Joule Ringer!

[Nick_Z]

he mentioned in the video that the 3.0 circuit can run from 1 volt to 13v, but that he has had it up to 70volts. his small battery pack is 12 or 13 volts, and the current draw depends on the bulb, but he lit a regular 60 watt bulb pretty nice from the 13v battery, he didn't mention current draw. hopefully much more economical to run than on a regular inverter, to light up 110v bulbs. he'll possibly get into the efficiency of the circuit in the next video.

i think that this last circuit is very useable stuff, for solar panel use especially, to charge 12v batteries, and drive this inverter circuit.

i'm going to wind a 3 inch long coil version, on a ferrite rod that i already have, to see what happens. i already have a 1inch and 2 inch long coils with ferrite rod in them as a comparison. which can light cfls with on exciter type circuits. and his one transistor circuit is not much different than an exciter circuit with a wired output to the bulbs. i'm sure it would work wireless, like a slayer type exciter circuit, also.
all in all. this is very good news... 3.0 is cheap to build, except for the ferrite rod, 27 bucks, but it does not ring much, so fairly quite, runs any bulbs, and can be scaled up, or down.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, here is the ferrite core this setup will use, it is super glued together ferrite tubes, 3/4" diameter, around 3/8" inner diameter, total length, 1/16" short of 8".
Is what was on hand, maybe it will work ok.
Going to use 18 awg. magnet wire and 30 awg.


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peace love light
tyson

[gyula]

Hi Tyson,

You have a good chance to have a similarly working setup with this ferrite "rod" assembly than that of Lasersaber, this is a good and economical substitution I think.
Conrad at the ou forum replicated this v3 with a ferrite E core transformer and now he has obtained a ferrite rod at ebay, see his results with the E core here:
Joule Ringer!

rgds, Gyula

[Zardox]

This has to be real low amp draw because he doesn't use any heat sink even when running the incandecent bulb.

[SkyWatcher]

Joule Ringer 3.0 version

Hi folks, Hi gyula, thanks for the encouraging words, hope this works similar to lasersabers 3.0 version.
The ratios of wire gauges are similar, so we will see how it goes.
Have to temporarily use a 2n3055 from the SSG mountain bike wheel project, to test this setup, need more 2n3055 transistors.
peace love light
tyson

[Nick_Z]

SkyWatcher:
I've also got some of those ferrite beads. They come on the ends of VGA power cables, as filters, I believe, as well as in some CRT monitors.
What we need to find is the highest perm available on the ferrite rods.
E-cores are still much cheaper than the 27 dollar rod, although there is a lot more volume in a ferrite rod of that size, as well as higher output and gain.
Let us know how it goes with the ferrite beads.

Nick_Z

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi nick, i tried lighting up a 15 and 13 watt cfl and they did not light with the ferrite bead core coil, maybe too high base coil resistance with the 30 gauge wire or core permeability.
Then i tried the transformer i was using for the 2.0 version and it lighted the 13 watt cfl with 3.0 version at around the same amperage at 12 volts as the 2.0 version did.
Unfortunately i fried the 2n3055 when trying to light a 25 watt incandescent, probably too low a resistance for the base coil wire using the standard laminate transformer.
Back to testing with the SSG wheel, when i get more spare 2n3055's, i will try testing without blowing them up, hehe.
peace love light
tyson

[Nick_Z]

SkyWatcher:
Thanks for the update on the ferrite beads, it saves me some effort. I tried several of them placed inside of my Exciter coil, but they did not help, either. They probably don't have the higher permeability needed.
Old style transistor radios have the three inch ferrite rods in them, they do work, at least on my Exciter circuits. I've also tried the TIP31, which are sold at the Shack as MJE 3055T, they would not light Cfls, on the Slayer exciter circuit but did work when wired like LS has the 2n3055, which is similar to the normal Jt circuit. I can't find the 2n3055, here yet. May have to order them.

[totoalas]

Hi to all,
For the SJR 3.0
The crt toroid will not lit up my led lamps ..... tried to tap the supply and it will only blink......

totoalas

[Allen Burgess]

Lasersaber's Joule Ringer 3.

JLN's 2Sgen "6" demonstrates a Lambda of 13.7. This is the ratio of demagnatization power to magnatization power. Lasersaber's Super JR "3" is an overunity generator of the same kind. A standard transformer uses steel laminations to regulate this unwanted side effect of voltage increase. The solid ferrite core and the single wrap 14 & 28 gauge primary and secondary makes Lasersaber's Super JR 3 identical to one side of a "COOK BATTERY" not a transformer. JLN'S formula can help determine the "Lambda". I believe this version has a good chance to loop back to source and self sustain due to it's very low control power requirement. The power source needs to be a rechargable Ni-Cad battery. The top wire of the secondary and the wire from the transistor collector that attach to the light bulb in the schematic need to go to a capacitor and fast switching diode in series. The battery would then attach to the positive and negative poles of the capacitor. The capacitor voltage has to be two or three volts over the battery voltage for it to work. When the battery voltage begins to climb, one needs to attach a load to avoid an explosion. A bank of LEDS would work fine. Again Lasersaber's hyperlink:

Super Joule Ringer 3.0 real world power made easy! - YouTube

[Dave45]

Transistor Driven High Voltage Flyback Transformer Page.
I mainly posted the link because he gives a list of transistors that worked with his circuit, they may work here as well.

