Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[FRC]

Activity

Finally some activity on this thread. What happened to everyone in the last while ? I still have not got my motor yet. Now I am considering trying an external commutator setup first before modifying the motor, when I do get it.
After seeing your results with the higher voltage Pault, I wonder if the brushes
will be okay in an unmodified at higher voltage. Instead of going to 36v, maybe
aim for 30v max. I have an old 81 Dodge and 94 Dodge Dakota starter that I can
pull the commutators out of. An external commutator setup was the direction
this thread was going at the start. I guess it will be more like the Bedini/Watson
configuration shown at the end of the Lockridge video. I also have a couple 12v small winch motors, but I did not want to mess with them.

FRC

[FRC]

Post # 16

Hi John S

Thoughts on the flywheel could maybe use a flywheel from a car engine - from a scrapyard you should be able to get a good weight of metal at little cost, plus balanced?

Re the extra brushes, I think I will go the same route as you - external, however looking at my gen, at the opposite end to where the brushes are, they looks to be enough room inside to mount a brush arrangement, say an insulated disc with a copper commutator with the brushes wiping over the disc face. There is enough room for the extra wires inside. However external will be easier.
Regards
John

Have not heard from these people in a while either.

FRC

[john_g]

Have not heard from these people in a while either.

FRC

Hi FRC

After getting the DVD's electric motor secrets and the Lockridge device I have sort of gone on hold, needing a coupling made to connect to the flywheel. I thought the way forward was to be an attraction motor - so started building one of those from an old washing machine motor, was surprised at the ammount of drag from the brushes - then it became apparant from this thread that a permanant magnet poles were (maybe) the way forward. I picked up yesterday 4 old washing machine motors, for free!, from an independant repairer, once I open them up I will post up the rotors as this is a lot cheaper than buying a new motor to hack about. Otherwise been busy doing my gravity wheel.
Cheers
John

[FRC]

Thanks John G.

Hi FRC
I picked up yesterday 4 old washing machine motors, for free!, from an independant repairer, once I open them up I will post up the rotors as this is a lot cheaper than buying a new motor to hack about. Otherwise been busy doing my gravity wheel.
Cheers
John

Thanks for the update. I have also been trying to concentrate on one circuit
project I have been doing and getting good results lately, but keep getting sidetracked into other things. There is so much we all want to do and never enough time for it all. Nice to know you are still involved.

George

[everyidea]

Yes, I was at the conference and heard the lecture.

I've been thinking about this for quite a while. I'm no EE, so don't jump all over me, but it seams this could be greatly simplified. What is needed is a pulsed motor, a flywheel and a generator. Why not use a large ring magnet for all three?

Flywheel - A large ring magnet is already a flywheel by having a large hole in the middle, you just need to make a hollow hub for a bearing assembly.

Motor - By using Imoteps Relay switch it is possible to make radiant spikes of 400V to pulse the ring magnet sides, like a simple monopole magnet motor. This switch only requires a very small amount of current to create these pulses.

Generator - Take frayed wires and place the "-" ones on one side and the "+" wires on the other so they cut through the rotating magnet flux and it should generate a current. Connect this to the input of the Imotep switch.

Use a battery to first get the flywheel up to speed then let the switch take over when it's creating enough current in the generator wires.

I think this combines DePlama, Imotep and Faraday ideas.

But, I could be just way off my rocker too..

rw

[n84dafun]

Direct flywheel connection won't work

@pt, Thanks for your test updates and scope shots. Interesting results. Wondering why your recovered voltages are so low. I always get above source voltage.

After trying out directly connecting the flywheel to the shaft I've come to the conclusion that the shaft is a little crooked and will never be smooth spinning, even if the flywheel is well balance, especially if coupled with the generator motor. The best way is probably to link the motors with a bicycle chain and a kids bike wheel for the flywheel. I had to de-grease the inside of the wheel, remove the spring, and bolt the sprocket to the rim. Spins really well and for a long time.

-brian

[Mark]

I have to put this armature aside until I find someone with a lathe (or find plans to modify my wife's sewing machine into a lathe ).

I've got a spare armature.

I'm thinking of winding it with a single coil of 22awg, basically the same as what I've got, but with smaller gauge wire.

Anyone have better suggestions, after viewing the above results?

