Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[pault]

Ok, got ya. Have you fired her up yet or you going to wait till you get the other brushes mounted.

Yeah, I fired it up for 5-10 seconds http://www.energeticforum.com/127271-post402.html . There's already black marks on the commutators from the arcing, so I won't be firing it up again without the 2nd brushes.

I'll let you modify yours first, you can be my guinea pig . So don't mess it up, lol.

Good plan. I spent most of the day trying different things. Lots of little gotchas:

- the brush casings are mounted using bent lugs, which stick out too much on the bottom to allow you to simply glue the board down - I cut a channel in the main board (slightly wider than the brush casing, to allow tweaking) using a Dremel tool

- the spring pins match up perfectly with the mounting pins, preventing me from just drilling relief holes - I cut the pins off on their own island and will mount them separately in a more convenient place

- The 2nd brush casings, because of the extra layer of board, were too close for comfort to the commutator crimps. Easy solution - pull the brush casings back (out) a bit, the springs will still push the brushes into the commutator.

- I finally epoxied the brush casing islands a moment ago and have to wait for the glue to cure. Will wait until tomorrow to deal with the pins.

After cutting:
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6237/img0101d.jpg
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4186/img0103uq.jpg

Glue drying:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/9357/img0105lj.jpg

pt

[pault]

Heres a peek at the direction I am moving.

Matt,

I see that you are starting it by hand. It might self-start if you line the armature up with the brush "on" position before applying power. In the few tests with my motor, it managed to self-start.

pt

[Matthew Jones]

Ya it will.
I have gotten lucky a couple of times and had it start. But it jumps so hard and all of sudden it seems to startle me every time. So I make sure its off, so my nerves stay calm. LOL

Matt

[Mark]

Pault

Looks good! I can't think of any way to improve on what you did. I dont have a dremel but have been wanting one, looks like I'll have to pick one up.

[pault]

Tins snips work ok, too. I'm not very mechanically minded, so there might be other ways to cut the board.

I used the Dremel (stolen from my son) because I did not want to detach the main board and then deal with how to re-attach it.

I worry that Peter's last posting is mildly worrisome. 12K RPM??? Is a glued-together board going to hold out? [Ah, but he did say unloaded.]

Another thought is that I should just go out and source a chunk of unadulterated epoxy circuit board and cut a new board and graft the brushes and springs to it.

Might be less trouble, except you need to figure out how to affix it to the 4 standoffs after destroying the original fixings.

I'm going with the epoxy glue for now. If it shakes apart, I'll devise a plan B.

Thanks for the encouragement!

pt

[Peter Lindemann]

Lookin' Great!!

5408 is kind of a sluggish diode. I would use a fast one.

No I am not planning on moving my brush's all. The thing has got just about the same amount of power as stock for around 36 watts, half or more of which I am recovering and reusing.

I might rewind it and make it bifilar while firing at each 180 deg point but that's about all I am going to do for now to it.

Add a generator for sure.

Here's a peek at the direction I am moving.
YouTube - Lockridge_Replication.MPG

One thing I forgot and should have waited till I filmed is the heavy electret effect from the capacitors. Once the motor is shut of and the the battery is unhooked form the system the caps will recharge to about 40 volt.
That's always a nice thing to see.

Matt

Matt,

Thanks for posting your test run. It looks very promising. I look forward to seeing a load test.

Thank you for staying with this when people were confused. All of your perseverance and ingenuity is deeply appreciated.

Peter

[Matthew Jones]

Matt,
Thanks for posting your test run. It looks very promising. I look forward to seeing a load test.
Thank you for staying with this when people were confused. All of your perseverance and ingenuity is deeply appreciated.
Peter

It not a problem Peter. The whole thing is applicable to my "Bouncer" project. I am using one of these motors. So worst case I just have a better motor for it. It will be kinda nice to see this thing handle some more voltage.
After the 72 volt load test's I am going to rewind the rotor bifiliar. If that works out I'll be running up to 120 volt if it will handle it. At least try and find the point at which it fails.
Then I gotta look into the generator.

Cheers
Matt

[Matthew Jones]

I have done 4 load tests in 2 configurations.
These are the results from the last 2 tests of each type. All 4 are typical.
Both test are at 72 volt level.

The first test I did, I dumped the discharge voltage in to a cap rectified and did nothing with it. Just let the cap stand.
Each test was 30 minutes of run 1.5 hours of rest.
----First test
The rpms were 3780 average over the 4 times I checked. Beginning, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, end.
The case temperature was 112 deg F at the end.
The amp draw was .65
The start voltage was 75.64 the and voltage in the battery after a rest was 75.17. For a difference of .47

The second test was showed in the movie. What I did was out put my battery power into 3 4700 uf 450 VDC caps in serial. Then I rectified my discharge and put it in the center cap.

