How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

[lowriderzzz]

Yes the water sits at the bottom. I'll leave the separation question to someone with more knowledge as I don't want to fill the thread with false information.

The distance isn't that big of an issue as long as things are insulated properly and you don't have excess heat making its way over to the condenser. A diagonal pipe sloping downwards is what you want between the reflux and condenser. Otherwise your fuel will accumulate at the horizontal pipe. Unless you know how your catalyst reacts and the fuel type it produces I would suggest keeping a close eye on your condenser. A cold condenser with no catalyst during plastic pyrolysis will clog up with wax.

OK i will re arrange it with diagonal pipe so I avoid fuel collecting in the pipe.

I will use catalyst in the REFLUX column but should I have catalyst in the condenser ?

My condenser is hollow pipe with another smaller pipe in it through which will run water from a pump (to cool the hot vapors to a liquid).

Actually I don't know what what temperature I should maintain my condenser ? For the purpose of making diesel.

Thanks

[mjohnson1]

maybe initially I will choose the water/steam method.
Well the water is heavier than fuel so it will remain on the bottom - that's basic plain separation isn't it ?

What do you think about the vertical connecting pipe that goes from reflux to condenser ? Do you think it is suitable that way or I should disanance away a bit the retort and make the pipe go diagonal between reflux and condenser ?

Thanks

Yes the water sits at the bottom. I'll leave the separation question to someone with more knowledge as I don't want to fill the thread with false information.

The distance isn't that big of an issue as long as things are insulated properly and you don't have excess heat making its way over to the condenser. A diagonal pipe sloping downwards is what you want between the reflux and condenser. Otherwise your fuel will accumulate at the horizontal pipe. Unless you know how your catalyst reacts and the fuel type it produces I would suggest keeping a close eye on your condenser. A cold condenser with no catalyst during plastic pyrolysis will clog up with wax.

[lowriderzzz]

lowriderzzz, I find it a mistake to try to do too much condensing in too short a time/distance, so I accommodate many stages of condensation in several horizontal condenser traps works well for my pyrolysis unit. Doing so also allows me to fractionate my vapor stream on the fly.

Also, on your water condenser, water should always enter at the bottom and exit out the top, which will assure your condenser is full of water, and not air.

I tried to replicate the imakebiodiesel design for his waste to kerosine unit from this video. That's is why I have only one condenser.

For my condenser water is going through the inner pipe and the vapor remain in the big pipe. What is the difference if the water comes from top to bottom or bottom to top ?

[Beyond Biodiesel]

lowriderzzz, I find it a mistake to try to do too much condensing in too short a time/distance, so I accommodate many stages of condensation in several horizontal condenser traps works well for my pyrolysis unit. Doing so also allows me to fractionate my vapor stream on the fly.

Also, on your water condenser, water should always enter at the bottom and exit out the top, which will assure your condenser is full of water, and not air.

[lowriderzzz]

lowriderzzz

I don't see any inlet for a purge gas. Are you planning on using steam to purge your retort of oxygen?

Using steam means you'll end up with water (albeit a very small amount) in your fuel after you're finished unless you have some way to separate them.

maybe initially I will choose the water/steam method.
Well the water is heavier than fuel so it will remain on the bottom - that's basic plain separation isn't it ?

What do you think about the vertical connecting pipe that goes from reflux to condenser ? Do you think it is suitable that way or I should disanance away a bit the retort and make the pipe go diagonal between reflux and condenser ?

Thanks

[mjohnson1]

lowriderzzz

I don't see any inlet for a purge gas. Are you planning on using steam to purge your retort of oxygen?

Using steam means you'll end up with water (albeit a very small amount) in your fuel after you're finished unless you have some way to separate them.

[lowriderzzz]

The pressure inside a retort should not exceed one tenth of one bar so yes your pressure gauge is not going to be useful.

I have posted the video on viscosity which may be of interest to anyone producing their own fuels either by pyrolysis, distillation or simple blending.

Falling Ball Viscometer - YouTube

IMB Biodiesel Processors

Thank you - will get myself a smaller scale pressure gauge so.

What do you think about the connecting pipe - reflux - condenser. Do you think vertical is OK like on the image or a diagonal like your CP unit is better ?

[imakebiodiesel]

The pressure inside a retort should not exceed one tenth of one bar so yes your pressure gauge is not going to be useful.

I have posted the video on viscosity which may be of interest to anyone producing their own fuels either by pyrolysis, distillation or simple blending.

Falling Ball Viscometer - YouTube

IMB Biodiesel Processors

[mtrans]

pressure in retort is less than 1bar,by me ofcorse.

