Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[FRC]

Flywheel

I do agree with some of what nofear said and also with N.O.G. I have been thinking of using a much smaller 12v motor and use the larger pault type one
as the generator but with a very large heavy flywheel. I am sure that it would have to be started by hand as N.O.G. mentioned. But that is how the actual
Lockridge device was started manually, so I believe there is something to this.


FRC

[N O G]

Motor functions

Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.
I like the open concept, it does the same thing with less headaches.
- A motor, a flywheel and a generator all on a same shaft.
- The motor is PM with strong magnets on the rotor. Winding on the stator so no need to fiddle around with brushes, arcing and all that jazz. or rewinding..etc
- Capacitor close to the motor with big fat copper wires.
- Switch to dump the Caps load into the stator windings triggered by reed switched or encoder type setup.
- Motor casing could have machined slots to cancel magnetic saturation in iron.
-Generator voltage at least 10 time greater then motor voltage (i.e if motor is 24v the generator output voltage should be at least 240V.
- Cap rating should exceed generator output voltage....example 400V.
All this is in Peter's DVD part2.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

Hi there Nofear
Thanks heaps for your explanation on your views of how this works.The first thing that come to mind after reading your post was an old dual foot pedal sowing machine i used when i was a kid to fix tarps.It had a large flywheel on the side and when you started the machine you had to turn the flywheel by hand than start to push on the two pedals to keep it going.When it got up to full speed you could use one foot then with little effort an sow like a horse out of a paddock.When you came to the end of the sowing run you couldn't stop the thing with out burning your hand which always made me wounder.So one foot would be the motor push down and the other foot is your gen pushing back with the flywheel .This is just how i quickly broke this down in my head.Back to what you wrote , I think this is a good combination to explore ,going to have to get some parts together and see what i can come up with .Here is a motor i just got out of an old paper press roller system that a mate gave me (it made my day). Might carefully take the rotor out and make my own rotor as a starting point .cheers Jason

[pault]

shorting coil tests

I attached a lid from a plastic pail (11.5") to a small 4" flywheel (approx. 500g, about half of what my numbers show for the sweet spot of this motor). I attached 8 3/8" round magnets (neo, similar to those used in the conference 3pm).

I spun this up with 2 batteries (25V tot) and pointed the magnets into the charging coil from the 3pm (looks like 31awg, approx 1000 turns), reed switch for shorting, FWBR to a 10uF cap. The recovery output went through another FWBR into the same cap. When I tweak the reed switch just right (just past the coil, one end pointed 45 deg. towards the magnets), I managed to charge the cap to 105V in 30 seconds.

E = 1/2 x C x V^2 = 0.055 C

My modified motor needs pulses of about 2A (probably more, since 2A is an average) at 30V

I = Q/t => t = Q/I = 0.055/2 = 27.5msec.

It runs best at 3750 RPM = 16msec.

So this contraption generates enough energy for 2 pulses every 30 seconds (27.5 / 16 =~ 2) or 1/15 pulse per second. I need 62.5 pulses per second, so it looks like I would need 937 of these kinds of coils (plus enough disks to hold magnets).

Unless I've goofed up the math (highly possible), it looks like I should be looking at different generators, or at ways to get more charge out of this kind.

Any ideas? What are other people using for generators?

pt

[mbrownn]

Hi, I don’t want to take you off at a tangent, but I think this is something you should consider http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post135454

FRC posted “You should place these posts in the Lockridge thread. I think you might have something here.” But as I said it would be off topic for this thread.

If you could take a look at this and comment I would be most grateful.

Thanks in advance

[goreggie]

3 wire wrap 23 ga

Back at it ,this is 30 turns of 3 wires 23ga magnet wire, one will go to power from battery, the other two with a diode placed in line will prevent battery power from going to them and maybe recovery on all 3..... will keep you up to date
Thanks Peter for the lastest on your newsletter it really helps

[citfta]

Hi Nofear,

In the original device as best understood by Peter the cap was charged through the 300 watts of light bulbs. This reduced the load on the generator so it was not hit with a surge of current load after the motor was pulsed. Also the flywheel is there to keep the speed of the generator stable between pulses from the motor. Therefore there is no need to disconnect the generator from the cap.

Hi Jason.
Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

Hope this helps a little.

Carroll

[Nofear]

Why not just diodes or FWBR coming off the generator to the caps one way ?

FRC

Humm....you would like the generator to be free to spin while the caps are dumping the charge in the motor and also during the subsequent torque transfert (kinetic energy transfert to the fly wheel). In otherwords you need to give the chance to the motor to speed up before connect the caps back to the generator. That lague of time isn't provided by the use of diode..or is it?
Hope I understand your schematic. Let me know if I am making sense.
Thanks

[FRC]

Nofear

Hi Jason.
Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.
I like the open concept, it does the same thing with less headaches.
- A motor, a flywheel and a generator all on a same shaft.
- The motor is PM with strong magnets on the rotor. Winding on the stator so no need to fiddle around with brushes, arcing and all that jazz. or rewinding..etc
- Capacitor close to the motor with big fat copper wires.
- Switch to dump the Caps load into the stator windings triggered by reed switched or encoder type setup.
- Motor casing could have machined slots to cancel magnetic saturation in iron.
-Generator voltage at least 10 time greater then motor voltage (i.e if motor is 24v the generator output voltage should be at least 240V.
- Cap rating should exceed generator output voltage....exemple 400V.
All this is in Peter's DVD part2.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

Why not just diodes or FWBR coming off the generator to the caps one way ?

