Powers SG help for Slovakia

[Powers]

Helo im Powers from Slovakia my english is bad
I need help with bedini SG

my parameters:
2N3055 tranzistor
470 ohm 2w rezistor
25 ohm 5 w rezistor
Coil is bifilar 850 turn
core is steel from old big rele (maybe this is problem)
Rotor is 20" cyklo aluminium,
15 ferits magnets 50mmx30mmx15mm LengtxWidthxHeight
North out
wheell spins well
whole structure only litte vibrate (hm..)
Both bateries is 12V 1.3Ah PB

My bateries before start
Primary 12.7V is fully charget
Sekondary 11.5V discharged
booth batieries is new

I start I started my device and the voltage was gradually increased to a secondary to 11.6V Voltage increased only very slowly
3 hours charging voltage and the secondary is only 11.75V
Primary battery dropped to 12.05V

I repeated the charge but the result was always similar to
Every discharge secondary batteries will not fully charge ..
For example i have a 12 volt secondary battery is discharged at 9V
starts well voltage is increased to 10V+ but it is only slowly increasing
At 11 volts only very slowly increase, for example 11V to 11.3V charging nearly 2 hoursAt 11.7 V voltage not grow only only very slowly ,
But main battery declining

where is the problem? pls help im newbie

[Farmhand]

Hello Powers, Welcome to the forum, I can start to help you I think.

This Starters Guide has a lot of info in there, much more than can be posted it's well worth a look.

http://freenrg.info/Bedini/SSG_STARTERS_GUIDE-Two.pdf

Now a couple of points

1. you may need to adjust the gap between the core and the magnets.

2. you may want to try more magnets, or the wheel will need to spin faster, ( I have 18 on a 27 inch wheel they line up with the spokes for even spacing) less magnets will require faster spinning to achieve proper tuning.

3. it does pay to ballance the wheel a bit of course, ( I used hot glue, mine wasn't far out ) by removing the coil the wheel can spin freely, when it stops put some weight at he top and trial and error untill the wheel will stay where you put it as far as practical anyway, no need to be too precise.

4. The tuning is important, better results with one pulse per magnet pass, you can use a normal AM radio to hear the pulses. The starters guide shows another way. The input power will drop when the device reaches a state of electromagnetic equilibrium, I think is the term, that will be the most efficient mode of operation. However a little bit past this point is better charging in my opinion. If you place a 14v 2 or 5 watt globe in the trigger line to the pot you can see the globe will get bright then dim when going in to tune. This happens when achieving two pulses per pass then again even more pronounced when one pulse per pass is achieved.

Others or I will help if you have any more questions. Just ask.


Good luck.
Cheers

P.S. I wouldn't intentionally discharge those batteries to any less than 12.2 volts, 12 volts minimum. To condition the batteries properly you would want to charge them with the SSG to over 15 volts under charge, and discharge them a few times. That is what will increase the capacity and lower the resistance in the battery to optimum, a battery that is conditioned is very, very easy to charge afterwards. The thing is, if the battery is spending time below 11.8 volts or so it is resulfating as you are trying to desulfate it, a lead acid battery begins to sulfate at around 11.7 volts I think, if you don't let it get below that you will make much better progress. No need to make work to undo.

[faramog]

Hi Powers.

I went through a similar path to you (god was it only a month ago!!). A few points I have learned and been advised on.

1. 2n3055 is a poor transistor. It is slow to switch and has a max CE voltage of 60V. You are certain to blow it. Never run the energiser without the load battery on. If you can't get any transistors with higher CE voltage (TIP41c was the best I tried until I got the very expensive MJL21194), consider fitting a zener diode across the collector-emitter. I would suggest 50V max (2 or 3 in series to make the voltage up would be fine). They must be very fast and have a decent power dissipation (0.5w at least)

2. With the core removed, spin the wheel with a good tug and time until it stops. My first attempt had a free spin of about 4 mins. I took the bearings out, cleaned off the grease and put them back. Don't tighten too much .. a little loose. Put some light oil in (3 in 1 is what I used). My spin was up to 8-9 mins. Then I added weights in between the magnets (two large washers total weight of 0.8KG). This gives a flywheel effect and no I have a free rotation of 12 minutes. To get better I will need to remove the axle and use a separate bearing. The result of this with the same coil arrangement was an rpm going form circa 70 to around 150... that twice the pulses.

