Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[Nofear]

Hi there everyone
After doing lots of tests with 10,12,16 commutator sections it seems to me that a 20 com would be the best to start with.To get a 10% duty cycle you need 1 com section firing twice per cycle on a 20 com setup.10 com = 20% duty cycle etc. Every time i tried to get over 24 volts i think the current starts to catch up causing feedback to the brushes and no recovery with a duty cycle more than 10% .The motors ive been using = windscreen wiper , radiator fan , boat winch , this is all i could get my hands on at the moment (no spare money) so i'll have to wait . Peter said start with something about 1/2 horse power(373watts) which is spot on i think plus it will have a good set of high current brushes that will put up with high voltage pulses. On a hole these smaller motors preformed very well (good torque) but are limited to 24v when modifications are done to the rotor with minimum recovery from the back spike because of there long duty cycle .Most of the time i just shorted the recovery brushes with a diode and a bulb that didn't light to smooth things out. This is just what ive found with my small setups at the moment .Any thoughts anyone. Jason

Hi Jason.
Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.
I like the open concept, it does the same thing with less headaches.
- A motor, a flywheel and a generator all on a same shaft.
- The motor is PM with strong magnets on the rotor. Winding on the stator so no need to fiddle around with brushes, arcing and all that jazz. or rewinding..etc
- Capacitor close to the motor with big fat copper wires.
- Switch to dump the Caps load into the stator windings triggered by reed switched or encoder type setup.
- Motor casing could have machined slots to cancel magnetic saturation in iron.
-Generator voltage at least 10 time greater then motor voltage (i.e if motor is 24v the generator output voltage should be at least 240V.
- Cap rating should exceed generator output voltage....exemple 400V.
All this is in Peter's DVD part2.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

[pault]

hex nut for Princess Auto motors

For anyone using the Princess Auto motor that I'm using, with the left-hand thread on the shaft: it turns out that Brafasco stocks left-hand hex nuts - 1/4-20 #FISTE0330005 ($1.46 ea.).

pt

[FRC]

Nofear

Hi Jason.
Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.
I like the open concept, it does the same thing with less headaches.
- A motor, a flywheel and a generator all on a same shaft.
- The motor is PM with strong magnets on the rotor. Winding on the stator so no need to fiddle around with brushes, arcing and all that jazz. or rewinding..etc
- Capacitor close to the motor with big fat copper wires.
- Switch to dump the Caps load into the stator windings triggered by reed switched or encoder type setup.
- Motor casing could have machined slots to cancel magnetic saturation in iron.
-Generator voltage at least 10 time greater then motor voltage (i.e if motor is 24v the generator output voltage should be at least 240V.
- Cap rating should exceed generator output voltage....exemple 400V.
All this is in Peter's DVD part2.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

Why not just diodes or FWBR coming off the generator to the caps one way ?

FRC

[Nofear]

Why not just diodes or FWBR coming off the generator to the caps one way ?

FRC

Humm....you would like the generator to be free to spin while the caps are dumping the charge in the motor and also during the subsequent torque transfert (kinetic energy transfert to the fly wheel). In otherwords you need to give the chance to the motor to speed up before connect the caps back to the generator. That lague of time isn't provided by the use of diode..or is it?
Hope I understand your schematic. Let me know if I am making sense.
Thanks

[citfta]

Hi Nofear,

In the original device as best understood by Peter the cap was charged through the 300 watts of light bulbs. This reduced the load on the generator so it was not hit with a surge of current load after the motor was pulsed. Also the flywheel is there to keep the speed of the generator stable between pulses from the motor. Therefore there is no need to disconnect the generator from the cap.

Hi Jason.
Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

Hope this helps a little.

Carroll

[goreggie]

3 wire wrap 23 ga

Back at it ,this is 30 turns of 3 wires 23ga magnet wire, one will go to power from battery, the other two with a diode placed in line will prevent battery power from going to them and maybe recovery on all 3..... will keep you up to date
Thanks Peter for the lastest on your newsletter it really helps

[mbrownn]

Hi, I don’t want to take you off at a tangent, but I think this is something you should consider http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post135454

FRC posted “You should place these posts in the Lockridge thread. I think you might have something here.” But as I said it would be off topic for this thread.

If you could take a look at this and comment I would be most grateful.

Thanks in advance

[pault]

shorting coil tests

I attached a lid from a plastic pail (11.5") to a small 4" flywheel (approx. 500g, about half of what my numbers show for the sweet spot of this motor). I attached 8 3/8" round magnets (neo, similar to those used in the conference 3pm).

