Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[Matthew Jones]

Gell Cells cause problems when you try to reformat them. Your better off with motorcycle or atv batteries. 24 dollars at walmart. Something with liquid in them.
They can always be conditioned, radiantly, and they hold up to the abuse better.

Matt

[Robbush]

Thanks Mark, ordered 4 to start with.

[Mark]

The coils on my motor did the same thing as you explained. I've been thinking of other ways to wrap it that will get rid of that problem and allow for quite a bit more wire. I have also been looking around for some batteries, my proplem is everyone is charging a $10 core charge per battery. Hope to do some test soon, will keep you all posted.
Peace rawbush

Robush

Here is what I am using they're cheap and shipping is fast. Only $16 a piece.
12 VOLT 5 AH GEL CEL BATTERY | AllElectronics.com

[Robbush]

same issue

The coils on my motor did the same thing as you explained. I've been thinking of other ways to wrap it that will get rid of that problem and allow for quite a bit more wire. I have also been looking around for some batteries, my proplem is everyone is charging a $10 core charge per battery. Hope to do some test soon, will keep you all posted.
Peace rawbush

[pault]

Single winding note

When I wound my armature with a single winding, the result was that one slot was bulked up more than the other (volume-wise, not copper-wise).

The reason is that I slavishly went one turn right of the shaft, one turn left, and so on. I switched sides every time in the same slot. In the end, one slot contains all of the criss-crosses and the other contains none (and, hence, is laid more neatly and has lots of unused room left over).

I would suggest winding the single coil armature with some sort of 1 1/2 turn strategy, if that's possible, to even out the criss-crosses and, maybe getting to pack more turns into the whole thing.

pt

[pault]

...I was woundering if I really need two scales like the video shows, or would a plain spring work?...

I'm no expert, but it seems that one scale is always at 0, so substituting a spring should work.

pt

[Peter Lindemann]

Downloads Available

Hi folks,

You are all doing so well with this, learning what you need to learn in your own way. Keep up all of the great work. Also, my special thanks to Matt, Mark, Brian, Woopy, Pault, and others who are sharing your experimental results. You are all a great inspiration to me and to the Open Source community.

I just wanted to let you know, that the download versions of Electric Motor Secrets, Part 2, are now available, both as a video in WMV format, and as the original PowerPoint Presentation in a PDF file, with all of the slides and original talking notes from the lecture.

Some of you have been waiting for this, and I am sorry it has taken so long. Here is the link:

Free Energy, Products, Books and DVDs

Thank you all, again,
Peter

[Matthew Jones]

I really appreciate your feedback!
....@Matt: I'm not using the stick method (I haven't figured out what it is, yet :-). I'm using the two springs and a strip of leather method. Pull both springs upwards and slow the motor down, then take readings. I think that you are suggesting that I focus on different RPM's and create a graph of the results. Yes? I need better resolution to do this.
I've got an accurate kitchen scale. I'm thinking of weighing it down with some know weight, then rigging the ropes and friction in such a way as to slow the motor down by pulling against the weight on the scale, then read the scale. The amount of weight would be the difference between the starting (no load) and friction weights...
pt

Ya you need to know at what rpm the motor puts out the most amount of torque. For these motor its most likely going to balance out at high rpm rate.
The setup you need to try is like MBrown suggested. Or you can go to wikipedia prony brake and look at the drawing.
Make it real easy on yourself and add coupling on the shaft to make the shaft 1". Make sure the point the motor touch to the end of the stick is 1 ft. If you can it makes the math real simple.

You put this thing on. Then start tightening the bolt until you reach (For instance) 3000 rpms. And you scale may say your pulling 1 lbs. Mark that. Then tighten down to 2500 if you pulling 2 lbs at that point then Mark.
Ect...Ect...
Until you find the greatest amount of pounds for the highest amount of rpms
then you do the math.

Rotary power (in pound-feet per second, lb·ft/s) = 2 x pi × lever length (in feet, ft) × revolutions per second × measured force (in pounds, lbs).

Then figure your input power based on 746 watts per horsepower.

It should be real simple. Except actually building a pony break that works on high rpms.

SO you have another option if you have the parts.

Hook a stock to the modified motor via a flywheel.
If your motor runs 3000 rpms at 72 volt 3 amp (216 watts). Your looking for your generator to make at least 80% or more. Assuming the motor you are using as a generator is 80% efficient you can then do the math on that and tell what your overall performance is.
In this case you will want to slowly build the load onto the generator. These motors at 4500 rpms put out about 60 volt.
If you add some series bulbs to as load, measure the amperage and them how much voltage is left on the poles of the generator you can deduce your total consumption not to RMS standard but close.
So you put 2 series 12 volt 1 amp bulbs on the 60 volt connection and now your pulling 1 amp and you have say 36 volt left on the connection you know the bulb is pulling 24 volt at 1 amp. In reality it won't be so even. But you can add until either the motor cannot push the generator or is at a point that you want to be. 80% or above what your putting in the motor.
This can tell you your horsepower as well.

Now reality the goal is to run this motor off the recovered and generated power. Right??? All the while running some lightbulbs from pure potential.

So the generator is going to have to be a real high voltage low amperage generator. This will work just like the motor on the BEMF scale. We will make alot of voltage and avoid making amperage.
To get the need amperage to run the motor we'll cram this high voltage into a high farad lower voltage capacitor, and then feed it back to the motor.
So why do i add this in?? To show you the output of the motor is only one variable. Once you know how much torque you have then you can design the given generator.

