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ss tesla w/ ignition coil

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  • #31
    @ kooler

    I did a quick test. Results were not as good as yours. In my test the tube was not very bright considering the current draw. But, this was just a first test to see what would happen.

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    • #32
      on my setup i didn't hook lead 4 to negative rail..
      the leads ess 1 and ess2 i don't no idea what there for.. they hook to the copper sheets that wrap around the outside of the windings..
      my pot is setting on 185 ohm..
      my cap is a 0.56 uf

      i was surprised it lit the cfl being a iron transformer..

      robbie

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      • #33
        @ kooler

        I cut off the ess leads and the lead to the laminations (just to keep things simple). I think yours works better because you are better at tweeking than me.

        The flybacks and ignition coils also have iron laminates. Anything with high voltage or large currents needs iron because ferrite saturates and then does not work well.

        I suspect you are going to be very busy with Christmas for the next few weeks. I will be looking at alternative circuits to see if I can get more voltage out of this transformer. I do not think this is a good circuit for a center tap transformer.

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        • #34
          all my flybacks have ferrite..
          but at 250 ma's and up a flip flop circuit works good.. on the hv transformer..
          i think i will try a 555 chip next.. i got some 850 volt mosfets that need some use.. lol
          might try the two npn transistor inverter type circuit..

          robbie

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          • #35
            Originally posted by kooler View Post
            all my flybacks have ferrite..
            My mistake. Goldmine FB has ferrite core. Thanks for pointing that out.

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            • #36
              u think the old chillyqueen push pull circuit might work good on this..
              the npn pnp circuit..
              i got some old circuits i built .. but they don't seem to work with iron to good just ferrite..
              tweaking is what us mechanics do best..

              i just did not want to discharge caps thru this right now.. it looks easy to fry..

              i'm already tired of christmas.. i bet i wrapped 70 gifts today.. and more to go

              i hate the holidays..

              a little hint for some people out there.. make a transformer out of tempered steel one that holds magnetism.. and discharge a cap thru it as fast as possible.. and you will learn alot..

              xee2
              if you need anything let me know..


              robbie

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              • #37
                @ kooler

                You mean something like this?

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                • #38
                  Interesting cirecuit xee2! Mosfets mixed in with some regular bipolar transistors. You two are having way too much fun with your flybacks - looks like im gonna have to join you

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by seth View Post
                    Interesting cirecuit xee2! Mosfets mixed in with some regular bipolar transistors. You two are having way too much fun with your flybacks - looks like im gonna have to join you
                    Please do. If you know anyone with a non-functioning color TV, you should be able to just unplug the flyback - if they are willing to let you have it. But make sure to discharge the CRT with a screw driver first, the CRT can hold a charge for a long time.

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                    • #40
                      [QUOTE=xee2;121387]@ kooler

                      You mean something like this?

                      /QUOTE]

                      that would probably work..
                      i wonder how well it would work without the fet..
                      i got a bunch of mosfets i could try..

                      robbie

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by xee2 View Post
                        Please do. If you know anyone with a non-functioning color TV, you should be able to just unplug the flyback - if they are willing to let you have it. But make sure to discharge the CRT with a screw driver first, the CRT can hold a charge for a long time.
                        Hi guys!

                        I've already built the flyback transistor circuit you left first of all Xee - i used the same one in my 2 ''jacobs ladder'' vids. Now ive got it connected to a simple brushless homopolar motor that ive made with my tiny neon lamps. It doesnt have a capacitor in the circuit - i just couldnt get it to work with its legs connected to the transistor legs. Everything else is there - even the diode. It'll work on those little 9V alkaline batteries, as well as 12V lead acid. But i dont think the spark is as big as you are getting. I may have the pins wrongly connected - massive arcing between the pins seems to suggest this may be the case. Im using an MJE 13007 with 260ohm resistor, but ill try some more resistors, and i'd love to give the IRF 530/630/730/830 series a go.

                        How do you two judge the output you are getting? Simply by spark length???

                        I ask as it all seems much easier to judge exciter output - just hold a few CFLs close by, and youll see how many you light! But for this i'm just looking at spark length, which doesnt seem adequate. Can i stick a simple load on there?? It lights my xenon fully already. should i try a CFL? Do CFLs work on DC?? So many questions.....sorry so many are very amateurish!

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by seth View Post
                          How do you two judge the output you are getting? Simply by spark length???
                          Looking at the spark gives a lot of information. I have built a high voltage DC voltmeter (not finished yet) to measure the voltages accurately. I will post info when I finish it - but it requires hard to get parts so I do not think anyone can duplicate it. For voltages up to about 10KV you can make a 1000:1 resistor voltage divider if you can get a bunch of 10M one watt resistors. They will usually handle about 1000 volts each. 1M will also work but will suck more power.

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by xee2 View Post
                            Looking at the spark gives a lot of information. I have built a high voltage DC voltmeter (not finished yet) to measure the voltages accurately. I will post info when I finish it - but it requires hard to get parts so I do not think anyone can duplicate it. For voltages up to about 10KV you can make a 1000:1 resistor voltage divider if you can get a bunch of 10M one watt resistors. They will usually handle about 1000 volts each. 1M will also work but will suck more power.
                            Sounds like you got yourself a good plan Xee!

                            I'll just carry on with spark length for judging power.

                            I tried to get my flyback working just with my IRF530 today - no luck at all. Might have to try putting it in with the MJE 13007 as a darlington pair - or is this just plain stupid? I'll try anyway......

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                            • #44
                              @ Seth

                              This worked for me, but not very well. Maybe you will get better results.

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                              • #45
                                My Goldmine flyback died. I do not think it likes input currents over 1 amp.
                                But, I have another.

                                EDIT: It wasn't the flyback, it was the transistor. I have added a heat sink.
                                Last edited by xee2; 12-14-2010, 04:14 PM.

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