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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

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  • hı Jetijs

    hı Jetijs
    ı made that machine in your message and ı produced the fuel but that is very flameable.The diesel is not very flameable.Our producte is neither gasoline nor diesel. Thats density is 0,75 gr/cm3. That is very explosive and very oiled. so if ı use that in gasoline engine ,that make oiled the spark plug. and if ı use that in diesel engine ,that make explotion. What will ı make the fuel to refine. how ı obtain the diesel fuel?

    Comment


    • Your fuel is a mixture of diesel, kerosene and petrol. Do the BP test to it to find out what it is made of.

      Comment


      • Dear jetis

        Hı my name is mesut, ı live in turkey. ı made your machine according to your machine pictures. and ı made fuel, but that fuel is neither gasoline nor diesel. because that is very evoparating and oiled. how wil ı seperate diesel from gasoline? Do you have any project about distilling column?

        Comment


        • diesel

          Originally posted by imakebiodiesel View Post
          Your fuel is a mixture of diesel, kerosene and petrol. Do the BP test to it to find out what it is made of.
          Hi imakebiodiesel, I went out and go a hot plate today and done a BP test,
          I put in 150gm after 15mins it stop boiling at 175c, we was left with 80gm,
          then boiled it for 15mins again at 260c we was left with 30gm of diesel it smell a lot like oil as well i know u said 100gm i did that to little and to long 30mins but any way we got a result i think, so how do we get over this little problem,

          Comment


          • Originally posted by palmtrees View Post
            Hi do u have any pis of the fuel u have made

            This thread describes my process of distilling WMO
            Batch Process Distilling Waste Motor Oil (WMO)
            I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.

            Comment


            • Palmtrees, by my calculation your fuel is 47% petrol, 33% kerosene and 20% diesel. This would suggest that you certainly got very effective cracking.
              A simple reflux still can be used to separate these fuels.
              In my outfit I produce a mixture that is 75% kerosene and 25% petrol. ( I dont want diesel) So I heat up my boiler until the temperature at the top of the reflux column is 175C. All of the petrol boils off and is condensed and collected while the kerosene remains in the boiler. If I had diesel in the mix I would repeat the procedure at 260C and this time the kerosene would be boiled off.

              If you only want diesel and petrol then choose a cut halfway between 175 and 260, that way you will get a slightly "heavy " petrol and a slightly "light" diesel.

              In future batches you could try to arrange 2 or 3 condensere, the first one hot for diesel the second one warm for kerosene and the third one cold for petrol.

              Comment


              • You are right, 10 minutes boiling time is enough with a small 100gm sample , so I have changed my description of the BP test.

                THE BP TEST.

                EQUIPMENT
                A thermometer capable of measuring up to 300C ( available on Ebay at about 5 pounds sterling). An electric hotplate, a small saucepan or pot. A digital kitchen scales.
                METHOD
                A 100 gm sample of crude liquid fuel is placed in an open pot on an electric hotplate and brought up to 175C for 10 minutes in a well ventilated place. After that it is weighed and the missing grams are the petrol/gasoline content. The remaining sample is now heated to 260C for 10 minutes and weighed again. The missing grams are kerosene and the remaining weight is diesel.
                TIPS,
                10 minutes is usually enough but if the fuel is still bubbling vigorously after 10 minutes give it a bit longer.
                Ventilate your workspace and dont spend any more time breathing the vapours than necessary.
                Place a book or magazine on you digital scales to protect it from the heat.
                Last edited by imakebiodiesel; 03-16-2013, 06:37 PM. Reason: mistake

                Comment


                • diesel

                  Originally posted by imakebiodiesel View Post
                  Palmtrees, by my calculation your fuel is 47% petrol, 33% kerosene and 20% diesel. This would suggest that you certainly got very effective cracking.
                  A simple reflux still can be used to separate these fuels.
                  In my outfit I produce a mixture that is 75% kerosene and 25% petrol. ( I dont want diesel) So I heat up my boiler until the temperature at the top of the reflux column is 175C. All of the petrol boils off and is condensed and collected while the kerosene remains in the boiler. If I had diesel in the mix I would repeat the procedure at 260C and this time the kerosene would be boiled off.

                  If you only want diesel and petrol then choose a cut halfway between 175 and 260, that way you will get a slightly "heavy " petrol and a slightly "light" diesel.

                  In future batches you could try to arrange 2 or 3 condensere, the first one hot for diesel the second one warm for kerosene and the third one cold for petrol.
                  Hi Thank u for that back to the drawing board, last night i had the reactor on and the temp at the bottom was 640 C that is 1184 F that is out side temp will be different in side do u know, i think my reflux is to big as well i will try a smaller one to day and see,

                  Comment


                  • Those high temeratures explain at least in part why you are getting so much cracking. Try to keep your retort temperatures between 385c and 425c to get best results. A smaller or hotter reflux will help also. If you have not already try insulating your reflux. column.

                    Comment


                    • If the feedstock really was at 640c, that would have to be a boil-over situation. Make a probe for a thermocouple. Perhaps something like this
                      Agreed, 385c-425c is the target range
                      http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

                      Comment


                      • diesel

                        Originally posted by imakebiodiesel View Post
                        Those high temeratures explain at least in part why you are getting so much cracking. Try to keep your retort temperatures between 385c and 425c to get best results. A smaller or hotter reflux will help also. If you have not already try insulating your reflux. column.
                        Hi thank u, you see a lot of info on the web saying u need the reactor temp at 425-700 or more, so what i have done is started to build a small set up and start from there if that works i will build a bigger one, i want to make three types of fuel diesel petrol kerosene

                        Comment


                        • diesel

                          Originally posted by Excalibur View Post
                          If the feedstock really was at 640c, that would have to be a boil-over situation. Make a probe for a thermocouple. Perhaps something like this
                          Agreed, 385c-425c is the target range
                          Hi thank u, i will order one of those today,

                          Comment


                          • The higher the temperature in the retort the greater proportion of gas and light distillates you will get.
                            I agree with excalibur you need to fit temp probes so that you can control the temps. One in the top of the retort and one in the top of the reflux is best.

                            Comment


                            • hı imakebiodiesel

                              thx for your info
                              but ı have a question for you,
                              What ı should? firstly temprature will be increased 400 c and ı should open the valf to distilling, or step by step

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by imakebiodiesel View Post
                                The higher the temperature in the retort the greater proportion of gas and light distillates you will get.
                                I agree with excalibur you need to fit temp probes so that you can control the temps. One in the top of the retort and one in the top of the reflux is best.
                                I had my probes in those positions too but I discovered I got a better response by putting the probe at the bottom of the retort. My probe was in the same piece of pipe that the vapors travelled through on there way to the reflux, so consequently when refluxed fluid ran back to the retort it quenched the probe. This cause erratic gyrations in the reading. I extended the probe to just short of the bottom on a hunch it would be more stable. In the new mk6 build I think I'll insert a probe in the base of the retort plus one at the top but off to the side and one in the reflux top.
                                http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

                                Comment

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