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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply
Jonathan, BB has touched on a very cheap, affordable solution for your needs. DIY refractory firebrick.
I suggest to Google the topic: How to make refractory brick, Homemade Castable Refractories, DIY fireclay, etc. Also BB has done a lot of testing of various affordable solutions. See pyrolysis section at BB website.
Two types of firebrick for consideration is the dense firebrick and the porous firebrick. The dense one is known for being a storage of heat while the porous lightweight one will be an insulator and not store heat well at all.
Porous firebrick can be made by adding organic or combustible material to the brick recipe which burns out during firing. This makes for thousands of tiny air pockets throughout the brick.
Hope this helps.
Jonathan, BB has touched on a very cheap, affordable solution for your needs. DIY refractory firebrick... Also BB has done a lot of testing of various affordable solutions. See pyrolysis section at BB website...
I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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But I have a problem waste and solid waste by 30% of the raw materials I faced great difficulty in taking them out of the reactor because it is attached to, at the tips?
Welcome, dedooo. It looks like you have a proper flange on the top of your retort, and your gas burner setup looks well done as well. What did you do for insulation? It looks like mud, or something liquide, and poured in then set?
Cleaning out the retort can be a real problem, so a flange top and bottom can help, so that you can scrape from the top, and debris can fall through the bottom flange.
Another option for cleaning out the retort after your cracking run is, if you are absolutely sure that your retort has fully cracked and extracted all of the liquid hydrocarbons, so that there is only coking remaining, then you can introduce air into your retort, by cracking open a valve and carefully watching the retort temperature. The temperature should rise to 1200F (650c) as the carbon burns. You can keep adding air, while carefully watching the temperature, and keeping it at 1200F (650c).
NOTE:
At this time you will want to valve off your retort to your fractionation column, and vent it directly out.
At this point you can turn off the heat, because the coke will keep the retort hot until all of the coke is burned off. When all of the coke is burned, then the temperature of your retort will start to drop significantly. When all of the coke is burned you will just have ash to remove. That ash can be used as catalyst for the next run.
I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
Dedooo, looks like your reactor waste is not fully cracked. When a run is totally completed the residue is like dry carbon char, something like biscuit in texture. I suggest to do multiple runs before clearing out the reactor, but on the last run be sure and bake well so the contents is absolutely dry.
In theory, as fuel is extracted the remaining liquid hydrocarbon will become heavier and heavier. Therefore the boiling point will trend slightly higher and higher.
I've only cleared my Orion reactor just once and I struggled because it is 1.5m deep. All the carbon was on the reactor floor. So the next time I do this task, my plan is to pound the carbon biscuit char to dust and suck it out with a vacuum cleaner.
Please help me, today filled reactor Plastic entirely, because the pieces were not small, and I have added one liter of engine oil waste, and set on fire slowly, after two hours out liters of oil, then start the diesel out a little bit and all of a sudden, came the plastic melted quickly in a scene scary and intense , where a bug, please help me thank you for all
Dedooo, it sounds like you need to work on your reflux.
I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
I just completed a 13.5 hour run making 262 liters of diesel and 3 liters of gasoline. The diesel has a specific gravity of .848
Feedstock was waste mineral oils. First drips were after 1.5 hours. The burner heat was from diesel about half the time or alternatively off-gases the remainder.
The gasjars' water level over flowed a number of times. There was at least 3 boil-over events. The oil feed strainer plugged once. A retort feedstock level device did not work quite as expected giving confusing results. (Details on blog, retort page). Reflux temperatures was up to 370°C. A high powered 12v fan recycled from a car radiator was put to good use as ventilation for the retort area.
So I have to be happy with a record amount made!
There is still much to do to improve though. What is apparent is the feedstock being pumped into the retort quenches the temperature too much so there's a lot of downtime waiting for it to recover. Trying to match feed flow to any kind of constant rate was frustrating. There also appears to be a sweet spot for retort level. When it gets low the drip rate flow reduces while too high invites boil-over. If only we could see inside the retort....!
Blog gets an update by the weekend.
Please help me, today filled reactor Plastic entirely, because the pieces were not small, and I have added one liter of engine oil waste, and set on fire slowly, after two hours out liters of oil, then start the diesel out a little bit and all of a sudden, came the plastic melted quickly in a scene scary and intense , where a bug, please help me thank you for all
Dedoo. I'm struggling to understand, sorry.
I'm wondering if you have over-filled the reactor? Have you experienced boil-over? Are you trying to crack plastic without a thermocouple? Do you have a reflux chamber fitted above the reactor?
The pipe on your reactor top flange looks too small?? If that plugs with plastic, you have potential bomb!
Maximum 3/4 full for the reactor for safety with plastic feedstock.
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