Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[Tucker]

@Pault and FRC

I have one coil of #24 and I just about fill the space, never counted turns. If positive is #1 & 10(2 commutators wide) the negative is #6 & 5(2 commutators give it more power), my recovery is on #4 & 9. The recovery is great and after running it for hour I took it apart and the commutator looks the same as when I put it together not like before where I burnt it after a short while. The commutator I pick to be the one to line up with the #1 brush is very important, I turn the coil so it is half way between the N & S magnet, the commutator that matches the positive brush is #1 and I join #10 with it so I get extra pull, a lot more power. Placing the coil in this position when starting give both a good push and pull right at the start and with the extra commutator #10 used you get extra pull after that. Make sure you check you coil with power so you get the right polarity before you put it together.
With the recovery brush any closer you get a little bit of overlap and this burns the commutator.

Tucker

[pault]

@Tucker

I'm not sure that I follow what you did in your setup.

How did you wind your coil and what gauge?

Let's say the commutators are numbered 1-10 in the direction of rotation. If the +ve input is wired to #1, is the -ve #6 (directly across)? Which commutator positions are the recovery brushes wired to?

It's my understanding that the sparking comes from the back-spike when the magnetic field in the coil collapses, at the very moment that the main coil disconnects from the power brushes. To "drain" this spike, the recovery brushes need to be at positions #3 and #8, i.e. the coil first touches #1, then moves and straddles #1 and #2, and as soon as the coil is fully on #2 without any connection to #1, the recovery brushes start coming into contact with #1 and catch the spike and drain the sparks. (I hope to draw some diagrams soon )

@all: I've wound armature #2 (22awg, 95 turns) and left some very long leads (coiled around the shaft to keep them out of the way). I hope to measure some results about different commutator / rotor position choices today, with this motor and will report.

pt

[FRC]

Same motor too

This will be the motor I will be using also. Did you rewind the coils ? Or just
reposition the brushes. Your output sounds good. What about charging back into your primary, or even a secondary battery? Thanks Tucker

FRC

[Tucker]

Same motor

[QUOTE=pault;129805]
2-magnet, one-coil, 10 slot motor, mod'ed for more % pull, as above, added FWBR (UF4007's) across recovery brush.

12V 3,000 RPM, draws 1.7-2A, charges 4700uF cap to 4.49V in a short run

25.34V 4,285 RPM, draws 2A, charges cap to 6.62V

39.00V 6,000 RPM, draws 2.6A, charges cap to 9.28V

38V back-to-back with same unmod'ed motor (flexible shaft coupler + spider) - ran very roughly, drew about 8A, then stopped and smoked. One commutator looks damaged (discoloured gray-green throughout full depth of commutator, slightly mis-shaped and sticks out more than other commutators, probably unusable without lathing)

@Pault

I been experimenting with the same motors, kept wrecking the commutators until I put the same number of spacings between the main brush and the recovery brush as I was using to fire on the main one, this eliminated most of the sparking. To modify the existing motors I didn't want to remove the recovery brush to move it over another space so I ran the motor counter clockwise and changed the recovery positive and negative around.
I also changed the fire position so that it fires when the armature is halfway between the north and south magnets so that you get a strong push and pull on every fire with the firing turned on one extra space into the pull.
The charging is the best I have got so far, with a 35 volt 2200uf cap and a diode on the positive and negative, running at 24 volts and under 1A, it keeps a 12volt 4" diameter trailer LED tail light which has about 10 bright LEDs light brightly with 10 volt measuring on the cap will it is on.
Had it running now for about 3 hours continually with little sparking from the brushes, gets warm but not hot. Power is really good, tried to stop it but burnt my fingers, amps went to little over 3 when I did this.
Have also redone one of my first ones I done with the single spacing which had to much sparking and burnt the commutator and it work great also. I think this one even charges better. I was running 5 computer case fans in parallel hooked to a 16 volt 2200uf cap but after 15 minutes the cap started to smoke so I put 3 of these in series and this worked great. Was running the motor at 36 volts and about 1A.
Going to try to modify a DC brush motor with no permanent magnets just coils to see how well it works, it will probably draw a bit more ampes but the reason is because I have a 32 volt 1/2 horse and a 50 volt 5 horse I would like to convert if it works.

Tucker

[Robbush]

I have to put this armature aside until I find someone with a lathe (or find plans to modify my wife's sewing machine into a lathe ).

I've got a spare armature.

I'm thinking of winding it with a single coil of 22awg, basically the same as what I've got, but with smaller gauge wire.

Anyone have better suggestions, after viewing the above results?

