Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[pault]

Hi all,

Is this what we are trying to achieve -
...

Thanks for the pointer!

I've read about 1/2 of the posts (thread growing rapidly today).

Here's what I've gleaned, in the hopes it saves you time / head-scratching. Don't assume that my understanding is correct, comments welcome.

His rotor contains 8 magnets, all pointing in the same direction, sandwiched between two stators.

Each stator has 9 coils, 300 turns, about 36AWG (litzed). Each top stator coil is in series with its bottom partner, i.e. each of the coils is really 600 turns, and the rotor cuts through the middle (cross-section) of the coils.

Of the 9 (compound) coils, two are used as drive coils - that's our rewound motor. So, we could drop 2 of the coils (and 2 of the magnets???).

The other 7 coils are generator coils, each dumped into a separate FWBR. All FWBR outputs are connected in parallel to a cap.

The cap is connected to a DC-DC converter (12VDC to DC1.5, 3, 4.5, 5, 6, 9 and 12V). He claims he needed the converter to stop "burning out" his coils. I'm guessing a direct connection from the cap to the 2 drive coils produced flybacks high enough to hurt his wires, and that the converter smooths that out. That's what our recovery brushes are for, but it bears some thought as to whether a "regulator" might be of assisstance to our stuff.

The output of the DC-DC converter is put back into the two drive coils. Each drive coil is pulsed with a Hall-effect circuit (we are using the motor's commutator to pulse it).

And, in parallel, a 12VDC, 20W light bulb is connected to the output of the DC-DC converter.

The fact that there are an odd number of coils and an even number of magnets appears to be significant.

He says to tune the machine with the light-bulb in place. He appears to tune it for a smooth ride by adding extra magnets on top of some of the coils (side opposite the rotor).

He's attached a 2nd set of diodes across each of the FWBR's. I'm not yet sure if that's to increase current or to decrease diode forward voltage.

His "flywheel" is the thick plastic rotor disk.

He says that using Litz'ed wire is more productive than plain.

There are, certainly, some parallels to the Lockridge-like motor we're working on.

He's probably got less drag (better spin time) than our off-the-shelf motors.

More thoughts (if any :-) later.

pt

[penno64]

Thanks Paul.

[pault]

leverage

Interesting idea (on Muller thread) about the use of leverage.

Position the drive coils at the outside of the disk and the generator coils closer to center of the disk to gain (some) advantage of leveraging drive coil force over generator coil drag.

Muller Dynamo

From that perspective, my mod'ed DC motor is inside-out. The drive shaft is in the center, and my experimental generator disk has its magnets about 6" radially out from the center.

I might be able to take advantage of this idea, if I were to build a suitable flywheel with most of its mass at the outside, then position the generator magnets closer to the center. Hmmm. OTOH, maybe it doesn't matter (much) where the magnets are, once the flywheel is up to speed. More thought required.

pt

[Matthew Jones]

The only problem with flywheel that has the weight on the outside is it takes more work to get it up to speed.
The real trick would be to have the weight start on inside then move out slowly as the speed was gained. Then start pulling a load off of it from the inside.




Matt

[pault]

The only problem with flywheel that has the weight on the outside is it takes more work to get it up to speed.
The real trick would be to have the weight start on inside then move out slowly as the speed was gained. Then start pulling a load off of it from the inside.




Matt

Yes, interesting point. Thanks.

Although I'm mechanically challenged, the first thought that comes to mind is to chop the flywheel mass up into a number of heavy, short, cylinders tapped in the middle.

Mount the cylinders on threaded "spokes" radiating away from the hub.

Screw the cylinders down all the way to the hub.

Start the machine.

The centrifugal force causes the cylinders to twist (screw) themselves outward to the maximum outward extension. The screwing action slows the the outward movement of the cylinders, giving the motor a bit of startup leeway.

The generator magnets cannot be mounted on the spokes since they would interfere with the outward motion of the weights, so add a second (low mass) disk to the motor shaft holding the magnets.

[Ideally, but impractially (?), the magnets would also be mounted on threaded spokes and would wind themselves out from the hub to the middle position (and end up in the correct NS orientation), without banging into the generator pickup coils in the process.]

pt

add: This cylinder/screw arrangement is the mechanical equivalent of an electronic coil (inductor). It resists rapid change in momentum. The threaded cylinder has to wind its way out to the perimeter by "looping" (spiraling, screwing) around, instead of just whipping out to the perimeter if it was simply mounted on a smooth spoke with no threads.

[Matthew Jones]

Now your thinking..

