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Hi I'm the Owner of the Technology that was posted I will put it back up asap people in my company ask me to remove it because of money at this time... ok.. it will go back up on this thread 1st only, i'm fighting to bring this out and with you and everyone eles it will happen.
Hi I'm the Owner of the Technology that was posted I will put it back up asap people in my company ask me to remove it because of money at this time... ok.. it will go back up on this thread 1st only, i'm fighting to bring this out and with you and everyone eles it will happen.
GO GO GOReggie,
You are not alone pal. Let us know if we can help.
NoFear
Hi I'm the Owner of the Technology that was posted I will put it back up asap people in my company ask me to remove it because of money at this time... ok.. it will go back up on this thread 1st only, i'm fighting to bring this out and with you and everyone eles it will happen.
Hey a quick update.
As I've indicated earlier I am building the open version of Lockridge device, i.e separate motor, generator, caps, flywheel..etc.
And here's where I am at.
I am using the chevy starter motor suggested by Dr lindemann. But it originally comes with brass bushing...kinda of expected since it's only ON for few seconds. So I am in the process of upgrading to flange/ball bearing. The shaft is D=3/4" on one side and 9/16" on the other. Beside modifying the flange to fit the motor housing, I am wasting a lot of time finding a bearing for a 9/16" shaft. It's not a huge problem, there are many ways to find a fix but it's sheaper to work with off the shelve items. I'm bringing this up so you know what to look for in case you decide to go the same route.
Cheers
Nofear
Hey a quick update.
As I've indicated earlier I am building the open version of Lockridge device, i.e separate motor, generator, caps, flywheel..etc.
And here's where I am at.
I am using the chevy starter motor suggested by Dr lindemann. But it originally comes with brass bushing...kinda of expected since it's only ON for few seconds. So I am in the process of upgrading to flange/ball bearing. The shaft is D=3/4" on one side and 9/16" on the other. Beside modifying the flange to fit the motor housing, I am wasting a lot of time finding a bearing for a 9/16" shaft. It's not a huge problem, there are many ways to find a fix but it's sheaper to work with off the shelve items. I'm bringing this up so you know what to look for in case you decide to go the same route.
Cheers
Nofear
Hey Nofear
Get your machinist to spin you up a small sleeve to bring the 9/16 shaft up to 3/4 and you can use both the same bearings.
I just scored a toyota reduction starter, nicely made with proper bearings on both ends...was disappointed to find it had an uneven number of commutator segments.
Would have been happy to rewind if the armature had an even number of segments. Back to the drawing board......
Hi
1)The hook up is Red wire + from battery to + cap1 to + input motor
2) Black is - from battery to - cap3 to - input motor
3) Green is recovery from motor to rectifier to cap1 - to cap 2 +
4) Yel is recovery from motor to rectifier to cap 2- to cap 3+
Meter on left is hooked to battery
Meter on right is hooked to center cap.+ -
when I get a digital amp meter more will follow on readings
I have a few motors rewound the same way
with 3 caps 4700uF 450 vdc each if one wants one let me know Thanks for input
I doubt seriously there is any justification for calling it a self runner. You'll figure it out when you actually look at the the Watts and not just the voltage. Your just lowering the input to the system from the battery by charging the cap with the output of the coils, so the battery pops back up a bit.
A long run to measure battery voltage before and after will most likely show a loss in battery voltage.
Matt suggested adding a couple ammeters, after all power is I*V. Did you build a couple motor types then, one using a starter? The SRM looks like the razor scooter motor.
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