Treadmill DC Motor
Found this literally on the side of the road. DC motor from treadmill. Brushes only touch one commutator at a time. Probably to hard to work with.
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Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann
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Originally posted by FRC View Post"Presently we plan on making a little window motor kit for the Convention, that will be like John (DavHav) or whatever his user name is. It will be a very nice little runner that will be able to be spun up like John B (and this John) showed a few years ago with that will allow itself to be powered for a while on its own charge off a capacitor. This is planned as the one group project beyond a second unrelated group assembly/test project". - Rick Friedrich
This sounds interesting.
FRC
EDIT: I found the quote on the monopole 3 group site.Last edited by Mark; 02-16-2011, 02:40 PM.
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Another Self Runner
"Presently we plan on making a little window motor kit for the Convention, that will be like John (DavHav) or whatever his user name is. It will be a very nice little runner that will be able to be spun up like John B (and this John) showed a few years ago with that will allow itself to be powered for a while on its own charge off a capacitor. This is planned as the one group project beyond a second unrelated group assembly/test project". - Rick Friedrich
This sounds interesting.
FRC
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vidbid
Originally posted by vidbid View PostConverted Bosch Generator, 5,000 RPM, 300W Output, Slotted Case, i.e., case slotted in four places, Four Poles: Two poles for the Motor and two poles for the Generator. Lockridge resided in Boise, Idaho. Generator is constant. Motor was switched. Capacitor was wrapped around the case.
FRC
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Lockridge Device Talked About by John Bedini
Converted Bosch Generator, 5,000 RPM, 300W Output, Slotted Case, i.e., case slotted in four places, Four Poles: Two poles for the Motor and two poles for the Generator. Lockridge resided in Boise, Idaho. Generator is constant. Motor was switched. Capacitor was wrapped around the case.
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what next?
I've got cheap bits and pieces for a hand-held Prony brake like the one shown in Motor Secrets #1, but, I've also got an unmodified motor of the same kind plus a flexible shaft coupler.
If I understood correctly, earlier in the thread, Peter said that either could be used to measure the mechanical power.
Can someone tell me how to set up (and calculate) the back-to-back motor test? That looks physically easier with my gear...
thanks
pt
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questions
1. Why is the first set of 'scope traces so vastly different from the rest?
2. What is causing commutator blackening in the last two cases? The motor is turning in the same direction in all of the runs, hence, hitting the recovery brushes exactly one commutator width away from the power brushes.
3. It looks like the 2nd last case, C8 to C3, is the best, except that it causes some commutator blackening.
Note: I put a FWBR (fast UF4007's) across the recovery brushes outputting to the cap (there is no battery on the recovery side, just the cap).
pt
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continued
IMG_0197:
IMG_0199:
IMG_201:
IMG_0203:
IMG_0205:
IMG_0207:
IMG_209:
IMG_0211:
pt
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continued
IMG_0189: [imageshack rotated this image by 90. The North PM has a black dot on it, the South PM has a white stripe.]
IMG_0179:
IMG_0181:
IMG_183:
[clarification: In photos with two armatures, the one inside the motor casing is the 1st build (18awg) that currently doesn't run. It is shown just to give an idea of the orientation of the winding vs. the magnets (dot is N).]
IMG_0191:
IMG_0193:
IMG_0195:
pt
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Observations re. commutator positions
[I have to break this post up into pieces due to forum constraints]
With my 10-slot, 2PM, 1-coil motor, this is how I number the slots and commutators (looking from the bottom of the motor):
I tried all 5 commutator pairs at 3 different voltages.
pt
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Tucker
That would be greatly appreciated. I don't know a lot about posting drawings or schematics either. Would like to be able to post videos also. Some of the images
and pictures that people post are pretty impressive. You lucky guys, both you
and Pault were at the November conference.
FRC
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Thats true I have never had much time to participate but I was really inspired by Peter at the last conference to try this motor. I have been into energy conservation for many year and have been expermenting with devices to take me totally off the grip for some time, including Johns motors. Have sold a few of Johns chargers and use them extensively with the batteries we recycle. Have had many dealings with Rick and truly appreciate what he has done in this area.
I will do some drawings and upload them as some as I can figure that out, have never done that before.
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Originally posted by Tucker View PostFrom Pault: You've got your recovery (4) adjacent to your power (6+5). I think that means that you are shorting 5 with 4 for a while and wasting power (i.e. 4 drains power from power brush 5). I think ...
@Pault
That would only happen if your rotation of your motor was backwards from what it was designed for. If this motor had more commutators than 10 it wouldn't endup so close to the negative, but like I said if it is rotating in the proper direction it works fine. On a 16 commutator motor it #4 would be 3 spaces away form 8&9. If you are using only 1 commutator to fire than 1 space will work but with 2 commutators firing you need 2 spaces to the recovery or it shorts and burns the commutator, wrecking it, as I have done on a few.
Try it, it works extremely well with very little current draw, if it was shorting, the current draw would be a lot higher than 1 amp and the recover wouldn't be very good, it would also over heat and wreck, mine has ran perfect for hours and after examination the commutators look perfect.
@Tucker: Please post photos of your build. Close-ups of the commutators, the batteries that you're using, etc. I want to see all of the details.
pt
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From Pault: You've got your recovery (4) adjacent to your power (6+5). I think that means that you are shorting 5 with 4 for a while and wasting power (i.e. 4 drains power from power brush 5). I think ...
@Pault
That would only happen if your rotation of your motor was backwards from what it was designed for. If this motor had more commutators than 10 it wouldn't endup so close to the negative, but like I said if it is rotating in the proper direction it works fine. On a 16 commutator motor it #4 would be 3 spaces away form 8&9. If you are using only 1 commutator to fire than 1 space will work but with 2 commutators firing you need 2 spaces to the recovery or it shorts and burns the commutator, wrecking it, as I have done on a few.
Try it, it works extremely well with very little current draw, if it was shorting, the current draw would be a lot higher than 1 amp and the recover wouldn't be very good, it would also over heat and wreck, mine has ran perfect for hours and after examination the commutators look perfect.
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fyi update
I just spent the day running 12/25/38V 5 minute tests in all 5 possible commutator combinations. There are two that are clearly better than the rest. I will post the results and photos when I tabulate them, tomorrow or the day after.
@Tucker: You've got your recovery (4) adjacent to your power (6+5). I think that means that you are shorting 5 with 4 for a while and wasting power (i.e. 4 drains power from power brush 5). I think ...
I hadn't thought of ganging power brushes together, though...
pt
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