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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

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  • thread seal

    hi all,

    1st, thanks everybody for sharing this kwowledge; it's inspiring!!
    i have been preparing and reading for a while, read the 1st 6 pages of the forum from a to z and randomly a lot as well; cant find what to use to seal the threads; teflon tape loctite 5770?? thanks

    got my bubbler, 1st condenser and coolpipe ready, i attached a pic
    Attached Files
    Last edited by martijn0001; 10-27-2013, 07:24 PM.

    Comment


    • Welcome martijn0001

      Threads, like pipe threads at the retort and reflux area don't seal with Teflon tape or Loctite 5 series. There's too much heat for those. They deteriorate quickly and leak gas and condensate. This poses fire risk plus strong, objectionable smell.
      I don't use pipe threaded fittings in the 200*C+ hot areas now in favor of flanges with taper seal or solid copper gasket. Also welded-on mac unions work OK.
      I looked for the thread seal ideas from members posts and there's been a number of posts especially in recent times. I couldn't find any but memory says some kind of furnace cement and sodium silicate aka water glass are known to hold up ok.
      http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

      Comment


      • Originally posted by martijn0001 View Post
        hi all,

        1st, thanks everybody for sharing this kwowledge; it's inspiring!!
        i have been preparing and reading for a while, read the 1st 6 pages of the forum from a to z and randomly a lot as well; cant find what to use to seal the threads; teflon tape loctite 5770?? thanks

        got my bubbler, 1st condenser and coolpipe ready, i attached a pic
        Teflon tape is really the best seal, other than a compression fitting, up to about 500F (260c). Anti-gal compound on a tapered thread fitting has been known to work up to 1200F (650c). Sodium Silicate is good to about 1200F (650c) also. Otherwise, I agree with Excalibur flanged fittings with graphite composite seals, or metal-to-metal seals, are best. Brass fittings will work up to about 700F (370c), above that steel or stainless steel is best.
        I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.

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        • pyrolysis photos

          my pyrolysis photos
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Beyond Biodiesel View Post
            Anti-gal compound on a tapered thread fitting has been known to work up to 1200F (650c). Sodium Silicate is good to about 1200F (650c) also. Otherwise, I agree with Excalibur flanged fittings with graphite composite seals, or metal-to-metal seals, are best. Brass fittings will work up to about 700F (370c), above that steel or stainless steel is best.
            I am Dutch, google didn't help; what's anti gal compound??
            For my "door" to the reator i have a 6" flange with a stainless steel/graphite seal that should be good to 500°C.

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            • martijn0001
              BB is probably referring to Anti galling compound, an anti-seize product often used on threads. I'm not able to recommend the types: Loctite nickel antiseize or Copr Kote for the task. On each occasion both have migrated out of the thread causing leakage. Both become "runny" with heat.

              jonathan
              Thanks for the photo. You've put in a lot of work!
              Insulation would greatly improve the efficiency.
              Temperature monitoring is the key. The retort really needs a thermocouple. At a pinch, for the reflux you could use an old oven gauge from a coal range which are simple bimetallic. Other places where temps are much lower, cheap digital gauges are useful.
              http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

              Comment


              • retort problem

                thanks excalibur l have digital tempreture controller but l have proplem with sensor it leaks gas l will upload pics so for my pyrolysis system did you think my proplem was from heat? reflux tower was so hot after 1 hour but the top of reflux and pipe that exit to first condensor was normal l leave my hand on it so if you can help me did l want to have pipe from top reflux to first condensor to hot let say 260 degrees celsius? thanks
                Attached Files

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                • jonathan

                  I think you should:

                  1/. check there is no blockage
                  2/. Remedy the sensor leak
                  3/. Fit a thermocouple to reflux
                  4/. Ensure bubbler is operational after last condenser
                  5/. Waste oil as feedstock while you diagnose

                  Start the heat. Look for bubbles @bubbler. Any water in the oil will turn to steam and bubble around 100*C and could be vigorous. Then a period of calm in bubbler before gases come. Aim for 400*C in retort, 300*C in reflux. Bubbles indicate gas flow. Heat in reflux and pipework indicate gas flow.
                  Bring heat up slow and steady. Avoid rapid increases in temperature.
                  The figures given are approximate so tweak from there.
                  http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

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                  • retort problem

                    ok thanks l will check everything

                    Comment


                    • Has anybody used LPG tanks as source of fuel to heat the plastic?

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by martijn0001 View Post
                        I am Dutch, google didn't help; what's anti gal compound??
                        For my "door" to the reator i have a 6" flange with a stainless steel/graphite seal that should be good to 500°C.
                        Yes, it is also known as anti-seize. It can be tricky to use. Your 6" flange stainless steel with a graphite seal is great.
                        Originally posted by jonathan View Post
                        thanks excalibur l have digital tempreture controller but l have proplem with sensor it leaks gas ...
                        I use a few of those sensors as well; however, they are all mounted in blind holes in on my retort, so that I do not have to worry about a leak. Those sensors do not have a tapered thread, so they will need a seal against the flanged nut that drives the sensor into a screw hole. You might try cutting to fit a graphite paper seal for that.
                        I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.

                        Comment


                        • mtrozier56

                          Originally posted by megalomax View Post
                          Has anybody used LPG tanks as source of fuel to heat the plastic?
                          Yes, i currently use LPG gas as my heat source, the trick is to have a high pressure burner and high pressure regulator.

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                          • retort problem

                            thanks beyond biodiesel its a good idea for the sensor if you have a photo l will understand you more.l open my retort today l find that lot of plastic was same as l put them so my proplem was not heating enough.the plastic that is already melting can l heat it agian or l have to remove it? thanks

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by jonathan View Post
                              thanks beyond biodiesel its a good idea for the sensor if you have a photo l will understand you more.l open my retort today l find that lot of plastic was same as l put them so my proplem was not heating enough.the plastic that is already melting can l heat it agian or l have to remove it? thanks
                              Reheat is OK
                              http://diydiesel.blogspot.co.nz/

                              Comment


                              • retort problem

                                thanks excalibur when l have time l do insulation and check temretures l will upload my result thanks alot

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