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3 Pole Kit from Rennaissance Meeting

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  • #46
    Thanks for posting the circuit. Be sure to include the diode that connects to the collector of 21194, its hard to see in the diagram. Its a 1N4007 I'm sure others could be used. It takes the rotor a bit to get up to speed and will need a good spin to start. If you want to play with charging a secondary a FWBR can be added to both ends of the coil windings. The input draw will go up a lot and I have not experimented with it at all. Let me know how it works for you Kip.

    Mark
    Last edited by Mark; 01-02-2011, 08:17 PM. Reason: Where to hook FWBR was wrong.

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    • #47
      Magnets for the 3 pole

      Have not received my magnets so far. Just to be sure before I order some, are these 3/8 dia ceramic magnets?

      Tim

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by chasson321 View Post
        Have not received my magnets so far. Just to be sure before I order some, are these 3/8 dia ceramic magnets?

        Tim
        Me neither.
        The parts list says: 3/8" Dia. Neodymium Magnet
        No thickness or grade is given.
        From measuring the rotor's magnet socket, I get 2/10" thickness.
        I've seen 3/8" dia. by 0.2" thick grade N42 for sale.
        If someone could confirm grade I'd go ahead and buy rather than wait any longer.

        Comment


        • #49
          Thanks a TON

          Originally posted by kippered View Post
          Please keep us updated as to your progress redeagle

          I found some time amongst my holiday madness to redraw my schematic, hope it helps.

          happy holidays all
          An EXCELLENT Schematic. I would post as a PNG - you will find it to come out much smaller.
          I want to get a professional quality assembly document created so even a 6 year old can build this and understand what's going on.

          Thanks!

          Comment


          • #50
            PC Help

            Originally posted by Mark View Post
            Ricardo,

            I'm not able to upload my schematic the file is to big, my computer is too old and junkie, or I'm just not doing it right. If you PM me your email address I can email it to you.

            Mark
            Use pbrush.exe to shrink your schematic as small as you can that is still readable.
            Then save it as a .png file - schematics compress much better with .png than .jpg.
            Hope this helps.

            Comment


            • #51
              Originally posted by sanfords View Post
              An EXCELLENT Schematic. I would post as a PNG - you will find it to come out much smaller.
              I want to get a professional quality assembly document created so even a 6 year old can build this and understand what's going on.

              Thanks!
              Thanks. Keep in mind that I am still changing things as I figure out what works best for me. That schematic has already been changed to have a fixed resistor at the base of each transistor as per Minoly's input and I think it is better that way but I have not found the time to test it fully other than to see it run.

              Good Idea on the doccument, thats what I am trying to do basically but there are allot of variables to test out! Getting it running is not terribly hard but getting ot to run right is a much bigger question

              Thanks for posting the circuit. Be sure to include the diode that connects to the collector of 21194, its hard to see in the diagram. Its a 1N4007 I'm sure others could be used. It takes the rotor a bit to get up to speed and will need a good spin to start. If you want to play with charging a secondary a FWBR can be added to both ends of the coil windings. The input draw will go up a lot and I have not experimented with it at all. Let me know how it works for you Kip.

              Mark
              Will do Mark, it might not be for a little bit because I have to order in some parts (21193) and want to make it a good order and pick an SCR and some other things which require some research

              Me neither.
              The parts list says: 3/8" Dia. Neodymium Magnet
              No thickness or grade is given.
              From measuring the rotor's magnet socket, I get 2/10" thickness.
              I've seen 3/8" dia. by 0.2" thick grade N42 for sale.
              If someone could confirm grade I'd go ahead and buy rather than wait any longer
              They are definetly neo's 3/8" dia and look to be about 0.2" or 3/16" ish
              Last edited by kippered; 01-03-2011, 02:41 AM.

              Comment


              • #52
                Kippered

                I just added a secondary charging battery to the new circuit you posted for me. I'm getting some interesting results, I'll let you know more after further testing. I have the FWBR attached directly to the coil wires, so its only attached to the collector of the 21194 and the start of the coil wires. If that makes sense. I made the correction in my post but it still shows differently in your post where you quoted me (please correct it if your able).

                Mark

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                • #53
                  changed.

                  Look forward to your findings

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Originally posted by kippered View Post
                    They are definetly neo's 3/8" dia and look to be about 0.2" or 3/16" ish
                    Thanks!
                    Hooray!
                    Parts arrived.

                    Magnets are 3/16" thick

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      schematic from conference

                      Talking to a friend who is working on the kit, he recieved a mail from r-charge and it had an attached circuit with pictures. I never recieved that mail but have looked at it now.

                      On the pictures it shows a 'grain of wheat' bulb connected plus the 3 neon's but on the schematic it does not show the 4th bulb.

                      First off I was under the impression the neons are the 'grain of wheat' since that is what they look like and the 4th looks like an LED. The LED is shown in the basic monopole circuit in the trigger portion so my best guess is:

                      Basically I have had problems with the inrush from hooking up the battery inducing enough to turn on the 8099 transistors and then burning it up due to the higher than rated current. I have gotten around this but guess is that the small LED is so the voltage needs to hit a minimum level before turning the transistor on stopping this problem.

                      Sound about right? I am using bigger transistors now and the problem is gone.

                      I get that JB and friends what us to look into the technology and understand what is going on to weed out the people who are not into proper experimenting BUT their big complaint is with people not following the rules and doing what they say... It would save ALLOT of issues if they could be consistent with their schematics.

