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Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

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  • FRC
    replied
    Whats the motor ?

    Originally posted by emfimp View Post
    So this motor is just a cheap windshield wiper motor that I'm messing with - the two windings you see are original - I didn't wind them. I did have to change where they meet the commutator. (They are wired in parallel with each other)
    More mods tomorrow...
    Could you tell us what the specific motor is? Out of what kind of vehicle?

    Thanks

    FRC

    P.S. I am not sure if the Gyrocopter Co. is still going. The owner crashed and died in one of them a few years ago.

    Leave a comment:


  • emfimp
    replied
    Ooops!

    I have to say that I pictured the windings in the space between the magnets too (while firing) - oops! Thanks for your perseverance Peter!

    Thought I'd upload a quick sketch for all. I tried this wiring setup tonight - works well! Loads of torque, even just on 12 volts. I don't have my recovery brushes set up yet, and with around 1 minute run time I can already see black on the commutator where the radiant energy is arcing back. Woohoo!

    So this motor is just a cheap windshield wiper motor that I'm messing with - the two windings you see are original - I didn't wind them. I did have to change where they meet the commutator. (They are wired in parallel with each other)

    You can see one of the brushes, & it lines up with the bolt hole in the case. (where the stator bolts over the rotor) This bolt hole happens to line up perfectly with the center of the pole face of the stator magnet. So the brush is firing in the position you see, & the windings are right at the center of the mag pole. This does work very well!

    More mods tomorrow...
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • IndianaBoys
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post

    This is the THIRD TIME I have said it.

    Peter
    Picture or sketch worth a thousand words,

    IndianaBoys

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Not What I Said

    Originally posted by Mark View Post
    Turion,

    LOL, now you sound like me
    You'll want the slots where the wire is to be centered where the gap is between the 2 magnets.
    Turion,

    Sorry for this. In this situation, Mark is NOT saying what I am saying. I want the slots with the wires in them to be CENTERED in the middle of your NORTH and SOUTH MAGNET POLES when they are turned on by the brushes. As the current moves through the windings, they will be REPELLED from the magnets and forced OUT OF THE FIELD.

    This is the THIRD TIME I have said it.

    Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark
    replied
    Attention!!!!

    DO NOT BUY THIS MOTOR FOR THIS PROJECT!! 24 VDC 250W MOTOR, 11 TOOTH SPROCKET | AllElectronics.com

    All of the coil winding are glued into the rotor and it is impossible to unwind I have been working to unwind it for an hour now and have not been able to pull any of the wires thru the slots. There are also insulators between the slots that must be glue because I am unable to remove those also. I have some 2" cut off wheels I will try using tomorrow to try and cut the wire off but I will probably end up damaging the rotor.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark
    replied
    Turion,

    LOL, now you sound like me
    You'll want the slots where the wire is to be centered where the gap is between the 2 magnets.

    Leave a comment:


  • phil.g
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Peter,
    I am still confused. Sorry. By definition, the stator is the stationary part of a rotor system. In my motor that would be the circular casing which has the curved magnets on it. The stator "face" would be, as I understand it, the magnets and /or the spaces between the two magnets. The center of the stator face would be either the center of the magnets (or of "a" magnet, two of which are opposite each other,so it would be the center of each) OR the center of the space between the two magnets, which are also opposite each other. I don't know what the "stator POLE face" is, unless by pole you mean North or South pole, in which case you mean the center of each of the magnets. Or do you mean something else entirely? Sorry, but my lack of understanding of this terminology is only surpassed by my lack of understanding of electrical principals in general, which is what makes this oh so much fun!
    Part of the fun is experimentation. Try it one way, see what happens, if it doesn't spin, try the other way.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Peter,
    I am still confused. Sorry. By definition, the stator is the stationary part of a rotor system. In my motor that would be the circular casing which has the curved magnets on it. The stator "face" would be, as I understand it, the magnets and /or the spaces between the two magnets. The center of the stator face would be either the center of the magnets (or of "a" magnet, two of which are opposite each other,so it would be the center of each) OR the center of the space between the two magnets, which are also opposite each other. I don't know what the "stator POLE face" is, unless by pole you mean North or South pole, in which case you mean the center of each of the magnets. Or do you mean something else entirely? Sorry, but my lack of understanding of this terminology is only surpassed by my lack of understanding of electrical principals in general, which is what makes this oh so much fun!

