70amp/h car batteries. The idea here is not to see if the battery will charge but if they will discharge and at what rate.

                      I am using a 25 watt LED (also from ebay) that is lit to subjectively speaking 1/10 of its power and still very bright to the eye. Difficult to look at it.

                      Resting voltages totaled 24.8192v steady (since they have been not used for days now). As soon circuit was connected voltage drop to 24.6550v and have being going up steadily. I later started measuring the current in both negative and positive poles of the batteries and surprisingly enough the current consumption is not equal in both sides. Current has stabilized at 3.5ma (one can see the picture notes).

                      I measure the temperature of the LED and it is room temperature, feeling cold to the touch. I used an electronic laser meter for the measurement.

                      I decided to test another LED of exactly same type (25 watts) and see how much current it would take to light it up to "eye compatible luminosity" and I was not surprised to see it takes at least 200 ma at 20v. It also gets very hot at that power consumption, going to as high as 60 degrees Celsius.

                      To me it is very difficult to understand how I can light an LED to that brightness (as seen on the photo) with so little current (under 5ma at 24+volts).


                      Fausto.
                      ************************************************** ********

                      Its the captret effect that causes it to run cool.

                      I've notice that my captret circuits run cool, especially the batteries themselves are cold to the touch.
                      All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer

                      Comment


                      • and another interesting relation ship between the input and usable Captret's output.

                        Captret - Capacitor and Electret

                        Fausto.

                        ************************************************** ************
                        I think this thing is very powerfull. Look at this picture. On the right I have one LED in series with the Captrets and the battery.

                        It is fully lit. Running a wopping 1.84ma at 24.80v (pun intended). On the left I have 4 of the exact same LED fully lit (both sides seems to the eye at least same luminosity). The four LEDs are in series.

                        Those LEDs on the left are what the Captret is running for that miserable 1.84ma of input. To me it sounds like the Captret is capable of making an input run four times stronger for the price of one.

                        More voltage is absolutely better. I can run many LEDs at an amazing less than one miliamp fully using this technique.

                        Fausto.
                        ************************************************** ************

                        Comment


                        • I couldn't wait so I just had to try.

                          I made 4 captrets, but the one as "schematic no 2" with the 2 captrets and the regular cap I couldn't get working that well... so only 3 worked right.

                          Also I notice that the LED and + battery connection does not need to go to the capacitor to get the LED to light... no word though on if that helps or hurts the charge effect.

                          First captret using 2 depleted 9v's one was at 8.02 and the other was 7.89. When added together they had 15.88... Also 1 uF at 50 v. (stolen from old TV) with a 3.2 vF white LED.

                          Well, I was tinkering and putting this together and the battery dropped all the way down to 10.23... When I had finished tinkering and just let it sit for a time test, the voltage was 9.18. I was measuring current with 70 wraps of magnetwire around my clamp meter and the circuit was showing nothing.. maybe .01 or so but was not accurate... So how could I loose battery voltage so fast (less then an hour from 15 to 10) without any amps?!.... Anyway, I then let it sit for some time and these are the voltage measurements...
                          9.18
                          8.06
                          8.20
                          (Zzzz goodnight)
                          9.53
                          9.62
                          9.70
                          And climbing...

                          The second captret I used a "supercap" of 4700uF at 25v, and the white LED. MUCH brighter light, but had a visable amp draw when first connected. Using 10 wraps on my amp meter, it read .35 amps at first, and after an hour, went down to .07. So remember, its really .035 amps down to .007 amps.
                          Here are the readings so far, 1 battery.
                          9.17 (.035a)
                          9.10 (.007a)
                          8.96
                          8.93
                          8.96
                          8.94
                          8.82
                          8.66

                          Ok nothing special here I think I may have made it wrong. The visable amp draw should have told me that.

                          Third captret was a .47 uF at 100v with an AMBER led with 1.7 vF.
                          8.83
                          8.82
                          8.81
                          8.79

                          Hm. First circuit is the winner winner chicken dinner because of its rebound, but it still has to pay back its debt of almost 5 whole volts.

                          Maybe my next step is to remove the LED and try chaining the caps in series or parallel. I think Lasersaber had them in series, O to - , and at the end his + went back to the battery +. "Electricity" is advising to hook them in parallel and combine the - and O. In my opinion which is worth less then 2 cents, I think by combining the - and O would only do to increase the surface area of the - and maybe increase capacitance a little... But I will try it anyway.


                          Heres a good source of capacitors and LEDs... Disposable flash cameras! Go to your local CVS or Rite Aid or convenience store that takes those disposable cameras. Ask them if you can help the environment by helping the store recycle their old cameras. I usually walk out of the store with a huge trash bag full of old cameras each time.

                          Inside each camera is the following JUICY technology...
                          Fancy HV transformer trifilar,
                          Fancy HV transformer like a car coil but smaller,
                          A red LED
                          A WHOLE AA battery! (Usually full too!)
                          transistors, diodes...
                          Large Cap from 80-300 uF and usually 300-400 V.
                          other stuff...

                          Its basically an oscillator.

                          If the helpful person taking your request is fearful of doing the "right thing" and dosn't want to get in trouble with their boss by giving stuff away, and summons the boss, this is what you do. The boss might say something like the camera place recycles them for the store, or something, but its all hogwash. Just tell him its for a "science project" on saving the ecology and creating light from waste. Maybe take the whole "green" movement and use similar verbology. Even when I got the hard line boss, I was atleast able to walk out with 1 camera. I never was turned down. My best haul was over 50 cameras... Filled my car full of them!

                          Now I have a huge bag of caps and batteries!

                          ------------
                          Ok one question.
                          I have those 550 farad super caps that I would love to try but they have no O hookup. you think it would be the same if I just added foil around the outside? I probibly need an electrolyte to make it work right... Anyway..
                          Last edited by CosmicFarmer; 11-14-2010, 07:53 AM.

                          Comment


                          • People in this are stupid (in a way)

                            It is impossible to get a battery to charge itself with these conditions of circuitry. It is more volt feedback than current feedback that supposedly 'charges' the cell, if you hook this to an oscilliscope, or prove in a way that this is oscillating, then the battery would use current to 'bump' up voltage. IPPOINTLESS, try to switch your multimeter to amp draw, then you would realise how much energy a run down 9 volt has. A run down 9 volt has MAhours but not alot of current. This circuit draws mA so the cell will last longer.

                            Comment


                            • To make a good captret the higer the farads and the voltage the better, but too high and you'll results you don't want.

                              Not every capacitor works, you've got to find one that does.
                              All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer

                              Comment


                              • Today i'm going to see if i can build a radio shack captret circuit of my one that self charges from the standing point. I figure if i get the right parts then people could easily make it and only thing they'll need to do is just go to their local radio shack. Hopefully this make the disbelievers into believers. Simpler the better, i'm going to make it very simple for any one to make.
                                All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer

                                Comment

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