Electricity's Watson Machine

[Bizzy]

One advantage of the PM motor over the WF motor was that the PM motor had more torque and much more speed.

At the same time when I was running those tests I posted, I was also testing my coil switches. With the WF motor I was getting upto 3.5 volts. WIth the PM motor I was getting well over 5 volts. I dont recall the exact voltage of the coil switches with the PM and I think my voltage log is water logged(no pun intended) after my workshop flooded. But i do recall the pulse amount was much more, which was caused by the increased speed.
Bizzy

[Bizzy]

minor flood

Good evening
In spite of the minor flood in my basement/laboritory/workshop/wineroom I was able to get my magnets attached / tapped to the metal magnet supports.
Hopefully tomorrow night I can get the holes drilled and the metal mounted.

I also hope to post some pics of my progress using the WF motor. Although I am getting some ideas about using the PM motors.
Bizzy

[Turion]

Bizzy,
Haven't been keeping up with this post. Have been too busy working on my OWN Watson machine.

YouTube - ‪11Turion's Channel‬‏

Couple of ideas for you....I took apart a car alternator, and they have wound rotors and wound stators, just not very good bearings, which should be replaced. With one of them I replaced the rotor with a bolt I had machined. On it I have a plastic disk with permanent neo magnets. It works great, but doesn't have the low end torque I need to run my device. I COULD rewind the rotor, but haven't got around to it yet. This motor is on one end of my shaft, which then runs through my energizer and sticks out the other end. Because it does not have enough low end torque, I put my drill on the back end using a small pulley on both the drill and shaft (with a belt). Once I have spun the thing up to speed with my electric drill, I kick in the motor and it will keep it running without overheating. Almost ANY motor should be able to keep your device running once it is at speed. If not, it has too much weight or too much drag somewhere in the system. I have several DIFFERENT motors I am trying with my energizer.

1.My converted alternator
2.A simple motor (Matt Jones design)
3.A Modified 12 volt DC motor ( per Peter Lindemann in the Lockridge thread)
4.A second Modified DC motor (per Peter Lindemann in the Lockridge thread) which runs on high voltage DC current from capacitors.
5.A Muller type motor based on what's going on in THAT thread

The purpose of the flywheels is to smooth out the pulse from the pulse motor. I have found that the flywheels I had on my energizer were far too heavy, and that it worked FINE with just the four rotors on the shaft.

I have other stuff on my YouTube channel about the Watson/Lockridge device if you have time to check it out.

David Bowling

[Bizzy]

Bizzy,
Haven't been keeping up with this post. Have been too busy working on my OWN Watson machine.

YouTube - ‪11Turion's Channel‬‏

Couple of ideas for you....I took apart a car alternator, and they have wound rotors and wound stators, just not very good bearings, which should be replaced. With one of them I replaced the rotor with a bolt I had machined. On it I have a plastic disk with permanent neo magnets. It works great, but doesn't have the low end torque I need to run my device. I COULD rewind the rotor, but haven't got around to it yet. This motor is on one end of my shaft, which then runs through my energizer and sticks out the other end. Because it does not have enough low end torque, I put my drill on the back end using a small pulley on both the drill and shaft (with a belt). Once I have spun the thing up to speed with my electric drill, I kick in the motor and it will keep it running without overheating. Almost ANY motor should be able to keep your device running once it is at speed. If not, it has too much weight or too much drag somewhere in the system. I have several DIFFERENT motors I am trying with my energizer.

1.My converted alternator
2.A simple motor (Matt Jones design)
3.A Modified 12 volt DC motor ( per Peter Lindemann in the Lockridge thread)
4.A second Modified DC motor (per Peter Lindemann in the Lockridge thread) which runs on high voltage DC current from capacitors.
5.A Muller type motor based on what's going on in THAT thread

The purpose of the flywheels is to smooth out the pulse from the pulse motor. I have found that the flywheels I had on my energizer were far too heavy, and that it worked FINE with just the four rotors on the shaft.

