Captret - Perpetual Light with Dead Batteries

[electricity]

No more Games

Games??? No games Dr Stiffler. I have no idea why you have taken such a dislike towards me, but i can assure you its not warranted.

Hope this clears things up for the much esteemed post grad

Good luck everyone!!! More data coming soon.

energetic wiki-
Stiffler
v.tr.
1. To interrupt or cut off (the voice, for example).
2. To keep in or hold back; repress: stifled my indignation.
3. To kill by preventing respiration; smother or suffocate.
v.intr.
1. To feel smothered or suffocated by or as if by close confinement in a stuffy room.
2. To die of suffocation.

you got a nice captret. looking forward to the data.

I am having so much fun with this circuit, I will hook one of my utra-captret up to a 200w solar panel tomorrow and dump it to a 12v battery. Lots of possibilities. The key is non linear circuit, we need an open system.

[Artisan]

dV=dQ/C not IR?

Charging a super cap is not as exciting as the LED but tell me what you think about it? below is the diagram of the circuit to use a captret to charge a super cap.

Does anyone know a way to pulse the captret when it gets to a certain voltage?
[ATTACH]6846[/ATTACH]

-------------

Hello,

In response to the flasher circuit diagram, I have had to modify the original Esaki derivative by dropping the resistors and coil all together, in order to confirm that transistor (wired in reverse, base not used) will still perform an 'avalanche' effect with the captret's displacement current. I have also had the "-" and "o" leads swapped incorrectly.

I am happy to report that indeed it does (please see attachment)! The circuit will not run on a single 9V battery as the affect occurs slightly above this. So I attached two 9V batteries in series for approx. 18 V and with this circuit achieved a flash rate of approx. 10-15 Hz. Attaching three 9V (for 27V total) in series and the flash rate was too quick to notice.

I then added another 2n2222 type transistor in series with the first one (not in diagram): Again, the circuit would not trigger at 18V. Re-attaching three 9V in-series however gave a flash rate that was noticeable with the eye!

Note: DO NOT try to play with this circuit without any resistors while connected to a battery traditionally. It will lead to trouble (with exploding transistors and a burnt LED)!

However, as this is displacement current we are using, it appears that the circuit is immune to ohmic heating. I was able to touch all components without any sensation of heat. This also implies that we may experiment with using the flasher circuit (or similar) as a means on 'pulse-supplying' loads that are connected in-parallel with the transistor(s) at a set voltage.

Conclusion: 1) The blink rate appears to be dependent on the supply voltage! = MORE VOLTAGE SPIKES PER SECOND!
2) The circuit will only trigger once the threshold avalanche-voltage is reached.

BTW- Excellent replications everyone. Ibpointless2, amazing discovery!

Cheers,

[seth]

OK - measurements.

With the exciter running a CFL and 6 LEDs powered by a captret (12V lead battery, 100V 330 microfarad cap) the amp draw started at 50 mA and then over 30 mins dropped to less than 10 mA...the lights went out soon after the amps dropped below the range of my multimetre. Didnt last long, as you can see.

The battery was still easily able to light the 3 LEDs on a simple captret (no exciter) after the previous experiment....it seems to be able to do it endlessly, with a real small amp draw. I dont think im seeing anything special with the exciter - it stops working pretty fast, and requires more amps. I'll download a video before tonight.

[ibpointless2]

So i got really strange things happening!

I took my new, but used 2 9 volt batteries and let them sit all day when i went to work. When i got home the voltage on them was 17.17 volts.

So just for fun i hook it up to the captret circuit series one but this time i hooked a 220uF cap in series with the - of the LED, just to see what happens. As you would expect the led gets dim as the capacitor fills up. But the LED never went out because the capacitor stop filling up, this should have not happen. The captret affects other capacitors in series, don't know why?

When i did hook up everything up the captret didn't drop its usually voltage, it stayed at 17.17 volts. So i left it over night so that i could sleep. I woke up this morning to see that the battery now reads 17.19 volts.

What just happen? did it just really charge itself?

I'll leave a diagram of my setup for everyone to copy. I'll keep the circuit going all day to see where it gets me.


Captret that doesn't play by the rules.jpg

[Guruji]

Captret

Hi ibp this is amazing I did this seting on a 9v alkaline battery with 3.33v charge with a 150uf 400v cap and it seems to charge the battery as you've said. Even the cap voltage is going up. Maybe we can charge another battery by the cap voltage.
Thanks again ibp for sharing this is free energy.

[Jbignes5]

Dude...

Games??? No games Dr Stiffler. I have no idea why you have taken such a dislike towards me, but i can assure you its not warranted. Perhaps you misunderstand my claims? My version of slayer's exciter was working on my Captret with a 12V battery, and 35V 10000 microfarad electrolytic cap. I ran it all night whilst i slept, and before i dozed off it was lighting 6 LEDS on an av plug and 1 14 W CFL. When i awoke it was no longer working. I didnt check the current draw as it was my first test with the captret...i plan to do this later tonight. I tried reconnecting the exciter, but it wouldnt work. It needed more amps and the battery was flat.

