Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[rave154]

EMCSQ,

i can confirm your statement re:- meter internal resistance against external resistor in series as a test recomended by Peter.

My meter in DC mode is listed as having an internal impedance of 10 MOhms....

measuring a battery directly the voltage was 12.55V, i then placed a resistor of 1MOhm in series with the meter and the measured voltage was 11.4V.

this appeasr correct since, total resistance that voltage of 12.55V is across = 10M + 1M =11M

therefore since we are measuring across only the 10M of the meter the voltage should be.... ( 12.55 / 11 ) * 10 = 11.4V which is exactly what i got on the meter.

[dragon]

I think we can assume, at least for the device/circuit being experimented with, that the 48 ohm resistance in the bulbs shouldn't cause a decrease in voltage to the cap being charged.

My tests using various resistance bulbs showed the cap would charge to the voltage of the battery. The only difference was that the higher resistance bulbs slowed the charge rate. There is a potential difference until the cap is charged.

I guess the next test might be to determine if and/or how much energy the bulb(s) are converting to heat. Is all the energy actually going to charge the cap....?
________
Mary Jane

[Peter Lindemann]

Voltage Divider

Hi Folks,

Sorry for the confusion with the "resistor in series with the multimeter" test. Perhaps that was a bad example. We all know that an applied voltage will be distributed across a set of resistors proportionately. This is a given. That said, I would also like to say that I do not believe that this is the same phenomenon as either "the dissipation of electricity" or a true "voltage drop" in a circuit component.

The "charging of a capacitor" is the transfer and storage of electricity, and a resistor in series with this process simply regulates the rate at which current flows. The total quantity of electricity lost in this transfer (dissipation) is very low. On the other hand, a transistor is a circuit component that has a "true voltage drop" across it, which represents a real loss of potential during conduction of current.

Since I do not wish to debate these issues here, I would just like to thank EMCSQ for helping to promote clarity in the thread, and move on.

Peter

[goreggie]

Commutator

Hi while working on the commutator would a car distributor work [ATTACH][/ATTACH]or brushes? Mark R. Thanks for any reply

[emfimp]

Goreggie - good idea! A distributor has all the needed components, & little modding to do.

Keep in mind you may want to change your pulse width for optimal running - you may be able to attach copper strips to do that on a distributor - not really sure.

I'm choosing to build a commutator using a 3/4" piece of copper pipe - fill it with JB weld, let harden, then drill the proper sized shaft hole using a friend's lathe. (through the JB) I'll JB a collet to that, so that it can be slipped on & off the shaft. The brushes will be copper strips (in the beginning), and the "off" portion of the copper pipe will just have a piece of electrical tape over it. Fairly crude, but allows easy adjustability via the tape.

Luv 2 hear more ideas!

[dragon]

Doesn't JB weld have metal in it? Is it conductive? I plan to follow a similar path for the commutator. I'm going to try some fiberglass resin for the filler. It holds up quite well with heat, to a certain point, I'm not sure how it will handle the pressure of the brushes dragging on it. It will be good enough to run some tests and if all works well a more sophisticated unit can be made up later.
________
Halfbaked

[goreggie]

Commutator lockridge device

Goreggie - good idea! A distributor has all the needed components, & little modding to do.

Keep in mind you may want to change your pulse width for optimal running - you may be able to attach copper strips to do that on a distributor - not really sure.

I'm choosing to build a commutator using a 3/4" piece of copper pipe - fill it with JB weld, let harden, then drill the proper sized shaft hole using a friend's lathe. (through the JB) I'll JB a collet to that, so that it can be slipped on & off the shaft. The brushes will be copper strips (in the beginning), and the "off" portion of the copper pipe will just have a piece of electrical tape over it. Fairly crude, but allows easy adjustability via the tape.

Luv 2 hear more ideas!

Thanks for the reply yes your right, the pulse width is everything I'm going with brushes Mark R. Merry Christmas

[emfimp]

Yes, you're right - JB does have metal in it. I was recommended it by someone who has tried this, & apparently there are not enough metal flakes for it to actually conduct.

I'll post pictures & results as soon as I have it made.

Happy holidays to everyone!

[Michael Kishline]

Commutator prototyping

Goreggie - good idea! A distributor has all the needed components, & little modding to do.

Keep in mind you may want to change your pulse width for optimal running - you may be able to attach copper strips to do that on a distributor - not really sure.

