Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[woopy]

going on

hi all

my progress

if it can helps

YouTube - lockridge test 3 .wmv

good luck at all

Laurent

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi woopy, thanks for sharing those tests and videos. I have a vague idea of how the Lockridge is supposed to work, though did the Lockridge device use capacitors discharging into the coils.
Either way, that seems to be working very well. I still have my air-core motor that I've been running tests on, maybe I'll try capacitor discharging. That capacitor discharge method probably gives a nice flyback effect also, since it is an abrupt pulse. An aspect of Ed Grays motor setup.
Nice work.
peace love light
Tyson

[FRC]

yes

Hi folks, Hi woopy, thanks for sharing those tests and videos. I have a vague idea of how the Lockridge is supposed to work, though did the Lockridge device use capacitors discharging into the coils.
Either way, that seems to be working very well. I still have my air-core motor that I've been running tests on, maybe I'll try capacitor discharging. That capacitor discharge method probably gives a nice flyback effect also, since it is an abrupt pulse. An aspect of Ed Grays motor setup.
Nice work.
peace love light
Tyson

Yes the original Lockridge device did have a capacitor. It was made from layers of copper sheet with old meat wrapping paper in between. This whole assembly was then wrapped around the circumference of the Delco Remy generator keeping the unit compact.

FRC

[SkyWatcher]

Hi frc, thanks for that information, I wonder what kind of microfarad rating the cap was.
Since were talking about this capacitor discharge topic, I recall in a thread, i think it was Peters motor secrets thread. A guy used a 1 microfarad capacitor and tested to see how well he could get a relay to clunk. He progressively raised the voltage to something like 500 volts and he said it almost tore itself apart.
So, I had a relay from radio hacks, the blue 9 volt one and used a microwave capacitor of .95 microfarad-2100volt. I measured the relay coil and it said 500 ohms.
Starting at 12 volts, there was no movement of the relay.
Then using 24 volts, thought i could hear a faint noise of the relay.
36 volts, i could hear it moving slightly.
48 volts, it started to make a little more noise.
60 volts, it clanked quite loudly.
I could only imagine what 120 volts would do.
Isn't this somewhat along the lines of what Ed Gray was doing.
Does it really take much energy to charge up a 1 microfarad cap to 60-120 volts and yet we get the relay clanking away loudly.
Seems worthy of investigation.
peace love light
Tyson

[FRC]

Thanks Skywatcher

The info about the the Lockridge Device capacitor was in the Energy from the Vacuum Series # 14 I think. Your relay info is interesting. I was considering a
relay setup in a cap bank circuit I have been working on for a while now. Your
info helps.

FRC

[Robbush]

I have to put this armature aside until I find someone with a lathe (or find plans to modify my wife's sewing machine into a lathe ).

I've got a spare armature.

I'm thinking of winding it with a single coil of 22awg, basically the same as what I've got, but with smaller gauge wire.

Anyone have better suggestions, after viewing the above results?

I only have two magnets (that wrap around almost 180 degrees each with a small gap between them), so I don't think that Matt's mods apply directly to this motor. I have 10 poles - I could try a zig-zag wind, but will it buy me anything and will I need a diode?

pt

I have a lathe, not a machinist but have been getting better. I would be happy to help you out or any of the others with any lathe work (free as long as it isn't too much work). You can contact me through email or skype user name rawbush

[Tucker]

Same motor

[QUOTE=pault;129805]
2-magnet, one-coil, 10 slot motor, mod'ed for more % pull, as above, added FWBR (UF4007's) across recovery brush.

12V 3,000 RPM, draws 1.7-2A, charges 4700uF cap to 4.49V in a short run

25.34V 4,285 RPM, draws 2A, charges cap to 6.62V

39.00V 6,000 RPM, draws 2.6A, charges cap to 9.28V

38V back-to-back with same unmod'ed motor (flexible shaft coupler + spider) - ran very roughly, drew about 8A, then stopped and smoked. One commutator looks damaged (discoloured gray-green throughout full depth of commutator, slightly mis-shaped and sticks out more than other commutators, probably unusable without lathing)

@Pault

I been experimenting with the same motors, kept wrecking the commutators until I put the same number of spacings between the main brush and the recovery brush as I was using to fire on the main one, this eliminated most of the sparking. To modify the existing motors I didn't want to remove the recovery brush to move it over another space so I ran the motor counter clockwise and changed the recovery positive and negative around.
I also changed the fire position so that it fires when the armature is halfway between the north and south magnets so that you get a strong push and pull on every fire with the firing turned on one extra space into the pull.
The charging is the best I have got so far, with a 35 volt 2200uf cap and a diode on the positive and negative, running at 24 volts and under 1A, it keeps a 12volt 4" diameter trailer LED tail light which has about 10 bright LEDs light brightly with 10 volt measuring on the cap will it is on.
Had it running now for about 3 hours continually with little sparking from the brushes, gets warm but not hot. Power is really good, tried to stop it but burnt my fingers, amps went to little over 3 when I did this.
Have also redone one of my first ones I done with the single spacing which had to much sparking and burnt the commutator and it work great also. I think this one even charges better. I was running 5 computer case fans in parallel hooked to a 16 volt 2200uf cap but after 15 minutes the cap started to smoke so I put 3 of these in series and this worked great. Was running the motor at 36 volts and about 1A.
Going to try to modify a DC brush motor with no permanent magnets just coils to see how well it works, it will probably draw a bit more ampes but the reason is because I have a 32 volt 1/2 horse and a 50 volt 5 horse I would like to convert if it works.

