Captret - Perpetual Light with Dead Batteries

[SL3]

Same Metal

IB -- Fascinating research. Thanks!

Just a thought on it: There's no reason Casimir Effect cannot relate to this. It is normally found at micron and nanometer distances between same electrodes and exists in capacitors, also. But, water is a very unique substance and lattice capable of amplification and extension of signals. When you're dealing with water and finding energy coming from it, it's generally best to start breaking away from the conventional world of physics we know. Water is like a portal to the other side and into the Ether. If you take water from a source -- such as a spring -- and split it, and take those two ounces all about the world...those are very unique, highly efficient, antenna able to conduct signals between them at beyond light speed through basically teleportation of signals through the Ether.

Study your water and same plates further. If you put a data logger to it for 2 weeks or take readings at the same time each evening....chart that data in relation to the waxing and waning of the Moon. You will find that water is always more active in the moonlight. More vital. More alive. More viscous. As the new moon comes, the water dies out. And thus the nature of your "electrolyte" there also changes with the Moon. But, as in crystal power cells, you are dealing more with lattice issues and detection of jitter from the Ether more so than electrolytic issues and galvanism.

Consider the sum of Casimir Effect within the lattice between the same rods, and then you can see how the voltage normally between two close plates can be present at greater distances due to amplification and maintenance of the signal.

Never think man knows all there is to know of water. It always has infinite mysteries to further explore. It remembers. It burns and makes fire. It quenches fire and cools. It freezes. It can fracture mountains or condense and shape them. And two drops descendant from one are the same portal a universe away while two drops pressed into one can tap into a universe of energy.

Enjoy!

[SL3]

one more thing

Aside from my talk of a Faraday Cage composed by the capacitor can, consider that it also serves as an electromagnetic cavity resonator, and so every cap is going to have natural frequencies. I suspect you will nicely find additional over-unity when the applied frequency off a function generator & transistor equal the natural frequency of the resonator.

[Lajdva]

Measuring

Hi Guys,
This is my official first post on the energeticforum even I am a member for several mounts (shame ). I have a question about measuring of Captret.

I have seen this video YouTube - ibpointless2's Channel about amplifying and I was wondering if anybody would have same result with analog meter. Digital meters has baterry and therefore measurement could be confusing because nobody probably every thing about this "non by the book" properties of capacitors.


I know only one thing, everything seems to work. I test that today.

Thanks for reply

[ibpointless2]

Hi Guys,
This is my official first post on the energeticforum even I am a member for several mounts (shame ). I have a question about measuring of Captret.

I have seen this video YouTube - ibpointless2's Channel about amplifying and I was wondering if anybody would have same result with analog meter. Digital meters has baterry and therefore measurement could be confusing because nobody probably every thing about this "non by the book" properties of capacitors.


I know only one thing, everything seems to work. I test that today.

Thanks for reply

Hello,

The amplifying of the voltage was due to the effect that I'm studying now, when the same metals are put in a dielectric material they produce power. Since the capacitor is all aluminum including the case and the plates I was able to use that small amount of voltage to increase the total voltage. So You can think of the voltage increase was due to the fact that the same metals in a dielectric make a battery and I put that battery in series with the AA battery and measure the voltage of the two "batteries" in series and I have a higher voltage. Not to be confused with putting a AA battery in series with the + and - of the capacitor, I'm adding the natural voltage that is created when two of the same metals are placed in dielectric material.

As to where the voltage comes from when two of the same metals placed in a dielectric materials is coming from I don't know yet.

As for using a analog meter I've found it should not matter, from my test a digital meter will drain a capacitor. The battery being there is not a problem because most analog multimeter also use a battery too.

[bugler]

ibpointless2 you finally reached the conclusion that the captret was a sort of thermocouple.

You did some experiments with water capacitors.

I was thinking that maybe it would be possible to make a captret using the materials used in a capacitor (not the water one but the standard capacitor) to extrat electricity from the Sun).
Do you know how to make a big captret with metals? Could you make a drawing of it?
Would the water captret work better?
Do you think the captret would be an efficient thermocouple?