I only have two magnets (that wrap around almost 180 degrees each with a small gap between them), so I don't think that Matt's mods apply directly to this motor. I have 10 poles - I could try a zig-zag wind, but will it buy me anything and will I need a diode?

pt

I have a lathe, not a machinist but have been getting better. I would be happy to help you out or any of the others with any lathe work (free as long as it isn't too much work). You can contact me through email or skype user name rawbush

[FRC]

Thanks Skywatcher

The info about the the Lockridge Device capacitor was in the Energy from the Vacuum Series # 14 I think. Your relay info is interesting. I was considering a
relay setup in a cap bank circuit I have been working on for a while now. Your
info helps.

FRC

[SkyWatcher]

Hi frc, thanks for that information, I wonder what kind of microfarad rating the cap was.
Since were talking about this capacitor discharge topic, I recall in a thread, i think it was Peters motor secrets thread. A guy used a 1 microfarad capacitor and tested to see how well he could get a relay to clunk. He progressively raised the voltage to something like 500 volts and he said it almost tore itself apart.
So, I had a relay from radio hacks, the blue 9 volt one and used a microwave capacitor of .95 microfarad-2100volt. I measured the relay coil and it said 500 ohms.
Starting at 12 volts, there was no movement of the relay.
Then using 24 volts, thought i could hear a faint noise of the relay.
36 volts, i could hear it moving slightly.
48 volts, it started to make a little more noise.
60 volts, it clanked quite loudly.
I could only imagine what 120 volts would do.
Isn't this somewhat along the lines of what Ed Gray was doing.
Does it really take much energy to charge up a 1 microfarad cap to 60-120 volts and yet we get the relay clanking away loudly.
Seems worthy of investigation.
peace love light
Tyson

[FRC]

yes

Hi folks, Hi woopy, thanks for sharing those tests and videos. I have a vague idea of how the Lockridge is supposed to work, though did the Lockridge device use capacitors discharging into the coils.
Either way, that seems to be working very well. I still have my air-core motor that I've been running tests on, maybe I'll try capacitor discharging. That capacitor discharge method probably gives a nice flyback effect also, since it is an abrupt pulse. An aspect of Ed Grays motor setup.
Nice work.
peace love light
Tyson

Yes the original Lockridge device did have a capacitor. It was made from layers of copper sheet with old meat wrapping paper in between. This whole assembly was then wrapped around the circumference of the Delco Remy generator keeping the unit compact.

FRC

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi woopy, thanks for sharing those tests and videos. I have a vague idea of how the Lockridge is supposed to work, though did the Lockridge device use capacitors discharging into the coils.
Either way, that seems to be working very well. I still have my air-core motor that I've been running tests on, maybe I'll try capacitor discharging. That capacitor discharge method probably gives a nice flyback effect also, since it is an abrupt pulse. An aspect of Ed Grays motor setup.
Nice work.
peace love light
Tyson

[woopy]

going on

hi all

my progress

if it can helps

YouTube - lockridge test 3 .wmv

good luck at all

Laurent

[n84dafun]

Here's what I ended up ordering from McMaster.com. It was a cheaper alternative than the scooter wheel, plus I can use the 4 inch flywheel that I was originally going to use. I can tap the sprocket to screw onto the 3/8-16 threaded rod in the flywheel, and use roller bearings on both ends.

-brian

[n84dafun]

Brian,

Here is a wheel for $19.00 plus shipping that has an axle, wheel, tire and correct sprocket. You can also buy the correct chain here also.

Link: Razor E150 (Version 1-5) Chain Drive Rear Wheel Assembly - Pneumatic

Mark, Thanks for the link. I'll check around locally also.

Brian

[Mark]

Mark

You're right! The chain is too big for the sprocket! Back to the drawing board.

-brian

Brian,

Here is a wheel for $19.00 plus shipping that has an axle, wheel, tire and correct sprocket. You can also buy the correct chain here also.

Link: Razor E150 (Version 1-5) Chain Drive Rear Wheel Assembly - Pneumatic

[n84dafun]

Hey Brian

In my last post to you I was refering to your bike wheel when I said flywheel, sorry I didn't clarify. Does your kids bike wheel take a small chain that will work with your motor or did you have to get a different sprocket for the bike wheel or the motors? My motors gear wont work with my adult size bike chain.

I like your setup, looks good, keeps us posted on your testing.

Mark

Mark

You're right! The chain is too big for the sprocket! Back to the drawing board.

-brian

[Mark]

Hey Brian

In my last post to you I was refering to your bike wheel when I said flywheel, sorry I didn't clarify. Does your kids bike wheel take a small chain that will work with your motor or did you have to get a different sprocket for the bike wheel or the motors? My motors gear wont work with my adult size bike chain.

I like your setup, looks good, keeps us posted on your testing.

Mark