I checked the amp draw last night when my captret was connected to 3 LEDs in series (and the same 10 000 microfarad 35V cap). I couldnt get a reading on my analogue nor digital - the amp draw was too small. My J.thief reads 10 mA and less with 3 LEDs, but the captret definitely draws much less than the JT. My dead 12V battery started at 10.04, went down to 9.89, and this morning reads 10.00. Its been running 3 superbright LEDs all night, and continues to do so this morning.

Hope this clears things up for the much esteemed post grad

Good luck everyone!!! More data coming soon.

Just use more caps in parallel. It will boost the separation of voltage between the plates of the caps. The more caps you add the stronger voltage between the plates will become. With my 5 leds system I was running 5 caps. But please be careful the transients that come off that junction when disturbed can go way above 3v. I blew 5 diodes all at once in a heart beat just by dropping a clip on the cap rofl...

[Jbignes5]

Since my way doesn't charge....

So i got really strange things happening!

I took my new, but used 2 9 volt batteries and let them sit all day when i went to work. When i got home the voltage on them was 17.17 volts.

So just for fun i hook it up to the captret circuit series one but this time i hooked a 220uF cap in series with the - of the LED, just to see what happens. As you would expect the led gets dim as the capacitor fills up. But the LED never went out because the capacitor stop filling up, this should have not happen. The captret affects other capacitors in series, don't know why?

When i did hook up everything up the captret didn't drop its usually voltage, it stayed at 17.17 volts. So i left it over night so that i could sleep. I woke up this morning to see that the battery now reads 17.19 volts.

What just happen? did it just really charge itself?

I'll leave a diagram of my setup for everyone to copy. I'll keep the circuit going all day to see where it gets me.


[ATTACH]6904[/ATTACH]

I have switched to your double cap setup and are now testing this. After all night running my setup was staying at 10.15 volts. Let me reiterate something about these circuits. They do not consume really anything for current. My battery is an old 12v rechargeable. It is dead for all intense and purposes. It quickly falls even with a regular led used in the normal fashion! This thing is beat and is only at 10.2v max. The way we were running these leds it should have drained the battery overnight. It did not.

I have started with a different battery that is know to be able to go as high as 13 volts. It is another gel cell and is rated at 7ah and will let it sit in the new configuration to see if it gains anything. It has started at 9.10 volts and is using two banks of parallel caps in the configuration you have shown last but no cap on the led.

[ibpointless2]

I have switched to your double cap setup and are now testing this. After all night running my setup was staying at 10.15 volts. Let me reiterate something about these circuits. They do not consume really anything for current. My battery is an old 12v rechargeable. It is dead for all intense and purposes. It quickly falls even with a regular led used in the normal fashion! This thing is beat and is only at 10.2v max. The way we were running these leds it should have drained the battery overnight. It did not.

I have started with a different battery that is know to be able to go as high as 13 volts. It is another gel cell and is rated at 7ah and will let it sit in the new configuration to see if it gains anything. It has started at 9.10 volts and is using two banks of parallel caps in the configuration you have shown last but no cap on the led.

You need to put a cap in series with the - of the LED. The way you have it setup now will only do little good, like make the LED stay brighter for longer but the new effect i'm talking about needs a capacitor in series with the - of the LED.With a 7Ah battery i really don't think you get anything to change, you need smaller amp hour batteries, but if it does work for you let us know!

[electricity]

UFI - Unidentified Flow Induction

So i got really strange things happening!


When i did hook up everything up the captret didn't drop its usually voltage, it stayed at 17.17 volts. So i left it over night so that i could sleep. I woke up this morning to see that the battery now reads 17.19 volts.

What just happen? did it just really charge itself?

Did you read the Journal of Science 1877.

This is all electrochemical effects and production of transverse induced currents in electrolytic by EMF.

@All
Anyone building an ultra-captret with my instructable?

Different electrolytes produces different results, some I can not locate any documented writing.

Too early to make conclusion and avoid the usual classical speculations

Do not modify the circuit, run it just as ibpointless2 had posted, exciter not needed.

[dragon]

I just ran a test using a crystal oscillator powered by the captret and the output was interesting. The current draw on the system was 1.1ma using a 9v battery with 8.15 volts showing. A 47uf 50v cap was used with this test. The output of the 1Mhz crystal was about 9 volts. I added a coil tuned for the chip and the voltage jumped to 15.5 volts at the open lead of the coil.

The same captret configuration powering Dr. Stifflers Sec18 uses .8 ma and produces 38 volts on the output coil.

It would seem you can produce a reasonable low power signal oscillator to drive more LED's or charge external caps with the same low input. The captret provides a nice stable voltage/current regulator for driving other projects.