Thanks.

[ibpointless2]

ibpointless2 you finally reached the conclusion that the captret was a sort of thermocouple.

You did some experiments with water capacitors.

I was thinking that maybe it would be possible to make a captret using the materials used in a capacitor (not the water one but the standard capacitor) to extrat electricity from the Sun).
Do you know how to make a big captret with metals? Could you make a drawing of it?
Would the water captret work better?
Do you think the captret would be an efficient thermocouple?

Thanks.

Hello the water captret was to study the effect more and get a better understanding. All electronic components are affected by heat and pressure so the main reason for the power in the captret was not from heat energy. The Main reason for the extra energy has to do with the dielectric materials will create voltage. But I and many others have played with the idea of a solar panel made of capacitor. We found out that the cheap ceramic capacitors that no one really wants because of them being affected by heat could be use to collect solar energy. Paint the capacitors black and put a spark gap on them and have the charge a battery heres a link for more on the idea Captret - Capacitor and Electret

[stevecmagni1]

Stevec

I just ran a test using a crystal oscillator powered by the captret and the output was interesting. The current draw on the system was 1.1ma using a 9v battery with 8.15 volts showing. A 47uf 50v cap was used with this test. The output of the 1Mhz crystal was about 9 volts. I added a coil tuned for the chip and the voltage jumped to 15.5 volts at the open lead of the coil.

The same captret configuration powering Dr. Stifflers Sec18 uses .8 ma and produces 38 volts on the output coil.

It would seem you can produce a reasonable low power signal oscillator to drive more LED's or charge external caps with the same low input. The captret provides a nice stable voltage/current regulator for driving other projects.

I also used some UV LED's to see if they would power some tiny solar cells, they did produce aroud 4 volts of output at the cell but the current was very low at around .1ma while the captret circuit was running at around 2ma driving those LED's. Pretty poor efficiency on the UV output but an interesing test none the less. It may take the proper UV LED to actually match the solar cell to produce a reasonable output - all I had available was the bright blue.

Please try and power a Hartley oscillator with it, they run at power levels of micro amps. Great work in working out practical ways to utilise this strange effect.

[stevecmagni1]

Stevec

Hello Ibepointless2.
I was going to read the complete Forum And then post till reading this. And I Just wanted you to know ( I CARE ) and so do a lot of others.So don't give up And THANK YOU. Tec

I CARE as well, well done for finding out some thing really unusual and new from almost nothing. Thanks for persisting to the end, despite the usual arm chair critics.

"Some times when some one knows nothing about a subject, they DON'T know what is impossible to do!" Awesome!

[mcmlxii]

you cant claim overunity because 1 charge = 2 flashes. that would be comparing apples to oranges. you would have to measure the charge going in and compare it to the 2 charges coming out to see if they were a greater energy.

my captret replication increased the voltage on a series of 3 old 3v button batteries from 6.63v to 8.65v over a period of 5 hours. when I took the batteries out of the circuit and loaded them with 1k resistor v dropped to 2.7v in seconds. kinda like the battery was acting like a cap.

It does look like it would light an led for a very long time though.

[rickinva]

Did anyone noticed the same effect when cap + is disconected from the circuit?

I have been experimenting with but do NOT use the plus terminal on the electretcap at all. I have several experiments going.

#1

(1) a Radioshack Ultra High Brightness 10 mm White LED (part # 276-0005) 20 mA 3.5 - 4.0 VDC 28,500mcd intensity

(3) GAA Panasonic 100 VDC 10000 microF capacitors with a part of the metal case exposed to form one terminal of the electretcap and the negative terminal of the capacitor as the second terminal of the electretcap (the positive terminal of the cap is not used at all)

(1) 3 VDC battery holder

(2) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries

The negative of the battery pack is connected to the case of each of the 3 capacitors.

The positive of the battery pack is connected to the positive lead of the LED.