I'm choosing to build a commutator using a 3/4" piece of copper pipe - fill it with JB weld, let harden, then drill the proper sized shaft hole using a friend's lathe. (through the JB) I'll JB a collet to that, so that it can be slipped on & off the shaft. The brushes will be copper strips (in the beginning), and the "off" portion of the copper pipe will just have a piece of electrical tape over it. Fairly crude, but allows easy adjustability via the tape.

Luv 2 hear more ideas!

Greetings emfimp,

Maybe you could use a set of Government Motors slip rings. I pick these up at a motor rewind shop for $10 when I built my Kromrey Converter, it's already mounted on a insulator that's molded onto the rings. You could slot these into a commutator with a power hacksaw or the right cutting tool.

Could save a lot of time?

Merry Christmas, Mike

GM Slip Rings 4.jpgGM Slip Rings 5.jpgGM Slip Rings 3.jpg

[Bill H]

Greetings emfimp,

Maybe you could use a set of Government Motors slip rings. I pick these up at a motor rewind shop for $10 when I built my Kromrey Converter, it's already mounted on a insulator that's molded onto the rings. You could slot these into a commutator with a power hacksaw or the right cutting tool.

Could save a lot of time?

Merry Christmas, Mike

[ATTACH]7293[/ATTACH][ATTACH]7294[/ATTACH][ATTACH]7295[/ATTACH]

Nice Slip rings Mike. Also the delco brush holder is a nice piece to work with.
Just watched my video this morning, I recieved it on thursday but this morning early was my first opportunity. Thanks Peter, very inspiring and educational.
Slip rings can also be had from any Automotive electrical rebuilder. Alternators Parts,Slip rings, Lucas,Bosch,Delco,ford,valeo,paris rhone,hitachi,leece neville,ducellier,nippondenso,prestolite and mitsubishi is a good source and reference as well.
Not sure of the direction of my build yet but will be on the watch for components.
Bill H.

[emfimp]

Wow! Thanks Michael & Bill! These look like great replacements, & cheap too! Definitely going to be first on my list, to look these up...

[goreggie]

Commutator

Hi I got this from Ted in SF Bay, 2" pvc coupler coat with vasaline, 2" copper coupler cut the way you want it, use body filler bondo, slip copper into pvc fill wait 1 hour sand your done Mark R

[phil.g]

Assumptions, assumptions

I bought the DVD, watched it straight through a couple of times, and have been bouncing around in it to review details.

As I've been reading the posts here, I'm struck by how many assumptions are flying around. An example from Dragon:

> If you use 3 100 watt bulbs in parallel you have a resistance of 48 ohms ...

I have been assuming the load/ballast would be in series. I think it would be a good idea for us to surface and make explicit the assumptions we have; likely, many of them are wrong...

(P.S. I'm not sure how Dragon arrived at 48 ohms -- I assume Dragon measured one and did some math. But the resistance of tungsten filaments is highly temperature-dependent, so the resistance of a hot bulb is very different from a cold one.)

[dragon]

Your absolutely right phil.g ! I simply assumed a 300 watt arrangement without thinking it through while my mind was working on other problems. In reality the resistance only determines the current flow to the caps. Something in the range of 196 ohms would deliver 1.2 amps to the cap. Going a little deeper, we need to charge the cap in .02 seconds which would require a little more current. Getting the resistance correct may take a bit of experimenting - possibly a single 100 watt bulb of 144 ohms would do it. I was assuming the resistance of hot bulbs.
________
Pov sex

[dewey]

Mark, and everyone else,

My goal is to help everyone here, who wants to, learn how to build a self-running system. That said, I do not have time to get involved with "the build" as you put it, because I am too busy working for a living.

What I would like to do is help you all understand what it will take to develop a working design. There are a lot of details that have not been worked out yet, and there is no reason to believe that "the group" here understands the science of what I presented in my lecture.

So we can all get going on the SAME PAGE, I would like everyone who wants to participate in this thread to write down on a piece of paper what your understanding and definition of BACK EMF is.

DO NOT POST YOUR ANSWER. Just write it down as best you can. I told the answer in the lecture, but I don't want early "posters" to influence others, for better or for worse. Then on Sunday night, everyone can post their answer without looking at anyone else's answer. That should give me a pretty clear idea of how people are thinking about this and what they have learned from my lecture so far.

I will figure out how to proceed after this.

Peter

Peter,

Since I was unable to attend the 2010 conference, I followed your line of thinking from the DVDs, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I completely agree with your theories presented.

Will your working model be at the next conference?

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I'll get your autogragh in July!

Dewey.