3. I had a large load battery that took probably 100 hours to clean itself. It was an old battery. My next 'old one' seems to be taking longer, but the charge voltage has risen from about 11 to 13.6 - the resistance is lowering as it cleans - its not quick !

4. Core for your coil. I use welding rods (as Bedini suggests) mild steel with a copper coat. If you only have mild steel rods, then insulate each one with laquer of several coats of nail polish. This is to minimise the eddy currents when they start to saturate: this limits the 'push' of the coil when the field collapses and acts as a magnetic drag.

Keep at it ...

[Powers]

Thank you very much

Yesterday I swapped resistors 470 ohm 25ohm potnciometer for 1kOhm potentiometer + 100 ohm resistor + subtle 12V bulb of such as is recommended on the instructions I have added a subtle Neno bulb on E-C, neon bulb lights (flashing) if odpopje the Second battery charge batiery. interesting is that it increases the resistance of the potentiometer to a lot of neon lights ohm more

and consumption drops from 110 mA to 80 mA

Second battery was discharged at 12.05V primary ma 12.80 BEDINI wheel is still running when I will come from work try to end and measure the battery ... This time, tensions grew better than before

my future plans

improve rotor
add 1 magnet + stop vibrations
add welding rod core
replace the transistor there is a problem but I am from Slovak MJL21194
tip 41c so super

At home I have BU 408 and 3055 TIP

BU408 Datasheet pdf - NPN Epitaxial Silicon Transistor - Fairchild Semiconductor
TIP3055 Datasheet pdf - COMPLEMENTARY SILICON POWER TRANSISTORS - SGS Thomson Microelectronics

Verry thanks from slovakia

[Farmhand]

Thank you very much

Yesterday I swapped resistors 470 ohm 25ohm potnciometer for 1kOhm potentiometer + 100 ohm resistor + subtle 12V bulb of such as is recommended on the instructions I have added a subtle Neno bulb on E-C, neon bulb lights (flashing) if odpopje the Second battery charge batiery. interesting is that it increases the resistance of the potentiometer to a lot of neon lights ohm more

and consumption drops from 110 mA to 80 mA

Second battery was discharged at 12.05V primary ma 12.80 BEDINI wheel is still running when I will come from work try to end and measure the battery ... This time, tensions grew better than before

my future plans

improve rotor
add 1 magnet + stop vibrations
add welding rod core
replace the transistor there is a problem but I am from Slovak MJL21194
tip 41c so super

At home I have BU 408 and 3055 TIP

BU408 Datasheet pdf - NPN Epitaxial Silicon Transistor - Fairchild Semiconductor
TIP3055 Datasheet pdf - COMPLEMENTARY SILICON POWER TRANSISTORS - SGS Thomson Microelectronics

Verry thanks from slovakia

I am happy we could help, 1K Pot and 100ohm resistor is what I use. If your small globe do's not glow at all you can replace it with a lower wattage one then when the trigger current changes the brightness of the globe will change and it time you will be able to tune it to different batteries and alter charge time by using the bulbs brightness and "feel" as a tuning aid.

I would not advise running your SSG without a charge battery or other load connected. This device "energiser" is designed to produce high voltage flyback spikes, sometimes over 400 volts, if no charge battery is connected the voltage spikes can damage your transistor and the machine will draw extra current and run abnormally. The neon should prevent transistor damage though the machine will still run inefficiently. I accidentally disconnect mine while its runng a few times and burned about 5 or 6 transistors before I got a good NE2 neon.

You are doing much better than I first did. It's good to hear the battery charged better.