I spun this up with 2 batteries (25V tot) and pointed the magnets into the charging coil from the 3pm (looks like 31awg, approx 1000 turns), reed switch for shorting, FWBR to a 10uF cap. The recovery output went through another FWBR into the same cap. When I tweak the reed switch just right (just past the coil, one end pointed 45 deg. towards the magnets), I managed to charge the cap to 105V in 30 seconds.

E = 1/2 x C x V^2 = 0.055 C

My modified motor needs pulses of about 2A (probably more, since 2A is an average) at 30V

I = Q/t => t = Q/I = 0.055/2 = 27.5msec.

It runs best at 3750 RPM = 16msec.

So this contraption generates enough energy for 2 pulses every 30 seconds (27.5 / 16 =~ 2) or 1/15 pulse per second. I need 62.5 pulses per second, so it looks like I would need 937 of these kinds of coils (plus enough disks to hold magnets).

Unless I've goofed up the math (highly possible), it looks like I should be looking at different generators, or at ways to get more charge out of this kind.

Any ideas? What are other people using for generators?

pt

[N O G]

Motor functions

Here is how I see the lockridge device. Just my two cents, please don't shoot the messenger.
I like the open concept, it does the same thing with less headaches.
- A motor, a flywheel and a generator all on a same shaft.
- The motor is PM with strong magnets on the rotor. Winding on the stator so no need to fiddle around with brushes, arcing and all that jazz. or rewinding..etc
- Capacitor close to the motor with big fat copper wires.
- Switch to dump the Caps load into the stator windings triggered by reed switched or encoder type setup.
- Motor casing could have machined slots to cancel magnetic saturation in iron.
-Generator voltage at least 10 time greater then motor voltage (i.e if motor is 24v the generator output voltage should be at least 240V.
- Cap rating should exceed generator output voltage....example 400V.
All this is in Peter's DVD part2.

The only thing that isn't in the DVD is how to disengage the generator during the time the motor is giving a kick to the flywheel....Well the solution isn't mechanical. For the same reason we pulse current into the motor to reduce BEMF effect, one should pulse charge the capacitor to minimize the motoring effect on the generator. A teeter totter switch allowing the caps to be connected to either the Gen or motor only should do the job.
Talk is cheap so I'll post pictures when I get it working.
Please don't be rude to me, I could be doing things different but my heart is in the right place.
God bless.

Hi there Nofear
Thanks heaps for your explanation on your views of how this works.The first thing that come to mind after reading your post was an old dual foot pedal sowing machine i used when i was a kid to fix tarps.It had a large flywheel on the side and when you started the machine you had to turn the flywheel by hand than start to push on the two pedals to keep it going.When it got up to full speed you could use one foot then with little effort an sow like a horse out of a paddock.When you came to the end of the sowing run you couldn't stop the thing with out burning your hand which always made me wounder.So one foot would be the motor push down and the other foot is your gen pushing back with the flywheel .This is just how i quickly broke this down in my head.Back to what you wrote , I think this is a good combination to explore ,going to have to get some parts together and see what i can come up with .Here is a motor i just got out of an old paper press roller system that a mate gave me (it made my day). Might carefully take the rotor out and make my own rotor as a starting point .cheers Jason

[FRC]

Flywheel

I do agree with some of what nofear said and also with N.O.G. I have been thinking of using a much smaller 12v motor and use the larger pault type one
as the generator but with a very large heavy flywheel. I am sure that it would have to be started by hand as N.O.G. mentioned. But that is how the actual
Lockridge device was started manually, so I believe there is something to this.


FRC

[Nofear]

Hi Nofear,
In the original device as best understood by Peter the cap was charged through the 300 watts of light bulbs. This reduced the load on the generator so it was not hit with a surge of current load after the motor was pulsed. Also the flywheel is there to keep the speed of the generator stable between pulses from the motor. Therefore there is no need to disconnect the generator from the cap.

Hope this helps a little.

Carroll

Hi Carroll,
Much appreciated...Agree with you brother. All what you've said is correct but keep in mind these extra points and you might see things a bit differently:
If you look at the lockridge schematic, when the external commutator connects the caps to the motor it is also connecting the generator directly to the motor. In other words, the motor is about to speed up at the same time the generator is developing a revers-torque. That sounds very counter productive to me and Peter warned us about this in his DVD.
Here's my theory for light bulbs. The charge transfered from the generator to the caps is constant. i.e The current dies to zero once the caps are fully charged. There are many ways you can acheive this: 1) hook up the gen to the cap and blast a huge current which will slow down the gen. But keep in mind that the large current is also short in time. or....2) limit the cap charge current so to NOt slow down the gen but the caps will take longer to charge. In otherwords the small current will be applied LONGER. SO which of the two do you thing would slow down the generator more. the short time/high current or the longer lasting/smaller current?
I don't have the answer to that question....I just know that we shouldn't lose track of why we are doing this, which is to have some freacking lights. We are not building a lab curiousity, at the end of the day this device has to do some real work. But it help get the theory right.
After all what has been said, I am still favoring charging the caps with short pulses. even if it has to be few pulses per revolution: So the gen pulse charge the caps via light bulbs about 3 to 4 time per revolution and the last pulse would be the cap dumping the charge to the motor while it is disconnected from the lights and generator.
Thanks.