The negative lead of the LED is connected to the negative terminal of each of the 3 capacitors.

The LED is lit so brightly that I can not look directly into it and more than bright enough to read by if used like a pencell flashlight. The voltage across the battery pack has been holding at 2 89 VDC @ 3.59 mA for over 24 hours and the LED has been connected and lit full time for over 3 days now.

#2

(1) Same Radioshack #276-0005 single Ultra High Brightness White LED

(1) Maxwell Technologies BoostCap Type BCAP0010 A08 2600 F 2.5VDC Ultracapacitor with case exposed to form one of the electretcap terminals used.

(1) Radioshack 6 VDC 4 AA battery pack holder

(4) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries

Same exact setup (positive terminal of capacitor unused)

Case of capacitor connected to the negative terminal of the battery pack.

Positive terminal of the battery pack connected to the positive lead of the LED.

Negative lead of the LED connected to the negative terminal of the capacitor.

LED just as bright as in #1 above

8.66 mA and 5.99 VDC across the battery.

#3 I bought a 100 LED flashlight that normally runs on (4) 1.5 VDC AA alkaline batteries.

It comes with a (4) AA battery holder that slips inside the flashlight handle case.

I bored a 1/8" dia hole in the base cap of the flashlight, so (2) 20 AWG insulated wires could exit out of the flashlight case.

I connected one of the two 20 AWG wires to the negative terminal of the battery holder. Then I inserted a piece of plasticized thin cardboard between the negative of the battery (that would have made contact with the negative terminal of the battery pack) and the negative terminal of the battery pack itself (to prevent electrical contact).

Then slipped the exposed end of the second 20 AWG insulated wire between the negative base of that battery and the insulating piece.

And reassembled the flashlight. With the other ends of both 20 AWG wires run outside of the flashlight case, if I turned the switch of the flashlight on, no light was emitted from the 100 LEDs. If I connected the two wire ends together the flashlight lit normally.

Then I connected the wire connected to the negative end of the battery in the battery pack, to the case of (2) Maxwell super capacitors (listed in #2 above) and the negative terminal of the (2) negative terminals of the (2) super capacitors and the flashlight immediately lit up to what appeared to be about 60% +/- of the normal brightness of the flashlight head. I've ordered some more super capacitors and will try to find a combination that produces nearly full intensity of the flashlight.

It is using 15.74 mA but I have no convenient way of measuring the voltage because the positive connections are deep inside the case and I didn't think to run a positive lead outside for measuring purposes.

[aaron5120]

Rikinva, do you think the setup can light the LED flashlight indefinitely? Is there any evidence of self-charging of the ultracaps connected in captret manner?
It is recommended make a control unit in a conventional way, with the batteries connecting the flashlight led directly and compare both system side by side.
Any pictures taken from the setup?
Thank you for replying.

aaron5120

[Nick_Z]

Guys:
It's been a while since I last worked on the captret devices, but I was thinking that they may work even better if a home made cell (battery) were incorporated into the system. Like an activated carbon/Magnesium cell. Or carbon/aluminum cell. My cells are still producing an output even after a couple of years, which can help to maintain the voltages on the regular batteries/capacitors at a higher levels. Which would produce a brighter light from the leds. A couple of cells can produce 2.5 volts or so, and about 10 to 20 mA.
Also using a Lasersaber cross-over type circuit can also be used.
Just some ideas...
Nick_Z

[rickinva]

Rickinva, do you think the setup can light the LED flashlight indefinitely? Is there any evidence of self-charging of the ultracaps connected in captret manner?
It is recommended make a control unit in a conventional way, with the batteries connecting the flashlight led directly and compare both system side by side.
Any pictures taken from the setup?
Thank you for replying.

aaron5120

As for lasting indefinitely, I honestly don't know. Alkaline batteries may eat their way through the casing in time. but the LED has at most a 10,000 hour burn time, so it should burn out in a year and a third/quarter. Whether it will burn out faster, remains to be seen.