Most of us already have a good result from this motor, we just need to get past the point where we are concentrating on the given output of the motor and get onto building a generator that can convert the motor output to voltage. It does not matter so much that motor is some kind of (I hate the word) Overunity device. That is not really applicable until your are driving the generator. You just need to know how much torque you have available so that we can at some point start designing a generator that will run it.

We need to move ON, if you get my drift.

So do what you can, lets get some numbers and lets get going. So were not sitting around at a conference trying to figure out how some one else did when we couldn't.

Cheers
Matt

[FRC]

pault

Might it not be possible to employ the BEMF to generate a little more "pull" by arranging another coil on the recovery brushes instead of a battery/cap? Then drain the secondary recovery pulse into a set of brushes 2 sections away?

pt

pault this sounds like a very good idea. Do not know if it will work, but if it does,
would be great.

FRC

[Robbush]

prony brake almost set up

I had some time to spend in the garage and got the adapter and pulley done(it had 5 ribs on it that I machined down smooth). I was woundering if I really need two scales like the video shows, or would a plain spring work? I found some spring scales on ebay, the only fish ones I see in the stores are 50lbs. Anyway here are some pics.
Peace rawbush

[pault]

putting BEMF to good use?

When you look at the 'scope shots I posted of the various commutator settings, you see that for one setting, the BEMF is -ve, for two settings the BEMF is +ve and for another the BEMF goes from +ve to -ve (and the last setting simply didn't run).

Might it not be possible to employ the BEMF to generate a little more "pull" by arranging another coil on the recovery brushes instead of a battery/cap? Then drain the secondary recovery pulse into a set of brushes 2 sections away?

pt

[pault]

I really appreciate your feedback!

@Matt: I'm not using the stick method (I haven't figured out what it is, yet :-). I'm using the two springs and a strip of leather method. Pull both springs upwards and slow the motor down, then take readings. I think that you are suggesting that I focus on different RPM's and create a graph of the results. Yes? I need better resolution to do this.

I've got an accurate kitchen scale. I'm thinking of weighing it down with some know weight, then rigging the ropes and friction in such a way as to slow the motor down by pulling against the weight on the scale, then read the scale. The amount of weight would be the difference between the starting (no load) and friction weights...

@Woopy: Thanks for your previous very helpful advice about brushes and lathing of commutators.

I'm not sure if I understand what you are suggesting about two coils. Are you suggesting that we lay two coils into the same set of slots? One going one way and the other going the other way? Then they both fire at the same time? Or two separate coils in the same direction in the same slots? Both of the coils fire in synch at the same time?

My rig has one coil which fires every 180 degrees. In the first orientation, it fires with N in one direction. In the second orientation, the coil is 180 degrees rotated, but the commutators are also reversed, so it fires with N in the same direction as the first time. Bang, 180 degrees turn, commutators reversed, bang. Very simple.

I need to "sleep on" your thoughts about efficiency for a pulsed motor before I can comment/question further...

thanks!

pt

[mbrownn]

Measuring torque

Simple accurate pony break.

Get a 2 foot length of 2x2, drill a hole in the centre the same diameter as your shaft. Make a diagonal cut from one side to the hole. Place a bolt through this split to tighten it on the shaft. A second bolt can be placed on the opposite side to balance the weight.

Once fitted to your shaft adjust the bolt to get the required speed on your motor and read the torque on an accurate electric balance

[Matthew Jones]

....spring fishing scales 0-50lb, lowest reasonable reading 2lb (a 2lb 2oz weight deflects the scale by 2lbs)...
pt

Your doing it wrong. if your using a pony break you need only to attach the scale to the stick at the end. Make sure the motor first freewheels at high speed then start to adjust the brake to make the motor have to work. take it down to a certain RPM then look at the scale for how many pounds are being pulled.

Matt

[woopy]

Wow Pault very good work

I know that Prony brake measurement are difficult and subject to errors. but your average result seems to be good.

My recent experiment with the axial 1 pulse per revolutin motor shows about the same results.

This results in a first wiew is really disappointing, because we wanted the approach of the 200 % as figured in the Peter's DVD if we would have any chance to realise a Lockridge device.

But i am now considering that this result is not so bad at all.

If we consider that the one pulse power has to power the " prony brakes " all arround the 360 degree of the rotation, than if we multipy the "one pulse separately all arround the 360 degree of rotation we can get a much better results.

Or other said if your one pulse is not used all arround the 360 degree of rotation but only some degree (as for instance to hammer-shoot a flywheel) the overall efficiency will be much better.

So for example i decided to add a coil on my basic axial motor. So the 2 coils are independently powered. And the result is that with 1 coil i get a prony brake efficiency of about 35 to 40 % , and with the 2 coils the efficiency increase to 53 % to 60%. So adding COMPLETELY SEPARETED coils ( as if you have 2 separated one pulse motor hooked to the same load) seems to increase strongly the efficiency.

Or other said for 1 coil ( 1 one pulse motor) if we take out the torque on a shorter radial arc, the efficiency on that shorter track is really efficient.

I included here 2 diagrams to explain my point of view
Don't hesitate to discuss that "non conventional" explanation

good luck at all

Laurent