[gyula]

Hi folks, Hi nick, i tried lighting up a 15 and 13 watt cfl and they did not light with the ferrite bead core coil, maybe too high base coil resistance with the 30 gauge wire or core permeability.
...

Hi Tyson,

There is one thing you may wish to insure for the v3 circuit: I think a DC path should be provided across a CFL lamp because it is surely a high impedance at the start and this way the transistor's base current may initially be rather low for insuring a prompt start. To pump a sufficient current into the base, you simply connect a 10 to 22 kiloOhm in parallel with the CFL lamp and test the same v3 circuit with the ferrite bead 'rod'.
This ferrite rod substitution should work like your transformer, the difference being the much less self inductance, hence inductive impedance of the coils on the 'rod', this fact demands higher gain from the transistor to start promptly, a 2N3055 does not have enough gain (Beta) for this job. (Higher gain may be had with a Darlington transistor at the place of the 2N3055 too, you may wish to piggy-back a transistor to form a Darlington with the 2N3055 when you obtain some 2N3055s.)
Of course the parallel potmeter with the CFL may reduce brightness a little (it takes some power away from the lamp), so experimentation is needed for a trade off, if the pot value could remain in the several kOhm range the dissipation is minimal.

Of course you may test some incandescent lamps of some low power ratings, they do insure a correct base current path for the transistor.

rgds, Gyula

[gyula]

Hi br0ns0n77,

I cannot see your light bulb in any of your pictures, maybe your camera viewing angle did not include it? The base coil end is connected to the black probe tip and that is the place where a series light bulb should be inserted and continue to the transistor's collector, right?
One more thing: the winding sense of the two coils is important to get oscillation, you surely know this. And it has a reason Lasesaber used the turns ratio he gave, you may wish first to observe it, then modify it when it works for you (if you used different turns that is).

Gyula

PS here is a similar setup but I do not want to tease you of course LOL (use the magnet later when you already have light)
Ferrite core - YouTube

Hey guys - I'm a newbie and just needed a little help with the Joule Ringer schematic that Lasersaber posted this week. I didn't have a ferrite rode, but did have a toroid. I had some magnet wire which I put down as a primary winding and 14 gauge over the top like he mentioned in his schematic. I bought the same transistor as well. I have everything hooked up the correct way, but I'm only getting an output voltage of what I put into the circuit. I'm not certain if the windings and ratio of the windings has to be that specific to get at least something out of the circuit or not? I was hoping all the time I spent winding the primary that I could make this work with what I have. Below are some images of the circuit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.jaymeblackmon.com/circuit/one.jpg
http://www.jaymeblackmon.com/circuit/two.jpg
http://www.jaymeblackmon.com/circuit/three.jpg

Apparently the setup is very finicky and has to be exactly what he uses?

[jonnydavro]

Buzzer triggered Jouleringer variant

Hi.I while back I used a small 5v buzzer to trigger an inverter circuit and I have added it to a jouleringer variant after modifying the buzzer so it does not emit any sound so it is basically acting as a pulse driving circuit for the base and it works really well with increased efficiency and output.
Here is a vid of the experiment.
Buzzer triggered Jouleringer variant - YouTube
@br0ns0n77 Hi.Looking at your pics,I think you have your coils backwards.First remove your meter replace it in series as an amp meter.
The thick red wire is your primary so connect one end to your battery positive and the other end to your transistor collector.
Connect one end of the thin magnet wire which should have a lot more turns than the red primary to the base of the transistor and connect the other end of the thin wire to one leg of a neon bulb and connect the other leg of the neon to the battery + or -
Add an led with the cathode(flat side) connected to the base and the anode connected to emitter.
Add a 20k variable resistor from batt + to base incase your circuit will not self start and to allow adjustment.
Increase your battery voltage to 3v.
If the led does not light.Reverse the connections of the red primary coil.
Once you get a runner then you can experiment with it and this will allow you to build a close replication of lasersabers sjr3
.Hope this helps.Jonny.

[PhysicsProf]

I've replicated Lasersaber's 3.0, based on an operating 2.0 version that I had previously. (See vid from June 2012, https://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&f...&v=ZaNt74D4Ee8 )
Then, I simply took the output wire that was connected to the emitter on the 2N3055 (2.0 version) and moved it to the collector. (Other than the coil, that's the major change between 2.0 and 3.0 as I see it.)
It worked great! Thanks, LS.

I then ran with 6 LED bulbs in my light-box, as I had done with the 2.0. I found that the light output was about the same for the two versions (109 Lm/W for the 3.0 versus 112 Lm/W for the older 2.0 -- at 12.8V input).

Next, I hooked up the output to my "Davey-bell" system and observed a LOT of electrolysis; but no xs heat. (I've pointed out elsewhere how I see many similarities between so-called "cold-fusion" experiments which I've done for many years and the Davey invention patented in 1944 by Peter Davey. Both have electrodes and electrolysis; both claim "excess (xs) heat" under certain circumstances. )

I made a quick vid of this effort today:
sJR3plusDavey - YouTube