I also used some UV LED's to see if they would power some tiny solar cells, they did produce aroud 4 volts of output at the cell but the current was very low at around .1ma while the captret circuit was running at around 2ma driving those LED's. Pretty poor efficiency on the UV output but an interesing test none the less. It may take the proper UV LED to actually match the solar cell to produce a reasonable output - all I had available was the bright blue.
________
The Cigar Boss

[Jbignes5]

not working that way.

You need to put a cap in series with the - of the LED. The way you have it setup now will only do little good, like make the LED stay brighter for longer but the new effect i'm talking about needs a capacitor in series with the - of the LED.With a 7Ah battery i really don't think you get anything to change, you need smaller amp hour batteries, but if it does work for you let us know!

When i try to add the cap the led goes out and does not work... But on the other hand the battery is now at 9.3 which is .1v higher then when I started with this battery.

[ibpointless2]

-------------

Hello,

In response to the flasher circuit diagram, I have had to modify the original Esaki derivative by dropping the resistors and coil all together, in order to confirm that transistor (wired in reverse, base not used) will still perform an 'avalanche' effect with the captret's displacement current. I have also had the "-" and "o" leads swapped incorrectly.

I am happy to report that indeed it does (please see attachment)! The circuit will not run on a single 9V battery as the affect occurs slightly above this. So I attached two 9V batteries in series for approx. 18 V and with this circuit achieved a flash rate of approx. 10-15 Hz. Attaching three 9V (for 27V total) in series and the flash rate was too quick to notice.

I then added another 2n2222 type transistor in series with the first one (not in diagram): Again, the circuit would not trigger at 18V. Re-attaching three 9V in-series however gave a flash rate that was noticeable with the eye!

Note: DO NOT try to play with this circuit without any resistors while connected to a battery traditionally. It will lead to trouble (with exploding transistors and a burnt LED)!

However, as this is displacement current we are using, it appears that the circuit is immune to ohmic heating. I was able to touch all components without any sensation of heat. This also implies that we may experiment with using the flasher circuit (or similar) as a means on 'pulse-supplying' loads that are connected in-parallel with the transistor(s) at a set voltage.

Conclusion: 1) The blink rate appears to be dependent on the supply voltage! = MORE VOLTAGE SPIKES PER SECOND!
2) The circuit will only trigger once the threshold avalanche-voltage is reached.

BTW- Excellent replications everyone. Ibpointless2, amazing discovery!

Cheers,

Thanks!

With the flashing i was hoping to get rid of the fading of the led, does the LED look like it is fading? If it is flashing at the right hertz it should stay bright at every flash, or at least that what happens when i tap the LED on and off the circuit. So does the LED go dim for you?

I also noted the circuits don't get hot, they seem very cool to me especially the batteries but that could because its getting colder where i live.

Thank you to everyone for taking the time to try my little captret expirement and for expanding on them. Who knows what great gifts the captret will give us, but so far so good.

[ibpointless2]

When i try to add the cap the led goes out and does not work...

You might need exactly how i have it but if you don't have all the same caps and batteries as i do then just let the LED go out. Watch the capacitor voltage across the + and - to see if it goes down, and once it goes down the LED will come back on. When that happen let it sit.

[Jbignes5]

Oh it is out but....

You might need exactly how i have it but if you don't have all the same caps and batteries as i do then just let the LED go out. Watch the capacitor voltage across the + and - to see if it goes down, and once it goes down the LED will come back on. When that happen let it sit.

The good news is the cap is allowing the battery to charge. Even though the led is not lit it is now charging the battery I am now upto 9.32 volts and this is amazing. A purely passive charging of the battery.

How I have it setup is the quad parallel caps: 2 are 820uf 200 volts and 2 are 470uf 200 volts. When I added the cap (220uf 200v) to the led it created a rebound padding and is reflecting the charge back to the battery now that would normally be used by the led.

The battery I used was a fresh gel cel but was very low on charge. It had 9.2 volts this morning and is now slowly creeping up. The voltage on the battery is now 9.32v.

I think the more caps you put in parallel the strength of the voltage potential gets larger and rebounds better for bigger batteries. I am in the process of finding 220uf caps with anything above 24volts. I will let you know how it goes when I get a fresh setup going with the new caps. For now this is very encouraging that the battery is in new territory of voltage from where it was started at.
Even though this is a bigger battery it seems that I have enough caps in the tank to move the charge in the battery higher. I bet there is a correlation between the tank we use and how well a battery recharges based on size of the battery and size of the tank we use. I will know more when i get a proper setup working with soldered connections.

[rave154]

ibepointless...

if youve got..what you think youve got ( and i hope you do , still doing my own messy tests here btw ).... then boy....is B*dini gonna be pissed ! lol no rotors....no magnets....no spinny-twirly thingies...no coils....lol.....oh boy