Thanks, ndsunil, for posting your report of a successful run in your pilot plant with various plastics. I agree with jonathan, larger photos would be more useful to see how your pilot plant works.
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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply
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I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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Pilot plant
Originally posted by Beyond Biodiesel View PostThanks, ndsunil, for posting your report of a successful run in your pilot plant with various plastics. I agree with jonathan, larger photos would be more useful to see how your pilot plant works.
DSCN0096.JPG
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Thanks, ndsunil, for posting better photos. I like the flanged design of your retort, and the modular construction afforded by those flanges.
However, the condenser looks like it might be too close to your reflux, as steel pipe, even though flanged, has a fairly high coefficient of thermal conductivity that there is probably a considerable loss of energy to the reflux from the water condenser, and the water condenser is probably not as efficient as it could be due to heat gain from your reflux. So, if you think it is a problem, then adding a 1 foot (300mm) extension to your vapor pipe between your reflux and your condenser would probably make the system more efficient.I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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Originally posted by Herb K View PostWondering ---aside from the corrosion, which could be taken care of with 303 stainless steel piping and reactor, is there any way to capture the chlorine released when processing PVC? Any non-industrial use for it? Any way to safely (not necessarily EPA approved!) dispose of it?
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Originally posted by mgalyean View PostI realize this thread is really old but I'm going to reply anyway.
Originally posted by mgalyean View PostStainless steel's main achilles heel is chlorine or chloride. So while it is great for most corrosion resistance applications, not for PVC cracking. Which isn't to say there isn't some kind of surface treatment that would allow its use without corrosion, but that is beyond my knowledge.
To answer Herb K's questions, the hydrogen chloride that is commonly liberated from cracking chlorinated hydrocarbons, like PVC, is highly hydrophilic, so it readily goes into solution with water in the bubbler.
In answer to his second question, chlorine is such a common element that there is probably no commercial value to it other than using the hydrochloric acid that will be produced. Perhaps it could be used in another part of the process of cracking and/or purifying the cracked fractions.
Nonetheless, cracking PVC results in producing other chlorinated hydrocarbons, such as TCE. TCE is a lousy solvent, and very toxic to anyone who uses it; and it is a worse fuel. So, the only people who should be recycling PVC are the unethical people who make it.
And, even worse, upstream of the condensers will be left behind substances that are known in scientific literature as "super toxins" from cracking any halogenated hydrocarbon. So, anyone who cracks any halogenated hydrocarbons is likely to be exposed to some of the most toxic substances known, such as dioxins.I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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Originally posted by Col View PostIs sulphur available in a form that can be added? Isn't it the de-sulphurisation process that strips diesel of its lubricity?
Col
Ideally since PP and PE gives vertually no sulphur one wants to be environmentally friendly.
Any suggestions anyone?
Regards
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Originally posted by Col View PostIs sulphur available in a form that can be added? Isn't it the de-sulphurisation process that strips diesel of its lubricity?
Col
Regards
AJ
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lubrication
Hi Guys
Still looking for a cheap lubrication additive, got the stabilization side hammered down.
Definitely merit in 2-stroke oil, however looking for a yellow to clear substance that will lubricate.
What is used in conventional diesel, does anyone know?
Regards
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There are a lot of additives that diesel owners add to their fuel to lubricate it; however, I have been blending gasoline with waste oils to make diesel fuel for my diesel engine for 7 years. Therefore, you could just divert some of the heavier fraction from your pyrolysis unit into lubricating your fuel.
Also, lubricity is a function of viscosity, so you could just keep your fuel on the heavy side to gain lubricity.I have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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Actually purchasing the parts ..
Hi Jetijs, I'm in the process of buying the parts to create this fantastic plastic/diesel converter. Just a question about the aluminium oxide bricks - can they be simply firebricks cut into the correct shape ? What are the dimensions (how thick is necessary)? Also where did you buy your metal cage from ? What type of metal is it made out of ? And lastly, the heating coils - what voltage are they supposed to be, is the type of metal important, and what lengths are we talking ? I'm buying a 200 L steel drum. Thanks in advance,
Georgia
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Originally posted by Babataku View PostHi AAS,
What are you using to Stabilize your fuel?
regards
Butylated hydroxytoluene, also known as butylhydroxytoluene, is a lipophilic organic compound, chemically a derivative of phenol, that is useful for its antioxidant properties.
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Originally posted by Babataku View PostHi AAS,
What are you using to Stabilize your fuel?
regards
BHT Butylated hydroxytoluene
Butylated hydroxytoluene, also known as butylhydroxytoluene, is a lipophilic organic compound, chemically a derivative of phenol, that is useful for its antioxidant properties.
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Antioxidant BHT
Originally posted by AAS View PostBHT Butylated hydroxytoluene
Butylated hydroxytoluene, also known as butylhydroxytoluene, is a lipophilic organic compound, chemically a derivative of phenol, that is useful for its antioxidant properties.
Where are you buying from in South Africa? which company and do they accept purchases in small qty?
regards
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