How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

[Excalibur]

this is the link of siphon oil burner working with car waste oil it is not perfect but no smell at all.it this video l was using about 12 psi.l use fridge compresor (photo) and small bottle of air and works relax.my nozzle is 0.6mm l try it with 1mm but use alot of air over 50 psi

Thanks for video and picture. It looks good. Am hoping adapting it to your reactor goes well. I think that if you can get the reactor temperature up to target with ease, then maintaining the temperature will be relatively easy. I liken it to a pot of water on the stove. High power would be used to bring it to boil but once there, a lower setting is selected to keep it simmering.

I fitted a thermocouple to the burner-pipe-to-retort and in testing it was delivering between 500*C and 800*C for most of the time. It gave a very good insight as to how hard the burner was working at any stage so I highly recommend.

[jonathan]

air compresor and siphon oil burner

Siphon Oil burner - YouTube

this is the link of siphon oil burner working with car waste oil it is not perfect but no smell at all.it this video l was using about 12 psi.l use fridge compresor (photo) and small bottle of air and works relax.my nozzle is 0.6mm l try it with 1mm but use alot of air over 50 psi

[Excalibur]

Alarms, Arduino controlled

Currently I'm piecing together Arduino code to run alarms based on temperature. I thought I'd set maximum threshold levels for several TC using the Max31855 breakout boards from Adafruit. Each circuit can have an individual setpoints defined. The hope is I can program layers of alarm, for instance 1st breach threshold flashes a LED, second breach threshold sounds an audible alarm and a final threshold breach shuts down critical functions.

I've mentioned before that the Max31855 does not tolerate grounded TC but I have used ceramic insulators with good results. These were recycled from old heaters and old ceramic cylinder fuses. Otherwise ceramic necklace beads are common, known to work and withstand high temperatures(Test on a red-hot surface).

Later I may include other alarms. Likely candidates are pressure, level, rotational speed, flow, power or oxygen content.

To date I have the code partially written. Is anyone doing anything similar or the same? I see alarms being able to assist an operator in the running of a pyrolysis reactor to the point of being a safety feature. I plan for my code to be available for free to anyone, once I get it running.

[Col]

lubricity

I'm not sure what to use for lube,

Is sulphur available in a form that can be added? Isn't it the de-sulphurisation process that strips diesel of its lubricity?

Col

[jonathan]

burner

the air compresor is ready l am still working on the burner but as soon as posible l will upload photos

[AAS]

Clean as in what? Im running 1oz to a gal of fuel.

CLean as in not making my diesel dirty like 2 stroke oil.

I'm happy with using BHT should I need to as the stability component.

I'm not sure what to use for lube, that is why I asked the question. I only know certain polymers in liquid form are quite popular for lube.

The only commercial product I know of that should work and is available in SA, (attached pdf) is expensive and imported from germany and I'm trying to find a cheaper alternative, BHT as mentioned will be one part, not sure of the other part yet.

Regards

[RidgeReaper]

I do not want to use 2 stroke oil! aim to use a clean product

Regards
AJ

Clean as in what? Im running 1oz to a gal of fuel.

[AAS]

I think the best way to go is to use BHT should you consider using a free radical scavenger (stability)due to the cyclic nature of the benzene ring and delocalisation of the free radical in the ring.

I aim to use a 50% mix of commercial diesel as mentioned so, believe the lube and stability issue should be fine, due to the existing lube+ stability agents in commercial diesel, however could someone tell me what is a cheap chemical that can be used for lube. Probably a polymer( existing lube specifically for diesel is quite expensive.)

Regards

AJ

I do not want to use 2 stroke oil! aim to use a clean product

Regards
AJ

[AAS]

Stability and lube

I think the best way to go is to use BHT should you consider using a free radical scavenger (stability)due to the cyclic nature of the benzene ring and delocalisation of the free radical in the ring.

I aim to use a 50% mix of commercial diesel as mentioned so, believe the lube and stability issue should be fine, due to the existing lube+ stability agents in commercial diesel, however could someone tell me what is a cheap chemical that can be used for lube. Probably a polymer( existing lube specifically for diesel is quite expensive.)

Regards

AJ

[RidgeReaper]

Pretty neat idea. Didnt see any mention of fuel lubricity. Was this tested to see what it was? My injection pump in my truck has a low tolerance for high hfrr numbers(most fuel today is around 500 I believe) I run a 2 stoke mix in with my fuel to keep my ip happy.