[Nofear]

Hi there Nofear
Thanks heaps for your explanation on your views of how this works........Here is a motor i just got out of an old paper press roller system that a mate gave me (it made my day). Might carefully take the rotor out and make my own rotor as a starting point .cheers Jason

Hey Jason,
I am getting my 1965 chevy starter motor next week. So far I've a Baldor 180V shunt generator. no flywheel yet. The ideal set up would be to have a brushless PM rotor DC motor. but most of them come with thin wired stator windings, probably not really suited for high current pulses. Beside Dr lindemann raise a good point about running the risk of demagnetizing the permanent magnets.

For the motor you would want to have thick wire windings: thick wires--> high current --> high torque.
I am giving myself three weeks to get this beast running. I'll be posting pictures.
Something that haven't been said much on this thread is pulsed acceleration on rotating flywheel. somewhere else in the world of free enrgy devices it has been reported that if a fly wheel is winded up with a jerky type rotation...or pulsed acceleration one could get more energy out then what was initially put in. I'll leave it to that for now unless you guys want talk about it. I am just mentioning it because of your observation with the sawing machine and also because of the way the driving motor is being used in the lockridge device context.
Cheers. Nofear.

[N O G]

Shorted coils

I attached a lid from a plastic pail (11.5") to a small 4" flywheel (approx. 500g, about half of what my numbers show for the sweet spot of this motor). I attached 8 3/8" round magnets (neo, similar to those used in the conference 3pm).

I spun this up with 2 batteries (25V tot) and pointed the magnets into the charging coil from the 3pm (looks like 31awg, approx 1000 turns), reed switch for shorting, FWBR to a 10uF cap. The recovery output went through another FWBR into the same cap. When I tweak the reed switch just right (just past the coil, one end pointed 45 deg. towards the magnets), I managed to charge the cap to 105V in 30 seconds.

E = 1/2 x C x V^2 = 0.055 C

My modified motor needs pulses of about 2A (probably more, since 2A is an average) at 30V

I = Q/t => t = Q/I = 0.055/2 = 27.5msec.

It runs best at 3750 RPM = 16msec.

So this contraption generates enough energy for 2 pulses every 30 seconds (27.5 / 16 =~ 2) or 1/15 pulse per second. I need 62.5 pulses per second, so it looks like I would need 937 of these kinds of coils (plus enough disks to hold magnets).

Unless I've goofed up the math (highly possible), it looks like I should be looking at different generators, or at ways to get more charge out of this kind.

Any ideas? What are other people using for generators?

pt

Hi there pault
A while back i played around with small generator setups and found you need large magnets to get good generations because its to hard to get magnetic flux from the magnets into all the coil wires when there small.ive found that when a magnet is larger than the coil it covers all the wires with its magnetic flux producing maximum transfer .The geometry on how to do this transfer is endless .When it come to the best output i liked John Bedini's monopole energizer type with a none linear output . cheers Jason

[N O G]

[QUOTE=Nofear;135669]Hey Jason,
I am getting my 1965 chevy starter motor next week. So far I've a Baldor 180V shunt generator. no flywheel yet. The ideal set up would be to have a brushless PM rotor DC motor.

Hi there Nofear
Whats a Baldor shunt generator ? Canr't we build a generator thats more efficient than common gens out there but mightn't be as compact. Cheers Jason

[pault]

Hi there pault
A while back i played around with small generator setups and found you need large magnets to get good generations because its to hard to get magnetic flux from the magnets into all the coil wires when there small.ive found that when a magnet is larger than the coil it covers all the wires with its magnetic flux producing maximum transfer .The geometry on how to do this transfer is endless .When it come to the best output i liked John Bedini's monopole energizer type with a none linear output . cheers Jason

Hi Jason

Interesting comments. I can actually test this. The place I got my magnets from also stocks larger ones. I can tear off the 3/8" magnets and replace them with physically larger ones, then re-measure the output.

The magnets I'm using are "rare earth" (aka neo's, I think). On the Bedini lists, people seem to shun neos. I'm not entirely sure why. Is it because they have too much flux per unit volume (too narrow a beam)? Is that what you mean by "bigger" - larger surface area, lower flux density, field spread out over a larger area? I guess that I can also do the same experiment with ferrites.

If I'm not mistaken, JB also states that one should never saturate the core of the coil.

thanks
pt