I have other stuff on my YouTube channel about the Watson/Lockridge device if you have time to check it out.

David Bowling

Hi David
I cant use Youtube at work but look forward to checking it out tonight at home.
Yes the flywheel weight was my biggest obsticale to overcome. I had it in my head that it had to be heavy and had to be as far out as possabel. After almost burning out two motors and finally listening to folks here in the forum I realized the weights didnt match the motor, which seems to be the first thing that needs done. The weight needs to be compatable to the motor.
Bizzy

[Bizzy]

Bizzy,
Haven't been keeping up with this post. Have been too busy working on my OWN Watson machine.

YouTube - ‪11Turion's Channel‬‏

Couple of ideas for you....I took apart a car alternator, and they have wound rotors and wound stators, just not very good bearings, which should be replaced. With one of them I replaced the rotor with a bolt I had machined. On it I have a plastic disk with permanent neo magnets. It works great, but doesn't have the low end torque I need to run my device. I COULD rewind the rotor, but haven't got around to it yet. This motor is on one end of my shaft, which then runs through my energizer and sticks out the other end. Because it does not have enough low end torque, I put my drill on the back end using a small pulley on both the drill and shaft (with a belt). Once I have spun the thing up to speed with my electric drill, I kick in the motor and it will keep it running without overheating. Almost ANY motor should be able to keep your device running once it is at speed. If not, it has too much weight or too much drag somewhere in the system. I have several DIFFERENT motors I am trying with my energizer.

1.My converted alternator
2.A simple motor (Matt Jones design)
3.A Modified 12 volt DC motor ( per Peter Lindemann in the Lockridge thread)
4.A second Modified DC motor (per Peter Lindemann in the Lockridge thread) which runs on high voltage DC current from capacitors.
5.A Muller type motor based on what's going on in THAT thread

The purpose of the flywheels is to smooth out the pulse from the pulse motor. I have found that the flywheels I had on my energizer were far too heavy, and that it worked FINE with just the four rotors on the shaft.

I have other stuff on my YouTube channel about the Watson/Lockridge device if you have time to check it out.

David Bowling

Hi again David
I have tried following the Lockridge thread a couple of times and am in the process of reading through it which is obviously very long.

Like I mentioned I will check out your videos tonight but I have some questions in my head so forgive me if you answer them in your videos.
I thought about using a "simple motr" but I thought it wouldnt have enough torque to move the alternator enough to generate power. Have you had any sucess in that?
Do you have a link to your "modified Motor"?
Thanks gain for your help and patience
Bizzy

[gene gene]

Hi Bizzy, IMHO if as you say the PM motor has more speed than the WF motor, then at shut off it has an unfair advantage for longer continued rotation. If you have the ability to balance RPM's at shut off, you're results would show a better comparison.
Just my 2cents, Gene
Good luck to you

[Bizzy]

Hi Bizzy, IMHO if as you say the PM motor has more speed than the WF motor, then at shut off it has an unfair advantage for longer continued rotation. If you have the ability to balance RPM's at shut off, you're results would show a better comparison.
Just my 2cents, Gene
Good luck to you

Hi Gene,
I didnt think about the speed as a factor that could affect the test only as a result. You are correct that would be a more accurate test.
I have some motor controllers in my workshop i will have to dig out and retest it.
Thanks for your critique
Bizzy

[wrtner]

I took apart a car alternator, and they have wound rotors and wound stators, just not very good bearings...

I would have thought that an alternator would need good bearings.
They are constantly running.

Do you mean an alternator or a starter motor?

[Turion]

Hi again David
I have tried following the Lockridge thread a couple of times and am in the process of reading through it which is obviously very long.