[Excalibur]

A specific gravity of 1.05 makes it not a normal hydrocarbon, or petroleum distillate, so you were probably cracking a halogenated hydrocarbon, which means your exhaust will have been very toxic. For safety reasons, if you are going to be cracking unsorted plastic trash, then it is best to float it through a trough, so that you can easily separate the halogenated hydrocarbon from the non-halogenated, then your distillate will be useable.
We make sure 85% of the shredded plastic floats, my probe only goes about 10cm into the lid, this temp regulates the furnace, initially got nice density's of about 0.75, then later got nice diesel of about density of 0.84. As the reactor got hotter the final 200Litres of the product caused the density to increase of the total product. (remember the reactor is 900L and at least a meter in length)
I suspect, I just went to hot, as the liquid gets less in the reactor, the tested vapor temp and actual liquid temp must have differed greatly. Will try and reduce my set temp max of 400 degrees to 300degrees to start and see if the density does not come down.

My probe is also in the top and even shorter. I've often thought it might be more ideal if the probe was in the liquid but it works. It does rely on the vapor for the transmission of heat. Low retort level affects how much heat the sensor reads.
Starting out, the fuel comes light so what you initially got is exactly what I'd expect. Viewing it dripping in the sight glass, it starts out as clear as water. Later it turns amber gold.
Thinking more about 1.05 density, that makes it heavier than even water. Is there any separation or settling in the product?
I suggest start out by eliminating possible causes. Firstly use only known correct plastic or even better, troubleshoot with a run only using WMO.
Good idea to reduce temperature and observe. In the final analysis, optimum temperature is a balance between the 2 extremes of
1/. Boil-over from too high.
2/. Low activity from too low.

Also start recording reflux temps. This will enable tweaking of product SG.

Wishing you good luck from afar. Hope you nail this problem quickly and get on with making some damn diesel!
HTH

thanks excalibur l dont have to much space so l and my friend make an air compresor from fridge compresor and its so silence we are working on siphon nozzle .. l hope it works well

Great. I once experimented with the Babbington burner concept. Also another time an old spraygun I modified to spray fuel directly into a burner chamber.
These ideas worked good for making heat but used lots of air, so volume usage is something to consider. Hey, how about a photo?

[jonathan]

burner

thanks excalibur l dont have to much space so l and my friend make an air compresor from fridge compresor and its so silence we are working on siphon nozzle .. l hope it works well

[AAS]

A specific gravity of 1.05 makes it not a normal hydrocarbon, or petroleum distillate, so you were probably cracking a halogenated hydrocarbon, which means your exhaust will have been very toxic. For safety reasons, if you are going to be cracking unsorted plastic trash, then it is best to float it through a trough, so that you can easily separate the halogenated hydrocarbon from the non-halogenated, then your distillate will be useable.


We make sure 85% of the shredded plastic floats, my probe only goes about 10cm into the lid, this temp regulates the furnace, initially got nice density's of about 0.75, then later got nice diesel of about density of 0.84. As the reactor got hotter the final 200Litres of the product caused the density to increase of the total product. (remember the reactor is 900L and at least a meter in length)

I suspect, I just went to hot, as the liquid gets less in the reactor, the tested vapor temp and actual liquid temp must have differed greatly. Will try and reduce my set temp max of 400 degrees to 300degrees to start and see if the density does not come down.

AJ

[Excalibur]

faraway, jonathan

In early attempts I found the burner particularly troublesome. The main problems were smoke, flame-outs and responsiveness. The recent run was much better. The hope is my struggle and effort helps others.

The burner uses 2 separate fuel systems. The IP with 4 injector nozzles is mainly for heating from cold. I use paper and sticks for initial lighting. The gas vapor from the retort takes over once gas becomes available plus the turk burner temperature is high. The body and pipework can glow red hot which keeps the fuel ignited.
The IP uses thin fuel approx. the weight of kerosene ~ diesel. I use a combination of oil, petrol, kero, diesel etc to make a thin mix that will vaporize instantly its' injected. (I use fuel made in the retort, I buy none.)
The forced draught fan has a butterfly control but most, perhaps all of the last run it was wide open.
Note the turk is double skinned so incoming air is forced to circle between the 2 skins several times before entering the central chamber. It keeps tumbling and tumbling which provides a good air/fuel mixture.

The gas jet is about 6mm. The feed has a ball valve for control of flow. There are several flame traps made from gauze and/or swarf, plus a bubbler.
Exhaust is 3inch. Inlet 3inch though I wonder if I should have made it 4inch and heavier wall thickness. Burner temperature has recorded over 800*C at times.

Two videos of testing before installing. I used a few sheets of newspaper.
Look down the exhaust,,, see the swirling flame!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-o...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-o...it?usp=sharing

Also I updated the blog page covering the burner

1/. No speed control but the IP has a throttle so very good control of fuel.
2/. I tried spark plugs but without success. Maybe I'll revisit the idea sometime.
3/. No internal pics. I regret not photo'ing it though I meant too. By the time I remembered it was already welded.

[faraway]

Hi excalibur . about your turk burner, i'm interested in your idea, i want ask you some Q. Plz..

1-how you could control temp? did u use speed controller for motor?
2-could i make the burner work automatic ignition? using spark plug?
3- could u give us pic for inside turk head ?