You have good plans for improvements too.

The BU 408 looks like a very good transitor, the 3055 TIP is ok too.

Cheers

[Powers]

good day

the first test ended well
secondary battery is charged

Now testing recoverability battery (desulfate)
source associated with the car charger I have Bedini
I want to charge the Battery is 6V power but discharged on 2 that I can restore it
When I joined Nenon glowing but less than the battery disconnected. Neon lights with only one electrode is connected to the emitter hmm .. ?

--------------------------------------
you write something about yourself
my name is ivan from slovakia
education I have normal to high school graduation
Worked as a laborer in a factory to take care of humidity and temperature
bediniho want to build because I see one of the paths to energy independence.
In Slovakia there are bad conditions, governmental economical mafia here, the opposite value as tesco stores sell manufactures defects can not withstand even the guarantee of, a meal here is itself a replacement, I have 23 years and I would like to build a family house
price is 131 362 USD My monthly salary is 517USD. I do not have a chance to get together and build a house
the only way is to loan up to 60 years it is pure slavery. Many people are blind
1 liter runs worth USD 1.6 These are our conditions

Greetings ivan

[Powers]

Hi I have problem
I wound coil 3filar

Triger a thin wire
2 power thick wire

2x transistor 3055 on a single potentiometer
problem is:
if I have disconnected secondary batteries
ampere are 0:06 mA wheel spins

If you connect a second battery ampere will increase 0.20,
and wheel stops spinning: ((figure 1)

If you connect both seknudary bats (Figure 2) and also the wheel stops spinning

If you connect the secondary battery in series wheel spins
ampere are 0:07 mA

where is the problem?

Thank you for help I spend a lot of time ... And the result is out
I would like secondary batteries Charge 1 and 2 in parallel not in series because I have any other 1.3Ah and 12V 7Ah
ListenRead phonetically

[Powers]

Hi my last upgrade is the addition of "Tesla switch" ba bednini ssg circuit, I think it's more efficient ...
I checked that it works from the idea romerouk
with reed switch and coil ...
greetings from slovakia

[Guruji]

SSG solidstate

Hi Powers.

I went through a similar path to you (god was it only a month ago!!). A few points I have learned and been advised on.

1. 2n3055 is a poor transistor. It is slow to switch and has a max CE voltage of 60V. You are certain to blow it. Never run the energiser without the load battery on. If you can't get any transistors with higher CE voltage (TIP41c was the best I tried until I got the very expensive MJL21194), consider fitting a zener diode across the collector-emitter. I would suggest 50V max (2 or 3 in series to make the voltage up would be fine). They must be very fast and have a decent power dissipation (0.5w at least)

2. With the core removed, spin the wheel with a good tug and time until it stops. My first attempt had a free spin of about 4 mins. I took the bearings out, cleaned off the grease and put them back. Don't tighten too much .. a little loose. Put some light oil in (3 in 1 is what I used). My spin was up to 8-9 mins. Then I added weights in between the magnets (two large washers total weight of 0.8KG). This gives a flywheel effect and no I have a free rotation of 12 minutes. To get better I will need to remove the axle and use a separate bearing. The result of this with the same coil arrangement was an rpm going form circa 70 to around 150... that twice the pulses.

3. I had a large load battery that took probably 100 hours to clean itself. It was an old battery. My next 'old one' seems to be taking longer, but the charge voltage has risen from about 11 to 13.6 - the resistance is lowering as it cleans - its not quick !

4. Core for your coil. I use welding rods (as Bedini suggests) mild steel with a copper coat. If you only have mild steel rods, then insulate each one with laquer of several coats of nail polish. This is to minimise the eddy currents when they start to saturate: this limits the 'push' of the coil when the field collapses and acts as a magnetic drag.

Keep at it ...

Hi faramog the old battery that you've revived held the charge? Cause I never managed to revive one maybe because of the 2n3055 then? Once revived can it be used on a car?
Thanks