Tucker

[FRC]

Same motor too

This will be the motor I will be using also. Did you rewind the coils ? Or just
reposition the brushes. Your output sounds good. What about charging back into your primary, or even a secondary battery? Thanks Tucker

FRC

[pault]

@Tucker

I'm not sure that I follow what you did in your setup.

How did you wind your coil and what gauge?

Let's say the commutators are numbered 1-10 in the direction of rotation. If the +ve input is wired to #1, is the -ve #6 (directly across)? Which commutator positions are the recovery brushes wired to?

It's my understanding that the sparking comes from the back-spike when the magnetic field in the coil collapses, at the very moment that the main coil disconnects from the power brushes. To "drain" this spike, the recovery brushes need to be at positions #3 and #8, i.e. the coil first touches #1, then moves and straddles #1 and #2, and as soon as the coil is fully on #2 without any connection to #1, the recovery brushes start coming into contact with #1 and catch the spike and drain the sparks. (I hope to draw some diagrams soon )

@all: I've wound armature #2 (22awg, 95 turns) and left some very long leads (coiled around the shaft to keep them out of the way). I hope to measure some results about different commutator / rotor position choices today, with this motor and will report.

pt

[Tucker]

@Pault and FRC

I have one coil of #24 and I just about fill the space, never counted turns. If positive is #1 & 10(2 commutators wide) the negative is #6 & 5(2 commutators give it more power), my recovery is on #4 & 9. The recovery is great and after running it for hour I took it apart and the commutator looks the same as when I put it together not like before where I burnt it after a short while. The commutator I pick to be the one to line up with the #1 brush is very important, I turn the coil so it is half way between the N & S magnet, the commutator that matches the positive brush is #1 and I join #10 with it so I get extra pull, a lot more power. Placing the coil in this position when starting give both a good push and pull right at the start and with the extra commutator #10 used you get extra pull after that. Make sure you check you coil with power so you get the right polarity before you put it together.
With the recovery brush any closer you get a little bit of overlap and this burns the commutator.

Tucker

[pault]

fyi update

I just spent the day running 12/25/38V 5 minute tests in all 5 possible commutator combinations. There are two that are clearly better than the rest. I will post the results and photos when I tabulate them, tomorrow or the day after.

@Tucker: You've got your recovery (4) adjacent to your power (6+5). I think that means that you are shorting 5 with 4 for a while and wasting power (i.e. 4 drains power from power brush 5). I think ...

I hadn't thought of ganging power brushes together, though...

pt

[Tucker]

From Pault: You've got your recovery (4) adjacent to your power (6+5). I think that means that you are shorting 5 with 4 for a while and wasting power (i.e. 4 drains power from power brush 5). I think ...


@Pault
That would only happen if your rotation of your motor was backwards from what it was designed for. If this motor had more commutators than 10 it wouldn't endup so close to the negative, but like I said if it is rotating in the proper direction it works fine. On a 16 commutator motor it #4 would be 3 spaces away form 8&9. If you are using only 1 commutator to fire than 1 space will work but with 2 commutators firing you need 2 spaces to the recovery or it shorts and burns the commutator, wrecking it, as I have done on a few.
Try it, it works extremely well with very little current draw, if it was shorting, the current draw would be a lot higher than 1 amp and the recover wouldn't be very good, it would also over heat and wreck, mine has ran perfect for hours and after examination the commutators look perfect.

[pault]

From Pault: You've got your recovery (4) adjacent to your power (6+5). I think that means that you are shorting 5 with 4 for a while and wasting power (i.e. 4 drains power from power brush 5). I think ...


@Pault
That would only happen if your rotation of your motor was backwards from what it was designed for. If this motor had more commutators than 10 it wouldn't endup so close to the negative, but like I said if it is rotating in the proper direction it works fine. On a 16 commutator motor it #4 would be 3 spaces away form 8&9. If you are using only 1 commutator to fire than 1 space will work but with 2 commutators firing you need 2 spaces to the recovery or it shorts and burns the commutator, wrecking it, as I have done on a few.
Try it, it works extremely well with very little current draw, if it was shorting, the current draw would be a lot higher than 1 amp and the recover wouldn't be very good, it would also over heat and wreck, mine has ran perfect for hours and after examination the commutators look perfect.

@all: Tucker's join date May 2007. Posts 4.

@Tucker: Please post photos of your build. Close-ups of the commutators, the batteries that you're using, etc. I want to see all of the details.

pt

[Tucker]

Thats true I have never had much time to participate but I was really inspired by Peter at the last conference to try this motor. I have been into energy conservation for many year and have been expermenting with devices to take me totally off the grip for some time, including Johns motors. Have sold a few of Johns chargers and use them extensively with the batteries we recycle. Have had many dealings with Rick and truly appreciate what he has done in this area.
I will do some drawings and upload them as some as I can figure that out, have never done that before.

[FRC]

Tucker

That would be greatly appreciated. I don't know a lot about posting drawings or schematics either. Would like to be able to post videos also. Some of the images
and pictures that people post are pretty impressive. You lucky guys, both you
and Pault were at the November conference.

FRC