I am also using a 12 VDC 5 AH lead acid gel battery that was run down to a little more than 4.5 V under load that has gone down and holding at 3.24 VDC with a 10000 microfarad 100 V capacitor lighting a Ultra Bright 10 mm LED rated at 20 mA 3.5 to 4.0 VDC. The LED is "fairly bright", but no where near full brightness, but holding it own for the past two weeks.

Since I don't use the "capacitor portion" (both positive AND negative terminals) of the Ultracaps (only the negative terminal and the capacitor's case, there is no "charging up" of the capacitor at all. Neither does the setup charge the batteries. In fact, fully charged batteries run down part way and then seem to find a point at which they hold that level of charge.

Regretfully, I don't know any formulas, as yet, that will tell us where that point is. Also, the amount of light you get from your LED/s seems to depend on the size of the capacitor/s being used to serve as the captret (electret cap) and I know of no formulas to determine the ideal size to use for a given LED setup and battery voltage.

I am excited at a new experiment I just started today (so it is a bit early to tell how well it is going to work or for how long).

I bought an "Energizer" potable 8 LED Red (plastic) "Lantern", intended for camping, etc. I cut the black (negative) wire in two, going from the 4 "D" Cell internal battery pack to the little printed circuit board holding the light's on/off switch. I connected the wire part going to the negative base of the battery pack to the case of a 50,000 microfarad 15WVDC capacitor from Capacitor Technologies and the other piece of cut wire (going to the switch pcb) was connected to the capacitor's negative terminal.

To my complete surprise, the unit lit up to the same brightness as it did when the battery pack is connected directly to the switch pcb.

I kept switching back and forth between the capacitor connections and direct connect and for the life of me, I can't see any real difference in amount of brightness (where as all my other experiments showed less light from the LED/s with the capacitor connected verses direct connections of the LED/s and their powering battery/ies. I showed it to two other friends and they couldn't see a light brightness difference either.

So, apparently for the LED setup for this particular portable lantern and this particular 50,000 microfarad capacitor with that particular case surface area, plate structure inside and electrolyte used, it seems to be a perfect match with 6 VDC (4 D size Alkaline batteries). Now all that remains is to see if the voltage holds at a level that will keeps things as they are now. They have been for 4 hours so far.

As for photos of the set ups, I'll do my best to try to take some and post them, IF things seem to keep working.

But for replication purposes:

Connect a wire lead to the case of whatever electrolyte capacitor you want to use as the "captret"/"electret cap" and one to the negative terminal of the capacitor.

Wiring setup:

(1) Connect the capacitor's case lead to the negative terminal of your battery source.

(2) Connect the positive lead of your battery source to the positive lead of whatever LED/s you plan on using.

(3) Finally, connect the capacitor's negative "terminal" lead to the negative lead of the LED/s and say the magic words "Let there be light". And "lo and behold" it will appear.

[aaron5120]

Hi, Rickinva,
I am quite happy you have found a match by accident with this captret thing, applying it to a camping light.
Before you rush to say the circuit extracts energy from somewhere else, please make sure the casing of the cap is not connected with one of its leads, as this is the case of some of the electrolytic caps.
This is quite simple to test out with a multimeter.
If this is not the case, then, my friend, you are into something, maybe.
Anyway, please take a picture of the model number of your Energizer camping lamp, so that we can replicate your setup.
Keep up the good work, my friend.

aaron5120

[rickinva]

Hi, Rickinva,

...

Before you rush to say the circuit extracts energy from somewhere else, please make sure the casing of the cap is not connected with one of its leads, as this is the case of some of the electrolytic caps.
This is quite simple to test out with a multimeter.
If this is not the case, then, my friend, you are into something, maybe.

---

I'll test for that and get back to you.

Anyway, please take a picture of the model number of your Energizer camping lamp, so that we can replicate your setup.


aaron5120

I still can't provide a picture, but here is a link to where I bought it:

Energizer LED Red Folding Lantern-FL452WRH at The Home Depot