    Leave a comment:


  • rosehillworks
    replied
    Peter
    In the zig zag scenario of winding the motor are we using it as an A field motor instead of an H field? Thanks, William

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Thanks Peter, I'll give that try.

    I screwed up when I wound the coil and shorted them out to the rotor. So I had to unwind them and coat the thing with some epoxy. There are few spots that the nylon got wore off from demoing the rotor.
    So no run this evening.
    ALso I remove one wire I had in the thing.(Silver coating). It just made direct short. I am not sure why I hooked it up at all. LOL
    But here's some pics.

    I may rewind it like Peter suggested to Mark. The one in the picture is just 2 coils wound North. I see though that you can take advantage of all the poles in the motor and still stay on 2 (180 out) communtator positions.

    Maybe I'll get it going to tommorrow.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Centered ON

    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    By "when the windings are in the middle of the stator poles" do you mean centered ON the two magnets or BETWEEN the two magnets? I thought it was between the two magnets??
    Turion,

    I mean CENTERED ON (in the middle of) the stator pole faces.

    Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Now I'm Confused

    Originally posted by Mark View Post
    LOL, ok I'll try it. It doesn't seem like that would work! Just weaving back and forth thru the slots with no actual coils per say.

    LOL, still want to make sure I have this right. After winding the rotor if I'm looking down the shaft of the rotor I would see >< with copper wire going up and down over the symbols. And if I looked at the other side without turning it I would see the same thing except the symbols would be rotated 90 degrees with the wires running horizontal. Is that right, the wire would have the appearance of a 4 bladed fan, 2 blades on each side. One side the blades horizontal and the other side the blades perpendicular?

    Sorry to keep bugging you just want to get it right.

    Mark
    Mark,

    I think you understand just fine. You just haven't ever thought of winding a motor this way. Just to clarify, here is another description.

    Starting at the commutator side, lay your wire into slot #1. Coming out of Slot #1, lay the wire along the edge of the rotor until you get to slot #6. then enter slot #6 and come back to the commutator side again. Then go over to slot #11 and lay the wire down slot #11 and come out on the back side again. Then go over to slot #16 and come back over to the commutator side. Then, on to slot #1 again.... around in that pattern until the slots are filled. This is for your 20 slot rotor. The ends of the wires will terminate on two commutator segments that are 180* away from each other when the wire in the slots are sitting in the middle of the stator poles.

    You understand the rest.

    Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Turion,

    Yes, that is what I am suggesting. So, that will be your first, discrete winding. Fill the slots up and terminate them on the proper commutation segments that are just engaging the brushes when the windings are in the middle of the stator poles.

    You can then wind the second discrete winding 90* off from that one. This will allow the motor to have 4 power pulses per revolution, but each winding will only be carrying current twice per revolution. This should give the motor plenty of power and the windings plenty of time to stay cool.

    The commutator and brush diagram I made for Matt should work for your motor also.

    Peter
    By "when the windings are in the middle of the stator poles" do you mean centered ON the two magnets or BETWEEN the two magnets? I thought it was between the two magnets??

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Correct!!! YEAH!

    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Peter, I see that you are on. Did you have a chance to look at my YouTube video and see if I am winding correctly?
    YouTube - 11Turion's Channel
    Turion,

    Yes, that is what I am suggesting. So, that will be your first, discrete winding. Fill the slots up and terminate them on the proper commutation segments that are just engaging the brushes when the windings are in the middle of the stator poles.

    You can then wind the second discrete winding 90* off from that one. This will allow the motor to have 4 power pulses per revolution, but each winding will only be carrying current twice per revolution. This should give the motor plenty of power and the windings plenty of time to stay cool.

    The commutator and brush diagram I made for Matt should work for your motor also.

    Peter
    Last edited by Peter Lindemann; 01-14-2011, 09:08 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark
    replied
    Torion,

    You got it The only thing is you need to tie your start piece on the other end where the commutator is.

    Leave a comment:

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