Cheers
Matt

[Peter Lindemann]

Staying ON Topic Here

Hi Guys,

I can appreciate your interest in the "Muller Motor Demonstration" video, but there are threads dedicated to that elsewhere on this forum. Please post your comments on that topic in the appropriate threads. This thread is for people interested in experimenting with modified DC motors to produce a torque enhancement by lowering the back EMF/forward EMF ratio.

Please stay on topic here.

Thanks,
Peter

[Turion]

I have built an electric motor EXACTLY the way Peter told us to, and have posted pictures of it previously, which is ALWAYS my first step, and I continue to experiment with THAT motor and its applications. Don't build what I am about to show you until you have followed Peter's directions for a rebuilt motor TO THE LETTER.

I did, however, want to share that I took apart a car alternator. I removed the rotor and replaced it with one I made out of a 3/4 inch steel bolt I had machined to the same measurements as the previous shaft, except longer so it sticks out one end of the alternator. There are 42 slots on the commutator for coils, so let your imagination work on different possible combinations there. I chose three magnets on the rotor and three groups of 3 on, 11 off on the stator. I could have gone with 4 groups of 5 on and 8 off with 4 magnets on the rotor, and I may go buy another alternator or two at the junk yard, pull the stators out, and experiment with different coil configurations to see what happens. I could also replace the rotor with one that has four magnets on it. I am having a rotor hub made that will slide onto my center shaft that I can bolt different configurations of magnets to (made out of steel with a set screw to tighten it on the shaft) but for now I am using a plastic rotor with magnets attached. The main reason I did this is because it eliminates the need for brushes, and I just HATE those brushes!! I have two videos posted at You Tube, and will soon be using this motor to pulse my generator. Will let all know how it turns out.

videos are here:
YouTube - 11Turion's Channel
YouTube - 11Turion's Channel

[Peter Lindemann]

Reggie is at it again!

Hi Folks,

I was just sent this in a private message. Reggie has been interviewed on CNN claiming he is going to save the world with his new invention. Plus, he is going to sell some old photos of Michael Jackson to fund his project.

Forgotten Michael Jackson photos could power the world, inventor says - CNN.com

Gee Matt, I guess your scooter motor modification was better than you thought.

Peter

[Matthew Jones]

Well what can I say, I saved the world and I can't even get credit for it. I guess its cause I neglected to keep Micheal Jackson Pictures.


That is just truely amazing.

Matt

[Turion]

Hey Matt,
My wife is in the legal department and specializes in intellectual property, and open source contracts. So if you ever have a question about ANY of that, let me know and I can definitely find the answer. We are in the Silicon Valley, and that is the hot spot for intellectual property.

Nice of Reggie to let everyone here know what he was going to do with the info so freely provided here. I realize everyone would like to make a million, but come on!!!

David Bowling

[goreggie]

Hollywood

Busy take a look so far so good goreggie
YouTube - ‪Reggie's Self running motor 05 19 11‬‏

[Web000x]

Busy take a look so far so good goreggie
YouTube - ‪Reggie's Self running motor 05 19 11‬‏

That is still not enough evidence to call it self running.

Use appropriate measuring resolution. That 30 amp scale on your analog meter didn't show anything. You need more meters to show all amperage flows in the device as well.

If you are convinced that it is self running, let it run for a day or two and show the voltage after. You have only ran it for minutes at a time in any video that you have shown.



Dave

[Matthew Jones]

Busy take a look so far so good goreggie
YouTube - ‪Reggie's Self running motor 05 19 11‬‏

Your hack DUDE. You did nothing but copy my circuit.

Look show amperage going into the motor and amperage coming out. Without that you have nothing. You have to look at the pulses and the time they are on and off. Not only positive input and output but the negative as well.

Read about BUCK BOOST circuits. Thats all your doing. And you are not going to be able to turn a generator with that motor.

And thats where your stupidity shows itself. You don't know how to build a generator that is capable of generating on a low torque basis.

And if you would stop this outright plagiarism and show the true number on that motor and admit you just copied my design, and take down the "for sale" sign, and stop talking all the BullS**T you been talking all over the place, I would take the time to show you how to build a REAL SELF RUNNING MOTOR.

Yes you read that "REAL". No batteries needed at all.

But with HACKS like you around there is no point in sharing anything just to watch some one run out and practice there greedy, self serving intentions.
You'll do nothing with that motor, I guarantee it. Your just HACK, and you don't know your head from a** trying to convince people its self running.

You remember, what goes around come around.... You better change your ways.

Matthew Jones

[Mark]

If its self running you dont need the batteries at all, it should run directly off of the capacitors. Can you show us a video of it running without the batteries?