[lowriderzzz]

Almost ready with my installment.

Hey guys I just wanted to check my system. How do you think. Do you think my retort and heating is too close to the cooling condenser.

How about the long vertical pipe that is taking away the gases from the reflux to the condenser. Do you think I should put a valve somewhere along it ? Or should I distance more the retort and the condenser and make the pipe go diagonal ?

I just tested the "U" shaped piping for the fuel outlet and it is working just great.



Another quick question regarding pressure. Do you think this pressure gauge that I have will indicate if there is a bit of pressure. It was taken from an air compressor that is designed to out stand high pressures and I know this system should be of no pressure.



Any other comments will be well appreciated.

Thank you

[imakebiodiesel]

I have done away with the plain water scrubber because the KOH solution was doing the same job but better. I add KOH or NaOH until I have a Ph of 12. I check for any change after every batch. So far no change but then I am very careful not to put any wrong plastics into my retort.
I use a 10% solution of sodium hypochlorite and have observed no change in it either. 50% solution will do but might be overkill.

[Col]

Scrubbers

I have just finished constructing my latest scrubber for my new reactor. It consists if 3 x 20litre bubblers in series.
The first contains plain water and has a ph meter built in to detect acidification. This should deal will HCl and possibly HFl gas.
The second is a solution of potassium hydroxide which should neutralize any acidic gas.
The third is a solution of sodium hypochlorite to neutralize any hydrogen cyanide.
.

Hi IMBD

Can you suggest what pH we should initially set the 2nd scrubber at. I expect a pH of 4 would be enough to start with and see how quickly it is neutralised and top up as required.

"At the various nerve agent destruction facilities throughout the United States, 50% sodium hypochlorite is used as a means of removing all traces of nerve agent (HCN) - Wiki" I expect a 50% solution in the 3rd scrubber would do the job, your thoughts?

Thanks
Col

[Excalibur]

i want your help really

i put my plastic with bentonit calcuime 10%
in oven 480 degree for 4 hours with pipe to get the vapor but i get nothing at all ???

can any one tells me where is the wrong ????

There could be multiple things wrong.
Please post up some good, clear pictures of your set up, including temperature monitoring equipment, pipework and any reflux condenser.

[Excalibur]

I have heard that material suspended in WMO will fall out easier if the WMO is dosed with a bit of solvent like kero. I guess that makes sense simply on the basis of a change in the viscosity of the WMO. So cleaning up the WMO will be easier once blended with kero to match viscosity of diesel. So blend first, then clean up the final fuel? Used hydraulic oil is suitable I suppose?

What is the best way to get rid of water content? My kero source will have some water in it. I don't really want to heat it to 110C to boil out the water if I don't have to, don't get me wrong, I know I've scored here and am happy to work to get a good final product but in terms of conserving fuel and labour would it be better to drain free water then drip it through some absorbent material like the stuff some of the veggie oil guys use? Is it just the same as the stuff used for plant water retaining gel / crystals or kitty wee crystals? Water block filters will absorb water and expand to the point of blocking the filter, not letting any more fluid pass until you change out the cartridge. But that can be expensive. I've seen some other polymer crystals that seem to absorb anything that is not hydrocarbon-based - Bluegrass Fuel Systems, LLC - The FP Filtration Media I figure it could only be beneficial to have such an absorbent and if you separate out the majority of water before passing the fuel through this polymer it appears to have a long life / high absorbing capacity. Are the plant crystals or kitty wee crystals safe to run fuel through? the mystery polymer crystals could be good to turn acidic fuel into good fuel, as the website demonstrates its capacity to absorb acids etc.
Anyone have any comments?
Thanks
Col

Yes, blend first, then centrifuge/filter. Yes, hydraulic oil is one of the best. I tested some crystals for water removal in vege oil with good results else centrifuging could work well enough. I have made a simple centrifuge, view it on my blog pages.
I suggest we continue chatting on the BBD forum as we are straying too far away from the topic of this thread. I have some ideas which you are welcome to pick over.

[Excalibur]

Thank you dear friend for promptly upgrading the blog , good implimentation of ideas , have you tested the device practically .

What may be the ideal volume ratio of reactor and draw back arrestor . In your case volume of reactor is 50 Ltr while the yellow cylinder seems to be 4Ltr then if I am right it has 12:1 ratio

I wonder if you have misunderstood the principle? The volume of the yellow cylinder only need exceed the effective volume of water that the red bubbler has. See this earlier post where I talk about the principle, then in the following post, Imakebiodiesel helpfully shows an amended schematic illustration. Note, the difference in the earlier illustration of post# 2509.

Hope this clarifies it for you