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        I have yet to look at any of the schematics shipping with the kit; They are too component-specific. This is the schematic I followed and whatever components I use, "it just works"!
                        http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Ch6/Fig16.gif

                        it's off of this page:
                        Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices - Chapter 6

                        which is generally helpful.
                        Last edited by Shanjaq; 01-10-2011, 09:29 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Builds?

                          Any update from the recent kit people?

                          In my frantic spare time I have been able to make some progress including a working automatic cap dump system for putting the generated power into the system. Next I am going to play with coil configurations using my automated switching system that should allow me uniform testing conditions and then its time to perform battery charge tests and plot some data!

                          see the attached revised schematic I am using

                          for the cap dump I am using a 4.7V Zener (as was reccomended on other threads) to trigger my SCR. I learned the 4.7V was necessary if you want to dump at about 2V over battery voltage because of the large voltage drop due to the battery impedance. I also learned it is critical to pick a SCR that has a very low trigger current otherwise it will not turn on.

                          Anyhow the fun really begins with the tests and regardless of outcome has been a fun learning process.
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by kippered; 01-22-2011, 06:11 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            thought I would post this here for anyone w/ the kit that is not already reading over at BM3. there are a couple of challenges afoot here is one of them:
                            Message #15107
                            """""""""""""""""""""""quote"""""""""""""""""""""" """""
                            Re: No radiant charging from 3 Pole Kit from Rennaissance Meeting

                            MODERATORS PLEASE SCREEN ALL RESPONSES TO THSES QUESTIONS!!! LET NO EMAILS
                            THROUGH THAT ARE WORD ONLY.

                            OK, Here is the question I EXPECT ONLY TO BE ANSWERED WITH REAL DATA EXPERIENCE.
                            DO NOT ANSWER THIS IN WORD ONLY. PLEASE SHOW PROOF OF REAL EXPERIMENTAL
                            KNOWLEDGE:

                            1. What did I say about the two critical kinds of time at the Convention?

                            Second question:

                            2. How does the one relate to the primary battery?

                            I will not repeat myself as I have said this 100 times. If no one gets this
                            before the Convention then I will save it till then. But it is up to you guys to
                            think this through and remember all that has been said by me and John over the
                            years.

                            Answer the questions to yourselves and then show us by experimentation how
                            batteries work with the right kinds of time. The first to understand this will
                            have a big smile on their face and will definitely be one of the 10
                            contestants...

                            Rick
                            """""""""""""""""""""""""""""end quote"""""""""""""""""""""""""""


                            Patrick

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                            • #59
                              here is another one:


                              Message #15080
                              """""quote"""""
                              Some years back I showed a little research on my 'School boy' trifilar SSG,
                              where I showed it running off of less than 1ma. During that time I explained
                              part of my success in that method due to turning off the primary battery input
                              going to the motor for a period of time that did not reduce the rpm
                              significantly. Now this is the mysterious and secret S1 (switch 1) that John had
                              in various schematics and models 10 years back and beyond. Seems people who
                              understood that never needed anything else and left the boards soon after they
                              realized what was implied.

                              So who will be the the first, and to get recognition for first showing a stable
                              S1 in the system to drastically reduce input draw off the primary? Brian's last
                              email triggered that thought in my mind by association.

                              So, you have a S1 between Battery 1 and a big capacitor on the positive buss.
                              Cap is right at circuit as close as possible, and the connection to the negative
                              of charging battery remains on the cap and not the primary battery that gets
                              removed occasionally.

                              Now, you hook up some timing mechanism using the gear drive to allow for exact
                              timing. Then you decide how long and frequently you turn on and off S1.

                              I have not seen a lot of discussion about this on the groups. I am sorry if I
                              missed it. But this is a very important thing I have indirectly stressed over
                              the years. All who were there in November heard me stress the several different
                              kinds of time that were important in this process. This I will fully enlarge
                              upon in July. So let's see who can show this first. Show us also how you
                              determined the best frequency and width with data.

                              He who is first and shows significant information and a good presentation should
                              be voted for as one of the 10 contestants.

                              So far I see NO NEW FOLDERS in the file Tom added in the files section for the 3
                              pole contest. Are people interested in this???

                              I give you this experiment as a major help to everyone in this research. It has
                              a lot to do with making a self-runner when combined with similar critical timing
                              of extra energizer coils as I showed on PESWIKI.com

                              Let's see people pull out their experimental knowledge of these systems and
                              apply them to the 3 pole kit. How can you expand on this basic kit to wow
                              everyone???

                              Rick

                              """"end quote"""""


                              patrick

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                              • #60
                                Excellent, lets hope some good results come out of this challenge.

                                I have some great ideas and plans to move forward and will try to be a part of it, unfortunately time is hard to find right now due to life happening.

                                Anyone with good results from the 3 pole kit from the meeting?

                                NOT the 3 pole kit for sale on the web which has a different rotor. Or is everyone moving past it like Rick mentions and not taking the kit to the maximum?

                                I feel my creative intentions are limited by the kit but I am sure there is something I yet need to learn... there likely always will be.

                                My only beef around all the discussion is the usual... Indirect suggestions about this and that and the importance of things after the fact etc...

                                If the concern is that no one is listening to the core concepts then there is most likely a problem with the presentation of material, not the people reading it. Regardless that is for each individual to decide.

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