FRC

[pault]

hex nut for Princess Auto motors

For anyone using the Princess Auto motor that I'm using, with the left-hand thread on the shaft: it turns out that Brafasco stocks left-hand hex nuts - 1/4-20 #FISTE0330005 ($1.46 ea.).

pt

[Nofear]

Hi there everyone
After doing lots of tests with 10,12,16 commutator sections it seems to me that a 20 com would be the best to start with.To get a 10% duty cycle you need 1 com section firing twice per cycle on a 20 com setup.10 com = 20% duty cycle etc. Every time i tried to get over 24 volts i think the current starts to catch up causing feedback to the brushes and no recovery with a duty cycle more than 10% .The motors ive been using = windscreen wiper , radiator fan , boat winch , this is all i could get my hands on at the moment (no spare money) so i'll have to wait . Peter said start with something about 1/2 horse power(373watts) which is spot on i think plus it will have a good set of high current brushes that will put up with high voltage pulses. On a hole these smaller motors preformed very well (good torque) but are limited to 24v when modifications are done to the rotor with minimum recovery from the back spike because of there long duty cycle .Most of the time i just shorted the recovery brushes with a diode and a bulb that didn't light to smooth things out. This is just what ive found with my small setups at the moment .Any thoughts anyone. Jason

Hi Jason.
Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.
I like the open concept, it does the same thing with less headaches.
- A motor, a flywheel and a generator all on a same shaft.
- The motor is PM with strong magnets on the rotor. Winding on the stator so no need to fiddle around with brushes, arcing and all that jazz. or rewinding..etc
- Capacitor close to the motor with big fat copper wires.
- Switch to dump the Caps load into the stator windings triggered by reed switched or encoder type setup.
- Motor casing could have machined slots to cancel magnetic saturation in iron.
-Generator voltage at least 10 time greater then motor voltage (i.e if motor is 24v the generator output voltage should be at least 240V.
- Cap rating should exceed generator output voltage....exemple 400V.
All this is in Peter's DVD part2.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

[N O G]

Food for though

Hi there everyone
After doing lots of tests with 10,12,16 commutator sections it seems to me that a 20 com would be the best to start with.To get a 10% duty cycle you need 1 com section firing twice per cycle on a 20 com setup.10 com = 20% duty cycle etc. Every time i tried to get over 24 volts i think the current starts to catch up causing feedback to the brushes and no recovery with a duty cycle more than 10% .The motors ive been using = windscreen wiper , radiator fan , boat winch , this is all i could get my hands on at the moment (no spare money) so i'll have to wait . Peter said start with something about 1/2 horse power(373watts) which is spot on i think plus it will have a good set of high current brushes that will put up with high voltage pulses. On a hole these smaller motors preformed very well (good torque) but are limited to 24v when modifications are done to the rotor with minimum recovery from the back spike because of there long duty cycle .Most of the time i just shorted the recovery brushes with a diode and a bulb that didn't light to smooth things out. This is just what ive found with my small setups at the moment .Any thoughts anyone. Jason

[Kenowen]

size of field and stator design

One of the things that I just thought of. In a video by, I think it was Norm Wootan, he mentioned that the E. V. Gray motor that the field and stator was of the same weight and winding design. If the two windings and assemblies are different then after the pulse the collapse or BEMF effect will be out of sync. One collapsing more or faster than the other. The difference after one collapses will cause an attraction that reduces the work output. I believe that this is needed to obtain the maximum work from the pulse input.

[modifeye]

thanks for great information

Hey Folks,
Im new to this thread and first let me applaud everyone on the dedication to and sharing of knowledge for this project.
I purchased the Electric Motor Secrets part 2 DVD last week and watched it several times. Peter, thanks for your work and the information in that video, really great stuff.
Matt, thanks for the information you posted, clearing giving those of us just starting out a tremendous boost on getting to where you are. I was going to order parts at the end of last week and im glad I found your post before i did. I hopefully can acquire my parts this week and start joining in the fun.
best of luck to all
Jim

[Robbush]

Update

I have fixed the commutator (polished with emery cloth) and have rewound one coil back on. This time I tried the 3 to each side, but I also switched the crossover top and bottom. This made room for over 100 turns of 24 or 26 ga. wire with an impedance of 2.9 ohms . I will take some pics in a few and add them. I still need to clean up the brushes as the run brushes have some burning and pitting. Also should I put a second coil on the motor or run just one? Peace
rawbush

[pault]

flywheel calculation questions

Would someone check / verify / comment on my calculations below? Am I going about the flywheel estimation correctly? My gut says that a 3" flywheel, 2lb in mass, seems somewhat heavy for a DC motor of this size, but I've never really thought much about flywheels...


My modified motor appears to hit its sweet spot at 36V, 3750 RPM, producing 35 ft-lb/sec. (according to my rube goldberg dynamometer).

From this chart

foot-pound per second to joule per second - power conversion table

I convert 35 ft-lb/sec to 47.454 J/s as the sweet spot.

Using the flywheel calculator

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post132097

I get a few flywheel options:

rpm=3750, mass(oz)=30, diameter (inch)=3, J=47.6
rpm=3750, mass=16, dia=4, J=45
rpm=3750, mass=10.5, dia=5, J=46.3

pt