I only have two magnets (that wrap around almost 180 degrees each with a small gap between them), so I don't think that Matt's mods apply directly to this motor. I have 10 poles - I could try a zig-zag wind, but will it buy me anything and will I need a diode?

pt

Pault,

I dont know how you could use a zig zag wind, that style of wind makes 4 magnet poles for the 4 magnet motors Matt and I are using. Plus you really need a slot number that is divisable by 4. You dont need to use a diode with a motor that has only 2 magnetic poles unless you only wanted it to fire 1 time per revolution. Using the 22awg wires with more wraps should lower your amp draw and raise your output to your caps. Your speed may also be reduced some. I think 22awg may work very well but only testing will tell the story. Good Luck and keep pluggin away

Mark

[Mark]

@pt, Thanks for your test updates and scope shots. Interesting results. Wondering why your recovered voltages are so low. I always get above source voltage.

After trying out directly connecting the flywheel to the shaft I've come to the conclusion that the shaft is a little crooked and will never be smooth spinning, even if the flywheel is well balance, especially if coupled with the generator motor. The best way is probably to link the motors with a bicycle chain and a kids bike wheel for the flywheel. I had to de-grease the inside of the wheel, remove the spring, and bolt the sprocket to the rim. Spins really well and for a long time.

-brian

Interesting setup Brian. What is the diameter of the wheel your using and did you have both the modified and the generator hooked up to your flywheel when you ran your test?

Mark

[n84dafun]

Interesting setup Brian. What is the diameter of the wheel your using and did you have both the modified and the generator hooked up to your flywheel when you ran your test?

Mark

Mark,

The kids wheel diameter is about 12 inches. I didn't even attempt to run my motor with the flywheel because even turning it by hand, I could tell it will fail catastrophically if it were to spin at 6000 RPMs. That's how wobbly it was when I spun it by hand. At least with a wheel and chain it's not rigidly coupled with the motor shaft like it was with the flywheel.

-brian

Here's a picture of the wheel. You can see where I drilled two holes on the sprocket (one hole already has the machine screw in it).

[n84dafun]

Here's what my setup will be. I copied Matt's circuit setup (not mechanical setup) except I don't use FWBR on the output leads, just two diodes, because I have commutator overlap between power brushes and recovery brushes...a FWBR on the output would cause a short circuit on my setup. In other words, the separation between the power brushes and the recovery brushes is less than the two commutator segments that I've connected for the power pulses (two per rev, so 4 segments total). I did this to make sure I get full recovery of the spikes and ensure commutator protection.

I plan on disconnecting the 72 Volt batteries once the system gets up to speed to see what happens!!!

-brian

[Mark]

Hey Brian

In my last post to you I was refering to your bike wheel when I said flywheel, sorry I didn't clarify. Does your kids bike wheel take a small chain that will work with your motor or did you have to get a different sprocket for the bike wheel or the motors? My motors gear wont work with my adult size bike chain.

I like your setup, looks good, keeps us posted on your testing.

Mark

[n84dafun]

Hey Brian

In my last post to you I was refering to your bike wheel when I said flywheel, sorry I didn't clarify. Does your kids bike wheel take a small chain that will work with your motor or did you have to get a different sprocket for the bike wheel or the motors? My motors gear wont work with my adult size bike chain.

I like your setup, looks good, keeps us posted on your testing.

Mark

Mark

You're right! The chain is too big for the sprocket! Back to the drawing board.

-brian

[Mark]

Mark

You're right! The chain is too big for the sprocket! Back to the drawing board.

-brian

Brian,

Here is a wheel for $19.00 plus shipping that has an axle, wheel, tire and correct sprocket. You can also buy the correct chain here also.

Link: Razor E150 (Version 1-5) Chain Drive Rear Wheel Assembly - Pneumatic

[n84dafun]

Brian,

Here is a wheel for $19.00 plus shipping that has an axle, wheel, tire and correct sprocket. You can also buy the correct chain here also.

Link: Razor E150 (Version 1-5) Chain Drive Rear Wheel Assembly - Pneumatic

Mark, Thanks for the link. I'll check around locally also.

Brian

[n84dafun]

Here's what I ended up ordering from McMaster.com. It was a cheaper alternative than the scooter wheel, plus I can use the 4 inch flywheel that I was originally going to use. I can tap the sprocket to screw onto the 3/8-16 threaded rod in the flywheel, and use roller bearings on both ends.

-brian