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  • #16
    Simple ion generator

    I don't know if anyone would be interested in this ? But in an old Popular Electronics or similar magazine, there was a simple way of making an ion
    generator. You use a black light UV bulb with ceramic socket, mount it in a box with holes in it (probably small perforations but enough to allow heat to escape)
    Before you put the top of the box on, aluminum foil, also with holes in it, is placed over the bulb, but not touching it. Make sure there is enough space between the foil and bulb and outside of box so heat can dissipate. I think
    this produced negative ions. I still have an old retail negative ion generator
    but have not used in a long time.

    FRC

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    • #17
      Hi Jetijs, It's funny you mentioned Tesla...

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
        sucahyo, yes, the glow is on the needles only
        Thank you. with uninsulated and insulated copper tangled each other, it glow on meeting surface.

        Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
        This time something different occured. This all is nothing special, but the weird thing is that when this kappened, I could feel warmth coming off the rubber part where electrodes are inside and from the HV wires. It was like infrared radiation. My friend felt it also.
        ...
        This reminds me of what Tesla observed with his distruptive discharges at certain frequencies, that a heating effect can be felt.
        It is possible that you, your friend and tesla are energy sensitive. Orgone sensitive. It is possible that what you felt were male orgone. I think you should replicate that.

        And if you manage to get cold effect instead of heat, try to run the engine without fuel .



        Originally posted by FRC View Post
        I don't know if anyone would be interested in this ? But in an old Popular Electronics or similar magazine, there was a simple way of making an ion generator. You use a black light UV bulb with ceramic socket, mount it in a box with holes in it (probably small perforations but enough to allow heat to escape)
        I wonder how it compare against corona ion.

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        • #19
          sucahyo, I am not very sensitive, my friend makes a lot of orgonites and very powerful ones, most people can feel them, I can not, so the heat I felt from the ionizer was something physical, infrared radiation I would guess.
          It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
            .....

            But after turning the pot more than a certain point, there was a difeer4ent noise, not a hissing, more like a quiet squeal or something. I did not know why this is happening, because usually when I turn the pot more than needed, a spark discharge is happening with a snap sound, that means that the voltage is too high. This time something different occured. This all is nothing special, but the weird thing is that when this kappened, I could feel warmth coming off the rubber part where electrodes are inside and from the HV wires. It was like infrared radiation. My friend felt it also. I was afraid that maybe there is a short and my wires are getting hot, but when I shut the ionizer down, the wires were cool to touch. I mean usually if heat is felt form some 300mm away, the there is a lot of heat in the source and if this would be usual heat from convection, my wires should be melted long ago. Very interesting indeed. When the ionizer was removed form the car, it did not do this anymore on a table. This reminds me of what Tesla observed with his distruptive discharges at certain frequencies, that a heating effect can be felt. And my ionizer is essentially a big spark gap with limited current. This is some food for thought
            Hi Jetijs,

            Could the heat be caused by the carbon content of the rubber? Where the wires are entered they "see" and touch the rubber wall, right? And above a certain kVolt level the carbon starts conducting in the rubber material.
            You could check the rubber for any warming after a short running time again if you have not checked it yet (you checked the electrodes and the wires, right?)
            Just a possibility, rubber normaly contains carbon, the harder it is the more carbon content it has. If this is the case, the warm rubber should be felt as ring just around the wires enters.

            Gyula

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
              sucahyo, I am not very sensitive, my friend makes a lot of orgonites and very powerful ones, most people can feel them, I can not, so the heat I felt from the ionizer was something physical, infrared radiation I would guess.
              I consider orgone effect are physical . it can produce effect on ice, vehicle, human, weather, or other physical thing.

              But you may be right too, do the heat bypassing metal? If it is orgone that you observe, I think the engine will lean up with hot version.

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              • #22
                Amps.

                HI Jet.
                I use the so called Mazilli ZVS circuit to drive a ferrite HV transformer at resonance and almost no switching losses, works great and consumes small power, the transistors do not get hot.
                How many amps. pull your Mazilli ZVS circuit from 12V source?
                thank for ansver
                man70

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                • #23
                  Ozone Generator

                  I have seen some interesting DIY, but your electronics tuning is exactly what I've been interested in.

                  I desire to make an ozonator for my swimming pool with 1g/hr + output to cleanse a 27000ga pool.

                  Mechanically, for the container, I've been considering a wine bottle inside a magnum wine bottle with 'gutter cover' aluminum fabric as the conductor.

                  PET plastic holds O3 ! so I'd get 2 additional GREAT BIG SODA bottles hot glued together with spouts up and down around it all to contain the O3.

                  I'd stand it upright, and O3 is heavier, so I'd just have the bottom hole hosed to the venturi. (the preexisting commercial ozonator .2g/hr already has the venturi connected).

                  The electronics should help me manage the power.
                  I have a Neon Sign transformer, but want to manage power to 0.2-0.5W so it doesn't get hot...dunno if that is enough, but I'll have to experiment.

                  The fuse/breaker is important near the pool because of the 7kV transformer (120v source). I'd want to rest the unit vertically at 4' hanging in my wood shed pump room and the O3 hose down to the venture In port.

                  All of this on a plugged timer so it runs cwithin pump cycles.

                  Any ideas to consider ?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by stopher View Post
                    I desire to make an ozonator for my swimming pool with 1g/hr + output to cleanse a 27000ga pool.
                    How about acidic water? All you need is some salt water to create your own chlorin with electrolyzer? Some mention the percentage of chlorin needed for this kind of method is much less than usual chlorin needed. There is some example of use in public water treatment too.

                    You flow the acidic part of the split flowing water electrolysis result to your pool.

                    The technology sometimes called kangen water. Basically separating water plus and minus via electrolysis.

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                    • #25
                      PCB Board help

                      I was trying my luck at making my first PCB. I would like to make this Ozone generator here and would like someone to look at it and let me know if it would work. Have made a few circuit boards but I had a big mess of wires running everywhere. Also something was mentioned about a 3 watt 3-5 mohms resistor put in. Where should it go?
                      Attached Files

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                      • #26
                        Hi reddb49,
                        looks good. To test it, just solder the voltage step up part first and see if it can be adjusted from 12-28V by turning the variable resistor. If yes, solder the rest of the circuit. The 5MOhm resistor goes in series of the HV output of the flyback transformer. It limits the high voltage to some mA current, this breaks the arc and makes a fine steady ionization. If it is not there, an arc could jump from positive electrode to ground grid and sustain itself drawing lots of current and doing no good. So it is essential that this resistor is put there.
                        It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

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                        • #27
                          Thanks Jetijs,

                          I will get the board and fluid first part of the week, get it printed out and get my parts ordered from Mouser. Might take me a while to get the board like I want but will get there. Thanks for the info.

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                          • #28
                            copper pipe system

                            Jetis you hsow a copper pipe grid wha t seperates the pipe from the wire ?

                            looking to make a large system have several 9k transformers

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