Thank Excalibur, and wait for what is new for you
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How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply
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Originally posted by dedooo View PostThank Excalibur, and wait for what is new for you
With regard to yours, if any of the things I asked about are lacking, I suggest standing back and having a really good think about your set up. There's much that can go wrong for the unwary.
Please tell us what the insulation is around your reactor? It looks really interesting.
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modifica del mio storta
tra pochi giorni l' accensioneLast edited by piccolo chimico; 04-23-2014, 10:55 PM.
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Very tidy work piccolo chimico,
Wishing you good luck and am hoping it runs as good as it looks.
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Originally posted by piccolo chimico View Posttra pochi giorni l' accensioneOriginally posted by piccolo chimico View Postda quello che ho visto in foto dedooo utilizza come isolamento del reattore solo un barile molto sottile e quindi dispersivo.ci credo poco che riesca a portarlo a 400 gradi. dedooo hai usato plastica a pellet oppure di grandi dimensioni?Originally posted by piccolo chimico View Postecco l' immagineOriginally posted by English translationIn a few days the 'ignition. from what I've seen in pictures dedooo used as insulation of the reactor only a very thin barrel and then dispersivo.ci not think she can take it to 400 degrees. dedooo you used plastic pellet or large? here 's pictureI have been running various blends of waste oils and unleaded gasoline in a 1983 Chevy G-20 van with a 6.2L diesel V-8 engine, with a Stanadyne Rotary DB2 IP since Feb, 2007. I have started the engine with no difficulty and no block heater on an 80/20 (WVO/gas) blend down to 0F (-18c). I have found that by blending as little as 15% gasoline in the summer, and as much as 50% in the winter, my engine starts and runs as if it was running on diesel fuel.
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Hi Excalibur,can you tell me how long it takes with your turk burner to reach a temp 330-350*c.I also seem to have a period in my system when the temps stabilize{128*c} and even drop down10-15*c before increasing again.Does anybody else have this problem.Also this last run of yours was it all done around 350*C.
DEREK.
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Originally posted by Beyond Biodiesel View PostNice proper flanges on your pyrolysis unit. Are you going to insulated the upper section? The upper section looks like it is more than reflux, but also fractionation? I look forward to hearing about your results.
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Originally posted by rozier56 View PostHi Excalibur,can you tell me how long it takes with your turk burner to reach a temp 330-350*c.I also seem to have a period in my system when the temps stabilize{128*c} and even drop down10-15*c before increasing again.Does anybody else have this problem.Also this last run of yours was it all done around 350*C.
DEREK.
The temperature problem you mention at 128°C is most likely to do with the feedstock having a water content. This turns to steam but condenses on cool parts of the reflux. It then runs back to the feedstock where it gets evaporated again. The cycle doesn't stop until the water vapor is able to exit the reflux chamber. So this is what the strange gyrating of temperatures is at around the 100°C+ or so.
Be aware and be warned. If you are continuously feeding feedstock into the retort/reactor that is at full 400°C, any water content will immediately flash boil creating steam. This steam could literally explode, possibly blowing the system apart!!
The last run had really good flow at temperatures between 350°C and 400°C. Much of the time the temperature was below that because fresh wmo feedstock was lowering temperatures and I was having to wait for it to recover.
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Originally posted by dedooo View PostHello Excalibur, please tell me how much diesel consumed in the process of extracting diesel from waste oil in percentage terms, and why you do not work on the waste plastics? Do you have no plastic waste? Thank you
I prefer wmo because it uses less energy to convert, can be easily pumped, doesn't plug pipework, doesn't require chipping and I have plenty available for free. I have stocks of chipped/shredded plastic too and I've cracked it a few times. Once the wmo supply dries up, then I'll do a lot more of the plastic. Also, every time my reactor is apart, I plan to fill with plastic and continuous feed wmo after that.
Thanks for the information on your insulation, details would very helpful for those struggling to afford expensive refractory.
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Tks Excalibur, your explanation makes total sense.I should have known this as a retired chemist,"old age" i suppose!
I am not doing continous feed supply,will try to see if i can come up with a condensate relief valve on top of retort to try and release water steam output.
Your turk heating matches my lpg gas heater almost perfectly in temp gains, although yours will be cheaper to run.I am going to try and heat with a diesel burner next week,with the idea of getting the heat temps up quicker to avoid the start up delay time.
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