---- Second test
The rpms were 3800. Checked 4 times average. All 4 times were 3800.
The case temperature was at 112 deg F at the end.
The amp draw was .5
The the start voltage was 75.17. The end voltage was 74.63. For a difference of .54 volt.

So the test told me my recover is in fact reintroduced back to the system because the amp draw went down and the rpms went up and were more stable as the motor warmed up.
Most likely the extra cost was do to 2 things. A pulse motor consumes more the faster it goes. And Capacitors cost.

I have some more tests planned but I have to get a stable, adjustable load going, and of course still gotta do the pony break on it and a stock motor.

Cheers
Matt

[FRC]

Result

Those results look good. .47 or .54 loss seem pretty good. With a generator
you might get O.U.

FRC

[Peter Lindemann]

Simple Load Test

I have done 4 load tests in 2 configurations.
These are the results from the last 2 tests of each type. All 4 are typical.
Both test are at 72 volt level.

The first test I did, I dumped the discharge voltage in to a cap rectified and did nothing with it. Just let the cap stand.
Each test was 30 minutes of run 1.5 hours of rest.
----First test
The rpms were 3780 average over the 4 times I checked. Beginning, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, end.
The case temperature was 112 deg F at the end.
The amp draw was .65
The start voltage was 75.64 the and voltage in the battery after a rest was 75.17. For a difference of .47

The second test was showed in the movie. What I did was out put my battery power into 3 4700 uf 450 VDC caps in serial. Then I rectified my discharge and put it in the center cap.

---- Second test
The rpms were 3800. Checked 4 times average. All 4 times were 3800.
The case temperature was at 112 deg F at the end.
The amp draw was .5
The the start voltage was 75.17. The end voltage was 74.63. For a difference of .54 volt.

So the test told me my recover is in fact reintroduced back to the system because the amp draw went down and the rpms went up and were more stable as the motor warmed up.
Most likely the extra cost was do to 2 things. A pulse motor consumes more the faster it goes. And Capacitors cost.

I have some more tests planned but I have to get a stable, adjustable load going, and of course still gotta do the pony break on it and a stock motor.

Cheers
Matt

Matt,

The tests you site here are really electric energy recovery tests, not tests that load the motor mechanically. A simple mechanical load test would be to connect your test motor to an identical, unmodified unit, to be turned as a generator. It should produce 24 volts somewhere just below 3000rpm. Just connect a bunch of one amp automotive tail light bulbs as the load. If you connect two in series, that will be a 24 volt x 1 amp load. Additional groups can add 24 watts of load per group. 2 = 48 watts, 3 = 72 watts, etc...

The unmodified motor should be able to act as a generator at between 80-85% efficiency, so its a good place to start with what you have. If you have enough power to light 2 or 3 groups of automotive lights, you can demonstrate the mechanical power gain in your test motor fairly conclusively.

What do you think?

Peter

[Matthew Jones]

Sounds like plan.

The test results that I posted we're just something to give me an idea of the unloaded motor. Also I am trying to use the recovery somewhere. I think I will use it in conjunction with the generator though when I get it going.

I'll keep posting
Matt

[Turion]

My second set of brushes came in, but the caps that hold them won't be here until the 4th of next month, so I am sitting on my thumbs until then. Guess I will have to get busy on some other projects until they get here. Hurry up and wait.

[dragon]

one possible method

Sounds like plan.

The test results that I posted we're just something to give me an idea of the unloaded motor. Also I am trying to use the recovery somewhere. I think I will use it in conjunction with the generator though when I get it going.

I'll keep posting
Matt

Why not put it right back into the system to reduce the draw on the source shown below...
________
Head Shop

[Matthew Jones]

Why not put it right back into the system to reduce the draw on the source shown below...

Thats exactly what I am doing.

But with 72 volt front end and only 36 coming out of the motor you have to divide the power up somewhere and put it in where its at a higher potential.
So serialize 3 caps and put the power back in the center cap.

Matt

[dragon]

hmmm... I was under the impression the voltages were close. Maybe pump the recovery into a coil, "recapture" the collapse - built in boost converter as such. The switch is already there....

I wish I could follow along but I just don't have the funds to buy a motor(s) right now. I'm working on another project from scratch that is related but don't want to detract from what Peter is trying to accomplish with the motors.

For now all I can do is follow along with everyones projects and work on my own design...
________
OLD MAN VIDS