Like I mentioned I will check out your videos tonight but I have some questions in my head so forgive me if you answer them in your videos.
I thought about using a "simple motr" but I thought it wouldnt have enough torque to move the alternator enough to generate power. Have you had any sucess in that?
Do you have a link to your "modified Motor"?
Thanks gain for your help and patience
Bizzy

The simple motor from Matt's design DEFINITELY has enough torque IF you have enough coils on your rotor. I tried it with just one coil, and it was a failure. With two I could barely get it working and things heated up too fast, so I need more coils than that. I need to get busy building coils, which I intend to do this week.

The modified motor is per the design Peter Lindemann came up with on the Lockridge thread. I built two of them. The first runs off of lower voltage and uses two sets of brushes. It is a pm motor. The first set of brushes supplies the power and the second set captures energy produced by the motor. The second motor Is modified the same way, but only uses one set of brushes. It is supplied with high voltage bursts by a cap, and then the energy produced comes back out the same wires during the off cycle and is captured by a cap bank. I think THAT is the best design for any pm motor to be used in a Watson or Lockridge device, which is what that thread is all about. Build the right motor with the right flywheel and the right energizer using the right circuit.

The alternator I was talking about is definitely an alternator and not a starter motor. On one end it has bearings, but on the other end the shaft rotates inside a greased housing. Doesn't sound so great to me. It's a Delco/Remey (sp?) alternator.

[Michelinho]

Hi Turion,

On one end it has bearings, but on the other end the shaft rotates inside a greased housing. Doesn't sound so great to me. It's a Delco/Remey (sp?) alternator.

A Delco-Remi alternator has a roller bearing on the pully side and an encased needle bearing at the back end, not a greased housing. The end of that needle bearing is seen as a chromed cap on the outside.

Here is a picture of one model: CS144 Series Rear Case Needle Bearing

Take care,

Michel

[Turion]

Oops. I stand corrected. I guess I did not look close enough.I did not replace what was there, as it seemed to work just fine. I am still playing with it to see if it is going to give me the torque I need with four magnets on the rotor I made and four sets of coil windings on the stator. (Which gives me a brushless pulsed DC motor) And I have a second one apart I still want to rewind the rotor on. (which gives me a wound rotor and wound stator, but with brushes.)

[Bizzy]

Watson Machine

Hello everyone
I apologize for not posting very much lately it is our busy time of the year, between the Medieval Faires, gardening, wine making, kids and of course work. However I have been able to get some tinkering in during the night and that is the reason why I am posting today.

I am still working on my Watson Machine. In fact to my good furtune my old motor I used for testing my alternators finally died which forced me to buy the motor I actually needed. Once I got it installed under my alternator I was able to produce 37 volts from one set of coils!!
Which moves me to ask three questions


1. Will charging a 12 volt battery with 37 volts hurt it?

2. If charging at 37 volts will hurt the battery how can I reduce the voltage to 12 volts and increase amperage if possable?


3If charging at 37 volts wont hurt the battery will it increase the stored amperage in the battery sooner?

Thanks
Bizzy

[wrtner]

Once I got it installed under my alternator I was able to produce 37 volts from one set of coils!!

The output should be alternating, in some fashion. Is this 37v AC?
With what did you measure it? Do you have an oscilloscope or
even a software scope like "Winscope" ?
Paul-R

[Bizzy]

The output should be alternating, in some fashion. Is this 37v AC?
With what did you measure it? Do you have an oscilloscope or
even a software scope like "Winscope" ?
Paul-R

Hi wrtner
This is 37 volts DC for which I used a multimeter to measure it.
The alternator I built produces AC which I then run through my retifiers to convert it to DC. It is at that point I measured my 37 volts.
Thanks
Bizzy

[wrtner]

Hi wrtner
This is 37 volts DC for which I used a multimeter to measure it.
The alternator I built produces AC which I then run through my retifiers to convert it to DC. It is at that point I measured my 37 volts.
Thanks
Bizzy

Why not run it through a resistive load and measure the volts and amps?