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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

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  • megalomax
    replied
    Has anybody used LPG tanks as source of fuel to heat the plastic?

    Leave a comment:


  • jonathan
    replied
    retort problem

    ok thanks l will check everything

    Leave a comment:


  • Excalibur
    replied
    jonathan

    I think you should:

    1/. check there is no blockage
    2/. Remedy the sensor leak
    3/. Fit a thermocouple to reflux
    4/. Ensure bubbler is operational after last condenser
    5/. Waste oil as feedstock while you diagnose

    Start the heat. Look for bubbles @bubbler. Any water in the oil will turn to steam and bubble around 100*C and could be vigorous. Then a period of calm in bubbler before gases come. Aim for 400*C in retort, 300*C in reflux. Bubbles indicate gas flow. Heat in reflux and pipework indicate gas flow.
    Bring heat up slow and steady. Avoid rapid increases in temperature.
    The figures given are approximate so tweak from there.

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  • jonathan
    replied
    retort problem

    thanks excalibur l have digital tempreture controller but l have proplem with sensor it leaks gas l will upload pics so for my pyrolysis system did you think my proplem was from heat? reflux tower was so hot after 1 hour but the top of reflux and pipe that exit to first condensor was normal l leave my hand on it so if you can help me did l want to have pipe from top reflux to first condensor to hot let say 260 degrees celsius? thanks
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Excalibur
    replied
    martijn0001
    BB is probably referring to Anti galling compound, an anti-seize product often used on threads. I'm not able to recommend the types: Loctite nickel antiseize or Copr Kote for the task. On each occasion both have migrated out of the thread causing leakage. Both become "runny" with heat.

    jonathan
    Thanks for the photo. You've put in a lot of work!
    Insulation would greatly improve the efficiency.
    Temperature monitoring is the key. The retort really needs a thermocouple. At a pinch, for the reflux you could use an old oven gauge from a coal range which are simple bimetallic. Other places where temps are much lower, cheap digital gauges are useful.

    Leave a comment:


  • martijn0001
    replied
    Originally posted by Beyond Biodiesel View Post
    Anti-gal compound on a tapered thread fitting has been known to work up to 1200F (650c). Sodium Silicate is good to about 1200F (650c) also. Otherwise, I agree with Excalibur flanged fittings with graphite composite seals, or metal-to-metal seals, are best. Brass fittings will work up to about 700F (370c), above that steel or stainless steel is best.
    I am Dutch, google didn't help; what's anti gal compound??
    For my "door" to the reator i have a 6" flange with a stainless steel/graphite seal that should be good to 500°C.

    Leave a comment:


  • jonathan
    replied
    pyrolysis photos

    my pyrolysis photos
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Beyond Biodiesel
    replied
    Originally posted by martijn0001 View Post
    hi all,

    1st, thanks everybody for sharing this kwowledge; it's inspiring!!
    i have been preparing and reading for a while, read the 1st 6 pages of the forum from a to z and randomly a lot as well; cant find what to use to seal the threads; teflon tape loctite 5770?? thanks

    got my bubbler, 1st condenser and coolpipe ready, i attached a pic
    Teflon tape is really the best seal, other than a compression fitting, up to about 500F (260c). Anti-gal compound on a tapered thread fitting has been known to work up to 1200F (650c). Sodium Silicate is good to about 1200F (650c) also. Otherwise, I agree with Excalibur flanged fittings with graphite composite seals, or metal-to-metal seals, are best. Brass fittings will work up to about 700F (370c), above that steel or stainless steel is best.

    Leave a comment:


  • Excalibur
    replied
    Welcome martijn0001

    Threads, like pipe threads at the retort and reflux area don't seal with Teflon tape or Loctite 5 series. There's too much heat for those. They deteriorate quickly and leak gas and condensate. This poses fire risk plus strong, objectionable smell.
    I don't use pipe threaded fittings in the 200*C+ hot areas now in favor of flanges with taper seal or solid copper gasket. Also welded-on mac unions work OK.
    I looked for the thread seal ideas from members posts and there's been a number of posts especially in recent times. I couldn't find any but memory says some kind of furnace cement and sodium silicate aka water glass are known to hold up ok.

    Leave a comment:


  • martijn0001
    replied
    thread seal

    hi all,

    1st, thanks everybody for sharing this kwowledge; it's inspiring!!
    i have been preparing and reading for a while, read the 1st 6 pages of the forum from a to z and randomly a lot as well; cant find what to use to seal the threads; teflon tape loctite 5770?? thanks

    got my bubbler, 1st condenser and coolpipe ready, i attached a pic
    Attached Files
    Last edited by martijn0001; 10-27-2013, 07:24 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jonathan
    replied
    retort problem

    thanks so much excalibur my vapor from retort to condensor is downstream l notice that bubbler was not bubbling and when l open my condensor tap l hear some air presure and no smoke come out so l dont think it my retort was blocked l will upload photos maybe my pipe from reflux to condensor doesnt be hot enough maybe 120 degrees c l am very sad

    Leave a comment:


  • Excalibur
    replied
    Originally posted by jonathan View Post
    l try my pyrolysis yesterday l have retort,empty reflux,and 2 condensors l fire my oil burner it was too hot that after 15 minutes first condensor was very hot and the other condensor was hot too that you dont keep your hand.after that 15 minutes l have problem in burner and stop it. after my system cools l find about 200 ml oil it burn easily and smell like resin.today l try my system with gas burner but after 1 and half hour l dont find any oil l notice that my retort was so hot and reflux but the pipe from reflux to first condensor was little hot that l leave my hands on it. l dont know whats going on?
    Normal to expect would be the vapor stream would travel downstream, heating pipework and condensers as it flowed. If there is little heat then it's likely there is no/little vapor flow. There could be a variety of reasons i.e. blockage, low retort temperature, a retort that has become too empty, too much refluxing, etc. Critical is that the operator needs to be completely aware of what's happening at all times. Because the operator can't see inside the retort ,the use of thermocouples/probes, sight glasses, bubbler, etc helps with monitoring and understanding behavior. Take your time, carefully observe results. Pics of your set up would be helpful.
    Originally posted by rozier56 View Post
    Thank you yo Beyond and Excalibur for those helpful ideas.It all makes good sense and i will be trying all your suggestions.You are right about the time factor as i have been trying to improve this area by changing my burners to suit my retort and have drastically reduced the time to get up to temp. But this makes down the line temp control a bit more difficult, but am getting there, as the condenser temp control is a bit tempermental,
    What may be of help is what I'm trialing on my new retort build. I'm aiming to control the temperature of the diesel vessel. At the vapor stream entry to my diesel vessel is a water cooled heat exchanger/condenser. There is a button thermostat on the reservoir which operates the water solenoid via a relay. It works like this: If the diesel vessel is below target the solenoid remains closed so no water flowing. Once the temperature reaches target, the solenoid opens to allow cooling of the vapor stream/condensate that enters the vessel. I hope this helps. I'll be updating this page of my blog shortly

    Leave a comment:


  • rozier56
    replied
    mtrozier56

    Thank you yo Beyond and Excalibur for those helpful ideas.It all makes good sense and i will be trying all your suggestions.You are right about the time factor as i have been trying to improve this area by changing my burners to suit my retort and have drastically reduced the time to get up to temp. But this makes down the line temp control a bit more difficult, but am getting there, as the condenser temp control is a bit tempermental,

    Leave a comment:


  • jonathan
    replied
    retort problem

    l try my pyrolysis yesterday l have retort,empty reflux,and 2 condensors l fire my oil burner it was too hot that after 15 minutes first condensor was very hot and the other condensor was hot too that you dont keep your hand.after that 15 minutes l have problem in burner and stop it. after my system cools l find about 200 ml oil it burn easily and smell like resin.today l try my system with gas burner but after 1 and half hour l dont find any oil l notice that my retort was so hot and reflux but the pipe from reflux to first condensor was little hot that l leave my hands on it. l dont know whats going on?

    Leave a comment:


  • Beyond Biodiesel
    replied
    Originally posted by rozier56 View Post
    Thks Beyound,do you suggest that my reflux column is to efficient or should be shorter to allow easier flow through to the condenser stage.As it was my belief that diesel is made before petrol/gasoline.
    I see no reason to try to drive off the light fractions, because most diesel engines will run just fine with them in the fuel blend, as long as they are not the dominant fraction. So, I am in favor of having as much condenser surface area as one can make reasonably, and collect it all. After all, hydrocarbons are fuel, so why not burn them?

    However, you could build several condenser traps that operate at successively cooler temperatures starting at 300c and working down in 100c stages to 0c. That way you trap the fractions in separate traps. This is what I have in my WMO distillation unit.

    Leave a comment:

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